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Steel Bikes Under 20 lbs

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Steel Bikes Under 20 lbs

Old 08-01-16, 09:36 AM
  #26  
D1andonlyDman
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My Lemond Zurich, which is made of Reynolds 853 with a CF fork and is 53.5cm size, and has an Ideale 80 saddle, weighs 20.5 lbs with a good clincher wheel set and not much else in the way of ultra-light components (It's all Shimano 600 tricolor). If I replaced the stem, bars, and seatpost with CF, and put a lighter saddle and lighter pedals and lighter tires on it, I could knock nearly two pounds off of it and get it under 19 lbs pretty easily - but I don't think that would be worth the money, and I prefer the leather saddle for comfort.

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Old 08-01-16, 10:02 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by plonz
Compelling article but I will have to file this one under "have to see it to believe it". Maaaaaybe if it was weighed with no accessories and pedals. Nah, that still wouldn't get it there. Take the tires off as well (which they admit to) and we might get an 18lb weigh in.
Reading the article, these were very much weight-weenie bikes, every component cut away to its bare functional minimum. The middle of the pedal body between the bearings was cut off, the inside and outside held together by the cage! Jeez. Check out the weird brake levers, too.
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Old 08-01-16, 10:10 AM
  #28  
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1990/91 Quattro Assi with ORIA RANF tubing in size 58cm with Carbon: rims, crankset, cages, stem, bars and seatpost. 1994 Selle Italia Flite saddle with Ti rails.

Weighed just over 19lbs without pedals or the saddle bag. By far my go to ride in my stable...

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Old 08-01-16, 10:33 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by D1andonlyDman
My Lemond Zurich, which is made of Reynolds 853 with a CF fork and is 53.5cm size, and has an Ideale 80 saddle, weighs 20.5 lbs with a good clincher wheel set and not much else in the way of ultra-light components (It's all Shimano 600 tricolor). If I replaced the stem, bars, and seatpost with CF, and put a lighter saddle and lighter pedals and lighter tires on it, I could knock nearly two pounds off of it and get it under 19 lbs pretty easily - but I don't think that would be worth the money, and I prefer the leather saddle for comfort.
Yeah, my 2000 Zurich is under 20 with pedals and bottle cages, it's a 55cm. My 2003 Tourmelet with a Dura Ace,Ultegra mix and Williams System 30 wheels is easier a pound lighter. It's a 53.
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Old 08-01-16, 10:34 AM
  #30  
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I'm pretty sure @jyl has at least one.
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Old 08-01-16, 10:41 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Bikerider007
I have been thinking about weighing a few of mine. What is everyone using as the standard? No pedals, no saddle, empty bottle cages? Or everything but bottles?
My method is everything to make it a rider except bottles, pump, and seat bag. My touring bikes do have the rear rack installed.

I have had enough grief making my old and older Cannondales to weigh 20 lb. or less with clinchers. I can also make my 20 lb. '99 CAAD3 triple lighter if I move the wheel set from the 3.0 onto it, but then neither bike is built as I want.

Brad
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Old 08-01-16, 10:50 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by cb400bill
My Trek 770 is pretty light. I'm sure I could get it under 20 lbs with a light weight saddle, a tubular wheelset, and no cages.



Love that bike. Recall seeing it at iab's Spring ride. Perfect as is and its my size.
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Old 08-01-16, 11:09 AM
  #33  
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IMO weight should include pedals and all normal running gear except accessories (water bottles, pumps, racks, etc.) Bottle cages I could go either way on, but they don't weigh much. However, the standard these days seems to be not to include pedals, presumably because bikes don't come with pedals anymore and customers choose their own. It's also a good way for the manufacturers to make their bikes seem lighter...

Anyhow, 20 pound steel bike was about normal for a good racing bike frankly. My Masi with race wheels was just over 20 lbs with no weight weenie parts. Subtract one pound for pedals and that makes it around 19.5 ish lbs by modern standards. It was a special edition with Columbus SL instead of 531 so perhaps it was a bit lighter than some. As normally ridden with 350g training rims it was/is ~21 lb.

