Wheel Dish vs Spoke Tension
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Wheel Dish vs Spoke Tension
Building a wheel. Not my first, but I am no pro wheel builder either. Using the Park TS-2.2 stand and the park tension meter.
Rim = Velocity Deep V
Hub = Shimano Deore XT M756A
Odd combo, I know, but that's beside the point
Onto the question.......Velocity says that tension should be 110kgf-130kgf. As it is, the drive side is at 110kgf all the way around and the non-drive side is at 150kgf all the way around. The wheel is near-perfectly true. Less than 1mm hop, but it wont come out so I will call that good. The problem is dish....it is about 1.5mm out on the dish. The rim needs to go TOWARDS the side that is already at 150kgm. So, I can tighten that side and get about 200+kgf on that side (way too much I think) and get dish just right OR i can loosen the side that is already at 110kgf and end up with way too low of tension on that side, but have good dish. Or leave it as is.
What do you think?
Rim = Velocity Deep V
Hub = Shimano Deore XT M756A
Odd combo, I know, but that's beside the point
Onto the question.......Velocity says that tension should be 110kgf-130kgf. As it is, the drive side is at 110kgf all the way around and the non-drive side is at 150kgf all the way around. The wheel is near-perfectly true. Less than 1mm hop, but it wont come out so I will call that good. The problem is dish....it is about 1.5mm out on the dish. The rim needs to go TOWARDS the side that is already at 150kgm. So, I can tighten that side and get about 200+kgf on that side (way too much I think) and get dish just right OR i can loosen the side that is already at 110kgf and end up with way too low of tension on that side, but have good dish. Or leave it as is.
What do you think?
#2
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My 1st thought is that you’ve mixed up DS and NDS. It’d be a mighty weird wheel to have higher NDS tension than DS tension.
My 2nd thought is that unless you have a habit of breaking spokes, bring the DS tension down to the recommended value, then let the NDS tension be whatever it needs to be to set the correct dish.
My 2nd thought is that unless you have a habit of breaking spokes, bring the DS tension down to the recommended value, then let the NDS tension be whatever it needs to be to set the correct dish.
#3
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Building a wheel. Not my first, but I am no pro wheel builder either. Using the Park TS-2.2 stand and the park tension meter.
Rim = Velocity Deep V
Hub = Shimano Deore XT M756A
Odd combo, I know, but that's beside the point
Onto the question.......Velocity says that tension should be 110kgf-130kgf. As it is, the drive side is at 110kgf all the way around and the non-drive side is at 150kgf all the way around. The wheel is near-perfectly true. Less than 1mm hop, but it wont come out so I will call that good. The problem is dish....it is about 1.5mm out on the dish. The rim needs to go TOWARDS the side that is already at 150kgm. So, I can tighten that side and get about 200+kgf on that side (way too much I think) and get dish just right OR i can loosen the side that is already at 110kgf and end up with way too low of tension on that side, but have good dish. Or leave it as is.
What do you think?
Rim = Velocity Deep V
Hub = Shimano Deore XT M756A
Odd combo, I know, but that's beside the point
Onto the question.......Velocity says that tension should be 110kgf-130kgf. As it is, the drive side is at 110kgf all the way around and the non-drive side is at 150kgf all the way around. The wheel is near-perfectly true. Less than 1mm hop, but it wont come out so I will call that good. The problem is dish....it is about 1.5mm out on the dish. The rim needs to go TOWARDS the side that is already at 150kgm. So, I can tighten that side and get about 200+kgf on that side (way too much I think) and get dish just right OR i can loosen the side that is already at 110kgf and end up with way too low of tension on that side, but have good dish. Or leave it as is.
What do you think?
Approach the wheel as a whole. So long as the spokes are tight, and the tensions are in close tolerance, then it'll last. Get the tension readings on the spokes per side to be as close as possible to each other while keeping the rim centered and true.
Last edited by Unca_Sam; 01-20-21 at 01:47 PM.
#4
Really Old Senior Member
NDS SHOULD be 53% of DS per Spocalc.
Are you using the same gauge spokes on both sides, or thinner on the NDS?
