Happy Feet

Here's a write up I did about my recent trip and a video of the pictures:





in June, 2017 I decided to take a two week holiday through the Canadian Rockies via the Columbia Icefield Parkway. After all, that stretch of highway is rated as one of the top ten bicycle touring destinations in the world and it exists, figuratively speaking, just outside my backdoor. With tickets purchased and bike packed in a box, I flew to Calgary from Abbotsford and then rode it over 400km's through Banff and Lake Louise to Jasper, stopping to hike and trail ride along the way. Once I got there I hopped a VIA passenger train back towards my home in Abbotsford.

This is that trip.

Day 1: Abbotsford to Calgary.

Months of planning have come down to this.

The 4am alarm woke my wife and I too early it seemed after a restless night and dawn was just beginning to brighten the eastern sky as we drove to the Airport for my 6am WestJet flight. We'd only had one full day together as it was since her return from two weeks abroad in England and Scotland on a singing tour and now I was off for two more weeks of biking and hiking through the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Thank goodness for Cell phones.

As well as the usual bicycle touring I planned to also hike and trail ride this trip so I chose a hybrid bikepacking system that is a little more rugged and versatile than the traditional saddlebag/pannier set up. In a handlebar roll I carried a small tent, fly and sleeping mat. In a frame bag were the bike tools, stove fuel and heavier odds and ends. In a 25L drybag/packsack strapped to the rear rack I had a sleeping bag, clothes and food. The backpack I planned to use for hiking as well. On top of it strapped a small solar panel array with which I hoped to remain "off the grid" for the duration of the trip. Both the backpack and handlebar bag were small enough for airplane carry on baggage limits so I only had to check and pay a small fee for my boxed bike.

After goodbyes and personal bits I was off and running and the flight aboard the 737 was quick, affording beautiful views of the Northern Cascades at day break. I was able to see the snow peaks of Mt. Baker, Mt. Rainer and Mt. St Helen's; three of a chain of volcanic peaks that stretch down into California along the Pacific coast and comprise part of the Pacific Ring of Fire.

In Calgary I was picked up by my father in law and hosted by he and his wife for the rest of the day as I put my bike together and collected a few things I couldn't take on the flight (Bear Spray, Fuel). Ray and Alvina are thoughtful and generous and we spent the afternoon relaxing in the warm Calgary weather. I watched in admiration as this couple of 53 years shared the little things in life like pulling and washing early radishes from the garden. I haven't eaten a radish in years! For dinner my brother in law Ron came over and BBQ'd burgers and baked potatoes. We talked for a while and then I retired early for the first day of riding in the morning.

Day 2: Calgary to Banff.

With a casual 8am start Ray drove me to the edge of town after a wonderful breakfast cooked by Alvina. This is the second time in 10 months they have opened their home to host me as I've set off for the mountains during a bike trip and I really appreciated their kindness.

A nice morning with a not too bright sun became my constant companions as I rode the rolling hills westward. Before long a headwind picked up and remained against me all the way to Banff, which was expected but made for much harder riding as the day wore on. Against a stiff breeze it feels like one is pedaling uphill all the time and even the occasional rest you should be afforded on downhill sections is minimized as one loses forward rolling momentum.

After reaching the high point of Scott Hill where I spoke to a retired traveler from Manitoba, I made a plan to eat lunch down the road at Lac Des Arcs, but it seemed to take forever to get there. As a result I had a bit of a bonk, which is bicycle jargon for running out of gas. I thought then that I might just stop and camp at Canmore however, once I got to that point, I doggedly trudged the rest of the way to good ol' Banff, my spiritual mecca where I connected so closely with nature as a young man.

The animal count from Calgary was not so bad with sightings of Gophers and Hawks, Deer, a Coyote and a Beaver. Just west of Lac Des Arcs I saw what looked like a large black dog run out of the tree line towards the road in tall grass. Who let their Rottweiler out there? I though. Then it stood up on its hind legs and looked right at me. Black Bear Cub! I realized a mother bear must be not too far behind and probably wouldn't appreciate a strange looking two wheeled beast rolling headlong towards her young, so I crossed over the median and rode a few hundred yards past on the opposite side... Discretion being the better part of valour.

