Moving to Racing geometry frame
01-15-19, 06:46 PM
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Moving to Racing geometry frame
HI ,
i had an endurance road bike "scott speedster 2015" with endurance geometry , headtube is 13.5 cm , stem spacers originally installed with bike is 4 cm .
I purchased a new frame "scott addict rc 2011" , it have racing geometry with 10.3 "cm head tube "3 cm more than the speedster" , slightly longer reach and top tube .
i feel that riding on the hood on my speedster had more upright position than i want , however i can't ride on the drops for long time .
now when i'm installing the new frame , i need to take measurements to cut the fork ( stack on new frame will be 3 cm lower) .. i'm not sure how much spacers i should use at first ..
i had an endurance road bike "scott speedster 2015" with endurance geometry , headtube is 13.5 cm , stem spacers originally installed with bike is 4 cm .
I purchased a new frame "scott addict rc 2011" , it have racing geometry with 10.3 "cm head tube "3 cm more than the speedster" , slightly longer reach and top tube .
i feel that riding on the hood on my speedster had more upright position than i want , however i can't ride on the drops for long time .
now when i'm installing the new frame , i need to take measurements to cut the fork ( stack on new frame will be 3 cm lower) .. i'm not sure how much spacers i should use at first ..
01-15-19, 08:26 PM
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Start high, & lower the bars as you feel like it.
No need to cut the steerer tube right away.
Some folks raise & lower bars depending on season, fitness, etc.
No need to cut the steerer tube right away.
Some folks raise & lower bars depending on season, fitness, etc.
01-19-19, 10:28 AM
#3
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Don't cut the steerer just yet. Set the bike up and install stem at highest or lowest position using spacers to take up the slack above or below the stem. Ride it and over a few weeks add or subtract spacers to get the desired stem setting. Then mark and cut. I always leave at least 10mm extra steerer above the stem for a "just in case" scenario, and spring time break in of the back to the position after a long winter break.
01-20-19, 02:33 PM
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Don't cut the steerer just yet. Set the bike up and install stem at highest or lowest position using spacers to take up the slack above or below the stem. Ride it and over a few weeks add or subtract spacers to get the desired stem setting. Then mark and cut. I always leave at least 10mm extra steerer above the stem for a "just in case" scenario, and spring time break in of the back to the position after a long winter break.
01-21-19, 01:02 PM
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You have a good start by understanding the stack and reach of your frames. If you know the reach of your handlebars and the angle of your stem and the amount of spacers then you can duplicate your position by using this online frame comparison tool www.velogicfit.com go to the products drop down menu and select frame comparison and scroll down to the bottom of the page for the free access. Input all the specs from your old bike (select in the drop down menu) and adjust the stem and spacer info to get to the new position you want on the new bike. You will need to know the specs of both frames. This will get you an Hx Hy measurement which is the center of the bore for the handlebars. If using the same bars then no problem, however if they are different then add or subtract the difference of handlebar reach measurements to your current setup ( add if new bars reach is greater than old, opposite if shorter). That will give you the position to the hoods! Makes the numbers equal as possible and your positions will be the same, if you want higher or lower, more reach or less, make adjustments within the calculator.
01-28-19, 02:41 PM
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You have a good start by understanding the stack and reach of your frames. If you know the reach of your handlebars and the angle of your stem and the amount of spacers then you can duplicate your position by using this online frame comparison tool www.velogicfit.com go to the products drop down menu and select frame comparison and scroll down to the bottom of the page for the free access. Input all the specs from your old bike (select in the drop down menu) and adjust the stem and spacer info to get to the new position you want on the new bike. You will need to know the specs of both frames. This will get you an Hx Hy measurement which is the center of the bore for the handlebars. If using the same bars then no problem, however if they are different then add or subtract the difference of handlebar reach measurements to your current setup ( add if new bars reach is greater than old, opposite if shorter). That will give you the position to the hoods! Makes the numbers equal as possible and your positions will be the same, if you want higher or lower, more reach or less, make adjustments within the calculator.
02-14-19, 10:57 PM
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Fore / aft
I know I’m late to the party, but pay attention to your saddle fore-aft position in relation to the bottom bracket. I just went from a gravel bike to a road bike and positioned my seat the same as the gravel bike. The difference in seat tube angle put my seat on the road bike more than 2.5cm too far forward, but I didn’t realize this until I rode on some hilly terrain and trashed my knees.
