Road bike advice for $2k -- Frame question
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Road bike advice for $2k -- Frame question
Seriously thinking about upgrading from a Specialized Sirrus Comp hybrid to an endurance road bike for around $2k +/-. I typically ride 30-50 miles at a time, on paved roads and bike paths in Southern Cal.
Right now, I'm trying to get the 10,000 foot view on frame technology, design and materials from the different brands, since the frame is the one thing I cannot change later on. Ultimately, I'm going to ride many bikes, and check for comfort, fit and so on. But first I'd like to have a basic understanding of what do look for in terms of a quality frame before I head off to the LBS to see and ride the bikes.
So, I'd appreciate whatever anyone cares of share, or maybe a link to an insightful article on the topic.
Thank you,
Robert
Right now, I'm trying to get the 10,000 foot view on frame technology, design and materials from the different brands, since the frame is the one thing I cannot change later on. Ultimately, I'm going to ride many bikes, and check for comfort, fit and so on. But first I'd like to have a basic understanding of what do look for in terms of a quality frame before I head off to the LBS to see and ride the bikes.
So, I'd appreciate whatever anyone cares of share, or maybe a link to an insightful article on the topic.
Thank you,
Robert
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The argument for buying an aluminum-frame road bike for the same price as a low-end carbon-frame road bike: https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/...oy-bike-51454/
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At the $2000 price point there really isn't a lot of technological differentiation going on. Carbon bikes are going to be decent Asian made frames, blends of name brand parts with off brand brakes, bars and wheels.
Don't get me wrong - we're talking about quite decent riding bikes of very good quality. But they are generally going to be more alike than different. I would expect more brand differentiation closer to $3000.
I would look at less common brands for values, as well as closeouts. Jamis, Kestrel, Canyon, etc. However, sometimes big brands will also do a great job at this price point.
Don't get me wrong - we're talking about quite decent riding bikes of very good quality. But they are generally going to be more alike than different. I would expect more brand differentiation closer to $3000.
I would look at less common brands for values, as well as closeouts. Jamis, Kestrel, Canyon, etc. However, sometimes big brands will also do a great job at this price point.
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Thanks, Johnny99 and Kontact. How do I assess the quality of frame, say a Trek, Specialized or any of the half-dozen bike manufacturers I might see at the LBS? I'm not going to be able to really understand much in a 10-15 minute ride.
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Generally, the quality issues are more likely to pop up with the cutting edge bikes than the rank and file machines. I would ask the mechanics if they have any issues with any model you're looking at, and often they will level with you if the shop has more than one option. And look for online reviews zeroing in on issues rather than generalities.
Honestly, the main things that I have seen as quality problems aren't frames that warped or break, but little detail problems, like cable stops and derailleur hangers. Stuff that is hard to see and difficult to fix. This can pop up at any price point, but more basic bikes generally have fewer of them.
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Nice post and article but ...
The author of the article notes Scott CR1 set the standard for light weight CF bikes. That bike can be found for $2000. Retail is about $2400.
And here is the problem. There #are# HQ CF bikes for $2000 not just no name Chinese frames.
And here is the problem. There #are# HQ CF bikes for $2000 not just no name Chinese frames.
The argument for buying an aluminum-frame road bike for the same price as a low-end carbon-frame road bike: https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/...oy-bike-51454/
#7
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You mention that "the frame is the one thing you can't change later on", but I think it's generally a good idea to count on keeping bikes relatively stock because manufacturers buy at such lower prices than even dealers. For example, don't plan on buying a more expensive drivetrain, etc. Touch points (handlebars, saddle) are a bit of an exception, because getting exactly what you prefer can matter a ton here.
Also, consider a bike with options for tire clearance. Bikes with caliper brakes should clear 28mm tires, and some clear 32mm. A bike with discs really ought to clear 35s in my opinion. Pretty much all differences in frame compliance are obliterated in the difference between, say, a 25mm tire and a 32mm tire. Within reason wider tires are more comfortable, provide better traction, and lower rolling resistance with the only penalties being weight, and perhaps a bit of aerodynamic drag. Might you want fenders so your bike is more enjoyable to ride during or after a storm? Its worth considering, and while actual nice fenders may be unhip (or very hip) in some circles, their total effect on speed is not huge.
Focus on fit, that you like the complete build spec of the bike, the total value of any service support from the shop, and your general sense of the shop's quality and support. Consider if the stock gearing setup of the bike works for you. Try to check our Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo shifters--and try to go with your preference.
