Springy feeling when sprinting out of the saddle
#26
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It's the flats. When one uses foot retention, the force on the downstroke pedal will shift to point aft at the bottom of the stroke and then shift to point up on the upstroke both seated and OOS. You're just like a piston acting on a crankshaft through stiff connecting rod. Yes, it makes power, but with a good bit of shaking if you've ever ridden a single cylinder motorcycles. Your downstroke goes on too long and compresses the tire which then rebounds when the pressure is removed. You're supposed to spin smoothly even OOS, but you can't because that demands foot retention. You'll have some habits to get over when you do get pedals and shoes.
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Your downstroke goes on too long and compresses the tire which then rebounds when the pressure is removed. You're supposed to spin smoothly even OOS, but you can't because that demands foot retention. You'll have some habits to get over when you do get pedals and shoes.
I drop heel during pedaling to a large degree. Sitted or OOS. Considerably less perceived effort for me.
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Would have been a very good solution except I only got very few friends and none of them have high end bike. My fault. I should probably keep to slow sprinting speeds like steep uphill sprints for the meantime just to be safe and also to test how strong my $250 bike is without putting myself in grave danger.
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I don't know why 55 kph on a bike looks like 550 kph. I do often feel like the bike might disintegrate under me. I'm definitely worried about the bike breaking apart than loose footing for me.
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They spin way over 100 rpm, in fact closer to 200 with no foot retention and definitely out of the saddle.
They do have a trend nowadays to clip in pedals but traditionally it was always just flats.
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#31
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Watching countless road race sprint finishes I can’t recall ever seeing someone standing and spinning maniacally at 120 rpm. BMX riders don’t have the option of changing gears!
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#32
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I have 35mm wide road tires. Wheels are alloy with 36 spokes front and rear. Inflated to little bit higher pressure than is recommended for my weight (124 lbs) 50 psi rear / 45 psi front (Recommended is 45 / 39 psi)
As my sprinting cadence reaches 110 to 120 rpm, pedal strokes start feeling springy. My tires don't bounce, bike is stable but I literally feel like I'm jogging over springy mattress like a 5 year old. I feel it most strongly at the bottom of the stroke.
Tires? Pressure? Frame flex? Crank flex? Crank and frame is alloy. Bike is locked down tight every nut and bolt and smooth, no unsual noise during sprinting, just the soft hum and buzzing of the drivetrain.
I don't experience nor perceive this springy feeling when climbing out of the saddle at lower cadences.
As my sprinting cadence reaches 110 to 120 rpm, pedal strokes start feeling springy. My tires don't bounce, bike is stable but I literally feel like I'm jogging over springy mattress like a 5 year old. I feel it most strongly at the bottom of the stroke.
Tires? Pressure? Frame flex? Crank flex? Crank and frame is alloy. Bike is locked down tight every nut and bolt and smooth, no unsual noise during sprinting, just the soft hum and buzzing of the drivetrain.
I don't experience nor perceive this springy feeling when climbing out of the saddle at lower cadences.

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I'm surprised that so many are expressing dismay at 110-120 out of the saddle. I'm also surprised that people are suggesting to "sprint" in the saddle.

