Rust removal
#1
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Rust removal
Has anyone tried automotive iron removers to lessen small rust spots/flecks on chrome?
If so, any negative effects?
If so, any negative effects?
#2
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Not sure exactly what product you are thinking of but I yesterday I used barkeepers friend for rust on chrome forks. Bottle said not for paint so I rinsed immediately then waxed. Now chrome shines like a baby's butt with zero rust left. 60 seconds on and wiped off.
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I'd never heard of this product, so I did a bit of searching. You've probably already read as much, but I did find comments in some auto forums about Iron-X. (For example: https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...rome-trim.html) For what it's worth, some users note the product description indicates *not* to use it on chrome. However, some users say they have used it on chrome with no ill effects, but not to let it dry before wiping off. Again, no personal experience, but if the product description says to avoid chrome, then I'd be reluctant to try on some beautiful chrome lugs. I'm happy enough with oxalic acid not to try to reinvent the wheel.
#5
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I've had good luck with aluminum foil on the chrome handlebars on my 1980s Schwinn Traveler. I learned about it on a forum like this. Worked great.
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I swore by aluminum foil then I tried #0000 steel wool and WD-40. It was a lot less work and took off rust spots that the foil didn't get. I thought the chrome was gone but the steel wool and WD got it off to reveal good chrome with just a tiny pit at the center of what had been a 1/4" rust scab! And I don't mean surface rust either, I expected the chrome to be gone and just bare pitted steel underneath, that's how nasty it looked. This was on a pair of chrome wheels with multiple spots like this. They went from rusty to shiny, I also used it to clean up the zinc plated spokes. They cleaned up quite a bit, not "like new" by any means but they were much better. This is supposed to work on wanted metal as well then followed up with polishing compound, I haven't tried that yet.
Last edited by Murray Missile; 12-12-19 at 06:10 AM.
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I swore by aluminum foil then I tried #0000 steel wool and WD-40. It was a lot less work and took off rust spots that the foil didn't get. I thought the chrome was gone but the steel wool and WD got it off to reveal good chrome with just a tiny pit at the center of what had been a 1/4" rust scab! And I don't mean surface rust either, I expected the chrome to be gone and just bare pitted steel underneath, that's how nasty it looked. This was on a pair of chrome wheels with multiple spots like this. They went from rusty to shiny, I also used it to clean up the zinc plated spokes. They cleaned up quite a bit, not "like new" by any means but they were much better.
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#8
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Never tried it. Seems like it would work. You can be the first on this forum and give us a report... The active ingredient is apparently thiioglycolic acid. Apparently it smells really bad. Carpro claims it's safe on chrome, FWIW.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thioglycolic_acid
I prefer Barkeeper's Friend myself. Cheap and effective, and can't scratch the chrome. Also does double duty because it's great for cleaning up stainless steel pots and pans.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thioglycolic_acid
I prefer Barkeeper's Friend myself. Cheap and effective, and can't scratch the chrome. Also does double duty because it's great for cleaning up stainless steel pots and pans.
#9
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Yes Murray Missile, steel wool and WD-40 is magic!! I use the #00 steel wool on chrome and various other metal components and they come out looking brand new. For really nasty rust, Evapo-Rust is my go to. It is truly amazing. There is no harsh smell, and It's safe to use on pretty much any material (at least in my experience). I've soaked anything and everything in Evapo-Rust, and the rust just falls off. Surfaces come out feeling smooth and conditioned. It's especially great for those smaller parts and components with hard to reach places (derailleurs, calipers, stems, inside head tubes/seat tubes/handle bars, between threads and inside screw heads etc.). After soaking, I spray with WD-40 and polish with steel wool if needed. I tried the Rust-Oleum liquid rust dissolver but I didn't like the results or the appearance of the metal when it came out. Metal surfaces felt rough/chapped and looked discolored. I soaked a section of a rusted chain in the Rust-oleum and the links cracked and seized up. There was also a weird white residue in the joints and on the surface, almost like oxidized zinc. I threw the rest of the chain in Evapo-rust and it came out rust free and freely mobile. I've checked out several auto-part stores and the only rust removers I've found are Rustoleum and occasionally Evapo-Rust. Advance Auto Parts is the only place I've found Evapo-Rust in stock on the shelves. I buy it on amazon now because I can get it $10 cheaper with prime. Another bonus is that you can reuse it dozens and dozens of times, so I don't have to buy it often.
#10
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I’ll stick with oxalic acid. Cheap and effective. No need to repeat what has been said 4,879 times already.
i avoid ALL abrasives.
i avoid ALL abrasives.
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#11
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If you know how chrome plating stacks up on a steel part, it makes it easier to address. Chrome is the "clear coat" over the shiny nickel. The rust creeps from the steel base to the micro-fractured chrome surface. You don't want to use abrasives that could remove the protective chrome plating.
#12
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This is a special project. I am trying to remove rust from engravings on a fork crown. An initial test seems to indicate that it will work extremely well, much better than OA.
On top of that, I had some left over Iron-X from some car detailing.
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I agree with avoiding all abrasives, be it aluminum foil or Barkeepers Friend.
This is a special project. I am trying to remove rust from engravings on a fork crown. An initial test seems to indicate that it will work extremely well, much better than OA.
On top of that, I had some left over Iron-X from some car detailing.
This is a special project. I am trying to remove rust from engravings on a fork crown. An initial test seems to indicate that it will work extremely well, much better than OA.
On top of that, I had some left over Iron-X from some car detailing.
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