Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#6001
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I'm not feeling it in this case, but I guess a slammed, stubby stem like that has got to be pretty stiff, alright! Something I've never really considered, even though my stems are all rather swan-like 120s and 130s.
Thanks for giving me something new to worry about, next time I'm standing on the pedals trying to catch up the younger, leaner guys waxing me up the hill!
I do like the rest of the bike; reminds me a bit of my Nishiki Landau when I had it set up for winter commuting. You can't see it in this pic, but it has the same bespoke metalic silver panel on the head tube as your Ross. (No brifters, though):
Thanks for giving me something new to worry about, next time I'm standing on the pedals trying to catch up the younger, leaner guys waxing me up the hill!
I do like the rest of the bike; reminds me a bit of my Nishiki Landau when I had it set up for winter commuting. You can't see it in this pic, but it has the same bespoke metalic silver panel on the head tube as your Ross. (No brifters, though):
120-130 stems I find are much too long for me. I generally dislike being cantilevered out over the front wheels, my hands beyond the front axle. If the bike has a 72-73° HT angle, then it's not so bad, but a good portion of my fleet has 74° HTs and it's noticeable. Long stems sure do look nice, though.
Lovely Nishiki--they did a great job with that blue. I used to have an '83 Olympic 12 in a burgundy metallic with stunning flake. I would imagine yours does as well. I had a silver HT as well, but painted it black and re-decal'd it as it was not looking so good. Great bike. Nishiki had solid stuff.
#6002
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Back on topic, here's my own first retro roadie build: 1989 Trek 400 with mostly 600 TriColor bits. Yes, an ancient, crusty old frame with those modern STI shifty parts, gosh, probably at least five, six years newer than the frame!
As my first powder coated frame, I asked the guy I took it to if he could make sure the lugs and details weren't too buried in powder. He said, "Sure." I think he did ok on that.
600 TriColor bits (mostly) all around.
But not the "swanlike" stem,
Or the crank, as I wanted a 110bcd to make my first ever compact double. Newish 50/36 rings on 30+ year old crank arms. (Yes, I am getting old, and I have hills to climb). The SX cranks were in terrible shape when i found them, pitted, white and fuzzy with oxidation when I pulled them off a very rusty early-80s MTB. Wetsanding them down to 600 grit gave them a pretty nice satiny luster that I'm going to try to duplicate on the seatpost, if I don't end up going black there. (Your input on that point is welcome)
One of my most photogenic Brooks saddles, and a pleasure to straddle. Team Pro. Nice hunk o' cowhide.
Riding impressions: the bike is not real light (24.6 as shown) but very stiff and responsive. My first TrueTemper frame and one that's just a little smaller/tighter than I usually ride, so that's probably part of it. Looking forward to some longer rides than the few quick sprints I've done so far shaking this down. Pretty OK going up hills, so far.
Grab-bag of pieces and parts sourced at bargain prices from the following C&Vers: thanks for your help, guys!
Trek 400 frame/fork from @Insidious C.
Wheelset and TriColor RD from @Bradleykd
Brooks Team Pro @Desertdweller
I have a 600 Headset not put on yet, but probably will
Still looking for a TriColor FD with 28.6 clamp
Oh yeah, frame "as found":
As my first powder coated frame, I asked the guy I took it to if he could make sure the lugs and details weren't too buried in powder. He said, "Sure." I think he did ok on that.
600 TriColor bits (mostly) all around.
But not the "swanlike" stem,
Or the crank, as I wanted a 110bcd to make my first ever compact double. Newish 50/36 rings on 30+ year old crank arms. (Yes, I am getting old, and I have hills to climb). The SX cranks were in terrible shape when i found them, pitted, white and fuzzy with oxidation when I pulled them off a very rusty early-80s MTB. Wetsanding them down to 600 grit gave them a pretty nice satiny luster that I'm going to try to duplicate on the seatpost, if I don't end up going black there. (Your input on that point is welcome)
One of my most photogenic Brooks saddles, and a pleasure to straddle. Team Pro. Nice hunk o' cowhide.