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110-120 rpms really isn't that much if you train for it. BMX was already mentioned, but track cyclists also routinely hit huge cadences. Many can turn 200 rpms on the rollers or 170 out of the saddle.
#35
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For decades the standard gear on track bikes was 46x14. Big riders might use slightly bigger chainrings, except that there were hardly any, or no, riders weighing 200# so this was immaterial. Figure that in old days where everyone was on 36 spokes and flat rims, no aero nothing, doing 200 meters in 12 seconds meant you were competing, 200 meters in 11 seconds meant you were good. Get on the calculator and solve for rpm. Using 675mm for rolling diameter I get 143rpm for 12 seconds. And remember that is an average for 200 meters, not peak pedal speed.
Small guys on track often did ride 45 teeth in front, even 44. They went same speed as anyone else.
Somewhere in past twenty years everything changed and sprinters are now weightlifters on wheels. Gears used now are simply enormous. The riders are simply enormous. Spinning has gone out of fashion. And most don’t even know that pedaling at 120 rpm is real normal for a rider weighing 124.
Tires could have something to do with it. Pressure gauges are unreliable. Most will give the same reading today as yesterday, but being 5 or 10 psi off is ordinary. So experiment with both higher and lower pressure. Recommended pressures are just a guess at a starting point. Speed and sprinting load the tires differently than ordinary riding. If the whole bike is $250 the tires are probably basic. Basic tires won’t sprint that well.
Doing the speeds you are reporting with no pedal retention and a basic bike sounds difficult. Also sounds like really good training.
Small guys on track often did ride 45 teeth in front, even 44. They went same speed as anyone else.
Somewhere in past twenty years everything changed and sprinters are now weightlifters on wheels. Gears used now are simply enormous. The riders are simply enormous. Spinning has gone out of fashion. And most don’t even know that pedaling at 120 rpm is real normal for a rider weighing 124.
Tires could have something to do with it. Pressure gauges are unreliable. Most will give the same reading today as yesterday, but being 5 or 10 psi off is ordinary. So experiment with both higher and lower pressure. Recommended pressures are just a guess at a starting point. Speed and sprinting load the tires differently than ordinary riding. If the whole bike is $250 the tires are probably basic. Basic tires won’t sprint that well.
Doing the speeds you are reporting with no pedal retention and a basic bike sounds difficult. Also sounds like really good training.
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Tires could have something to do with it. Pressure gauges are unreliable. Most will give the same reading today as yesterday, but being 5 or 10 psi off is ordinary. So experiment with both higher and lower pressure. Recommended pressures are just a guess at a starting point. Speed and sprinting load the tires differently than ordinary riding. If the whole bike is $250 the tires are probably basic. Basic tires won’t sprint that well.
Doing the speeds you are reporting with no pedal retention and a basic bike sounds difficult. Also sounds like really good training.
Doing the speeds you are reporting with no pedal retention and a basic bike sounds difficult. Also sounds like really good training.
The tires I bought are "tall profile tires" 35mm wide which I think is meant to better absorb road bumps. It's a long-wearing, low 27 TPI, urban / tour tires with anti-puncture protection. It actually is "springy" by itself at the recommended pressures for my weight + bike with significant lateral flexing if I try to push the bike sideways.
Unfortunately perhaps, I'm probably restricted to these tires as these tires proved to be quite durable and long lasting in our poor quality roads. Quite affordable for me too.
#38
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The tire is much more flexible than the frame is.
You aren't flexing the tire enough to lose traction. So it has to be the much less flexible frame?
This doesn't make sense.
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He weighs 120lb, and rides a MOUNTAIN BIKE which is an XXS (he needs a Large size frame , as he is 5ft8) has a 100 something mm stem facing downwards, with drop bars, and rides with the seat lower than baseline. Nothing is flexing here. Doesn't matter
Moving along, folks
Moving along, folks
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#40
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There's some chance that, even with his feeling of "springiness", there is no springing (other that tires) going on.
It takes time for things to rebound (for "springing" to occur).
It would be somewhat odd that the springiness increased with a cadence of 120 (from 110).
There is probably less force per rotation (meaning less energy going into the compression reflected by something springing back).
The shorter time of the period also means there's less time for the compression/release cycle to occur in.
Both those things suggest he should be feeling less springiness. And even 110 might be too fast to feel much springiness.
It takes time for things to rebound (for "springing" to occur).
It would be somewhat odd that the springiness increased with a cadence of 120 (from 110).
There is probably less force per rotation (meaning less energy going into the compression reflected by something springing back).
The shorter time of the period also means there's less time for the compression/release cycle to occur in.
Both those things suggest he should be feeling less springiness. And even 110 might be too fast to feel much springiness.
Last edited by njkayaker; 01-12-21 at 10:36 AM.
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I'm fully prepared to be mercilessly roasted over this. But the point is that 150ish RPM out of the saddle (for a VERY short burst) is possible. I never sustain anything close to this, obviously.
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OK I promised to make a video so here it is:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAndXiqsf_8
I'm fully prepared to be mercilessly roasted over this. But the point is that 150ish RPM out of the saddle (for a VERY short burst) is possible. I never sustain anything close to this, obviously.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAndXiqsf_8
I'm fully prepared to be mercilessly roasted over this. But the point is that 150ish RPM out of the saddle (for a VERY short burst) is possible. I never sustain anything close to this, obviously.
But if you have trouble outputting a solid amount of watts in the saddle (albeit at a lower cadence) it could mean that you need slightly different geometry to get the best performance.
See if you can take another video, maybe in a slightly higher gear, slowing things down a little to try and avoid that side to side wobble and get as much power down, as efficiently as possible.
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I think that is pretty impressive.
But if you have trouble outputting a solid amount of watts in the saddle (albeit at a lower cadence) it could mean that you need slightly different geometry to get the best performance.
See if you can take another video, maybe in a slightly higher gear, slowing things down a little to try and avoid that side to side wobble and get as much power down, as efficiently as possible.
But if you have trouble outputting a solid amount of watts in the saddle (albeit at a lower cadence) it could mean that you need slightly different geometry to get the best performance.
See if you can take another video, maybe in a slightly higher gear, slowing things down a little to try and avoid that side to side wobble and get as much power down, as efficiently as possible.
The point was that 120 out of the saddle, in a sprint, isn't absurd. And it's really not.
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I've been testing how flexible the entire bike setup by holding the bike upright with my hands and pushing the BB away from me with my feet. It didn't took much effort to visibly flex the frame and the tires flexed laterally even more. I can definitely feel it even when simply attacking out of the saddle. It's disconcerting to say the least.
I suppose it's simply the fact, a Walmart quality cheap bike isn't going to cut it. Or I'm just too sensitive to these things.
#45
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Yes, the tire is much more flexible and even worse since I have a tall profile 35mm wide tires installed (it's taller than wider).
I've been testing how flexible the entire bike setup by holding the bike upright with my hands and pushing the BB away from me with my feet. It didn't took much effort to visibly flex the frame and the tires flexed laterally even more. I can definitely feel it even when simply attacking out of the saddle. It's disconcerting to say the least.
I suppose it's simply the fact, a Walmart quality cheap bike isn't going to cut it. Or I'm just too sensitive to these things.
I've been testing how flexible the entire bike setup by holding the bike upright with my hands and pushing the BB away from me with my feet. It didn't took much effort to visibly flex the frame and the tires flexed laterally even more. I can definitely feel it even when simply attacking out of the saddle. It's disconcerting to say the least.
I suppose it's simply the fact, a Walmart quality cheap bike isn't going to cut it. Or I'm just too sensitive to these things.
Things aren't going to change much with a different (more expensive) frame.
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#46
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That requires replacing my whole wheelset. I currently have 18mm internal rim width which is good for our bumpy roads but maybe not for performance.
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It's fairly achievable to anyone training for it unless you have physical issues preventing you from doing so. It's very rare that any cyclist would just train for it and because it's actually difficult to be even decent at it!
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For reference here is a picture of the monstrosity in question:
Trivial question- can anyone point out why this rider spends "long times out of the saddle" on this bike? I think I can?
I feel like I have to follow up so that people can see what they are dealing with, before wasting time commenting on this thread. Now, all that's left is to see this dude riding this contraption.
Trivial question- can anyone point out why this rider spends "long times out of the saddle" on this bike? I think I can?
I feel like I have to follow up so that people can see what they are dealing with, before wasting time commenting on this thread. Now, all that's left is to see this dude riding this contraption.
Below is my present setup with the corrected seat height. I also needed a large seat setback to further unload my arms to help improve comfort in our poorly maintained, very bumpy roads.

