Best chain for 1/4" difference in chainline??
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Best chain for 1/4" difference in chainline??
Have a kids bike that already had 4 to 5 mm difference in chainline. Adding a 13t sprocket to the rear, which won't be "offset" [ in the proper, original direction]... so the chainline will now be 6 to 7 mm from being perfectly straight.
Both sprockets are 1/8" width, but I'm willing to use a grinder on both of them if a 3/32" chain would be best.
To pre-emptively answer some questions...
No, I can't move the front sprocket any farther inward. And I'm fairly certain that I can't move the rear sprocket any farther outward without going back to the original 18t, which I really don't want.
Would a single speed 3/32" chain be better than a multi-speed 3/32" chain? Or should I just stick with the 1/8" chain until i wear it to shreds?
Both sprockets are 1/8" width, but I'm willing to use a grinder on both of them if a 3/32" chain would be best.
To pre-emptively answer some questions...
No, I can't move the front sprocket any farther inward. And I'm fairly certain that I can't move the rear sprocket any farther outward without going back to the original 18t, which I really don't want.
Would a single speed 3/32" chain be better than a multi-speed 3/32" chain? Or should I just stick with the 1/8" chain until i wear it to shreds?
#2
Lapped 3x
Why aren't there any options available other than the ones you mention?
To answer your question about 3/32" chains, a multi-speed chain will be more flexible as it has to handle offset chainlines. The grinder idea is all sorts of wrong in my opinion.
To answer your question about 3/32" chains, a multi-speed chain will be more flexible as it has to handle offset chainlines. The grinder idea is all sorts of wrong in my opinion.
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Taras, I already explained why there's nothing I can do. The front chairing cannot be moved any father inward. The frame doesn't permit anything larger or father in, which is where the rear cog is -- inward. It's a kid's bike. Just the way it is.
As for the rear cog, going from 18t to 13t is moving the challenge father inward. I don't know any way to adjust that besides cutting the spindle nuts in half or something.
I'm trying to find out if sickz' stance remains the same -- 1/8" chain on 3/32" sprockets is better than multi-speed 3/32" chain for 1/4" or more of play.... His suggestion only accounts for about 1/16" off an inch (just over 1.5 mm), considering the bike originally came with 1/8" chain. Would'nt a multi-speed chain suit me better?
As for the rear cog, going from 18t to 13t is moving the challenge father inward. I don't know any way to adjust that besides cutting the spindle nuts in half or something.
I'm trying to find out if sickz' stance remains the same -- 1/8" chain on 3/32" sprockets is better than multi-speed 3/32" chain for 1/4" or more of play.... His suggestion only accounts for about 1/16" off an inch (just over 1.5 mm), considering the bike originally came with 1/8" chain. Would'nt a multi-speed chain suit me better?
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Taras, I already explained why there's nothing I can do. The front chairing cannot be moved any father inward. The frame doesn't permit anything larger or father in, which is where the rear cog is -- inward. It's a kid's bike. Just the way it is.
As for the rear cog, going from 18t to 13t is moving the challenge father inward. I don't know any way to adjust that besides cutting the spindle nuts in half or something.
I'm trying to find out if sickz' stance remains the same -- 1/8" chain on 3/32" sprockets is better than multi-speed 3/32" chain for 1/4" or more of play.... His suggestion only accounts for about 1/16" off an inch (just over 1.5 mm), considering the bike originally came with 1/8" chain. Would'nt a multi-speed chain suit me better?
As for the rear cog, going from 18t to 13t is moving the challenge father inward. I don't know any way to adjust that besides cutting the spindle nuts in half or something.
I'm trying to find out if sickz' stance remains the same -- 1/8" chain on 3/32" sprockets is better than multi-speed 3/32" chain for 1/4" or more of play.... His suggestion only accounts for about 1/16" off an inch (just over 1.5 mm), considering the bike originally came with 1/8" chain. Would'nt a multi-speed chain suit me better?
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Why is the cog not in line with the chainring then? Did you do something to the wheel?
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Calamari Marionette Ph.D
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I'm sorry but It makes no sense to me for anyone to recommend the tiny difference in putting a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" ring to try helping a way-off chainline. 1/8 chains are meant to be stiff & straight while 3/32 or 7-8-9-speed chains are built to be flexible & solve the very problem OP describes. Hell - are none of you here aware of the wide chainline swings you get with 2-3 front rings & a multi-gear freewheel/cassette? A helluva lot more than 1/4".
Get yourself a 3/32" (or multispeed) ring, cog, & (or 9-speed) chain - problem solved...
Get yourself a 3/32" (or multispeed) ring, cog, & (or 9-speed) chain - problem solved...
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The original hub was garbage, so I did replace it with a KC hub/wheel... And there's no way I'm about to dish it.
And as far as I could tell, the 13t cogs w/ 3 splines only come in 1/8" width, plus there's a one piece crank with 1/8" chairing that I have no desire to replace... hence, why I said I'll just grind them down.
I think the multi-speed chain is really all I need. Thank you, Sam!
And as far as I could tell, the 13t cogs w/ 3 splines only come in 1/8" width, plus there's a one piece crank with 1/8" chairing that I have no desire to replace... hence, why I said I'll just grind them down.
I think the multi-speed chain is really all I need. Thank you, Sam!
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