I once had an 18.5 lb Mondia, including pedals! It was made up entirely with 70's tech. Frame was that superlight paper thin Reynolds 531. Jubilee derailleurs. The rest of it was 2nd generation Dura Ace. I wasn't trying for a super light bike and none of the components were particularly weight weenie. It just sort of happened. Tubular wheels of course. It was kind of whippy for me but worked well for the smaller person I sold it to.
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Old 08-01-16, 11:25 AM
  #34  
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As someone who rides a 64 cm bike (and whose weight requires more than minimalist tubing), I doubt my ass will ever grace the saddle of a sub 20 lb steel bike.
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Old 08-01-16, 11:27 AM
  #35  
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I like @lostarchitect's criterion for weighing a bike. It should be ready to ride (with pedals, bottle cages, etc) but with nothing on it that's not bolted on, so it excludes bags that strap on and bottles that insert into cages.
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Old 08-01-16, 11:34 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Bikerider007
I have been thinking about weighing a few of mine. What is everyone using as the standard? No pedals, no saddle, empty bottle cages? Or everything but bottles?
I weigh mine with everything needed to ride it, including pedals and saddle, and also include bottle cages. I don't include racks, fenders, or tool kit.

61cm 953 frame, 531 fork blades, one water bottle cage, 20.28 pounds.

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Old 08-01-16, 11:47 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by bradtx
My method is everything to make it a rider except bottles, pump, and seat bag. My touring bikes do have the rear rack installed.

I have had enough grief making my old and older Cannondales to weigh 20 lb. or less with clinchers. I can also make my 20 lb. '99 CAAD3 triple lighter if I move the wheel set from the 3.0 onto it, but then neither bike is built as I want.

Brad
I took off my water bottle and my frame pump when I weighed my PSV. As I also mentioned, I had my lightest tubular wheelset on the bike. Only thing different from the pic when I weighed it was I had much lighter pedals installed on the bike (Keo Classics, instead of the period correct, PP76's). Weighed it both on a hanging digital scale and the bathroom scale subtractive method many times....... Maybe I should take pics next time I weigh it again.......
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Old 08-01-16, 12:00 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by noglider
I like @lostarchitect's criterion for weighing a bike. It should be ready to ride (with pedals, bottle cages, etc) but with nothing on it that's not bolted on, so it excludes bags that strap on and bottles that insert into cages.
^I feel the same way. Bikes should be weighed ready to ride, and you cant ride a bike w/o pedals, obviously.

One question I have, are tubular wheels still significantly lighter than clinchers? I had thought with modern materials and different manufacturing techniques now that they weighed pretty close to each other. Or is that not true?

Oh and are sew-ups still used extensively - for instance are the Tour De France riders all on them?
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Old 08-01-16, 12:06 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by exmechanic89
One question I have, are tubular wheels still significantly lighter than clinchers? I had thought with modern materials and different manufacturing techniques now that they weighed pretty close to each other. Or is that not true?

Oh and are sew-ups still used extensively - for instance are the Tour De France riders all on them?
There are clincher wheels, and then there are clincher wheels. You can get ultra light clincher wheels but you pay a lot for them. Switching to tubulars is a cheap way to lose weight from the bike. One reason for that is that people try tubulars and decide against them, creating a glut of tubular wheels, pushing their value down.
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Old 08-01-16, 12:10 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by noglider
Switching to tubulars is a cheap way to lose weight from the bike. One reason for that is that people try tubulars and decide against them, creating a glut of tubular wheels, pushing their value down.
Yeah I've noticed that, on CL it seems like you can buy nice older tubular wheel sets pretty cheap compared to nice clincher sets. I used to ride on them myself in the late 70's but have no desire to anymore, lol. I'd probably pick up a nice set though as a 2nd set for riding if I ran into some amazing deal.
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Old 08-01-16, 12:29 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by bradtx
My method is everything to make it a rider except bottles, pump, and seat bag. My touring bikes do have the rear rack installed.

Brad
Originally Posted by Salamandrine
IMO weight should include pedals and all normal running gear except accessories (water bottles, pumps, racks, etc.) Bottle cages I could go either way on, but they don't weigh much. However, the standard these days seems to be not to include pedals, presumably because bikes don't come with pedals anymore and customers choose their own. It's also a good way for the manufacturers to make their bikes seem lighter...
Originally Posted by Scooper
I weigh mine with everything needed to ride it, including pedals and saddle, and also include bottle cages. I don't include racks, fenders, or tool kit.
Looks like a rare concensus :-) I think that is the most common sense way as well. I do see many newer don't include pedals in the weight and read somewhere (probably here) some don't includes saddles either but I want to be on the same page.

