Velocirapture

I always use the master link - I take the chain off when boxing up my bike, and some gear changes need different chain lengths.

All the ones i've used come with a spring clip to make sure there is no popping off, though, like the picture below

A chain that is separated often with a chainbreaker would make me nervous.

carleton

I'm 99% sure that it was user error.

I've never seen one fail.

Chains have a greater chance of failing when you remove and reinsert pins. Modern chains are not designed for such. They are designed to be used with the master links (like above).

Brian Ratliff

I've never had the clip type fail on me, but I've had a "screw and nut" type fail when I didn't tighten the nut tight enough and the screw worked its way out. I always put screw and nut type chains on nut-out now, so I can easy inspect and see if the nut is still in place and the screw tight.

I've also had a chain outright break on me when I was using a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" freewheel and a bad chainline. I believe the chain was trying to ride up on the tops of the 3/32" freewheel teeth causing a lot of pressure on the sideplate, eventually separating one. For this reason, I'll never again use a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" cog.

I agree with Velocirapture that using chains where a chainbreak has been used to remove a single pin too many times makes me nervous. The ends of the pins are a press fit; not as bad as road chains, but enough that every time you remove a pin it very slightly enlarges the hole.

sbs z31

Ok thanks guys and I think my next chain I'm planning to get I'll use the masterlink. Another question, do you guys think I'll be fine with a Shimano UN55 bottom braclet or should I go with a higher end bottom bracket?

MarkWW

The UN55 is fine. I think I raced my first two seasons on a un55. Problem Solvers does make an aluminum version of the non drive side plastic cup if yours cracks or anything, but that's not usually an issue.

sbs z31

Thanks and Shimano UN55 bottom bracket it is then.

mxs

I really like the screw-type link on my Izumi. Are the side plates specially made for these or could I hypothetically pop the pin out of a 710sl and use a spare screw from an Izumi?

carleton

If you notice on the Izumi V chain, the pin threads into both the opposite plate and the nut (that acts as a locking nut). The K710 doesn't have a threaded plate to accept the screw and I wouldn't depend on just the nut.

So, no, hypothetically you can't do it.

Baby Puke

Here a small, random question: Zipp 900 disc, do these ****ing bearings ever loosen up and smooth out? After a year of ownership, still decidedly crunchewy. Don't tell me to go ceramic.

carleton

Is it new?

I have a zipp 900 disc and I have had to have the bearings replaced once already. They are an odd size, so I had to get the shop to order them directly from Zipp. They are sort of thin (using smaller ball bearings). Thinner than normal bearings from sealed hubs.

Maybe you can get a warranty replacement set?

Baby Puke

So I guess you're saying this is not normal. I've had it for a year, used only for racing, so it's rolled half a dozen times or so.

Soil_Sampler

kmc pin

Slavic

Those interested may find this upcoming BMX chain of interest:


It uses an allen key based master link that works via threaded pin, comes with both half links and full 1/2" links, and may help out people who worry about breaking their chain all the time for different gear ratios.

Edit: It's called the Key chain, and it's made by Odyssey.

carleton

Here's an interview with the product manufacturer: https://www.odysseybmx.com/dailyword/...hris-cotsonas/

It's hard to tell if it's on the market yet. It was announced over a year ago.

MarkWW

They'll sound a little noisy just by nature of the disc construction, but you shouldn't feel anything abnormal while spinning it in your hand.

slindell

Zipp wheels seem to run a bit rough in my experience. To find the right bearings check on the Zipp site. https://www.zipp.com/support/identify/hub_timeline.php The bearings are all available in steel or ceramic at various places and not too bad to replace unless you get into the freehub, but you don't need that on the track.

Slavic

Not on the market yet, but should be in production by the time the 2014 season rolls round.

Baby Puke

It ain't noisy, the bearings just feel like crap. Anybody have a buttery feeling 900? Did you have to do anything to get it that way?

Hida Yanra

small question- does *Anyone* have a link to the last day of the Berlin 6?
Seems that some serious business went down.

queerpunk

aw man, really?
what'd you hear?

Hida Yanra

Here's a Six-day dot com news recap, or some of the racers were tweeting about it last night.
I'm just counting the numbers on my fingers here, but it seems like a pretty serious throw down.

Impreza_aL

i've owned both the non dimpled and dimpled 900, they both spun well. from what i remember there is a slight bearing preload when installing the track axle. have you tried giving it a 1/8 turn to loosen it?

i actually preferred the non dimpled version because it was heavier that thing carried speed very well.

Baby Puke

I don't know about other versions, but this wheel is a 2012 model and there is no preload adjustment on the axle. Its either tight or its not.

Quinn8it

Ffwd ftw

carleton

Are the stickers removable on those yet?

Zack K. here in Portland is sponsored by them. I asked him to send that feedback to them. They would be waaaaay more popular if the stickers were removable like they are on Zipp and Mavic wheelsets (their direct competition that happens to be out-selling them).

The new Shimano track set is also nice...but the stickers are not removable.

Logo overkill is a pet peeve of mine

On a related note:



It's a rolling alphabet. It's like camouflage...seriously.

Can someone photoshop that bike and black-out the logos? I don't have PS on my work computer.