Liquidspacehead

I recently got myself a beautiful 2012 Salsa Casseroll and let me tell ya, DREAM COME TRUE. I have some maintenance I would like to do to her but I am also slightly a novice to the sense. I want to start by asking is this bike (stock with cantilever brakes) capable to install v brakes??

hokiefyd 

Yes, but there will be some considerations. You'll need different or adjustable brake levers. Linear pull brakes ("V Brakes") are long pull brakes, and cantilever brakes are short pull brakes. You very likely won't be able to get linear pull brakes adjusted correctly with your current levers. You'll either run out of lever travel before you get full braking, or you'll need to set the pads so close to the rim that they'll rub or drag.

The rear brake may need a cable stop along the top tube, if you have exposed brake cable, or full length cable housing to the rear brake. Your cantilevers likely use a cable stop on a brake bridge, centered behind the seat post; this will no longer be used with linear pull brakes.

Other than those two items (brake lever pull and rear cable stop considerations), linear pull brakes will physically mount to the frame and fork and provide a similar range of pad placement/adjustment as the cantilevers. Linear pull brakes almost exclusively use threaded posts on the brake pads. Cantilevers use either threaded posts or smooth posts. If you're buying new linear pull brakes, they'll come with pads and that won't be a problem. If you're buying used linear pull brakes, you may also need different brake pads.

One final option: you can get "Mini V" brakes -- these are linear pull brakes with relatively short arms designed to be compatible with short pull brake levers. I've used these before and they do work well. You would probably be able to keep your levers, but you'll still have the rear brake cable consideration noted above.

dsbrantjr

I see no reason as regards performance to replace cantilever brakes with V-brakes, properly adjusted cantis give fine braking performance. Ditch the link wires if it has them and replace them with straddle wires and carriers (I use Problem Solvers Wide cable carriers) and keep the carriers low to the tire. Add some Kool Stop salmon pads and you should be good to go, or stop, actually.

Andrew R Stewart 

As the industry has moved on from cantis the skill to set them up well is also fading. V's are quicker to set up and in a shop time is money, so no wonder cantis are not anywhere as popular as they were (in the world of rim brakes). Andy (who has no bikes with V's)

AeroGut

Most Casserolls are set up with drop bars, so I'm guessing you have drop bars with combined brake lever/shifters? In that case, changing just the brake lever in order to get long pull is not really an option. Instead, you would need to use something like the Problem Solvers "Travel Agent" to get the right cable pull for v-brakes.
As others have said, it's probably easier to either stick with the cantilevers or use mini v-brakes instead of regular v-brakes. If you don't like adjusting the cantilever brakes, there are some models like the Tektro CR720 that use threaded stem pads and are easier to setup. Easier means less adjustable, though, so you need to check first that the spacing of the mounts is appropriate for those brakes.

hokiefyd 

I have a set of Tektro CR510s on my Trek 750, and they work really well. I prefer the simplicity of link wires, and you can tune the system with those, too (just use shorter ones). I have link wires that are just short enough that they sit at a little over 90 degrees when at rest (these are nominally supposed to be "at" 90 degrees). I keep the return spring tension on the brake arms themselves to a minimum (I use just enough to balance both sides, and nothing more), and I don't have return springs in my brake levers (I have flat bar levers on a trekking/butterfly bar) and the braking action is very light and very easy to modulate. They're truly 1-finger brakes (with typical 3-finger levers!).

Liquidspacehead

See there is my problem. I cant properly adjust them and for some reason they just dont seem to want to line jo correctly. the set up on them is using a cable link if you think switching that type may help? I just want something I can learn the ins and outs of and be confident when I ride. Thank you guys for helping!! I guess I'll just keep trying! I just don't wanna mess anything up myself trying to learn on it.

Liquidspacehead

so I can tighten my cable tension (which is too low, my brake lever almost touches my handlebars) and loosen the spring tension? They are deff off on each side when it comes to hitting the rim... or should I just re do the cable with a new one?

dsbrantjr

That is why I dislike link wires, you can only adjust them by installing a different length one. The straddle cables can be infinitely adjusted at the clamp bolt. Here's a pretty good article on cantis, the author does not like link wires either....https://blackmtncycles.com/get-the-m...r-canti-brake/
First thing I would suggest is to install a set of Kool Stop salmon compound pads IMO they are the best.

andrewclaus

If you use a straddle cable, add a reflector bracket below it to catch the cable. The advantage of a link is safety. If using a straddle cable and the brake cable breaks or loosens, the straddle cable can grab the tire. If it's a front tire, that can be dangerous.

I had a bike with finicky canti breaks for over twenty years, and finally got tired of the endless minute adjustments needed to keep them tuned exactly right. I messed with those brakes nearly 100 times. The first few dozen times I was kind of clueless, but then I found the Sheldon Brown essay on them, which is excellent. Sure it can be done, but as noted above it takes time and skill to do it right. Now I get to mess with disk brakes for a couple more decades (I hope).

Mini V-brakes with road levers don't give any mechanical advantage over properly tuned cantis.

Liquidspacehead

So what style brakes are you using now? Disc?

hokiefyd 

I presume you've looked at Sheldon Brown's site on cantilever geometry and adjustment. It's mighty helpful in understanding how the forces at play interact with each other. Once you've done that, and you're now looking at the final cable adjustment, I would loosen the barrel adjuster at your brake lever all the way, if there is one. If there isn't, it would be good to have inline adjusters somewhere. But loosen the adjuster all the way, hold the pads against the rim while pulling the cable all the way tight through the link wire. Tighten the cable at that spot.

Now, your brakes should be very tight or at least severely dragging. Screw in the barrel adjuster until the brakes open up just enough to reliably not drag. This should get your pads adjusted very close to the rim and leave you with plenty of room at the lever.