Made it to Banff by dinner time and set up camp on Tunnel Mt. for a few days of hub and spoke exploring. "Hub and Spoke" is another cycling term that describes out and back trips taken from a central location.

Day 3: Banff.

Woke up early but laid around till 9am to let the sun warm me then loaded my packsack for a day of wandering around Banff. I didn't have any change for the shuttle bus, which stopped 1km away, so I decided to walk the whole 4km's into town. Fresh mountain air and all that.

First stop, as on most days to come, was at Starbucks for a Tall Pike and then some souvenir shopping. afterward I visited the Post Office and mailed those souvenirs, and an old hubcap I had found the day before along the road, back home to Abbotsford.

Finally with some change in my pocket I caught the bus to the Sulphur Mt. Gondola and hiked the 6km trail beneath it up to the summit. It was an unrelenting climb but totally worth it as I topped out into a snow flurry on top. Walked up to the stone weather station for some photos and then had coffee in the mountain top cafe before heading down in the Gondola. Once down I walked the short distance over to the Hot Springs and relaxed in waters that are heated deep within thermal vents that run underneath the mountain.

Had a great conversation with some Japanese tourists at the bus stop and tried a few words on them, which they were delighted with, and then returned to Starbucks for yet another coffee. Shopped at the supermarket for a dinner of hard boiled eggs and potato salad ($3.95) and caught the bus back up Tunnel Mt. While walking the 1km back to camp along a mountain trail I talked on the cell phone to Roxane 1000km's away. The juxtaposition of remoteness and connectedness was surreal.
Ended the day by journaling at the picnic table and then reading and listening to music in the tent.

Day 4: Banff.

Had a restless sleep (maybe the late afternoon coffee) waking off and on until 4:20am when I heard the first songbird of the day and then drifted off until 9am again. This time I rode into town instead of walking. Decided to do the Spray River loop, which is a trail that follows one side, crosses, and returns down the other of a tributary that runs the length of the Rundle Range from Banff to Canmore. The trailhead starts at the Banff Springs Hotel, a magnificent CPR landmark. It was an awesome ride through the woods at the foot of the mountains with a mix of logging road, trail, single track and even a few rocky sections and washouts in it. It doesn't get any better than that! I'm really happy that I chose to use my converted touring mountain bike that can handle a wide variety of conditions.

Eventually I returned on the loop and rode past Bow Falls back up to camp for a while and then took the bus back up to the Hot Springs. after that it was back to town for dinner at the Old Spaghetti Factory; a total carb fest! It was cloudy and cool for most of the day but the sun came out in the end to make for a wonderful evening.

Day 5: Banff.

Slept well and, after a Starbucks coffee, rode out to Sundance Canyon beyond the Cave and Basin historic site. That was a relaxing trail and road ride on which I saw some Elk in a marsh and had a refreshing cool drink from the roaring creek in the canyon.

Back on Banff Avenue I tried a popular pastry called a Beaver Tail, which is really just fried dough with sugary toppings added. Oh well, had to see what all the fuss was about and can now scratch that one off the bucket list. Returned to camp, had a shower and a rest, and then returned to town for dinner. A beautiful end to the day and my time in Banff; the birds were singing in the trees and chipmunks were scampering around my tent.

It's funny. I feel young at heart and full of curiosity regarding the world around me but when I look at the pictures I take of myself I see an old man looking back. I should know better but it still makes me feel sad. At the same time I see so many young people visibly full of life yet disinterested in the natural world. Most don't venture very far outside of the norm while I feel like I am burning the candle at both ends trying to see and do it all. I wish I could trade one of their knees (the left) for half of my enthusiasm. I would still have plenty to spare and wouldn't limp so much.

Day 6: Banff to Lake Louise.