Riding impressions: the bike is not real light (24.6 as shown) but very stiff and responsive. My first TrueTemper frame and one that's just a little smaller/tighter than I usually ride, so that's probably part of it. Looking forward to some longer rides than the few quick sprints I've done so far shaking this down. Pretty OK going up hills, so far.
Grab-bag of pieces and parts sourced at bargain prices from the following C&Vers: thanks for your help, guys!
Trek 400 frame/fork from @Insidious C.
Wheelset and TriColor RD from @Bradleykd
Brooks Team Pro @Desertdweller
I have a 600 Headset not put on yet, but probably will
Still looking for a TriColor FD with 28.6 clamp
Oh yeah, frame "as found":
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 02-08-18 at 11:46 PM.
#6003
Senior Member
I got a bit tired of running classically dropped vintage drop bars for rain/commuting duty, as good as it looked, as fun as it was, and as cool as it was to run Sante 7s indexed DT shifters over a Sante FD and Superbe Tech RD. So over the weekend, in addition to tending to five other of my bikes in minor and major ways, my Ross received a mid-cold&soggy season disassembly and cleaning. Creaky and tired 5500 Octalink BB swapped for a much healthier 6500 unit, same 7700 DA cranks, some 1994-era 8-speed Record Ergo levers I got for super cheap (and threw new hoods on), VGC super shiny fun times Mirage RD and 7410 Dura Ace FD. Modern bar conversion (short/shallow Kona compact bars) and cheap "well used" (LBS advertisement of them) Campy 8s wheelset rounded out the changes and I have a very much upgraded commuter.
I really think there is something to replacing the quill stem with an adapter+1 1/8" stem+31.8mm clamp drop bar on an old steel frame. You can choose to do so or keep that classic sexy quill stem (I still do on a few bikes), but the "sureness" and not-jarring ridgidy that comes from such a conversion, especially when out of the saddle, is a great feeling. Regardless, it's a (even more) fun and now noticeably faster ride (I had jockey wheel drag on the Suberbe Tech RD), good thing for the sub-40° weather we have now.
Anyway, bla bla pretty bike safely indoors:
I really think there is something to replacing the quill stem with an adapter+1 1/8" stem+31.8mm clamp drop bar on an old steel frame. You can choose to do so or keep that classic sexy quill stem (I still do on a few bikes), but the "sureness" and not-jarring ridgidy that comes from such a conversion, especially when out of the saddle, is a great feeling. Regardless, it's a (even more) fun and now noticeably faster ride (I had jockey wheel drag on the Suberbe Tech RD), good thing for the sub-40° weather we have now.
Anyway, bla bla pretty bike safely indoors:
#6004
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Really nice job! I have the exact same bike in nice shape sitting around that I'm thinking of upgrading to brand new 10 speed components.
#6005
Pedal to the medal
@Lascauxcaveman, thanks for the great post. Your photos are well taken and your description is interesting. Interested to hear how the longer rides shake down. Regarding the seatpost, I would stick with silver as black might be over doing it with the stem, rims, and chain ring.
#6006
Senior Member
@Lascauxcaveman, personally I think that the crank, stem and seatpost should all be one color - but in your case the crank is both black/silver so the mix of the stem (black stem & silver bars) and the seatpost all makes it kinda work. If you went to a black seatpost the crank might then look out of place.. just my two cents!
The Powder Coat is very nice! Great build...
The Powder Coat is very nice! Great build...
#6008
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
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^^^ Belongs in the "orange bikes" thread, too. Because orange bikes rule!
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#6009
Senior Member
So I have an 89 Merckx Corsa SL currently with Athena 11 on it.
I recently acquired some Chorus 9spd stuff.
I'm torn on which group I'd rather have on the Merckx - New 11spd Athena (black), or the more era correct Chorus 9spd (silver).
What do the retro roadies think?
I hated the look of the bar setup in this pic, so ignore that.
I've recently put a Pantographed quill stem and some Soma Highway One bars on it, so the tape is off right now anyway; I'd like to make my mind up before I re-tape the bars.
I think I know what I want to do, but I'm curious of others' opinions.
I recently acquired some Chorus 9spd stuff.
I'm torn on which group I'd rather have on the Merckx - New 11spd Athena (black), or the more era correct Chorus 9spd (silver).
