Rockhopper bottom bracket cable-guide screw blockage
#1
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Rockhopper bottom bracket cable-guide screw blockage
Hey all,
Found (most of) a Rockhopper in the trash, workin on cleaning it up, getting it rolling again. It had no crankset or bottom bracket in the shell. I have a couple cartridge BB laying around (octalink, UN-55), and the standard threading seems ok, but there's a HUGE obstacle where the cable guide screw comes into the shell -- as well as extra metal there to hold the screw. Pic:
Got started filing it down, but it's gonna take a while. What kind of BB is supposed to go in there?
Here's a picture of the full bike:
Found (most of) a Rockhopper in the trash, workin on cleaning it up, getting it rolling again. It had no crankset or bottom bracket in the shell. I have a couple cartridge BB laying around (octalink, UN-55), and the standard threading seems ok, but there's a HUGE obstacle where the cable guide screw comes into the shell -- as well as extra metal there to hold the screw. Pic:
Got started filing it down, but it's gonna take a while. What kind of BB is supposed to go in there?
Here's a picture of the full bike:
#2
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Traditional 3 piece BB slides right by-most likely what came out. One can remove the offending screw/bolt and cable guide, install cartridge BB and re install said cable guide and securing fastener. Power tools and threads can be a bad mix on this task.
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A steel frame Rpckhopper. What a great find! Probably 25 years old.
I'm thinking that bike pre-dates cartridge bottom brackets so the separate spindle would miss that fastener. It's probably part of the under the bottom bracket cable guide. If It was my bike I'd see if I could pinch those two little ears together and push the BB guide out. Then I'd cut off the ears and hold the cable guide in place with a dab of 3M Badge and Trim cement (AutoZone has it). Now you can use a semi-modern bottom bracket. Oh - before you sbuy a bottom bracket, be sure to measure the shell width. It's probably 73mm but I wouldn't be surprised if it turned out to be only 68mm. I'd check the dropout spacing too.
I'm thinking that bike pre-dates cartridge bottom brackets so the separate spindle would miss that fastener. It's probably part of the under the bottom bracket cable guide. If It was my bike I'd see if I could pinch those two little ears together and push the BB guide out. Then I'd cut off the ears and hold the cable guide in place with a dab of 3M Badge and Trim cement (AutoZone has it). Now you can use a semi-modern bottom bracket. Oh - before you sbuy a bottom bracket, be sure to measure the shell width. It's probably 73mm but I wouldn't be surprised if it turned out to be only 68mm. I'd check the dropout spacing too.
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I'm thinking that bike pre-dates cartridge bottom brackets so the separate spindle would miss that fastener. It's probably part of the under the bottom bracket cable guide. If It was my bike I'd see if I could pinch those two little ears together and push the BB guide out. Then I'd cut off the ears and hold the cable guide in place with a dab of 3M Badge and Trim cement (AutoZone has it). Now you can use a semi-modern bottom bracket.
Pinching the ears together, that's an idea, maybe flexing them back and forth enough will just break them off, and then as you say, just cement the cable guide in place, it's not that critical of a part.
Or should I look for an old 3-piece caged-bearing BB with a narrower spindle?
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Are you sure that the protrusion is steel? It kinda looks like a removable threaded plastic push pin. You'll find out when pinching the ears together.
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It is likely the plastic piece is a 'clip' part of the cable guide. It is possible it does not require a screw at all. If the plastic sticks through enough to interfere with the BB, you can break off or drill through the cable guide to remove the clip and just use a screw. NB, throw away that rusty MF'n screw someone found in grandpa's toolbox. The hole in the BB shell of the frame is very probably M5 threaded and a water bottle bolt will thread in and hold the cable guide tightly.
If the screw is sticking out so much it interferes with a BB, cut it, dear Liza, CUT IT. It's not rocket surgery.
If the screw is sticking out so much it interferes with a BB, cut it, dear Liza, CUT IT. It's not rocket surgery.
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#9
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Hmmm, it seems to be filing down like metal, but if it turns out to be just a clip part of the guide, that would be great!
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You could also clip off the ears of the cable guide and use a slightly larger sheet metal screw. The screw would screw into the metal of the bottom bracket shell. This is a common way to hold the cable guide on the shell. Again, you will probably have to file the screw down to fit.
Lubricate the screw, by the way.
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Jesus, just remove the cable guide, install the bb and then put the cable guide back on. Maybe you shouldn't be trying to tackle something this complicated.