Broke camp and rode downtown for the last time to have coffee and breakfast. I only need to do 60km's today so I am taking my time... which is harder than it sounds for me.

Beautiful ride out towards Lake Louise with sunny weather and just a moderate headwind in places. the km's fly by and before I know it I'm passing under the looming buttresses of Castle Mt. Arrived at about 2:30pm to find the village packed with people being bused in from overflow parking 3km's away and the campsite was full. Hum...

Checked out the Hostel and got a 4 bed dorm room for $58. Sounds expensive but the cheapest hotel room around here would cost at least 5 times that much if not more. But it does put a crimp in my plans to stay for a few days so I will set off up the Icefield Parkway sooner than expected I think. The Hostel itself is very nice with a cafe, showers, laundry facilities and a Great Room upstairs in the lodge. It has a stone fireplace, big wooden beams books and leather sofas and I spend the evening there reading and talking to Roxane. It is empty and very peaceful after the human chaos of the village.

Day 7: Lake Louise to Mosquito Creek.

Up at 7am after a good sleep with my two Korean roommates. I think one was a tour bus driver and the other was a young Grad touring Canada alone before starting work in the fall. I checked my bike into storage and then set off to catch the first shuttle up to the Chateau.

Another beautiful morning looking across the lake at the Plain of Six Glaciers and the hidden tea house I was about to hike up to. Past the Back of the Lake (a popular rock climbing spot) the path winds upward for 6.4 km's to a small dining chalet that has been in operation for almost 90 years.

It was a steady climb with great vistas that went from the valley floor to sub alpine meadows. I thought I might never stop taking pictures and make it. The tea house, a privately owned two story rustic log cabin, overlooks the Victoria Glacier and surrounding peaks. It is totally off the grid and supplies are either flown in or hiked up with staff that rotate out every five days. I sat on the elevated wrap around veranda for some homemade soup, bread and Earl Grey tea while talking with a young couple from Pennsylvania. The tea must have packed quite a caffeine kick because afterward, I fairly ran back down to the lake.

Once again at the Hostel I packed up the bike and set off for the Icefield Parkway. I was excited because that also meant roads I had not ridden before as I have twice done Calgary to Lake Louise on other trips. There was a steady uphill 29km climb to Mosquito Creek and I decided to pull in at the campsite there for the night as it was the last stop before tackling the Bow Summit ahead. The campsite was full as well but the host let me set up in the field by the cookhouse which was fine as it was flat and grassy and close to cover.

Met my first bike tourer, Phil from St. Paul, who was riding down from Jasper to Banff. I've seen a lot of cyclists doing supported riding so far but I don't get the same sense of camaraderie from them as they whiz past without a return to the wave tourers often give one another. Phil and I talked for a while and then I retired to my tent after journalling to read and listen to music.

Day 8: Mosquito Creek to Rampart Creek.

Arrived early at a near empty Rampart Creek after covering about 60 km's today. I would have liked to have kept going but there are no more campsites before the next big climb to the Columbia Summit which I want to cross early in the day tomorrow.

Slept in at Mosquito Creek last night (that wound up having about ten tents in the field by evening) and set off with a plan to eat breakfast at the Num Ti Ja Lodge on the Bow Summit. I arrived at the crowded red roofed lodge that overlooks the Bow Glacier by 10:15am and had a muffin, coffee and cookie that set me back $16. Everywhere you look there are tour buses and RV's along the Parkway, all collecting at tourist stops like this, but on the road there is still a feeling of isolation and immersion in the natural surroundings. Riding on the shoulder I just tune out the road traffic so it comes as a bit of a shock when I pull into a popular place and I usually set off again pretty quickly. There is nothing really to talk with anyone about and I get a sense that we are not really sharing the same experience anyway.

Beyond the lodge there is still a bit of a climb to the actual summit, one of two in the Parkway, and then I enjoy the long downhill run on the other side, taking the lane and tucking down for maximum speed. Taking the Lane is another cycling term for riding on the road instead of the shoulder. I like to do it on steep downhills as it gives more space to maneuver and the pavement is usually better there than along the curb.

