Specific rear rim needs.
#1
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pleas delete, double posted.
I need your help folks. As Clydes, we know that rear rims are a common weak point, and I am currently feeling the wobble woes. After a particularly aggressive ride through downtown today (hopping off of curbs at high velocity, deep carving into corners to my music, and super aggressive accel and decel) I have a really bad wobble in my 32 spoke rim.I know that at my weight I shouldn't ride this hard on so few spokes, and I admit that I tend to learn lessons the hard way but in my defense, the roads were empty getting off of work so I had some fun.
On to what I need. I need a heavy duty rim and hub. My current rim, hub, and freewheel are a 700c double wall alloy, shimano FH-RM35, and A shimano CS HG200 13-32T 8 speed respectively. I want to keep my current freewheel and disc setup (Shimano M355 hydraulic w/ 160 mm 6 bolt disc). I have a $200 US budget and don't mind older parts. I need at least 36 spokes, and will be having my LBS hand build it, however there is a local coop that trade work hours for access (8 hours volunteering/mo) and I wouldn't mind building it myself to learn and teach. I was looking into a Velocity Chukker wheel on the rear unless anyone knows of some seriously bulletproof rims for a deal. I'm biasing on the side of overkill since my riding is extremely varied. One day I may ride 30 miles on decent paved bike trails. And others where I am riding like an absolute maniac on empty streets.
Also. Wheel weight isn't a big issue to me. I'm not a person that stresses lightweight parts, I can always overcome bike weight through training. I also prefer a black rim that supports higher pressure tires.
Thanks in advance, I look forward to hearing your suggestions.
On to what I need. I need a heavy duty rim and hub. My current rim, hub, and freewheel are a 700c double wall alloy, shimano FH-RM35, and A shimano CS HG200 13-32T 8 speed respectively. I want to keep my current freewheel and disc setup (Shimano M355 hydraulic w/ 160 mm 6 bolt disc). I have a $200 US budget and don't mind older parts. I need at least 36 spokes, and will be having my LBS hand build it, however there is a local coop that trade work hours for access (8 hours volunteering/mo) and I wouldn't mind building it myself to learn and teach. I was looking into a Velocity Chukker wheel on the rear unless anyone knows of some seriously bulletproof rims for a deal. I'm biasing on the side of overkill since my riding is extremely varied. One day I may ride 30 miles on decent paved bike trails. And others where I am riding like an absolute maniac on empty streets.
Also. Wheel weight isn't a big issue to me. I'm not a person that stresses lightweight parts, I can always overcome bike weight through training. I also prefer a black rim that supports higher pressure tires.
Thanks in advance, I look forward to hearing your suggestions.
Last edited by wingedbulldozer; 08-26-16 at 04:46 PM. Reason: Spelling errors
#2
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Rim width and depth are the largest contributors to wheel and spoke durability. Our tandem team weight is currently 286. We run 36H Kinlin XC279 rims and CX-Ray spokes. They've stayed very true even over cobblestones. Ordinary 14-15 double butted spokes would be just fine, too. I buy the parts and build my own wheels, but you could buy the parts and have a reputable wheel builder do them for you. Not just the LBS guy, but a known wheel specialist. The rims are described here: Kinlin XC279 - 23mm wide - 28mm deep (BHS C472w)
BHS will put together a package for you with correct length spokes.
BHS will put together a package for you with correct length spokes.
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#3
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Excellent, I just need a 36h hub that will fit in my frame, gotta get in contact with Norco on that theough (the hub model comes in 2 sizes).
#4
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#5
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As a man of my size, I have nothing but good things to say about this bike. Nothing is giving me issues and I love it.
#6
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As a Rule part of what weakens rear wheels Is the dish to make room for more speeds on the Drive side cassette..
A tall triangle with a small base width and not equilateral [advantage : IGH]
keeping up the service so wheel's spokes remain in tension balance, by not letting spokes get looser,
will keep wheel acting as a Whole.
A tall triangle with a small base width and not equilateral [advantage : IGH]
keeping up the service so wheel's spokes remain in tension balance, by not letting spokes get looser,
will keep wheel acting as a Whole.
#7
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And the issue is that my rim is dished to accommodate the 8 speed cassette in the back. The rim is laced in a cross 2 pattern, but I will be going to a cross 3 for the new 36 rear. My issue really lies in the dishing of the spokes. Is dishing harder than threading symmetrically, and should I do a cross 2 on the drive side, and cross 3 on the disc side?
The LBS wants to sell me a prebuilt velocity chukker rim with a steel axle rear hub for $230. Another LBS want's to sell me a rear hub for 80, and I can get the rim for 50 and the third hasn't gotten me a price yet. As much as I want to build it, I have little to no access to a truing stand, and the labor for the rim will still bring me up to the same price (if not more) than the velocity prebuilt. What say you?
The LBS wants to sell me a prebuilt velocity chukker rim with a steel axle rear hub for $230. Another LBS want's to sell me a rear hub for 80, and I can get the rim for 50 and the third hasn't gotten me a price yet. As much as I want to build it, I have little to no access to a truing stand, and the labor for the rim will still bring me up to the same price (if not more) than the velocity prebuilt. What say you?