burnthesheep

Ahhhhh. Sorry. I pictured something else in my head. I run the Aerocoach angled UCI extensions and my shims are only for the arm pad. Since it's only for the arm pad, there are slots instead of holes. So, it works given the bevel washer under the bolts.

For what you have there....if those are the nylon/plastic or 3d printed, they only tilt the arm rests.

For a week I did tilt the whole thing with those. I didn't like the outcome, but I did for a week figure something out while waiting for my parts to come in. I bought stainless threaded rod off of Amazon and then bent it at 15 degrees right where it goes through the 15 degree shim. Then I used a nylon/stainless lock washer under the basebar instead of a bolt. To assemble the whole deal I would thread the rod into the pole clamp, then slide on the angle shim, then slide the rods through the base bar. Then attached the nut.

It worked, but given they sell a part to resolve that.....my solution was just a junky "hold over". Plus, all the cussing and stuff to do that it was a mess. Given the torque needed on the pole clamp to basebar, I'm pretty sure doing my little stunt ruined my 3d printed shims. They crushed.

So, I traced them out and made some out of aluminum to replace them.

For tilting the arm rests and pole clamp together, I would use this (or equivalent): https://drag2zero.co.uk/product/shims/

For tilting just the arm rests, use the 3d printed shim you have and buy some hi-rise style extensions (51 Speedshop or Aerocoach alloy bars are affordable)

Here is my current setup: 15 deg shim under arm rests, 35 deg UCI rise extensions... their 25 deg ones def conform for UCI, the 35 ones I have can if you setup really careful
I have these parts:
https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/store/A...ons-p202129410
https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/store/A...sts-p202122566
https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/store/A...sts-p202129361

rubiksoval

Ah, yeah, that makes sense.

Wow, those arms pad sides are way higher than I thought. I can see the issue moving to the brakes the first few times before you got used to it. Looks like it'd be a lot more comfortable, though.

I'll have to look through the various parts and pieces. I didn't realize the depths you could go to in aerobar adjustments and tinkering. Looks like it can get even more involved than the rest of the bike fit.

Pretty cool setup, though. Thanks for the links!

Hermes

3 days of skiing and 28k of vertical feet. My legs are uncommitted this morning and refuse to forecast how much skiing they have in them. They are in their UPOD mode - under promise over deliver. At races my legs have been in the OPUD mode - over promise and under deliver and I hated that.

Great weather and Blue bird skiing so far and all at Deer Vally Mountain Resort, Utah. We are skiing on mostly man made snow with most areas are open and skiing is good / excellent.

burnthesheep

Yet again mucking around with a noise from the SRAM DUB BB area. I reinstalled, regreased, and inserted a wafer thin plastic spacer I may have forgotten. If that doesn't work, I may be replacing the bearing. Ring is tight, pedals tight (swapped pedals/shoes to verify, noise remained), rewaxed the chain, etc....

Definitely is in the width spacers and bearings somewhere.

Hermes

Maybe need Loctite on the BB. However, it needs to be the correct strength and I have my LBS do that selection.

burnthesheep

For threaded? I'm threaded, I usually grease the threads with that Park Tool stuff.

rubiksoval

Just bought a NoPinz TT suit on ebay along with shoecovers. They look very nice.

I got a 70mm stem for the TT bike, and I took it out for about an hour last week. Much better position wise, and I wasn't shifting around in the seat at all. I did crack a knee cap the first time I stood up, so that's not optimal. Also, my elbows are so close together that I really can't turtle or get my head/shoulders lower on downhill sections where I typically ease up and try to tuck a bit more. I'll have to try and experiment a bit with that and may need to lower the pads 10mm or so...Not sure.

It's so cold and windy, but will hopefully have some better weather soon to give it a real test at full-intensity. It's tough to go too hard wearing 10 layers of clothing that I know is flapping all over the place.

Hermes

Putting ones arms close together causes the head to pop up. Generally, racers benefit from wider arms and a lower head position but a few can ride with very narrow arms and a perfectly turtled head. Not me.

rubiksoval

Is there a current TT convention without necessarily testing? Wider elbows narrowing at the hands? I can move my pads out one space I think, so maybe 2mm? Might be worth trying...