The scenery is amazing - both the far off mountain vistas and close up views of roadside brooks and waterfalls with wildflowers like Paint Brush, Poppies and Alpine Lilies in bloom. Saw a small group of Mountain Goats on the road and 40km's later rolled into Saskatchewan Crossing for lunch.

$24 and about 12km's further on I arrived at Rampart Creek campsite to find it practically deserted, which was odd after the crowded conditions yesterday at Mosquito Creek. Looking at the map it is 40km's of steep uphill climbing to the Columbia Summit tomorrow but I am strangely looking forward to the challenge.

Day 9: Rampart Creek to Athabasca Falls.

Up at 7am and away by 8 after a surprisingly good nights sleep. At Rampart I camped alone and read on the bulletin board that a bear had been sighted near my spot just that very afternoon so I expected to have a restless night listening for every scrape and twig snap in the woods around me. Instead I dozed right off and slept the night through. Go figure?

While making breakfast in the cookhouse I met a Belgium bike tourer who was also heading towards Jasper and had a short conversation with him before setting off.

On the road I was ready for a morning of physical effort and was greeted by yet another beautiful day of sunny but not too hot weather. I totally enjoyed the scenery and sense of grand scale in the mountains and had a grin on my face as I passed the Weeping Wall with a beautiful view of its distant summit bathed in sunlight through a high hanging gap. I reached the "Hairpin", a round 180 degree loop in the road below Bridal Veil Falls and battled a fierce headwind going into it. That changed once I turned the corner of the curve and then had a tailwind that helped push me up the big hill!

Eventually cresting the pass there was a new decided chill to the air from the surrounding glaciers but the sun still made for perhaps the most enjoyable day of riding I have ever had as I passed under Parker Ridge and on to the Icefield Summit Center with unbelievable views of the soaring mountains and large glaciers that make up the hydrographic center of Canada, from which point waters flow to the Pacific, Atlantic and Arctic Oceans. It is the only place on earth that feeds three oceans like that. After a lunch of French Fries and coffee I had had enough of the crowds so I was back on the road again.

During the afternoon I was riding along a quiet stretch of road when a group of 20 or so motorcycles pulled up, slowed and began merging onto the shoulder all around me. That was weird? I wasn't worried about a "Wild Bunch" scenario as they seemed to be part of an organized tour or something but found it rather rude that they would pick that particular spot of the whole highway to pull over. They all dismounted quickly and began taking out cameras and focusing on the far shoulder where a large Back Bear was loping along, occasionally eating fresh shoots from the grass. I didn't even know it was there! Those crazy motorcyclists were walking right across the road to get close ups, I guess they felt protected in their leathers, but I was aware of being a little more exposed in polyester shorts on my bicycle so I just kept riding while whipping out my own camera for a quick shot.

The first anticipated camping option of the day was Jonas Creek but I passed that at 2:30pm and kept on rolling. Next was Honeymoon Lakes Campground but at 4pm I still wanted to go so I continued on towards Athabasca Falls. Arrived at a Hostel there by 5:30 and checked in. I would only have a short ride from there to Jasper but I wanted to arrive in town during the day when I could shop, set up camp and get a lay of the land so I decided to give Hosteling another try. Altogether about 110 km's of excellent riding for the day.

The Wilderness Hostel had three dorm buildings and a central lodge with only three people (including myself) when I arrived. I made noodles and settled in to the solitude to read a book. Not long after a bus with 19 people rolled in and, while it got a bit more crowded, there was still a good friendly feeling to the evening. The bus was full of international tourists doing a one week whirlwind tour from Vancouver to Jasper and I felt a little sorry for them. Their experience of Jasper would be from 8pm one day until 9am the next. I planned on having a bit more time than that.

Day 10: Athabasca Falls to Jasper.

Left the Hostel by 9:30am and stopped at the falls before covering the last 32km's to Jasper. First day of rain of the trip so far! Still enjoyable to ride mostly downhill or level terrain that changed from sub alpine to valley floor forest following the course of the mighty Athabasca river. As it was I was pretty wet when I finally rolled into Jasper before noon.