What do the retro roadies think?
I hated the look of the bar setup in this pic, so ignore that.
I've recently put a Pantographed quill stem and some Soma Highway One bars on it, so the tape is off right now anyway; I'd like to make my mind up before I re-tape the bars.
I think I know what I want to do, but I'm curious of others' opinions.
#6010
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Silver parts don't highlight scuffs and dings as much. If you're going to ride it, silver parts!
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Jeff Wills
Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
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#6011
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Back on topic, here's my own first retro roadie build: 1989 Trek 400 with mostly 600 TriColor bits. Yes, an ancient, crusty old frame with those modern STI shifty parts, gosh, probably at least five, six years newer than the frame!
As my first powder coated frame, I asked the guy I took it to if he could make sure the lugs and details weren't too buried in powder. He said, "Sure." I think he did ok on that.
Wetsanding them down to 600 grit gave them a pretty nice satiny luster that I'm going to try to duplicate on the seatpost, if I don't end up going black there. (Your input on that point is welcome)
As my first powder coated frame, I asked the guy I took it to if he could make sure the lugs and details weren't too buried in powder. He said, "Sure." I think he did ok on that.
Wetsanding them down to 600 grit gave them a pretty nice satiny luster that I'm going to try to duplicate on the seatpost, if I don't end up going black there. (Your input on that point is welcome)
BTW, this is pretty much exactly the powdercoat job I was contemplating for the newly acquired Panasonic DX-5000. I love the metallic orange. I'll still probably do it one day, but on a frame that has really ugly/damaged paint on a frame with minimal collectable value. Great job. I hope it rides was good as it looks.
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#6014
Senior Member
Chorus 9 speed is lovely stuff, I run it on my Colnago Dream. Keep in mind though that if the Athena crank is a Power Torque one they're a nightmare to remove.
#6015
Senior Member
#6016
Senior Member
I've heard a lot about the power torque cranks being tough to remove, but I've never run into a mechanical task I couldn't do, so I'm not too worried about that.
#6017
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Great choice, at least looks wise. I look forward to seeing it with the new drive train and new stem/bars.
#6018
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#6019
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Here is my entry in the Old frame with modern components game.
It is a 1984ish Raleigh Grand Prix frame (Reynolds 531) with Mavic Cxp22 wheels which are desperately heavy and could easily shave 2 pounds if I swap to a lighter wheelset (but hey they were free because I literally found them in the trash dumpster at my apartment complex). I built it up with a Campy Veloce/Centaur groupset if you disregard the Ultegra 6500 crankset that is a placeholder for the Centaur Ultra Torque crank that will make its way on the bike shortly. It is finished off with white bar tape and matching Fizik Arione.
It is a 1984ish Raleigh Grand Prix frame (Reynolds 531) with Mavic Cxp22 wheels which are desperately heavy and could easily shave 2 pounds if I swap to a lighter wheelset (but hey they were free because I literally found them in the trash dumpster at my apartment complex). I built it up with a Campy Veloce/Centaur groupset if you disregard the Ultegra 6500 crankset that is a placeholder for the Centaur Ultra Torque crank that will make its way on the bike shortly. It is finished off with white bar tape and matching Fizik Arione.
#6020
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@yodabiri Wow that is some looker!
#6024
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^ It looks like candy. In a good way.
_______________
It's a 12-32 and I will be honest, even by my brutish caveman standards, the big/big combo is REALLY pushing the limits of the RD. I don't go there, so I can live with it, but if I ever loan the bike to someone, I should warn them about it.
If it breaks? Eh, plenty of other used RDs out there.
_______________
It's a 12-32 and I will be honest, even by my brutish caveman standards, the big/big combo is REALLY pushing the limits of the RD. I don't go there, so I can live with it, but if I ever loan the bike to someone, I should warn them about it.
If it breaks? Eh, plenty of other used RDs out there.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 12-20-16 at 06:21 PM.
#6025
Senior Member
This is an eighties (regarding the flat fork crown I'd say early till mid eighties) frame so 9 speed is about 12 years away from that period. If you want to go period correct you need a 6 speed Superrecord or Nuovo Record.
This is my '81 Merckx (not finised yet):