Where to Find the Elusive 1 x 9 Commuter Crankset?
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Where to Find the Elusive 1 x 9 Commuter Crankset?
I just bought another version of a bike I already own due to the frame geometry. This one is set to be my "power shopper" / errand bike as it's simply perfect for riding around locally in the flats. It's got front and rear rack mounts, fender mounts, and a square taper 1 x 9 (38 x 11-34) drivetrain! I did a test ride and the gearing is spot on for the tasks at hand, including some off-road automobile dodging. HOWEVER, the cranks are 172.5mm and I can immediately feel the difference in efficiency as I use 175s on all my bikes.
I have not been able to locate a 175 crankset with similar specs. I feel as if this crankset is a rare configuration without an adequate substitute. BMX is too short, fixie cogs are too big, and the 110BCDs can't accommodate a single 38 without complications or looking odd.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks as always for your informed replies!
I have not been able to locate a 175 crankset with similar specs. I feel as if this crankset is a rare configuration without an adequate substitute. BMX is too short, fixie cogs are too big, and the 110BCDs can't accommodate a single 38 without complications or looking odd.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks as always for your informed replies!
#2
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2.5mm is nothing on a crank. I'm thinking your feeling something else. I use 175 for high torque applications and 165 for high rpm applications, but really, 2.5 mm is nothing I notice. What exactly do you feel the difference is?
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You can get a 38t ring for a 130 mm bcd crank. It's not a common item, but they exist; not that I can imagine what's wrong with using a 110 mm bcd spider.
175 mm cranks are unnecessarily long, in my opinion; I know of no benefit to using a crank longer than 165. Using the 172.5 really shouldn't cause you any problems. But whatever; 175 mm cranks are not that hard to find, in either 110 mm bcd or 130 mm bcd.
175 mm cranks are unnecessarily long, in my opinion; I know of no benefit to using a crank longer than 165. Using the 172.5 really shouldn't cause you any problems. But whatever; 175 mm cranks are not that hard to find, in either 110 mm bcd or 130 mm bcd.
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#4
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I run a 1x9 with 38 t chain ring and 12-36 cassette.
Some suggest a couple mm in crank length does not make a difference,
That is not my experience.
Not sure what the OP is asking.
Chain ring on my 1x9 is from origin 8, for 130 mm bcc crank
Some suggest a couple mm in crank length does not make a difference,
That is not my experience.
Not sure what the OP is asking.
Chain ring on my 1x9 is from origin 8, for 130 mm bcc crank
#5
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Sorry if this is completely useless, but I'll put it out there just in case. I built up my first real commuter (would always go too fast/racey in the end) bike last year. Went with a SRAM Rival 1 GXP 172.5mm 110 42T X-Sync Crankset up front and an 11x36 in the back, it's a 1x10 drivetrain. I live in a pretty flat city, gets me around just fine, though I wouldn't mind a 38 or bigger in the back, but the Shimano XT RD only will accept up to a 36. This is my first 1x setup and I love the simplicity and the single shifter pod.
#7
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You can get a 38t ring for a 130 mm bcd crank. It's not a common item, but they exist; not that I can imagine what's wrong with using a 110 mm bcd spider.
175 mm cranks are unnecessarily long, in my opinion; I know of no benefit to using a crank longer than 165. Using the 172.5 really shouldn't cause you any problems. But whatever; 175 mm cranks are not that hard to find, in either 110 mm bcd or 130 mm bcd.
175 mm cranks are unnecessarily long, in my opinion; I know of no benefit to using a crank longer than 165. Using the 172.5 really shouldn't cause you any problems. But whatever; 175 mm cranks are not that hard to find, in either 110 mm bcd or 130 mm bcd.
#8
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Lots of options for a single ring. Check out some mt bike ones, like any. White, Surly, Velo orange should be of help. Also Rivendel.
