Bpor3248

I have a 1983 Fuji America that I am restoring. I was planning to have it sandblasted and powdercoated. If I use the heat resistant tape on the tubes and BB will it hold up to the blasting or does it have to be masked after blasting? Also can I leave the race crowns on and mask them?

Lemond1985

My powdercoater masked all that stuff off without me even asking. I think it's pretty standard practice in the powdercoating industry to mask off anything threaded, but you never know how experienced the person doing your bike is, so it can't hurt to ask. I would be inclined to let them do it, since they (hopefully) know what does and doesn't work for protecting threads, and you would only be making an educated guess.

easyupbug 

As said above if at all possible find someone experienced with bikes and you should be fine, ideally someone who does bikes for bike shops or frame builders, a patio furniture coater may leave you some surprises. They need experience in pre and post blast masking. We have shops in town who know bikes and I remove the crown race from the fork as added insurance against damage, but if you don't have the tools and they understand what is needed you should be fine.

Lemond1985

And if a worst case scenario happens and your threads get powdercoated, the stuff is not impossible to remove. Consider it complimentary Loctite.

oneclick 

Try to get it soda-blasted. Just a different media, but sand is harder than steel and baking soda isn't - it's only harder than paint. Which is a Good Thing.

unworthy1

Yep, short answer: if you are trying to preserve something original (paint or chrome, etc.) SOMEbody has to mask with (first) the tape that will hold up against whatever media is use to blast (sand, glass beads, walnut shells, etc.) and then (second) if that first taping is damaged or not the heat-resistant type then removed and replaced with heat-proof before PC and baking, so possbly twice masked by skilled hands

Bpor3248

Thanks to all who replied. I will consider all those options.

top506

My powdercoat guy is so reasonable ($50 blast and single color frame and fork) that I don't mind a little clean up on the head tube and crown race.

Top

Bpor3248

Thanks. Any thoughts on leaving the crown race on before PC?

oneclick 

Take the damm thing off - a minute with a hammer and drift. It'll take you more time to find the tools than to do it.

If you don't, you have forgotten Rule number <n>: never give someone else the chance to screw up your stuff.

gugie 

I've heard this, and it makes sense, but I've used 4 different powder coaters and asked what they use. None of them did the same thing, and none used soda. I'm fairly sure it takes longer with a softer media.

bark_eater 

I've seen a few suggestions that abrasive blasting can work harden tubes. I've talked to a sort of local guy who does custom beach cruisers, who would charge $100 for a bike already stripped. I figure if I do a careful chemical strip, the blasting he will do for surface prep will be minimal. The pro shop in the area figured $250-$300 for a full prep and powder coat. I figure they dont like working on bikes.

oneclick 

Good tubing will already be work-hardened by the drawing process. (This is a Good Thing.)

The damage is material loss, and possible stress-riser generation.

gugie 

I've had 30-40 frames powder coated by 4 different outfits, and as I've noted, none used a "soft" abrasive. No soda, walnut shells, glass beads. I only send frames to people experienced in bike frames. What they tell me is that as long as you're careful with angle and pressure, and don't sit on an area too long, you won't damage the frame.

My advice: choose your powder coater by their experience with bike frames rather than the media they used to prep the frame.

3alarmer 

...definitely remove the races from the fork and the head tube, as well as anything in the BB shell, dropout adjustment screws, etc. Everything comes off.

RobbieTunes

1. Powdercoat is not paint; don't expect it to be.
2. Powdercoaters are protection-oriented; not artists.
3. Masking in many powdercoat situations is the opposite of what they do.
4. Powders vary, coating thicknesses vary. Don't choose the color, choose the coating.
5. There is a wide range of skills and pricing in the powder environment.
6. Good luck.

gugie 

1. Good point, but some colors aren't that sensitive to powder vs paint. Pastels, in particular don't seem to care which way you go.
2. and 3. Counterpoint, Andy_K 's Motobecane Grand Record

But you've got to get the right powder coater to do something as nice as this!
4. Not quite sure what you mean?
5. Oh yeah! Same can be said for wet paint, however.
6. For best luck, do your homework before choosing a powder coater.

Note that for many (most?) people, powder coating is what they can afford. I've only opened my wallet for wet paint once. I probably will again in the future.

Powder coating gets a bad wrap because there are so many outfits that powder coat lawn furniture and say they'll do a bike. You've gotta find someone that cares about bikes, and somewhat specializes in them.

At the end of the day, I ride my bikes a lot more than I stare at them. I can afford to have several vintage bikes that I've put torch to, I can't afford to paint them all.

Finally, powder coat is a heck of a lot more environmentally friendly, and safer to apply than 2-part catalyzed paint.

mechanicmatt

I agree on everything gugie is saying. You have to find a good coater.