SOLID, Inexpensive, low rattle, back of vehicle, bike rack
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SOLID, Inexpensive, low rattle, back of vehicle, bike rack
I'm 67 and just getting ready to start riding again. I will be needing an inexpensive rack until I'm sure that I'm going to stick with bike riding. I'd sure like to get some advice from some of you that have gone through the same thing, and know what the best bang for the buck is. Thanks for the help.
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I've had this Rhode Gear rack for years. I paid $15 for it at Goodwill. I only use it to haul more than one bike at a time. By myself I prefer to lay it down and lock it in the rear hatch. Comes in handy for SAG support though. Look up Rhode Gear Pro on Amazon, $59 new, carries 3 bikes. Mine is solid, easy on and off. If you want a hitch mount, check out Thule, several others for more $$$. Mine is useable either on a hatch back, or sedan with trunk.
Sorry for the poor picture quality, it's all I could find.
Sorry for the poor picture quality, it's all I could find.
Last edited by Slightspeed; 02-17-19 at 10:12 PM.
#3
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I have an Allen 2 bike model. Like $40 at Walmart or Amazon. I put it on my car over 2 years ago and haven't taken it off once since. Used it maybe 200 times so far. I don't think I even had to tweak it or adjust anything on it in over a year. I have a similar style Thule on another car I got for a $1 at an auction. I can see it is better in ways and I like the rubber straps but it was probably 5x the price when new. In the end it does the same thing.
https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Deluxe-2-Bike-Trunk/dp/B00TRTSAZM
https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Sports-Deluxe-2-Bike-Trunk/dp/B00TRTSAZM
Last edited by u235; 02-17-19 at 10:03 PM.
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Allen two bike paid $20 when it was on sale.
i see them at the goodwill all the time for $10-$15 max. Go to the better neighborhood for quality stuff.
i see them at the goodwill all the time for $10-$15 max. Go to the better neighborhood for quality stuff.
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#7
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Amazon four bike rack that slides into the hitch. I've tightened everything with wrenches, the vibration of the road still makes the wheel holders and the hold downs move. Lost one bike off the back a year ago.......
Don't buy cheap crap ....
Don't buy cheap crap ....
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I use this to tighten up anything in my 2" hitch receiver. It will prevent anything in the reciever from rattling.
Get it from Amazon. Order here
Get it from Amazon. Order here
Last edited by Tanstaafl; 02-26-19 at 10:43 PM.
#9
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For SOLID, I don't think you can do better than a hitch rack, but of course that entails the expense of buying and possibly paying someone to install the hitch. I wanted something that I could throw on the car by myself in a few minutes but was solid enough for highway travel.
But a good quality trunk rack is fine for local travel.
But a good quality trunk rack is fine for local travel.
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Since no one has mentioned it yet, put the bike in your trunk or even the back set covered with an old sheet or blanket or whatever. likely have to take off the front wheel.
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Saris Bones. Not the cheapest but extremely versatile and sturdy. Made to fit nearly everything. Find 'em used on CL for a reasonable price. They also make a 2-bike version with one upper leg.
#13
SuperGimp
Look on craigs list for a yakima or thule hitch rack (I assume your car has a hitch receiver). Should be loads available and as noted above there are solutions to prevent hitch racks from rattling.
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My advice given the car you own is to not spend any money on a rack of any kind, at least until you know how much you will enjoy riding. Simply put your rear seats down and put your bike inside the car. I own a station wagon (Golf Sportswagen) and even though I have a hitch rack I almost never use it unless I am carrying a couple of muddy mountain bikes. I have room inside for 2 road bikes if need be. Your bike is much safer inside the car
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You're where I was when I got a bike a few years ago. I've ridden it only occasionally since. My recommendation is a Thule. Not the cheapest, but who cares about money anyway.
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On something like the LX 570, I'd go with a hitch-mount rack.
In this area (Atlanta, GA), used quality hitch-mount racks are plentiful and cheap. Check Craigslist and pay close attention to the method of retention used to keep the bike on the rack. If it's worn or missing, pass on that particular rack unless it's dirt cheap or damn near free. Replacement parts are usually available for most brand name racks, but it's just an unnecessary hassle.
