RLinNH

Placing a deposit on a new bike today, and I have a question in regards to Di2. Does wet weather affect the electronics? I was 100% convinced to stay old school and stick with Ultegra Mechanical, but this thread has me rethinking that...

Cyclist0108

Different hubs vary slightly. In my case, I need about 4 Di2 micro-adjustment clicks when I change one wheel for another. (I also need to adjust the disc brake caliper slightly on the rear, but not the front.)

Cyclist0108

No, it is perfectly fine, and quite robust. I ride mine in wet and mud all the time.

Doge

I can't tell you exact wires as I'm a Di2 fan I keep a bunch.
The Venge a few posts up is more conventional wiring and used for racing/traveling. This bike routing has downsides and is a specialty bike and won't be flown or disassembled. So I did different. If I swapped Shimano for WeightWeenie parts it would be <11lbs, but as is this handles full power like a "normal" bike.

The wiring...
Ritchey Solo Stream bars are hollow in the stem to bar region. Like many carbon fiber bars there may be left over inflatable bag debris so I use a hanger piece to route/push through. Each lever has 3 sockets in it.
Right brake lever has wire routed along the brake route to left brake lever. So left brakes is a junction. I drilled inside the brake channel a hole see the Di2 wire at the end of the red line. And then there is one on the other side.
MASI2.0 Di2 Wire.JPG
The sprint shifteres are both using a lever socket. So now the left is using all 3 sockets, the right is using 2 (3rd for the new Junction A HB end one).
From the left lever I route back into bar and through stem. The Ritchey stem attaches in a wide area on the fork. I have a smaller expander bolt (like the Extralite one). I drilled a hole in the fork tube from inside the stem to below the expander bolt. It was routed with the stem half on so I could come over the top of the fork tube. The is about 1" of area there. The exit is into the head tube area and on the MASI it is huge. Once routed, I replace the star washer and stem as normal. The bar can turn full right left. The only "real" structural compromise hole is the exit hole. It is just the diameter of the connector and below the bearing.
That wire runs all the way down the down tube to junction B (not needed if I wanted longer wires going to junction A) but saves wire). B is above the wheels mfg BB and routes to FD and RD and loge wire up seat post to Junction A using the 1st socket. 2nd socket routes down seat post to battery which I keep above the BB - loose, well taped with electrical tape. It does not rattle. I have 3 sockets left on junction A.

Future plan (soon). Go from junction B to battery in seat post using the same wire that goes to Junction A. So there is no exit. Use HB End Junction A for the 3rd free socket in right brake lever.
MASI2.0 Front.jpg

Doge

I later went to hot glue gun on the stem mount on Venge. It comes off 2X a year or so, then I hot glue the mount again.

Doge

I mention all the time, maybe not in this post, that that Venge is a traveling race bike, so a few things from that.

Mechanics regularly pressure wash bikes. That has messed up a number of bearings, tires, but never Di2.

A flat means a spare wheel, and it is often not yours, or sometimes even your team's. The wheel goes on and the rider rides immediately. There adjustments happen when riding, by the rider - cables need adjustments too.

The Di2 micro adjustment works real well and unlike cables is not under tension when adjusting.

RLinNH

Thanks for the quick responses. Just got home from placing a deposit on a Parlee Altum Disc, with the Di2 upgrade. Now the waiting game...

Cyclist0108

Oh that is nice. I am going to get me one of them. It will be a nice Fourier transform.

MidTNBrad

Looks areo too, so make that a Fast Fourier transform!

B1KE

Is it true when you get Di2 that you never have to adjust the rear derailleur again? I heard thats one of the pros from a marketing perspective but I want to hear real world perspectives.

MidTNBrad

@B1KE I bought my Cervelo R3 Ultegra Di2 in May of 2016 and haven't needed to adjust the rear derailleur at all. I have about 2,500 miles on it. Been very pleased so far.

FlashBazbo

I've been riding Di2 since the beginning -- EIGHT years ago. After the initial installation, I have only had to adjust a rear derailleur once. And that was when an LBS mechanic forgot to put the spacer behind the cassette when he mounted it to the wheel. Okay, twice. I adjusted it again after I put the spacer in.


I do not miss the annual cable replacement and bi-monthly derailleur adjustment of cable-actuated systems. Di2 is set-it-and-forget-it.

FeltF2Tarmac

And my experience is the same. March of 2014 and zero adjustments needed. Works exactly like it did the day I picked it up from the LBS.

FlashBazbo

Road Di2 was tested as a Cyclocross groupset before it came to the road. Lots of mud and muck. And I used Di2 in the 10th Dirty Kanza 200 (the muddiest, wettest ever) and everything worked perfectly from start to finish. In fact, most mechanical setups had real problems during that DK200, but my Di2 never gave a moment's trouble -- it shifted as if it were dry and clean. After the race, my daughter pressure washed the bike. No problems for the Di2.

chong67

Get a 1x11. Only one string to mess with at the rear.

Marcus_Ti

In exchange for much wider gear spacing,or not high or low enough gear, or never having the right gear

Doge

Correct - if you keep the same wheel/cassette.

dmanthree

I've had mine very wet twice with no ill effects. Everything works perfectly.

TimothyH

Thanks for this.

I had read that the latest gen Di2 doesn't care where anything is plugged in as long as all the parts are connected and your post confirms.

This opens up a whole world of creative installations. Has me thinking...

Thanks again.


-Tim-

TimothyH

Thanks for pointing this out.

Here is a link to the manufacturer's website.

FOURIERS :: Products


-Tim-

Doge

As in PRIOR/current Di2. It is technically a service buss. Same general thing being done in most computers. The new stuff has connectors/junctions. I get RF is easier. I mentioned before I was using RF in early 90s. I started my son on RF (MAVIC) and he was riding right up till 2014 on radio. Just Shimano so much better stuff.

Doge

I have a few of those (other brands). They should ideally match the angle of your stem. They allow a gap - normally. They also introduce a spacer you may/may not want.

I do not reccomend them, although some do very well with them.

I hot glue my Junction A bracket and it is much cleaner. Go for the bar end junction A. Nothing will beat that.