Went to Tim Hortons first off for coffee and lunch and felt low for a bit being soaked and dirty around other tourists and having to sit outside because the cafe was so crowded. I had finished my book by this time so I rode around looking for a replacement. As luck would have it a local resident turned me on to a used book sale at the local museum and I picked up a big, easy reading volume to see me through.

Decided to head to Whistlers Campground next to find a site and met the tourer from Belgium again. We talked a bit more and then I hit the showers and felt halfway human once more (first since Lake Louise). Saw a Brown Fox walk right through the campsite. Packed up the laundry and headed the 2.4km's back to town to the laundromat, which had a coffee shop and comfy chairs where I washed and dried my clothes, talked to Roxane, and got out of my rainy day funk.

After looking around I opted for dinner at an Indian Buffet and then headed back to camp where I journalled in the cookhouse filled with young Germans having a fire out of the rain. That was kind of nice but kinda changed when they joined a group of young Quebec'rs to party at the campsite next to mine later on.

Day 11: Jasper.

What a difference a day can make.

It rained all night (I was snug in my tent) and then stopped at dawn to unfold into a day of warm sunshine. The "Youngsters" stumbled around next door loudly until 3am and I hope they got it out of their system but somehow I doubt it. Currently there are three tent groups in a site meant for one and while I appreciate their youthful sense of exuberant adventure it gets pretty annoying when they are all there together late at night. I suppose it is a case of two ideals of what camping is about - quiet solitude or rambunctious partying. Them free from their parents.. me.. well.. a parent.

Met a couple of guys that work in a bike shop in town and they showed me some routes on the map to do as day trips. Today I decided to ride up to Patricia and Pyramid Lakes which was very scenic. I have actually been to Patricia Lake before diving on World War II wreckage of a (then) top secret idea called Project Habbakuk which was to be a floating ice ship impregnable to German U Boat torpedoes. But that's another story.

After riding to the lakes I returned down through the woods on single track trails. Lots of fun but also kinda sketchy riding fast through the woods where bears are common.

Back in town I found a nice woolen cycling jersey and bought it as my memento for the trip. Grabbed a coffee and sat on the sidewalk reading my book as a guy played guitar nearby. By then I was hungry so I bought some food from the grocery store and had a late picnic lunch near the train station.

Rode back to camp and met two more riders from Belgium and one from Portugal, took a shower and laid in my tent for a rest. Afterward I cooked dinner in the cookhouse, journalled and listened to music until I fell asleep.

Day 12: Jasper.

The Youngsters next door were at it again until 1:30am, even though a Parks employee told them to quite down at 11pm because there had been "complaints". Dumb thing to say because, as soon as she left, they began swearing and complaining at length about those neighbors who should just talk to them instead of going to the office. Great, and I'm camped right next door. Thanks Parks Canada. Could have just said time to tone it down because of the posted quite time regulations instead of putting the onus on other campers.

Ate some cold Alpha Getti's for breakfast and set off to ride the hill up to the Tramway. It was a steep mean 4km grind and by the time I got up there I was pooped, so I splurged and took the Tram up instead of hiking the trail underneath. Good decision as it turned out because once on top of Whistlers Mt. you can hike for km's up to the summit and beyond along beautiful alpine ridges. On top there was just shale, snow and patches of small flowers; a landscape I really enjoyed and I felt that old love of climbing I hadn't had in years. I actually dislike hiking in wooded forests because they feel closed in but love the rarefied air and exposure of mountain summits above the tree line.

After spending a wonderful time alone on the rockpile I descended down to the Tram summit building and had lunch in the cafe. What! A real homemade veggie burger and fries - Heaven.

Once at the base again I fairly flew down the hill I had cranked up earlier, so fast that I almost passed the car traveling ahead of me. Stopped in at camp for a shower and then rode to town for coffee and a bagel and shopped for dinner. Visited the Jasper Museum which was small but a nice change of pace that afforded some background information on the surrounding area.