02-15-19, 09:15 AM
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I know I’m late to the party, but pay attention to your saddle fore-aft position in relation to the bottom bracket. I just went from a gravel bike to a road bike and positioned my seat the same as the gravel bike. The difference in seat tube angle put my seat on the road bike more than 2.5cm too far forward, but I didn’t realize this until I rode on some hilly terrain and trashed my knees.
I had a zero setback seatpost in my older frame , i tend to move my hips back while i'm riding , so i thought i needed a more setback seatpost .
so to be in safe side i purchased a seat post with flip flop clamp "FSA SL-K ITC 0/15" ... which have both 0 and 15 mm setback option just in case "specially the new frame have 2 cm longer reach" ..
it's sold for around 50$/new on ebay , it's a carbon/alloy reinforced seatpost , really nice seatpost .
02-15-19, 09:39 AM
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well , it's never late , thanks for giving your input , hope you got better ..
I had a zero setback seatpost in my older frame , i tend to move my hips back while i'm riding , so i thought i needed a more setback seatpost .
so to be in safe side i purchased a seat post with flip flop clamp "FSA SL-K ITC 0/15" ... which have both 0 and 15 mm setback option just in case "specially the new frame have 2 cm longer reach" ..
it's sold for around 50$/new on ebay , it's a carbon/alloy reinforced seatpost , really nice seatpost .
I had a zero setback seatpost in my older frame , i tend to move my hips back while i'm riding , so i thought i needed a more setback seatpost .
so to be in safe side i purchased a seat post with flip flop clamp "FSA SL-K ITC 0/15" ... which have both 0 and 15 mm setback option just in case "specially the new frame have 2 cm longer reach" ..
it's sold for around 50$/new on ebay , it's a carbon/alloy reinforced seatpost , really nice seatpost .
02-15-19, 11:19 AM
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Thanks, man. Not 100% yet, but getting there. My Kestrel has a seat post that can be flipped in either direction, but I can't imagine flipping it forward. I'm 5' 9-1/2" riding a 55cm frame, and because of my femur length, I have to slam the saddle all the way back to the "max" line.
I'm short , but i have the same issue , relatively long femur compared to my body , FSA SL-K had 20/-10 setback seatpost .. but also i didn't imagine riding a negative setback , so i got the 0/15 version so i have the chance to set a zero setback in case i had any back issue or something and wanted to flip the saddle ...
there's a +25 and +35 setback posts as well ..
i had the specialized Romin evo saddle like in pic .. it help me to be in a more backward position comfortably ..
02-15-19, 12:53 PM
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Got any photos of it fully assembled? Mine isn't so flashy. Just dark blue with white lettering. I'd post a photo, but I'm not allowed to yet. 😂😢
02-15-19, 01:49 PM
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it's on the way by post now , may post a pic when it's fully assembled .
02-18-19, 10:20 AM
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It should be simple to get the bars to the same height as your old bike. Just take a vertical measurement from the floor to the center of the bars on the old bike and put enough spacer under the stem to get the same height on the new bike. The Addict has a 10mm lower BB, so the bars should also be 10mm lower to get the same fit.
All that said, it's not wise to be using 30-40mm of spacer under the stem. If you need the bars that high, then use a stem with more upward angle. Neither solution looks pretty, but the stem angle solution is sturdier.
All that said, it's not wise to be using 30-40mm of spacer under the stem. If you need the bars that high, then use a stem with more upward angle. Neither solution looks pretty, but the stem angle solution is sturdier.
02-18-19, 12:18 PM
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don't try this at home.
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Measuring stack and reach
Stack and reach are posted for most new bikes. It's a good way to compare different frames for fit.
Got an older bike?
Here's a simple method for measuring your bike's stack and reach. Link to my thread post.
And I commented on how I use stack and reach and a stem angle calculator in this post.
(It's probably a little late for this thread, but useful for other riders.)
Stack and reach are posted for most new bikes. It's a good way to compare different frames for fit.
Got an older bike?
Here's a simple method for measuring your bike's stack and reach. Link to my thread post.
And I commented on how I use stack and reach and a stem angle calculator in this post.
(It's probably a little late for this thread, but useful for other riders.)
Last edited by rm -rf; 02-18-19 at 12:22 PM.