Any wobble in the rack itself can typically be taken care of with the device shown above in post #8
Last edited by stasher1; 02-23-19 at 10:11 AM.
#17
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Get a hitch receiver and a 1up rack.... $200 for the receiver installed, and $300 or so for the rack.
all the other cheaper solutions will scratch up your car, be a hassle to use and will work invariably well or bad on FS, fatbikes and other odd-frame or tire bikes. Also the front wheel will flop into your car. all those cheap solutions only work if you buy used and have a car you don't car about. You'll use one of those cheap solutions, and then go the above expensive route = no savings at all and a possibly scratched car and bike.
all the other cheaper solutions will scratch up your car, be a hassle to use and will work invariably well or bad on FS, fatbikes and other odd-frame or tire bikes. Also the front wheel will flop into your car. all those cheap solutions only work if you buy used and have a car you don't car about. You'll use one of those cheap solutions, and then go the above expensive route = no savings at all and a possibly scratched car and bike.
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Simply commit to riding again. It's good for your health all around. Also, focus on the fun aspect of riding. No need to kit up in full lycra for every ride, or turn every ride into a workout. Embrace the inner-child.
Target a 2-inch hitch-mount system. If you don't already have a hitch, i bought my Curt for $132.95, free shipping/no tax from e-trailer, installed myself in about half an hour. Find a friend to help.
I went with a Kuat Transfer 2 for about $290. Then I waited for a 20% off sale from REI. Mounted on my Nissan Xterra, i am not aware of any rattling at all. I leave the rack on all the time, and keep my bike in my living room, so that it's always in sight/in mind, making easy to grab and go for a ride. The Kuat held two 27.5 plus-sized tire, long hardtail MTBs well, and now our gravel bikes. It holds the bike by the wheels, but does not play well, with bikes with fenders or front racks. The holding arm needs to tighten up against the front tire. But a "tray-mounted" racks is the way to go. I had a hanging style 4-bike Thule. Good quality, but went with the tray-mount system. so much easier and less hassle. Sold the Thule on CL for $125.
I had a Hollywood Racks trunk mount rack once. Never really felt secure, but it worked. I got tired of all the straps, and didn't work well with sloping toptubes, eventually giving it to a buddy, but probably found it on craigslist for $50.
eric/fresno, ca.
Target a 2-inch hitch-mount system. If you don't already have a hitch, i bought my Curt for $132.95, free shipping/no tax from e-trailer, installed myself in about half an hour. Find a friend to help.
I went with a Kuat Transfer 2 for about $290. Then I waited for a 20% off sale from REI. Mounted on my Nissan Xterra, i am not aware of any rattling at all. I leave the rack on all the time, and keep my bike in my living room, so that it's always in sight/in mind, making easy to grab and go for a ride. The Kuat held two 27.5 plus-sized tire, long hardtail MTBs well, and now our gravel bikes. It holds the bike by the wheels, but does not play well, with bikes with fenders or front racks. The holding arm needs to tighten up against the front tire. But a "tray-mounted" racks is the way to go. I had a hanging style 4-bike Thule. Good quality, but went with the tray-mount system. so much easier and less hassle. Sold the Thule on CL for $125.
I had a Hollywood Racks trunk mount rack once. Never really felt secure, but it worked. I got tired of all the straps, and didn't work well with sloping toptubes, eventually giving it to a buddy, but probably found it on craigslist for $50.
eric/fresno, ca.
Last edited by ericzamora; 02-23-19 at 12:39 PM.
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We used a Hollywood rack we picked up for 5 dollars at a yard sale for a couple years until we upgraded.
On one trip we used that rack to take our tandem from Oregon to Arizona and back with no issues.
Really the biggest issue for us is with our car I felt we needed to take both wheels off the tandem because its so long and I didn't want to mess with that anymore.
Don,
On one trip we used that rack to take our tandem from Oregon to Arizona and back with no issues.
