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Paint removal from chrome safely

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Old 01-22-21, 05:37 PM
  #26  
martl
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
Ditto!
Read it again carefully, and the main thought should be, "you'll want it blasted to remove every trace of paint anyway, so continuing to strip the paint off with chemicals is likely wasting time."
paint stripper, even the consumer grade stuff, is no fun either, don't get me wrong. Etched the fingerprints of my fingers last week because I forgot to wear gloves (thug life hack). Most bikes with paint on chrome I had my hands on, the paint could be scraped off the chromed bits without chemicals at all... In fact, getting the new paint to stick to it, that is the hard part.
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Old 01-22-21, 07:39 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by tiger1964
I know; should have added a "wink". Hmm, what is "PT"?



On a different part, I had already contacted the chrome shop I use and do have blasting facilities - but I did not ask what media.



Doh! And I have a good selection of wood shim stock, a little trimming on the end would have worked.



If my results were like that, I'd be pleased. That said,

(a) 1st attempt with the aircraft paint stripper wasn't that much better than the wood stripper... OK, somewhat better. But I see 2-3 more coats to get everything out of the corners, like where the fork blades enter the crown. It's 55F in the unheated basement, and maybe it would work better if I brought the project into the heated part of the house. I recall stripping the car, the stuff did not work for beans in the cold of a neighbor's unheated garage; a few warm days and the paint all came off.

(b) I have enough off the blades now that I can see the underlying chrome. Dull. I tried the electric buffer and it did not brighten up. So, a lot of work to get to bare metal -- and it is still going to the chrome shop. Sigh.
Hello Tiger,
Your issue is temperature. I have used paint stripper extensively on both wood and metals and can tell you below 70F the effectiveness in removing paint drops precipitously! Find another place to work or wait for warmer weather otherwise you’re wasting your time and unnecessarily exposing yourself to these harsh chemicals!
Steve
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Old 01-22-21, 09:23 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by martl
paint stripper, even the consumer grade stuff, is no fun either, don't get me wrong. Etched the fingerprints of my fingers last week because I forgot to wear gloves (thug life hack). Most bikes with paint on chrome I had my hands on, the paint could be scraped off the chromed bits without chemicals at all... In fact, getting the new paint to stick to it, that is the hard part.
time to crack some vaults. Increased sensitivity..

note- Saran Wrap after applying stripper will extend the working time as the volatiles won’t evaporate as fast- providing more time to work.

be sure to wear the right type of gloves, latex don’t cut it. Vinyl - nope.

have a damp rag, bucket of water to rinse off any splash onto exposed skin.
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Old 01-23-21, 06:59 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by repechage
be sure to wear the right type of gloves, latex don’t cut it. Vinyl - nope.
The correct gloves are Sol-Vex gloves made by Ansell. They are pricey but fortunately they last a long time. I've had mine for 20+ years.
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Old 01-23-21, 07:19 AM
  #30  
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Thanks for the input!

Originally Posted by Slowride79
Your issue is temperature. I have used paint stripper extensively on both wood and metals and can tell you below 70F the effectiveness in removing paint drops precipitously! Find another place to work or wait for warmer weather otherwise you’re wasting your time and unnecessarily exposing yourself to these harsh chemicals!
Even my wife recommended bringing this part of the project up to the heated part of the house.Mostly want to ensure I don't get stripper on the finished floors or any other surface. I had a portable heater in the basement and not getting uo to even 60F down there.

Originally Posted by repechage
note- Saran Wrap after applying stripper will extend the working time as the volatiles won’t evaporate as fast- providing more time to work.

be sure to wear the right type of gloves, latex don’t cut it. Vinyl - nope. have a damp rag, bucket of water to rinse off any splash onto exposed skin.
I'll try Saran wrap, then.

Originally Posted by J.Higgins
The correct gloves are Sol-Vex gloves made by Ansell. They are pricey but fortunately they last a long time. I've had mine for 20+ years.
Sounds great but I'm already behind schedule on the projects, I'd like to get all the paint off and, sadly, the forks off to the chrome shop ASAP because that's another 2 weeks until replated. Hmm, not sure but Ansell sounds familiar. Years ago, I was briefly a buyer for a janitorial-products distributor, and recall Ansell brand gloves. Aah, Google shows they make nitrile gloves. Amazon has them but +/- $100 for a dozen pairs... nope. I'll risk it. All these decades of old bike, old cars and old house means I've had every conceivable chemical on my hands at one time or another.
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