#9
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Forgot to mention that I wanted to utilize the existing nifty little "chain guard" that encases the single sprocket. Keeps it from coming off. Yep, it's 104 BCD, but this ones a square taper interface and I don't really see too many of these...
In terms of crank length, I ride much more efficiently and cover more ground with 175s. I'm not a physicist or a physiologist, but IMO, leg (femur/tibia) length and crank length are correlated in terms of power and energy efficiency.
A few mm in crank length multiplied by thousands of revolutions adds up. This reminds me of a type of tennis ball I once used during an arm injury, They were called DUNLOP 'Absorber' balls. The label read, "15% less shock." I thought, "Oh boy, a whopping 15 percent...."
I then multiplied that by the thousands of times I struck a tennis ball every week and realized the extra $$ was well worth it. They have since been discontinued, but I can say that they certainly helped me through a rough period in my life...
In terms of crank length, I ride much more efficiently and cover more ground with 175s. I'm not a physicist or a physiologist, but IMO, leg (femur/tibia) length and crank length are correlated in terms of power and energy efficiency.
A few mm in crank length multiplied by thousands of revolutions adds up. This reminds me of a type of tennis ball I once used during an arm injury, They were called DUNLOP 'Absorber' balls. The label read, "15% less shock." I thought, "Oh boy, a whopping 15 percent...."
I then multiplied that by the thousands of times I struck a tennis ball every week and realized the extra $$ was well worth it. They have since been discontinued, but I can say that they certainly helped me through a rough period in my life...
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Technically you should get a narrow wide chainring and not need that bash guard. But if you insist on using it, then you'd just need a 104 bcd crank and a 38t ring. Why does it have to be square taper?
#11
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I just bought another version of a bike I already own due to the frame geometry. This one is set to be my "power shopper" / errand bike as it's simply perfect for riding around locally in the flats. It's got front and rear rack mounts, fender mounts, and a square taper 1 x 9 (38 x 11-34) drivetrain! I did a test ride and the gearing is spot on for the tasks at hand, including some off-road automobile dodging. HOWEVER, the cranks are 172.5mm and I can immediately feel the difference in efficiency as I use 175s on all my bikes.
I have not been able to locate a 175 crankset with similar specs. I feel as if this crankset is a rare configuration without an adequate substitute. BMX is too short, fixie cogs are too big, and the 110BCDs can't accommodate a single 38 without complications or looking odd.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks as always for your informed replies!
I have not been able to locate a 175 crankset with similar specs. I feel as if this crankset is a rare configuration without an adequate substitute. BMX is too short, fixie cogs are too big, and the 110BCDs can't accommodate a single 38 without complications or looking odd.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks as always for your informed replies!
Just look up with bolt pattern would suit you best. 4-104, 5-130 or 5-110 etc. some patterns are easier to find certain tooth rings for. I'd guess a 38 or 39 would be very easy for the 5 bolts since they usually come in 39-52 and similar.
#12
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also shimanos hollowtech 2 BBs cost like 10 bucks on chainreactioncycles. I would ditch square taper and get shimano HT2 cranks instead. Cheap and good.
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Your square taper bottom bracket isn’t sacred, bottom brackets of any style cost like $25 unless you get something needlessly fancy
#15
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michaelm if you look in my thread in the road forum. you will see 2 cranks (identical) that I just ground the teeth away from the big ring. and put a 42 on the inner pos. 9sp. very easy diy project. I do this on all my bikes since i like 1x systems. here is a DA crank i converted to 1x
#16
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middle ring of a triple crank is in the center, like a single ring chainring should be..
My 9 speed is a Sram i9 IGH..
My 9 speed is a Sram i9 IGH..
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michaelm if you look in my thread in the road forum. you will see 2 cranks (identical) that I just ground the teeth away from the big ring. and put a 42 on the inner pos. 9sp. very easy diy project. I do this on all my bikes since i like 1x systems. here is a DA crank i converted to 1x