Tubular tire info & recommendation needed
#1
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Tubular tire info & recommendation needed
I'm in the process of readying my Galmozzi criterium race bike (I last raced it in 1976) for casual training/possible sale and refreshing my memory on what I have and need. After reviewing Sheldon Brown's website, I am just not confident in making an educated decision. I'm interested in reconfirming what I have and need in terms wheel size and tires, respectively. I have Weinman wood-filled tubular wheels from a 1968 Schwinn Paramount which are advertised in the 1968 catalog as having 27" x 1 1/4 road racing tires, but Sheldon states "THERE IS ACTUALLY NO SUCH THING AS A "27 INCH" TUBULAR" and "All full-size tubulars fit all full-size tubular rims", thus the confusion. Since the Schwinn ad is not specific, it could be referring to a clincher tire, but who knows.
My questions:
1) What is my wheel size?
2) What diameter tubular tires am I searching for?
3) What exact terminology should I look for and avoid in terms of sizing?
3) If intending to spend $100 or less per tire, what recommendations, and why, should I be considering for casual training/riding?
4) What rim cement should I be considering? In the past I used Clement over Tubasti since Tubasti didn't seem to hold in corners as well.
My questions:
1) What is my wheel size?
2) What diameter tubular tires am I searching for?
3) What exact terminology should I look for and avoid in terms of sizing?
3) If intending to spend $100 or less per tire, what recommendations, and why, should I be considering for casual training/riding?
4) What rim cement should I be considering? In the past I used Clement over Tubasti since Tubasti didn't seem to hold in corners as well.
#2
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I'm in the process of readying my Galmozzi criterium race bike (I last raced it in 1976) for casual training/possible sale and refreshing my memory on what I have and need. After reviewing Sheldon Brown's website, I am just not confident in making an educated decision. I'm interested in reconfirming what I have and need in terms wheel size and tires, respectively. I have Weinman wood-filled tubular wheels from a 1968 Schwinn Paramount which are advertised in the 1968 catalog as having 27" x 1 1/4 road racing tires, but Sheldon states "THERE IS ACTUALLY NO SUCH THING AS A "27 INCH" TUBULAR" and "All full-size tubulars fit all full-size tubular rims", thus the confusion. Since the Schwinn ad is not specific, it could be referring to a clincher tire, but who knows.
My questions:
1) What is my wheel size?
2) What diameter tubular tires am I searching for?
3) What exact terminology should I look for and avoid in terms of sizing?
3) If intending to spend $100 or less per tire, what recommendations, and why, should I be considering for casual training/riding?
4) What rim cement should I be considering? In the past I used Clement over Tubasti since Tubasti didn't seem to hold in corners as well.
My questions:
1) What is my wheel size?
2) What diameter tubular tires am I searching for?
3) What exact terminology should I look for and avoid in terms of sizing?
3) If intending to spend $100 or less per tire, what recommendations, and why, should I be considering for casual training/riding?
4) What rim cement should I be considering? In the past I used Clement over Tubasti since Tubasti didn't seem to hold in corners as well.
Tubulars/ rims are " 28" " but frequently mislabeled by sellers. They haven't changed size so whatever tubular will fit your rims (aside from 650b).
For low commitment, I'd go with these (three so you'll have a spare)
tubular tire sewup tire Servizio Corse $19.95 tubular tires at Yellow Jersey; possibly the Best Value Tubular In America for 2018!
I like Continental Sprinter for sturdyness & reasonable performance. > $40 if you shop.
This is the popular rim cement but whatever you come across will be fine. You'll of course have to scrape the old glue off.
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...ement-30g-tube
Post a pic when you get it running!
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You need to be aware of what the numbers refer to.
Most of the old rim and tire markings refer to the "working" diameter of the wheel - the diameter of the mounted and inflated tire.
So a skinny tubular might well end up at about 27" x 1 1/4, even if it's sitting on a supposedly 28" or 700C rim.
This confusing sizing system is still being upheld today, with 29ers and 27.5".