My road bike bars are 38s at the hoods, and I run my hands a bit to the inside there and have no problem turtling and or tucking a bit. Doesn't seem faster than the aero bars, though. Probably a compromise in there somewhere.

Hermes

I do not know of any convention. An old school theory was if your shoulders were wider, it was faster to have the pads and hands farther apart to allow the air to split. If you are more of an ectomorph, skinny with narrow shoulders, then pads and hands close together and form a wedge.

In the aero testing I have done, ERO emphasized head position and we ran test runs to show the difference of a turtled head v head up. We played around with cockpit setups in the studio and on the track to optimize CdA for my particular build. I have broad shoulders and long arms and a hump in my back similar to Lance. I am built like Lance but maybe longer arms and legs.

burnthesheep

I can't decide whether to keep an excess skinsuit or sell it. I've got two of the super nice number pocket Nopinz/Aerocoach suits. The covers. A set of aero socks. A cheapie Galibier suit that fits really "easy" and a good condition BP 3.3 that fits "race tight".

I feel for KOM chasing I'd wear the Galibier. The BP 3.3 is just too much a pain to get in/out of for funsies.

You all offload your old suits for like $75 or do you hang onto them "just in case"? I could always squeeze a base layer under either and do a cross race in it.

topflightpro

Personally, I have no interest in purchasing anyone's used bibs or skinsuits. I don't care how well they've been washed or maintained. I just don't want it. So, I say keep it and use it on a rainy day.

Hermes

I usually ride skin suits at the track even for training so old skin suits just stretch out and finally get thrown away.

burnthesheep

Come bonus time, this frameset is going to probably become a trainer rig. Clear is peeling badly and I can't go Di2 on it.

I really want to get into Di2. Seems to me getting a bike with it is the ticket, versus upgrade. The pricing is almost a free frameset sometimes and you're paying mostly for the Di2.

Not sure which frame I'll go with yet. It won't be disc. Rim brake. Likely used.

The tunnel data always points at the old P5's. But thing is the "not newest" ones can be $$ to setup to your fit if you do tilt and stuff like I do. Trinity's are everywhere but always seem to lose a bit in the tunnels.

What's keeping me from open mold is the whole fact of Di2 used or new being so expensive when not paired with a frameset. May as well go name brand at that point.

I wish more UK based sellers would be willing to ship via BikeFlights. Lots of good priced fast stuff over there. Sighhhh.

TMonk

If I was to hazard a guess, I'd say that my DA2 is from ~2014, so not much newer than yours is. For me it's probably and end-game frame, unless I get way more into ITT. We're trying to stack up to make a good payment in San Diego and it's not easy, as I'm sure that you're aware. A decent neighborhood too.

But, my MTB is a huge problem - at 650b and hardtail I just get smoked when it's downhill, flat or generally untechnical. I mean it's light and whippy and fun for my (solo) riding style, but I just get smoked by the big wheels and would probably race more MTB if I had a more capable bike. Also, my track bike doesn't excite me at all (Dolan PreCursa alu) and I want something carbon and space-ship like that's more fun. I could probably get something at the SDVA swap meet the next time it happens. Also, there's an informal/underground CX series in San Diego and I've always been intrigued by the athleticism that it requires, and...

TMonk

I am in a good place with my TT rig now - I have upgraded enough things to have the adjustability and configuration (1x, etap, etc) that I want. Now, I think I may have one or more local coaches help me with my position, and start doing some field testing (Chung) for components and clothing. With a new frame, I'd just be buying a little bit more speed, which I can't justify rn.

topflightpro

Wait, I thought you were done buying TT stuff?

burnthesheep

I need to look closer, but I think the clamping area on the 1.5 inches or so of seat mast on the frameset I have has a crack. Found this weekend.

topflightpro

Duct tape it.

burnthesheep

Rode it yesterday in good weather. Just warm enough to ride. Really really windy though. Some bike handling practice for sure. Had to grab top tube with the knees twice. Also at just over 75ft per mile elevation (rise over total ride dist) it wasn't exactly a really fun TT bike route. I just wanted to ride it. Avg speed was balls slow, the Wahoo kept feeling me moving track standing at a few stops. So, lots of 1mph in there. Lol. Means I suck at track stands.