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'just remove the cable guide' -- if I thought/realized those were just plastic clips sticking in, I would have done that already. It seemed like a metal collar to receive the screw.
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It should be pretty dang obvious that they're plastic and part of the guide, and the the split is there so it can be installed/removed.
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Once off, I’d proceed like I suggested above. Most newer designs don’t have the “ears” at all and just fit on the outside of the shell and are held in place with a screw.
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
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Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Last edited by cyccommute; 02-16-21 at 03:54 PM.
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awesome, thx. I'm sure that will get me where I need to go
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Did some updates on the stumpjumper today, thought I'd post a pic:
Tires (and whole front wheel actually) taken from a Huffy rejected from my work's Christmas bikes-for-kids drive, for having a fork welded together wrong so the dropouts are like 30-40deg off from straight forward.
I put that wheel on the front, not just the tire, because the previous wheel had a trouble with a burr or something on the valve hole ruining tubes.
I could probably have put the back wheel on the back to make a better match (7sp still), but it's a disc rim with decorative grooves, I wanted at least one wheel to have a proper brake track.
New pedals: Stolen/Thermalite in white
Tires (and whole front wheel actually) taken from a Huffy rejected from my work's Christmas bikes-for-kids drive, for having a fork welded together wrong so the dropouts are like 30-40deg off from straight forward.
I put that wheel on the front, not just the tire, because the previous wheel had a trouble with a burr or something on the valve hole ruining tubes.
I could probably have put the back wheel on the back to make a better match (7sp still), but it's a disc rim with decorative grooves, I wanted at least one wheel to have a proper brake track.
New pedals: Stolen/Thermalite in white
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Question:
That vintage 7sp shifter is really mushy and difficult to operate.
There is a 7sp shifter on the donor bike I could switch to.
Are all 7sp shifters going to be the same cable pull? Should it be a simple drop-in?
That vintage 7sp shifter is really mushy and difficult to operate.
There is a 7sp shifter on the donor bike I could switch to.
Are all 7sp shifters going to be the same cable pull? Should it be a simple drop-in?
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Did some updates on the stumpjumper today, thought I'd post a pic:
Tires (and whole front wheel actually) taken from a Huffy rejected from my work's Christmas bikes-for-kids drive, for having a fork welded together wrong so the dropouts are like 30-40deg off from straight forward.
I put that wheel on the front, not just the tire, because the previous wheel had a trouble with a burr or something on the valve hole ruining tubes.
I could probably have put the back wheel on the back to make a better match (7sp still), but it's a disc rim with decorative grooves, I wanted at least one wheel to have a proper brake track.
New pedals: Stolen/Thermalite in white
Tires (and whole front wheel actually) taken from a Huffy rejected from my work's Christmas bikes-for-kids drive, for having a fork welded together wrong so the dropouts are like 30-40deg off from straight forward.
I put that wheel on the front, not just the tire, because the previous wheel had a trouble with a burr or something on the valve hole ruining tubes.
I could probably have put the back wheel on the back to make a better match (7sp still), but it's a disc rim with decorative grooves, I wanted at least one wheel to have a proper brake track.
New pedals: Stolen/Thermalite in white
The grooves in the brake track are wear indicators on that front wheel. It was designed to be used on a disk or rim brake bicycle.
The obstacle in the BB is supposed to be cleared by the bb axle, if you use a cartridge bb you have to modify it by removing the screw and part of the plastic.
My 1990 rockhopper is converted to cartridge bb.
Last edited by Schweinhund; 12-18-22 at 08:27 AM. Reason: Someone said stumpy, it's not.
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That's a 1995 Rockhopper, not a stumpy Who said it was a stumpy???
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Have tied flushing the shifters with solvent? That should clean up the actions.
Looks like Shimano, Shimano 7 speed sis will be compatible with any Shimano 7 sis.
Looks like Shimano, Shimano 7 speed sis will be compatible with any Shimano 7 sis.
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It's a combo of a 1990 'hopper f/f and other parts pulled from a 1991 stumpy (strong arm cranks, wheels)
#22
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The plastic cable guide got cleared up before, I should have realized from the pic where it is easier to see than when I was just looking with my old eyesballs.
The shifter is not original, most of the parts swiped from some other bike. I haven't tried solvent, not sure if I'll try that or just swap the shifter.
Good to know about that brake track is ok for rim braking! I might just swap that other rear wheel on so they match. It already has a 7sp on it
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Ideal would be to remove and completely disassenble the shifter and rebuild it.