Even the 700 in 700C, originally referred to the diameter of the mounted and inflated tire in millimeters.
A clearer method is to refer to the rim and tire size separately.
As with 700C and (some) 28" and the 29ers having a 622 mm Bead Seat Diameter.
Ignoring the extremes of wide/narrow, all rims that are 622 mm BSD can take all tires that are 622 BSD.
Note that "can take" does not guarantee that they're a good match.
And yeah, admitttedly I'm not the most frequent tubular user.
But all I have handled have interchanged with 700C wheels with no or very minor adjustments of brake pads.
A "true" 27" x 1 1/4 or 27" x 1 1/8 would have a 630 mm BSD, and would require an obvious reset of brake pads when interchanged with a 700C wheel.
As a side note, it's possible to fit a 700C tubular to a 27" x 1 1/4 or 27" x 1 1/8 (630) mm clincher if so desired.
I used it some to be able to run high pressures on a hookless rim.
Apart from that, I can't really see where it'd make sense.
Most of the old rim and tire markings refer to the "working" diameter of the wheel - the diameter of the mounted and inflated tire.
So a skinny tubular might well end up at about 27" x 1 1/4, even if it's sitting on a supposedly 28" or 700C rim.
This confusing sizing system is still being upheld today, with 29ers and 27.5".
Even the 700 in 700C, originally referred to the diameter of the mounted and inflated tire in millimeters.
A clearer method is to refer to the rim and tire size separately.
As with 700C and (some) 28" and the 29ers having a 622 mm Bead Seat Diameter.
Ignoring the extremes of wide/narrow, all rims that are 622 mm BSD can take all tires that are 622 BSD.
Note that "can take" does not guarantee that they're a good match.
And yeah, admitttedly I'm not the most frequent tubular user.
But all I have handled have interchanged with 700C wheels with no or very minor adjustments of brake pads.
A "true" 27" x 1 1/4 or 27" x 1 1/8 would have a 630 mm BSD, and would require an obvious reset of brake pads when interchanged with a 700C wheel.
As a side note, it's possible to fit a 700C tubular to a 27" x 1 1/4 or 27" x 1 1/8 (630) mm clincher if so desired.
I used it some to be able to run high pressures on a hookless rim.
Apart from that, I can't really see where it'd make sense.
#4
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The tubular standard was created in July 1892 by John Palmer and B.F. Goodrich. It has never varied. Oldest standard in the sport. Still known in Italy as 28" Palmer.
Do not pay $100 for a tubular. Consistent low prices for better quality tubulars from probikekit and Merlin Cycles(UK). I just scored 4 silk tubulars for $100. That was an unusual buy, with patience you can do well too.
The Weinmann wood fills were made in 1966 at what had been the Scheeren workshop in Berlin. Basically a heavier Scheeren. Simply one of the best rims ever. Enjoy.
Do not pay $100 for a tubular. Consistent low prices for better quality tubulars from probikekit and Merlin Cycles(UK). I just scored 4 silk tubulars for $100. That was an unusual buy, with patience you can do well too.
The Weinmann wood fills were made in 1966 at what had been the Scheeren workshop in Berlin. Basically a heavier Scheeren. Simply one of the best rims ever. Enjoy.
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Modern casings and compounds bring advantages that far exceed the life of silk casings.... but yeah I still rode silk on the track until last year.
There’s a ton of options for tires out there and while people are less at ease with riding and using tubulars the technology is stellar. You can go the cheap ass route and ride cheap ass tubulars or you can ride something decent that you can find for around the same price as most popular clinchers and have the ability to run sealant in them and have it work. Maxxis, Donnelly come to mind.
Wider widths are also now commonplace across the board.
Yes all road tubulars are “28” “ but there were some other standards along the way. I have been called many times for oddball rim standards or tires for obscure kids track from back in the day. *shrug*
There’s a ton of options for tires out there and while people are less at ease with riding and using tubulars the technology is stellar. You can go the cheap ass route and ride cheap ass tubulars or you can ride something decent that you can find for around the same price as most popular clinchers and have the ability to run sealant in them and have it work. Maxxis, Donnelly come to mind.
