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Raleigh Superbe light wiring issue

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Old 08-10-23, 09:09 AM
  #1  
KarinExMachina
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Raleigh Superbe light wiring issue

I have a problem with my lights my Raleigh Superbe is using LED bulbs so they respond very well to both battery and dynamo power but the bottom plate of the battery pack went "missing" at my parents house and the front lamp is dim and only works if it's connected to the bike. I think it's drawing power from the earthing which is wrong.. there's a wiring issue somewhere

Last edited by KarinExMachina; 08-10-23 at 09:10 AM. Reason: Extra info
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Old 08-10-23, 09:16 AM
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Can you post pictures?
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Old 08-10-23, 11:12 AM
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Don't "Think".. Find Out.
a volt/ohm meter will show polarity... and a bad ground point is what i'd look for first.
corrosion at a wire/connector junction, or at a connector/frame junction, will create an ohmage above a few tenths of an ohm........ higher ohmage will cause a voltage drop, and dim lights.

Solder any bad connections, or coat with de-ox grease, after thorough cleaning, to prevent future issues.

Last edited by maddog34; 08-10-23 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 08-10-23, 02:47 PM
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Perhaps this?
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Old 08-10-23, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
Perhaps this?
so.. a POSITIVE Ground electrical system... A Lucas Electrics design, perhaps??? AKA: "the prince of darkness."
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Old 08-10-23, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
so.. a POSITIVE Ground electrical system... A Lucas Electrics design, perhaps??? AKA: "the prince of darkness."
Positive grounding is extremely common in the vintage 6V auto world.
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Old 08-10-23, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by dedhed
Positive grounding is extremely common in the vintage 6V auto world.
as were bare copper strip spark plug leads and brass radiators.
all were Very Bad ideas.
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Old 08-11-23, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by storckm
Can you post pictures?
I would but the site says no unless I made 10 posts
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Old 08-11-23, 01:13 AM
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I also need a new bottom plate for the battery pack
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Old 08-11-23, 05:54 AM
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Was the bottom plate metal, or did it include any metal strips?
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Old 08-11-23, 07:09 AM
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The way I'm reading that diagram, the tip voltage is positive and the ground is negative. Starting from the tail-light, I see that the base is connected to negative and the tip is positive. The negative on the tailight is connected to terminal I on the DAUFSU (why not just say "battery switch unit? Sigh...) which is also connected to the ground on the main lamp which is connected to the negative on the hub dyno. So isn't this a negative ground/earth system?

I have to say that the "Dyno Luxe" logo on the drawing is pretty cool....
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Old 08-11-23, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by maddog34
as were bare copper strip spark plug leads and brass radiators.
all were Very Bad ideas.
​​​​​​There is very little to prefer the use of one versus the other until electronics came about. As we know semiconductor PNP transistors never caught up with the capability of NPNs, which in turn are easier to design with using a positive supply, particularly in switching electronics. Electron tube designs for radios also preferred a positive supply, so the positive ground systems were simply a choice that didn't pan out in the long run

Give me a crossflow brass radiator over a plastic and Aluminium any day. Brass radiators were phased out as cost cutting, not performance.
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Old 08-11-23, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by dedhed
​​​​​​There is very little to prefer the use of one versus the other until electronics came about. As we know semiconductor PNP transistors never caught up with the capability of NPNs, which in turn are easier to design with using a positive supply, particularly in switching electronics. Electron tube designs for radios also preferred a positive supply, so the positive ground systems were simply a choice that didn't pan out in the long run

Give me a crossflow brass radiator over a plastic and Aluminium any day. Brass radiators were phased out as cost cutting, not performance.
Suffice it to say that this convo is irrelevant to the forum or the topic of this thread.

Look up Heat transfer coefficients for the radiator materials mentioned.

Brass was chosen because it was easily formed.

plastics were not available, and easily formed aluminum alloys had yet to be created.

i will not be responding further on this irrelevant subject.

Last edited by maddog34; 08-11-23 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 08-13-23, 03:02 PM
  #14  
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Bottom plate was a piece of metal with a domed center and a drilled and tapped hole to secure with a screw and nut to the tube
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Old 08-13-23, 03:06 PM
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So yeah i gotta make 10 posts before i can upload images which is..
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Old 08-13-23, 03:07 PM
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...well what can ya do?
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Old 08-13-23, 03:08 PM
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Except make 10 posts here just for it.
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Old 08-13-23, 03:08 PM
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Heres the diagram for the FSU which is what my bike uses
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Old 08-13-23, 03:11 PM
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Rear lamp with front bulb

Rear lamp with rear bulb

Front lamp

Rear Lamp
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Old 08-13-23, 03:13 PM
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As you can see from these the front bulb seems to be brighter than the rear until i put it into the front lamp then it goes dim, it also only works when the lamp mount is pshycially touching the bike frame. it sounds like its getting power through the frame of the bike instead of the wires
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Old 08-13-23, 03:15 PM
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As for the bulbs its these. A Xgen 2 rate limiter was also added to make sure the dynamo doesnt blow out the LEDs when it puts more energy through it.


Left is original Halogen bulb that i replaced with the Right Bulb which is a white LED

Last edited by KarinExMachina; 08-13-23 at 03:16 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 08-13-23, 06:29 PM
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heres the wiring into the front lamp it has 4 terminals but only 2 are in use and the ground is the front terminal thats facing a different way from the other 3
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