Captain_Canada

Hi, I'm on a CAAD10 that has been professionally fitted to me and have been riding it for 3 years, 2000 miles a year. The frame size is correct etc (me=6'1, frame=58). I'm in good shape but not the most flexible person. The end result is about an inch of spacers used to bring up the handlebars (stem is straight).

Everything about the bike feels good.

If I were to get a new bike, would something like the Canyon Endurace make more sense, since I think my aggressive CAAD10 has been transformed partway into an endurance type fit anyways due to my spacers?

Thanks!

fa63

I don't think 25 mm / 1 inch of spacers is excessive, as long as the stem is not pointing upwards. That said, CAAD10 is known for its aggressive geometry and not really the ideal choice for those who need to have their handlebar on the high side.

Captain_Canada

Thanks fa63, the stem is not pointed upwards. Maybe I shouldn't try to fix what isn't broke, but just wondering if it is preferred to ride an endurance type bike without spacers, or an aggressive bike with spacers.

Or maybe i'm just trying to justify a purchase

datlas 

If everything feels good I would not mess with success.

fa63

If you end up in the same position, then you shouldn't notice any difference (but the human mind is a funny thing). You might notice some differences in handling and comfort with an endurance type bike because they are designed with more stability and comfort in mind.

topflightpro

If you're worried about the number of spacer, why not flip the stem up and remove spacers?

There is nothing wrong with an upturned stem.

twodownzero

25mm of spacers is nothing.

wheelreason

And infinity minus infinity equals pi (apple I think)....

Doge

Spacers are fine. In many cases a higher bar allows for a forearm parallel to the ground with hands on hoods, elbows bent that is more aero than straighter arms on lower bars. *most* rec riders that have slammed stems are not putting out the power to hold that position in the drops, or tops. It is a copy of how the pros ride. A pro extra 150W (whatever the rec vs pro difference in power is) takes weight off their bars making a lower torso fit work better and more needed at the higher speed. A rec rider with the same position is going slower and has more weight on their hands. Ideally they should be fit higher.

drewguy

Yep, or even get a stem with a higher angle.

RPK79

I'll accept an inch of spacers below the stem, but not above.

chaadster

I agree that the only issue may be one of the current aesthetic trend, which is particularly pronounced amongst those who don't know anything. I wouldn't worry about them or your bike fit.

I'll add that "endurance" frame design is about more than stem position and handlebar height, and is often about more relaxed geometry than comparable race frames. Therefore, be aware that if looking at an "endurance" frame, you'll probably be looking at a bike that feels and handles differently than your current bike (which I believe is quite racy).

As said upthread, if you've got a setup that rides as you like, don't mess with it...especially for something so silly as a fashion trend.

topflightpro

This is mostly true. The more endurance frame geometry will not only come with a taller headtube, but also a longer wheelbase to smooth out the ride. That said, bikes like the Roubaix, Synapse or Defy can still be raced, and have been at very high levels in events like Paris-Roubaix.

chaadster

Yes, “endurance” is not a legally regulated term, and so what it means is a matter of varying fact. The only way for the OP to know whether and how a new bike might compare to their CAAD is to look at the geometries. For example, I don’t know whether Specialized bills the Roubaix as an “endurance” bike, but the 150mm head tube on a size 56 seems short for the “endurance” category, and may not be taller than what the OP has. Checking, it looks like the CAAD 10 size 56 has a taller, 155mm head tube. So, don’t rely on category tags; look at the numbers.

fa63

This is a good example of why it is better to look at stack and reach to compare geometry, instead of head tube length and top tube length. For instance, if you look at the stack and reach numbers, you can see that the 56cm Roubaix is significantly taller than the Cannondale (611mm vs. 560mm) and much shorter reach (381mm vs. 394mm). So the Roubaix indeed has "endurance" geometry; in fact it is one of the frames with the highest stack-to-reach ratio across the size range:

carlos danger

doesn't make any difference imo as long as the handlebar is in the same relative place. spacers exist for a reason, and so do stems in different lenghts, and angles, handlebar widths etc etc. its so you can make the bike fit you good.

topflightpro

I was agreeing with you. But there is an ongoing theme in the forum that a bike is either a "race" bike or an "endurance" bike. But even bikes that we deem "endurance" bikes can be raced.

chaadster

Great info, and to the point that you’ve got to look at the numbers, especially with the trend to fit bigger tires and having “air space” around the tires being enabled by disc brakes and pushing up fork lengths up.

The other thing is that Specialized doesn’t really call Roubaix an “endurance” bike, so another reminder to be careful with the category tags.

chaadster

Oh, for sure; I didn’t mean to sound contrary, I only wanted to elaborate on our shared perspective.

nycphotography

I run 2cm above the stem... because when I eventually sell the bike, the buyer has a reasonable chance of actually using it, increasing my chances of actually selling it.

RPK79

I figure my wife won't sell them for what they're worth anyway.

redlude97

eh, i don't buy my bikes thinking of resale. All my bikes get chopped down. 5mm adjustment for throughout the season, move the stem up in spring, move the stem down by summer. I've sold a few bikes this way too, not a problem IME

WhyFi

Some set-ups specifically warn against having too tall of a periscope.

Sy Reene

Nah.. you should want your bike to go to a good home, not a dentist.

Bah Humbug

I wouldn't rush out to buy a frame to get rid of the spacers, but if I were to be buying a new frame anyway I'd probably get one that fitted my dimensions more closely. Especially if the fit has been stable for 6000 miles and you're thus confident in it.