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I think that is pretty impressive.
But if you have trouble outputting a solid amount of watts in the saddle (albeit at a lower cadence) it could mean that you need slightly different geometry to get the best performance.
See if you can take another video, maybe in a slightly higher gear, slowing things down a little to try and avoid that side to side wobble and get as much power down, as efficiently as possible.
But if you have trouble outputting a solid amount of watts in the saddle (albeit at a lower cadence) it could mean that you need slightly different geometry to get the best performance.
See if you can take another video, maybe in a slightly higher gear, slowing things down a little to try and avoid that side to side wobble and get as much power down, as efficiently as possible.
Not sure if you're giving advice to sprint out of the saddle without swaying the bike or just sprint in the saddle. And those few who can actually do a good sprint in the saddle does it at even much higher cadences (~200 rpm!!), not less than 120 rpm!!
Very strange, all advice I read in the internet from the pros, scientific studies is telling the opposite of what you're saying here.

Last edited by cubewheels; 01-13-21 at 05:25 AM.
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Not sure if you're giving advice to sprint out of the saddle without swaying the bike or just sprint in the saddle. And those few who can actually do a good sprint in the saddle does it at even much higher cadences (~200 rpm!!), not less than 120 rpm!!
Very strange, all advice I read in the internet from the pros, scientific studies is telling the opposite of what you're saying here.
Very strange, all advice I read in the internet from the pros, scientific studies is telling the opposite of what you're saying here.

most track sprinters are shooting for about 140rpm. What has been found is that higher cadence, which usually requires a smaller gear, doesn’t actually produce more watts. 140 rpm is kind of the sweet spot.