At least that seems to be the majority way to do it. Off topic but on the other hand, and probably best for another thread.... I have Italian frames marked CTC of top tube, I have American marked CTT (of seat tube). But I am pretty sure I also see some that seem quote CTT being the top of top tube. And many state size without clarifying which they are referring to.
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Old 08-01-16, 12:42 PM
  #42  
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Scooper's bike's saddle makes me think of, "The Wizard of Oz" :haha:

I haven't weighed it, but I'm pretty sure my Bob Jackson weighs a shade under 20 pounds. The Team Pro did when I had it built as a fixed-gear, but that isn't in the cards for that machine.
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Old 08-01-16, 01:48 PM
  #43  
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RE Bob Griffin

Here is my 1985 Bob Griffin weighs in at around 19lbs though I have had it just under 19lbs

Small handbuilt Time Trial Frame Reynolds 531 Pro about 52/53 CM fairly short wheelbase

Mavic GL330 rims with lightish tubs on and Campag Record Hubs

Rest of Groupset Campagnolo GS or Record, what really helps with the weight is the alloy 13-18 Maillard block.

Lack of Chrome and small frame really keeps the weight down, have some lighter tubs to go on it which should save 100+ gramms !!
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Old 08-01-16, 01:54 PM
  #44  
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my Condor steel bike weighs under 20 lbs when I remove the back rack and fenders:



I also had a Koga Miyata that weighed even less
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Old 08-01-16, 04:47 PM
  #45  
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I've had one steel bike under 20, my Strawberry custom. What I've discovered, though, is a pound or 4 here or there has no impact on how well a bike rides, how light it feels on the road or how well it climbs, so I stopped worrying about it. I've had light bikes that felt dead and slow and heavy ones that felt quick and light. About the only time I can tell the difference in weight is when carrying a bike up the stairs. Other than that weight has become my last priority. If you want to do it as a fun project, go for it, though. Weight weenie parts tend to look cool, anyway.
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Old 08-01-16, 06:09 PM
  #46  
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Old 08-01-16, 06:30 PM
  #47  
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EL-OS with a carbon fiber fork. Mostly 600 parts. 19.2 lbs. Lighter wheels and tires, 7700 group might drop it by a pound. I wish it had fit me as it was a rocket.

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Old 08-01-16, 06:38 PM
  #48  
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My Merckx is 19.9lbs ready to ride. Columbus SL. I got there with modern components. I have alloy Athena, if I went carbon I could be even lighter. I'll be buying a 0 degree Thompson stem soon. This is all I had at the time and -17 degrees didn't work for me so it's ugly for now



My Ironman is 21.8 with the frame pump and all. If I cared I could get it under 20 pretty easily.

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Old 08-01-16, 07:07 PM
  #49  
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So, I was curious. Just got home and put the Giordana XL Super on the scale. 20 lbs 8 ozs without any attempt (yet) at weight reduction. Excel Podium steel frame with a steel Excel Eco fork, heavy Miche hubbed wheels laced at 32 spokes to Open Pro rims and mounted with GP 4000s II tires. Basic Look Keo pedals, Origin 8 pump, two bottle cages, garmin computer mount, and two garmin sensors. The only thing not on it from how I ride it is the kit bag and bottles. This thing will easily be under 20 lbs when the Campagnolo Shamal wheels ever show up (Probikekit is so slow to get product from compared to Merlins).



Pretty much just like this with the Garmin stuff and pump added and the saddle bag gone.



Built with a 11 speed Campagnolo Athena Groupset. 56 CM bike

A total joy to ride as you see it.


By comparision this is the "more modern" steel bike with a wheelset about a pound lighter than the Giordana's and a carbon fiber fork instead of steel. The frame is a 53 cm made from Reynolds 853 in the main triangle and something else in the rest. This too weighed with pedals, saddle, pump, bottle cages, sensors, etc. This is a mismatch of Dura Ace/Ultegra 9 speed stuff with a Wickwerks 53/34 (yeah that's right 53/34 and it shifts like a dream!!) chain ring setup.

19 lbs 14 ozs

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Old 08-01-16, 07:44 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Scooper
I weigh mine with everything needed to ride it, including pedals and saddle, and also include bottle cages. I don't include racks, fenders, or tool kit.

61cm 953 frame, 531 fork blades, one water bottle cage, 20.28 pounds.

That's crazy cool for such a large frame!
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