Rode back to camp and saw a small herd of Elk cow and calves basking in the coolness of a wooded area by the stream near my tent. Cooked dinner and then lay in my tent for a while. Soon enough more young people began to gather at the campsite next door carrying beer cases so I went to the office and told them I was switching sites. I removed the fly and bundled up the tent and completed the move to a quieter area in less than half an hour. I could have complained and tried to change the other campers behavior but it seemed the Parks employees weren't going to enforce the curfew rule anyway and a simple move would allow both parties to pursue their idea of "fun" without argument. I'm so darned... Canadian.

Day 13: Jasper.

Canada Day!

Rained during the night but tapered off in the morning so I slept in until 9:30am and then tossed some things in the packsack for the day. Headed to town and listened to some speeches being given by local politicians in front of the Parks building. It began to rain halfway through and many people walked away but the politicians kept on talking regardless. I guess we could call them fair weather Canadians or maybe just sensible.

Bought some cheese and bagels for a picnic lunch, caught the small parade on the way out of town and rode out to Maligne Canyon. The road was a little nervy with trees growing right up to the shoulder in prime bear habitat but the canyon was beautiful (can you use that word too much) and steeply carved through the limestone Karst.

After walking the loop I ate my lunch and rode down and up past Lakes Annette and Edith towards the Jasper Lodge Resort. The road turned into a path there that looped around another lake and rejoined a secondary road on the other side leading back to Whistlers Campground. Along the way I saw a pair of big horned sheep grazing along the roadside and had, overall, a great day of riding through forest woodland and flowered meadows to celebrate Canada's birthday.

Day 14/15: Jasper to Abbotsford.

I could call this the "Day of unending Waits" as our train was delayed by 5 hours on top of the time already spent hanging around town for most of the morning doing nothing.

Woke up and broke camp by 10am and rode into Jasper to do some laundry (so I wouldn't smell on the train - you're welcome). After dawdling over that I wandered to the station and was told the 2:30pm train was not expected until 6 that evening. Ughh...

Checked my bike in so I wouldn't have to watch over it and wandered around town for hours looking in shops and drinking coffee and reading. Had an omelette lunch at Smitty's and then looked around some more. Finally made it back to the train depot and found out the train was delayed until 7 or 8.

Eventually... the train arrived at 7:30pm and after unloading and resupplying we all boarded Train #1 from Toronto to Vancouver and left the station; but not before I had to remind the staff to also load my bike which they had forgotten about. The sleepers were full but the economy cars were half empty and we peasants all had at least two seats each to spread out in. I read some more and went up to the observation car and sat for a while as we passed Mt. Robson, listening to other families enjoying the scenery. They were very excited about seeing wildlife and while they looked one way expectantly, I saw a Black Bear run up a siding the other way. I tried to tell them but it was too late.

It was a long slow ride throughout the night with our train having to pull over onto sidings and let freights pass many times. One advantage of the delay in departure though was that we passed through the Fraser Canyon in daylight and the then visible scenery was beautiful (there's that word again).

Finally... by mid morning we entered the Fraser valley at Hope and by 11:30am pulled up to a little patch of nothing called Abbotsford Station where I debarked on the siding with my bicycle and bags.

As the train pulled away I loaded up my bicycle once more and aimed it towards home which lay only 5km's away across the Matsqui Prairie. I said a last goodbye and thank you to the two week trip that involved Planes, Trains and Bicycles from Abbotsford to Calgary, through the Rocky Mountains to Jasper and back again.

It was a wonderful adventure.

Doug64

Dale,

Nice write-up, and great video! It looked like you had a good ride. Although, I think it would be hard to have a bad ride in that part of the world

Are the fires affecting your area?

Happy Feet

Thanks Doug.