I did during the ride yesterday a couple times go "do I really need to change this"???

I can't wait till next week. Forecast from the liars (weather people) says 60 deg and sun 4 of 5 days. Yesssss...............Maybe some 2x20 TT work that week outdoors in order.

One change will be the GP5000's are coming off the disc and 90mm HED wheels and the new Michelin Power TT is going on them. The 25mm GP5000 from the rear will go to the front of the road bike assuming no flat spotting on it. I couldn't care less about that 23 vs 25mm difference on the road bike.

rubiksoval

This bike, guys. Ohhhh....

https://cyclingtips.com/2021/02/the-...ain-and-a-58t/

There's a lot to unpack and drool over in this article.

rubiksoval

And along with that:

They mentioned the saddle

I tried an ISM years ago and didn't like it as it felt far too wide at the end. I moved to a Fizik Tritone and it was a bit better, but then I sold it.

I have a Specialized Romin on now, but I've only ridden the bike twice and for about 60 minutes each time, and it felt alright. Not great, but not terrible.

I might pick try to pick up an ISM or the Fizik Mistica (new version of Tritone) used and give it a go again. I really want to get dialed in to the TT bike and ride it more often once the polar vortex finally abates, and a properly comfortable saddle arrangement would help with that, I believe.

topflightpro

This was my experience as well. I keep going back to Fizik Ariones.

burnthesheep

I own the Mistica. It has a provision if the one you buy includes it, a behind seat rack. I don't run that for time trial, but do in training. I actually put three bottle racks on the seat rack. One for the saddle bag and then two bottles.

The Mistica has a bit more rounded edges versus the older Tritone. People complained the edges of Tritone were a little harsh sometimes.

"For the money" versus a brand new nicer ISM, the Mistica was my choice that I stick with.


As for that Aussie TT bike:
Whew, nice! I like the detail of the color matched aero large RD cage setup. Very clean cable free bike. The cheapest way into full on aero skewers are "Pinheadz" security skewers. They use a locking pattern similar to what you see on his bike at a fraction of the cost. I've actually not seen anyone near me running Cadex anything yet. We're not ballers, so there's that. But still, it seems like by now I would have seen some of the new Giant branded deep wheels around on a Propel or something. Interesting also still seeing wheels go from 90mm front to trispoke back to 90 back to quad spoke........ that Cadex quad spoke reminds me of the older Shimano 4-Rays. Then Shimano went to the trispoke. One of the legacy mysteries there was fork interaction of the spokes and what fork spacing was optimal for them. I wonder if with the modern stuff they considered that.

I saw an old narrow width HED 3d the other day go for $1k on Ebay. That's the 90mm deep trispoke they made. I think it was 90mm deep on the rim profile before hitting the spokes, weird looking thing.

I had a line on an older Trinity SL Pro local to me that was 10spd Di2 that was just a RD purchase from being 11spd. Looked great. Dude wanted way way too much though for a bike as old as it was, and he was the third owner. Some that are 6 years newer were going for less on Ebay that were already 11spd. If bonus pans out how they're predicting, I may go with a Trinity with Di2. Wait out the "Covid boom" till later summer when numbers come down and people go back to blowing cash on concerts, games, and stores other than bicycles and folks have done those "bucket list" triathlons.

rubiksoval

I bought a Mistica on Ebay for $60 bucks shipped this morning, so I'm looking forward to getting that.

I also got TriRig's aero skewers a while back when they had a sale. They're really nice; light and seemingly aero. They look cool, at least. Might even use them in crits, but would need to remember to have the torx tool rubberbanded to my pit wheels. A bit of a pain for what is probably zero gain, but... they look cool...

I also have a Tririg front brake on my bike, and took to taping a 2.5 mm wrench to my saddle rails at big races with neutral service in the event I got a narrower wheel and needed to adjust the brakes. Again, quite a bit of pain for likely zero gain. Fortunately haven't had a front flat yet in one of those races.

It's sorta irrational...