Bought a bigass torque wrench
#1
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Bought a bigass torque wrench
After years of being an amateur mechanic with my bike, I bought a torque wrench at Harbor Freight, a $20 3/8" drive click type one with a range of 5ft-lbs to 45+. That would be in the range of most bike components with 1 ft-lb = 1.3xxx nm. I've started going around my bike tightening things to spec and I'm finding that nothing has been right. What started me on this was the click-click-click I get from rotation of the crank, in any gear, on any chainring. I've so far done the pedals to no avail, and now the crank bolt on my FSA SLK. I'll check this out in a bit. I'm doing one thing at a time as I want to know what the offending part is. I'm applying grease to all threads as I go. I'm going to replace the chainring bolts as they are a little stripped from using a hex key instead of a torx on them, not realizing they were torx, as the next thing. Also greasing all contact points such as chainring to spider. After doing the chainring bolts, if I still have a problem I'll re-assess the BB, maybe it is a bad bearing, although I'm not sure how to service a Mega-Exo BB. I bought a new large chainring with the bolts too, as it is already 12 years old. It can't hurt even if it doesn't really help. Chain is relatively new and I've kept it clean and lubed, and that's why the noise bothers me so much, the chain is quiet.
What surprised me is how little pressure it takes to reach the desired torque, but this thing is so much bigger than any hex wrench and, well, applies a lot of torque!
What surprised me is how little pressure it takes to reach the desired torque, but this thing is so much bigger than any hex wrench and, well, applies a lot of torque!
#2
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#3
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Torque wrenches usually aren't considered very reliable on the extremes of their range, so be careful using the wrench on fasteners below 10 foot pounds (more of an issue with click-type wrenches). Even the more expensive brands have this issue.
#4
Senior Member
I would recommend you get something like this, about $40 on Ebay
1/4" 2-15 Nm Reversible Drive Click Type Torque Wrench Set Tool Professional New
1/4" 2-15 Nm Reversible Drive Click Type Torque Wrench Set Tool Professional New
#5
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For the low end this one is excellent: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ beam type wrenches are more precise than clickers, and are calibrated just by getting zero correct.
I have the same HF 3/8 wrench as you do for the mid-range work. I have checked its calibration - it is good.
For my truck's lug nuts (150 ft-lbs); I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL1NS
I have the same HF 3/8 wrench as you do for the mid-range work. I have checked its calibration - it is good.
For my truck's lug nuts (150 ft-lbs); I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL1NS
#6
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I treated myself to an ACDelco digital wrench. Easier to use than beam wrenches, and less hassle calibration-wise than clickers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUQI2/
#7
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Thread Starter
FWIW there is a certificate of calibration included with it. I'm not a fan of Harbor Freight either but for the price and the amount of use it will get it is fine. I went there once to get a few squares and they weren't square relative to each other making them totally useless.
That Delco wrench is 5 times the price.
And tightening the crank bolt to spec after greasing the threads and the left arm splines didn't do anything to help. Next is the chainring bolts and contacts. My guess is still a bad BB bearing. I'm going to try different pedals too, rather than try to diagnose the ones I'm using. And one other thing is that I can hear my cleats squealing, but that doesn't bother me as much.
That Delco wrench is 5 times the price.
And tightening the crank bolt to spec after greasing the threads and the left arm splines didn't do anything to help. Next is the chainring bolts and contacts. My guess is still a bad BB bearing. I'm going to try different pedals too, rather than try to diagnose the ones I'm using. And one other thing is that I can hear my cleats squealing, but that doesn't bother me as much.
Last edited by zacster; 08-31-18 at 07:12 PM.
#8
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For the low end this one is excellent: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ beam type wrenches are more precise than clickers, and are calibrated just by getting zero correct.
I have the same HF 3/8 wrench as you do for the mid-range work. I have checked its calibration - it is good.
For my truck's lug nuts (150 ft-lbs); I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL1NS
I have the same HF 3/8 wrench as you do for the mid-range work. I have checked its calibration - it is good.
For my truck's lug nuts (150 ft-lbs); I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL1NS
#9
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Craftsman 1/2" and 3/8" clicker type torque wrenches are on sale for $49 right now.
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-micr...p-00931424000P
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-micr...p-00931425000P
-Tim-
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-micr...p-00931424000P
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-micr...p-00931425000P
-Tim-
#10
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Be sure and turn your torque wrench to the lowest setting when in storage so it isn't stretching the spring inside or you'll be re calibrating soon.
#11
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I also recommend calibration. My neighbor had the small one from HF and we found it seriously out when new. Took it back and the manager said wait until after our sidewalk sale when we will sell out current stock and get in a new batch as this batch is all bad. Neighbor actually did that and we checked it when he got the new one and it was right on, but I don't know if it stayed that way.
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What’s a Bi-Gass torque wrench ?
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One of the most expensive tools you'll ever buy, is a cheap torque wrench. I have two Kolbalt torque wrenches, a 3/8 inch and a 1/2 inch, in different ranges. I still need a good 1/4 torque wrench. I have one, bought on a whim, and it has been fair, but I don't think it will hold up. Not Kolbalt. The Kolbalts have been accurate. I also have a beam torque wrench.
For the bicycle, for stems, handlebars, seat clamps, and other assorted fasteners, I have ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-TL...+torque+wrench
For the bicycle, for stems, handlebars, seat clamps, and other assorted fasteners, I have ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-TL...+torque+wrench
#17
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I have yet to work on a bicycle and wish I had a torque wrench.
Does that make me a retro-grouch ??
Does that make me a retro-grouch ??
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#18
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Thread Starter
It was only the fact that the clicking didn't stop after I went around and tinkered that I though maybe bringing the torque up to spec may help. We all tend to just do it by feel, but maybe that isn't good enough.
#20
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I use an inch pound (spin dr) on my bike. Have a bar type I use on my vehicles. Still have a Sears click type that apparently dropped cal causing me to break a main cap bolt in a motor years ago (still hear the sound in my head of the broken piece bouncing off the shop floor)...sometimes I use it for a rachet or breaker bar.
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#22
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Please read post number 8.
#24
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Even going by feel with one of these wrenches it feels close enough to correct. Not everything out of China is junk, in fact the opposite is true. They'd never be able to sell anything if it were all junk. Cheap? Yes. Junk? No.
#25
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No, they sell plenty, and many don't care. Their torque wrenches a notoriously bad, mainly, they won't last. Yes, some may come perfectly calibrated, but their quality is poor. When you are dealing with low torque, 5Nm and 6Nm or so, an inaccuracy can put you way over the intended torque.