Wider widths are also now commonplace across the board.
Yes all road tubulars are “28” “ but there were some other standards along the way. I have been called many times for oddball rim standards or tires for obscure kids track from back in the day. *shrug*
#7
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All I can tell you is they are Vittorias special ordered for Trek-Segafredo (or that is what seller told me) and they arrived too wide for team to want them. Looking at them and holding them they feel much more like tubulars of the past than current production. Will find out if they flat like tubulars of past or survive like the new ones do. I've not been on silk for 35 years.
The most usual non-28" tubular sizes are 26" Palmer, brake track equivalent to 571 clinchers, and 24" Palmer, equivalent to 520 clinchers. Neither of these would ever be confused for normal standard tires. There have been others. It is basically cutting and stitching, no need for a tire mold, so when someone wants a special it can be done.
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You need to be aware of what the numbers refer to.
Most of the old rim and tire markings refer to the "working" diameter of the wheel - the diameter of the mounted and inflated tire.
So a skinny tubular might well end up at about 27" x 1 1/4, even if it's sitting on a supposedly 28" or 700C rim.
This confusing sizing system is still being upheld today, with 29ers and 27.5".
Even the 700 in 700C, originally referred to the diameter of the mounted and inflated tire in millimeters.
A clearer method is to refer to the rim and tire size separately.
As with 700C and (some) 28" and the 29ers having a 622 mm Bead Seat Diameter.
Ignoring the extremes of wide/narrow, all rims that are 622 mm BSD can take all tires that are 622 BSD.
Note that "can take" does not guarantee that they're a good match.
And yeah, admitttedly I'm not the most frequent tubular user.
But all I have handled have interchanged with 700C wheels with no or very minor adjustments of brake pads.
A "true" 27" x 1 1/4 or 27" x 1 1/8 would have a 630 mm BSD, and would require an obvious reset of brake pads when interchanged with a 700C wheel.
As a side note, it's possible to fit a 700C tubular to a 27" x 1 1/4 or 27" x 1 1/8 (630) mm clincher if so desired.
I used it some to be able to run high pressures on a hookless rim.
Apart from that, I can't really see where it'd make sense.
Most of the old rim and tire markings refer to the "working" diameter of the wheel - the diameter of the mounted and inflated tire.
So a skinny tubular might well end up at about 27" x 1 1/4, even if it's sitting on a supposedly 28" or 700C rim.
This confusing sizing system is still being upheld today, with 29ers and 27.5".
Even the 700 in 700C, originally referred to the diameter of the mounted and inflated tire in millimeters.
A clearer method is to refer to the rim and tire size separately.
As with 700C and (some) 28" and the 29ers having a 622 mm Bead Seat Diameter.
Ignoring the extremes of wide/narrow, all rims that are 622 mm BSD can take all tires that are 622 BSD.
Note that "can take" does not guarantee that they're a good match.
And yeah, admitttedly I'm not the most frequent tubular user.
But all I have handled have interchanged with 700C wheels with no or very minor adjustments of brake pads.
A "true" 27" x 1 1/4 or 27" x 1 1/8 would have a 630 mm BSD, and would require an obvious reset of brake pads when interchanged with a 700C wheel.
As a side note, it's possible to fit a 700C tubular to a 27" x 1 1/4 or 27" x 1 1/8 (630) mm clincher if so desired.
I used it some to be able to run high pressures on a hookless rim.
Apart from that, I can't really see where it'd make sense.
Your post muddies the waters in an all too common way.
700c refers to a certain bead seat diameter. Since tubulars do not have a bead, tubular rims do not have a bead seat and cannot be 700c.
It's true that a tubular tire can be put on a clincher rim- why it's good to have a tubular rider in your group, as their spare tire can get you home if your tire is slashed,
but even I would not start a ride like that.