Really the biggest issue for us is with our car I felt we needed to take both wheels off the tandem because its so long and I didn't want to mess with that anymore.
Don,
#20
Senior Member
Get a hitch receiver and a 1up rack.... $200 for the receiver installed, and $300 or so for the rack.
all the other cheaper solutions will scratch up your car, be a hassle to use and will work invariably well or bad on FS, fatbikes and other odd-frame or tire bikes. Also the front wheel will flop into your car. all those cheap solutions only work if you buy used and have a car you don't car about. You'll use one of those cheap solutions, and then go the above expensive route = no savings at all and a possibly scratched car and bike.
all the other cheaper solutions will scratch up your car, be a hassle to use and will work invariably well or bad on FS, fatbikes and other odd-frame or tire bikes. Also the front wheel will flop into your car. all those cheap solutions only work if you buy used and have a car you don't car about. You'll use one of those cheap solutions, and then go the above expensive route = no savings at all and a possibly scratched car and bike.
I also have a hitch mount I use on my other car. Not because it is safer or easier or quicker or more stable but I didn't care to take the strap mount off the other car, I already have the tow package because I needed it for an actual trailer and I didn't want to risk any scratches to my "new" car. On the flip side, I only take that on and off when I need it because it is big and heavy and gets in the way and that process itself takes MUCH longer and the time is on top any bike mounting time. If that was my primary bike carrier 3-4x a week, I'd compromise and just leave it installed until I need to tow something.
Last edited by u235; 02-24-19 at 10:30 AM.
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I think you are doing the right think looking at a trunk rack to get in the game inexpensively.
However, do get a decent one with good cradles like a Thule or the Saris shown earlier.
Don’t get sucked into thinking you must have a hitch rack and expensive rack like a 1UP (which will run $320 for a single bike tray, $560+ for a double, and none of that includes the hitch.
You can keep the front wheel from flopping around on a trunk rack by bungeeing the front wheel to the downtube of the bike.
Nicer hitch racks or roof rack are great if you use them a lot, but plenty of folks used trunk racks and are perfectly happy with them.
However, do get a decent one with good cradles like a Thule or the Saris shown earlier.
Don’t get sucked into thinking you must have a hitch rack and expensive rack like a 1UP (which will run $320 for a single bike tray, $560+ for a double, and none of that includes the hitch.
You can keep the front wheel from flopping around on a trunk rack by bungeeing the front wheel to the downtube of the bike.
Nicer hitch racks or roof rack are great if you use them a lot, but plenty of folks used trunk racks and are perfectly happy with them.
#22
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You should also consider how easy it is to use the trunk/hatch of your car and how easy it is to take off the rack if not needed. Those cheap strap-on racks basically make the trunk unusable.
If you go the cheap route, get a really cheap used one to lose the least money before you move to a better rack.
If you go the cheap route, get a really cheap used one to lose the least money before you move to a better rack.
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For me, security was also a concern. I drive a full-sized truck, so I simply bolted a strip of uni-strut to the front wall of the bed and mounted three Yakima fork mounts with Delta locking skewers. The front wheels go in the back seat of the truck.
I also have a hitch-mount rack that I use when I don't feel like climbing in/out of the bed of the truck. It uses a clamshell type of clamp that secures the bike(s) by the top tube, and has provisions for padlocks.
With either of these in place, I can feel relatively safe stopping on my way home to pick up a couple of items at the grocery store. I know that neither option will stop a dedicated thief, but they'll need more than a pocket knife.
I also have a hitch-mount rack that I use when I don't feel like climbing in/out of the bed of the truck. It uses a clamshell type of clamp that secures the bike(s) by the top tube, and has provisions for padlocks.
With either of these in place, I can feel relatively safe stopping on my way home to pick up a couple of items at the grocery store. I know that neither option will stop a dedicated thief, but they'll need more than a pocket knife.
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Thanks to all of you for the great input. After writing the post, I realized that I do have a Hitch already installed. Now I know what companies are making good racks, etc.. Thanks again.