67tony 

If I wanted to take these brakes apart further, to clean them, how would I do that?
(Not the adjustment cam, but the calipers.)

It may not be necessary, as they are very clean now, but they have me a bit curious.
Plus...I like taking things apart!

Bianchigirll 

Some one will shortly tell me I am wrong but, I believe you need a 12pt wrench (13MM maybe?) to hold that nut behind the spring and then unscrew the allen center bolt. There is no set screw right?

67tony 

Correct...no set screw.

I tried what you suggested, sans the correct socket of course.
Using the spring as my leverage, I gently tried the allen and it was a no go.

Looks like I'll be busting out the channelocks, wrapping the jaws with leather!

Bianchigirll 

There is likely a lot of locktite in there, although the IPB shows them apart I am not sure these were intended to be taken apart by the consumer.

Glennfordx4

I have taken them apart to service & clean them here at my computer desk, I have a small clamp on vice and I put a 5mm allen wrench in it and use a rag & pliers to remove the 12 point looking nut from the rear off. There is thread locker on the nut so it can be tight.

Glenn

dddd

The "Easy Centering Mechanism" consists of
A) the Allen-headed bolt replacing the traditional nut and stud, and
B) A solid attachment of the centerbolt to the spring carrier, such that torque on the centerbolt turns the tightly-mounted (to the fork crown) spring carrier as the centerbolt turns.

There is also some kind of plastic insert where the grip washer surface interfaces with the fork crown, for easier turning.

The threading into the spring carrier appears to be oversized relative to the nutted end, so possibly also reverse-threaded.

Force (torque) is required to separate centerbolt from the spring carrier, with adjustment re-set with a relatively high-strength threadlocker.

Possibly also the "12-point" wrench interface is a bit more than twelve points(?), if so suggestive of "field service discouraged".

And, since there is no axial force on the threading when and if one simply adjusts these in-hand, the freeplay of the threaded interface may bias the adjustment later, when the mounting bolt is tensioned upon installation, as the threadlocker would possibly yield over time. So I suggest one should modestly tension the mounting nut against a fork-crown-simulating sleeve over the centerbolt, in order that tension be applied by the mounting nut as the final adjustment is made and as the threadlocker sets, so that the adjustment doesn't later change as the mounting nut is tensioned.
I am always leery of any threaded interface that relies on a load path that contains a "polymer layer". Such compression assembly is often found to lose tension over time, resulting in loosening or in this case a possible slight change in adjustment of the caliper pivot with resultant binding.
Similarly, compressed assemblies that tend to trap and compress dirt between mating parts often lose tension, as commonly happens with rear derailer pulley bolts in particular, but also with bottom bracket adjustable cups that are tensioned by a lockring that gets tightened onto the cup with the cup not also turning so as to displace grit from the load path of the cup-to-shell threaded interface. Thus I always achieve final cup adjustments with the cup and lockring rotating into final tightness as one, since the contact stress is much lower in the shell's threads than in the lockring's threads, with trapped grit acting as an unreliable load path layer.

triathloner

10 parts real hot water and 1 part dawn dish soap, soak for half an hour hit them with a tooth brush and you should be pretty clean inside and out. I've taken them apart but once the loctite is off it can give you problems, and it's tough to get loctite on them in just the right spots if you use it on re-assembly. My two cents.

noglider 

Ooh, them are nice! (Quoting my friends from Kentucky)

67tony 

This is the way I'm leaning.

Although I appreciate the technical brilliance of dddd's dissertation regarding the intricacies of these brakes, it was a bit over my head. I'm going to leave well enough alone!

RobbieTunes

I've taken them apart before, and put them back together. Watch out for small thin plastic parts that want to escape.

I took pictures of each stage, so I'd remember how they went back, but I used no special tools.
The #5 hex key worked with a wrapped channel-lock pliers on the main bolt, and once "broken," that backing nut spun right off.

They are beautiful once cleaned, as are the rest of that group. The brown anodizing is very nice, and if you can get the chainrings, even nicer.

67tony 

They are, indeed, a very attractive brake.
As others have noted, they have really strong springs.

Although yet to be cleaned, I do have the chainrings.

(Robbie, I really like the color of your pictured Dave Scott...)