In the endurance category there are some frame compliance features on some bikes that are not necessarily subtle. Do go ahead and try out a bunch of bikes and do let your subjective experience have weight. It is useful to ask for the tires to be set to a consistent pressure to make comparisons fair--I'd ask for something highish (100psi) to potentially accentuate the frame's compliance or lack thereof.
I'd personally recommend against carbon on bikes that MSRP near $2000. There absolutely are deals on very nice carbon bikes around this price but it's not the norm. In this category I'd say the primary feature of carbon is that it is good at absorbing high frequency vibration, and some designs rely on it to get a lot of compliance out of the frame. Nice aluminum frames are often lighter than entry level carbon frames, and some have rather good compliance, with perhaps a bit more high frequency vibration. Steel is also a great material for most riders--the weight penalty may be meaningful in a race, but will not make significant changes to your speed riding solo, or change what kind of people you can keep up with on group rides. Steel bikes are typically comfortable, classy looking, and much less likely to be accidentally damaged.
Also, consider a bike with options for tire clearance. Bikes with caliper brakes should clear 28mm tires, and some clear 32mm. A bike with discs really ought to clear 35s in my opinion. Pretty much all differences in frame compliance are obliterated in the difference between, say, a 25mm tire and a 32mm tire. Within reason wider tires are more comfortable, provide better traction, and lower rolling resistance with the only penalties being weight, and perhaps a bit of aerodynamic drag. Might you want fenders so your bike is more enjoyable to ride during or after a storm? Its worth considering, and while actual nice fenders may be unhip (or very hip) in some circles, their total effect on speed is not huge.
Focus on fit, that you like the complete build spec of the bike, the total value of any service support from the shop, and your general sense of the shop's quality and support. Consider if the stock gearing setup of the bike works for you. Try to check our Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo shifters--and try to go with your preference.
In the endurance category there are some frame compliance features on some bikes that are not necessarily subtle. Do go ahead and try out a bunch of bikes and do let your subjective experience have weight. It is useful to ask for the tires to be set to a consistent pressure to make comparisons fair--I'd ask for something highish (100psi) to potentially accentuate the frame's compliance or lack thereof.
I'd personally recommend against carbon on bikes that MSRP near $2000. There absolutely are deals on very nice carbon bikes around this price but it's not the norm. In this category I'd say the primary feature of carbon is that it is good at absorbing high frequency vibration, and some designs rely on it to get a lot of compliance out of the frame. Nice aluminum frames are often lighter than entry level carbon frames, and some have rather good compliance, with perhaps a bit more high frequency vibration. Steel is also a great material for most riders--the weight penalty may be meaningful in a race, but will not make significant changes to your speed riding solo, or change what kind of people you can keep up with on group rides. Steel bikes are typically comfortable, classy looking, and much less likely to be accidentally damaged.
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I was just looking at the Performance website. You can buy a closeout $5000 Fuji carbon with all Dura Ace 9000 for $1999, and some Ultegra bikes are $1200 for all carbon.
So there are higher end bikes out there for dirt cheap.
So there are higher end bikes out there for dirt cheap.
#9
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Really I'm just jealous though.
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The argument for buying an aluminum-frame road bike for the same price as a low-end carbon-frame road bike: https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/...oy-bike-51454/
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Find the geometry you like and then search out the best deal. Brands are about personal preference, not so much about quality. Some brands have longer warranties but in the end there is very little frame failure.
For $2k you will get a very nice bike. Bikes in the same price range are very competitive with each other throughout the brands. A $2k Trek will be very similar in terms of parts and quality to a $2k Specialized.
It's a very subjective experience. Which bike/brand you go with has very little to do with quality. Your fit and comfort on bike is far more important to your overall bike experience than the brand. Again, they are all quality frames and they all house essentially the same drive trains. Some would tell you the lbs you choose is the better decision as they will help with comfort and fit.
To sum up my reply--there are far more issues with ill fitting bikes than there are frame quality issues. A good shop will put you in a good bike that fits well.
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You at be over thinking things a little. While there are slight differences in geometry the quality of all the frames is excellent. I am referring to the major brands of course. (Trek, Cannondale, Giant, Specialized, Kona, Scott, and many others)
Find the geometry you like and then search out the best deal. Brands are about personal preference, not so much about quality. Some brands have longer warranties but in the end there is very little frame failure.