We have some smoke in the air but are not in that region. I did pass through that whole area on the train just last week though.
The trip was great and the fact that I wound up having so much time due to buying a train ticket and not having to ride the extra 720km's home from Jasper let me do a lot of things that I might not otherwise have done. The hub and spoke idea is a new concept for me but a pretty neat way to tour and learn about specific areas along a route.

msquared22

Great write up! I'd love to visit that area someday.

Rowan

We didn't ride, but drove this time through that part of the world. We are likely to have passed each other somewhere along there as we made our usual trip up to Jasper to celebate our wedding anniversary there. We also made the obligatory stop at Athabasca Falls, which were ripping with water much more than the previous times we have been there, including as a turnaround point on one of the legs for our wedding century.

The Icefield Parkway is something to behold. It is my favourite part of the world, and we even looked at the possibilities of moving to Jasper; real estate prices are a bit steep, though. I took a video camera on this trip, and it has solely parkway footage on it for this trip... everything else just paled in comparison.

We are expecting to be back in Canada in 18 months' time. We should look up each other then!

skookum

Looks like a good trip. I was interested to hear about your success in finding places to camp or sleep, as there is a huge accommodation crunch in the National Parks, partly due to free admission this year to celebrate Canada 150.
I talked to a young couple from the UK who told me they couldn't find a place in Banff for less than $100 for a bed in a dorm! Luckily they found a warm showers room in Canmore.

Rowan, I agree Jasper would be a cool place to live. Do you have the "right to reside" thing figured out? You can't just move there unless you can prove a need to reside there. I have some friends who are retiring in Banff, they took fairly menial jobs at the Banff Centre for 5 years to be able to qualify for residence. He is a former telecomms executive but he was carrying suitcases at the Banff Centre.

Rowan

Are you talking specifically about "right to reside" just for Jasper/Icefield Parkway, or immigrating to Canada generally?

If the latter, we have several strategies we are working on... the first is that Machka is a Canadian, so we could use the spousal visa route, and the second relates to a sponsor arrangement with a potential employer I am talking with.

clasher

I'm passing through Banff and the cheapest place I found was the castle junction hostel at 33$ a night, they even provide sheets. I came up from Radium hot springs and plan on heading back someday to check out lake Louise and Jasper. I didn't plan hiking or anything.elae this trip and kind of regret that but I was out here for work and can only fly with so much gear.

Happy Feet

That's about right for hotel type stays. It's because there is such a high volume of international tourists. The HI hostel route is the cheapest with a $25 membership fee and major towns being about $50-60 and the wilderness chains about $30ish.

Camping, which is all Prov. or Fed. Parks was just over or under $20 depending.

The main Campground in Banff is Tunnel Mountain. In Jasper it's Whistlers or Wapiti. In Louise there is only one and it's small right near the Village.

Happy Feet

skookum

Sorry, Rowan I should have written "need to reside". You can't just move to a national park and live there, even if you own the property. You have to show a need to reside, which basically means you have a job that requires you to live there. Its to keep people from just moving to places like Jasper and having it turn into a mountain retreat for rich people. Its fairly controversial, I shared a campsite with a group from Banff, and that all they could talk about. There are always people trying to figure out a way around it. Including my friends that have earned the right to retire there by working menial jobs for five years.

I wasn't trying to question your immigration status. Thats none of my business.

https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/ab/jas...fo/plan/plan5c

skookum

It can be pretty tough to find camping spots when you're on a bicycle and cant just drive 50 km to the next campground at 5PM. I'm glad you were able to find places, its a shame that people travel from all over the world and then can't find a spot to camp or have to pay exorbitant amounts for a bed somewhere.

According to the news, they have hired extra staff to crack down on illegal camping, which is a big problem in the summer, especially around Banff and Lake Louise.

Dan Burkhart 

I made hundreds of trips through the parks over the years, but sadly, not on a bike. Would still like to do it some day.
When in Lake Louise, try the cheesecake at Laggan's Bakery. My nephew Jesse is the cheesecake maestro there.

Happy Feet

Hah! I stopped at Laggan's twice in Lake Louise. In particular I enjoyed a Veggie Sandwich on wholewheat bread that was delicious and very filling!