Fitting 141mm Rear Hub on 131mm Frame
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Fitting 141mm Rear Hub on 131mm Frame
Hi,
Recently i just bought a hub set. The rear hub is measured 141mm and my rear frame is measured 131mm. My frame is heat treated aluminium. Difference of 10mm. Should i force in the hub? Can I skim down the nut 3mm on both sides?
Thanks
Regards,
Noraswan
Recently i just bought a hub set. The rear hub is measured 141mm and my rear frame is measured 131mm. My frame is heat treated aluminium. Difference of 10mm. Should i force in the hub? Can I skim down the nut 3mm on both sides?
Thanks
Regards,
Noraswan
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Moved here from general cycling.
141mm suggests through axle, and 130 would be quick release or bolted. So that would be a real problem for using the hubs. Can you tell us more about the hubs you bought and the make and model of the bicycle?
You can upload pictures to your gallery and we can move them here if you let us know.
141mm suggests through axle, and 130 would be quick release or bolted. So that would be a real problem for using the hubs. Can you tell us more about the hubs you bought and the make and model of the bicycle?
You can upload pictures to your gallery and we can move them here if you let us know.
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You bought the wrong hub.
Period.
=8-|
Period.
=8-|
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
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So is there any suggestion to be done with the current hub situation? Other than purchasing another hub.
Last edited by NoraswanLatiff; 10-28-20 at 12:31 AM. Reason: Add on
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QR141 is the quick release version of Boost, which is now endemic on mountain bikes that are not quite expensive enough to have cartridge bearing hubs and thru axles. It’s also conveniently close to 140, which was a tandem standard. Either way it’s heavy duty.
130 is road bike standard. Usually pretty svelte.
130 is road bike standard. Usually pretty svelte.
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QR141 is the quick release version of Boost, which is now endemic on mountain bikes that are not quite expensive enough to have cartridge bearing hubs and thru axles. It’s also conveniently close to 140, which was a tandem standard. Either way it’s heavy duty. Would very likely have a disc mount.
130 is road bike standard. Usually pretty svelte. Would likely not have a disc mount.
Anyhow, sorry.
130 is road bike standard. Usually pretty svelte. Would likely not have a disc mount.
Anyhow, sorry.
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Not really. 10mm is a big spread on an Al frame, which isn't suggested anyway, made worse by small diameter wheel which suggests short stays making it even worse.
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+1. Even if you could safely spread the dropouts that far, which you can't, the chainline would be compromised. Short answer: buy the right hub.
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Even if you cold-spread the frame, BTW-DON'T DO IT, you would still need to align the drop-outs and that's not good either. Steel with long stays a maybe, but still not a good idea.
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putting a boost mountain bike hub on a frame designed for a non-boost chainline and a 130mm axle spacing is going to end badly. don't do it. buy the correct hub.
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If you are buying another hub, why not just get the right size? It makes no sense at all to buy a 135 hub. And even if this is a freebie or something you already have, no it is not OK. That's too much to spread on an aluminum frame. I've done 126 to 130 on a steel frame but I wouldn't try on aluminum.
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OP...
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Thanks for all the feedbacks. I will go for 130mm. I also want to ask about the aluminium frame. People keep saying the frame can crack if cold bend or force spreading. Is it the welding or rear arm frame that will crack?
Sorry if I ask a lot of stupid question. 😅
Sorry if I ask a lot of stupid question. 😅
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does it matter which one cracks? Unless you have an expert welder who can heat-treat the frame, the frame (or cracked part, if it's a suspension frame) is trash once it cracks.
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Thanks for all the feedbacks. I will go for 130mm. I also want to ask about the aluminium frame. People keep saying the frame can crack if cold bend or force spreading. Is it the welding or rear arm frame that will crack?
Sorry if I ask a lot of stupid question. 😅
Sorry if I ask a lot of stupid question. 😅