For $2k you will get a very nice bike. Bikes in the same price range are very competitive with each other throughout the brands. A $2k Trek will be very similar in terms of parts and quality to a $2k Specialized.
It's a very subjective experience. Which bike/brand you go with has very little to do with quality. Your fit and comfort on bike is far more important to your overall bike experience than the brand. Again, they are all quality frames and they all house essentially the same drive trains. Some would tell you the lbs you choose is the better decision as they will help with comfort and fit.
To sum up my reply--there are far more issues with ill fitting bikes than there are frame quality issues. A good shop will put you in a good bike that fits well.
Find the geometry you like and then search out the best deal. Brands are about personal preference, not so much about quality. Some brands have longer warranties but in the end there is very little frame failure.
For $2k you will get a very nice bike. Bikes in the same price range are very competitive with each other throughout the brands. A $2k Trek will be very similar in terms of parts and quality to a $2k Specialized.
It's a very subjective experience. Which bike/brand you go with has very little to do with quality. Your fit and comfort on bike is far more important to your overall bike experience than the brand. Again, they are all quality frames and they all house essentially the same drive trains. Some would tell you the lbs you choose is the better decision as they will help with comfort and fit.
To sum up my reply--there are far more issues with ill fitting bikes than there are frame quality issues. A good shop will put you in a good bike that fits well.
#13
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Check out the Canyon Endurace CF SL Disc!
Carbon, full 105, Disc Brakes, solid DT Swiss carbon, solid wheels and good tires. $1,999
https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/en...cf-sl-disc-7-0
Carbon, full 105, Disc Brakes, solid DT Swiss carbon, solid wheels and good tires. $1,999
https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/en...cf-sl-disc-7-0
Last edited by Esthetic; 01-07-18 at 09:19 AM.
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True surprised he didnt memtion weight and specific examples. My CAAD12 frame is under 1000 grams.
Originally Posted by WhyFi;2f0095125
There's an amazing lack of substance in that "article." It reads like a brain fart intended to stir up a comments section.
#16
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The full carbon road bike I’m riding now is the best riding bike I’ve ever owned. I haven’t ridden titanium yet but will in a few weeks
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After doing a ton of reading, I finally had a chance to take two bikes out for brief test rides.
First I rode the Cannondale CAAD12 Ultegra. Love the feel of the bike in my hands and the emotional connection. But the ride experience was unusual, especially in the steering, which felt a little twitchy. Reminded me of feeling you get when driving a Porsche Boxter -- firm and uncompromising. I know it's a race bike and my needs are primarily for endurance riding. I was attracted to the CAAD12 idea for all the reviews I've read and the value proposition that the bike offers. Wish the same bike was available with endurance geometry. Not sure it wouldn't tire me out on long rides. Will undoubtedly ride again.
Then rode the Trek Domaine SL5. Much smoother ride. Easier handling and easier to adjust to. But, it didn't feel like twice the bike compared to my Specialized Sirus Comp hybrid. Could ride this bike all day, but didn't have the same emotional connection.
Thoughts, comments and suggestions would be appreciated.
First I rode the Cannondale CAAD12 Ultegra. Love the feel of the bike in my hands and the emotional connection. But the ride experience was unusual, especially in the steering, which felt a little twitchy. Reminded me of feeling you get when driving a Porsche Boxter -- firm and uncompromising. I know it's a race bike and my needs are primarily for endurance riding. I was attracted to the CAAD12 idea for all the reviews I've read and the value proposition that the bike offers. Wish the same bike was available with endurance geometry. Not sure it wouldn't tire me out on long rides. Will undoubtedly ride again.
Then rode the Trek Domaine SL5. Much smoother ride. Easier handling and easier to adjust to. But, it didn't feel like twice the bike compared to my Specialized Sirus Comp hybrid. Could ride this bike all day, but didn't have the same emotional connection.
Thoughts, comments and suggestions would be appreciated.
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You want a low-trail endurance geometry. What bike offers this?
#20
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Robert a have u tried the cannondale synapse its very similar to the card 12 but more on the insurance side also a cabon fiber bike can get a full 105 or even ultegra model for under 2 k
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Not yet, but was thinking about it, though it's carbon, not alu. Just looking at the Cannondale website and was curious about the SRAM groupset at this price point. There's only one front chainring.
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#24
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Take a look at some of the custom frame builders like Stinner and Rock Lobster.