I don't think this rim comes with an offset spoke bed does it? Even with a 2.5mm offset, you'd be at about 65%.
Are you using the same gauge spokes on both sides, or thinner on the NDS?
I don't think this rim comes with an offset spoke bed does it? Even with a 2.5mm offset, you'd be at about 65%.
#5
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For the helpers coming, this hub is a disc brake model.
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Guessing a disc front hub for ds being the lower tension. The recommended range has as much to do with rim strength as it does wheel strength, if velocity is giving a top rating of 130kgf then you should assume there's a safety reason for doing so. At the least loosen the DS spokes to move the wheel over and relieve some tension. Dropping all the spokes a 1/4 turn will help with relieve more and give you the breathing room to ditch that tiny hop.
#7
Really Old Senior Member
I'd assumed a REAR hub, but if it's a front, it would be nice to know since it totally changes the number around.
LEFT side would be 150% of the RIGHT side.
IOW, if a front, you should be setting the LEFT side spokes at your 110 kgf and the R side end up where they end up.
LEFT side would be 150% of the RIGHT side.
IOW, if a front, you should be setting the LEFT side spokes at your 110 kgf and the R side end up where they end up.
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 01-20-21 at 02:45 PM.
#9
Really Old Senior Member
#10
Full Member
Thread Starter
My 1st thought is that you’ve mixed up DS and NDS. It’d be a mighty weird wheel to have higher NDS tension than DS tension.
My 2nd thought is that unless you have a habit of breaking spokes, bring the DS tension down to the recommended value, then let the NDS tension be whatever it needs to be to set the correct dish.
My 2nd thought is that unless you have a habit of breaking spokes, bring the DS tension down to the recommended value, then let the NDS tension be whatever it needs to be to set the correct dish.
The DS is at the LOWEST number recommended already. If I bring it down to get the dish right, it will be way below the recommended value. This is my issue.
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
This is an easy fix. Loosen the DS, and take up the slack on the NDS. You're probably overdoing tensions, but the deep V is a strong rim.
Approach the wheel as a whole. So long as the spokes are tight, and the tensions are in close tolerance, then it'll last. Get the tension readings on the spokes per side to be as close as possible to each other while keeping the rim centered and true.
Approach the wheel as a whole. So long as the spokes are tight, and the tensions are in close tolerance, then it'll last. Get the tension readings on the spokes per side to be as close as possible to each other while keeping the rim centered and true.
Loosen up the DS as much as needed to bring the dish to center. Got it. As the rim shifts towards the NDS, the tension of the NDS goes down. This leaves me with lower tension on both sides. Then you say to take up slack at the NDS. Will I not end up with very low tension at the DS?
#12
Really Old Senior Member
You do realize the DS has the cogs and the NDS has the brake disc?
#13
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Thread Starter
Same spokes on both sides.
#14
Luke
OP, how are you measuring dish?? Perhaps your TS-2.2 is out of calibration?
Try flipping the wheel around in the stand to see if your dish is in fact ******
Try flipping the wheel around in the stand to see if your dish is in fact ******
#15
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Thread Starter
In my case however, I am using it backwards. My cog is mounted to the disc brake flange, so the disc brake side is my DS.
#16
Really Old Senior Member
Set the "High Tension Side" to your 110ish KGF and let the other side fall where it may.
Flipping the wheel doesn't change the geometry between hub spoke flange & rim.
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#17
Luke
Ffs, You do realise that this information is VITAL in order to help you.
The dish has to be opposite then since the lower bracing angle side wil have to have higher tension to stay in dish, so your spoke tensions should be oppisite normal
#18
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Thread Starter
#19
Luke
#20
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Thread Starter
Double checking....set the DISC side (DS in my case) to 110kgf and the the cassette side (NDS in my case) fall where it may?
#21
Really Old Senior Member
#22
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Thread Starter
Loosen up the disc side (my DS), bring dish to center. My DS will now be very low.....then do what exactly to get tensions where they need to be? (110kgf - 130kgf) This is my point of confusion.
#24
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A wheel with 90kgf tensioned spokes will still be solid, and the rim isn't likely to collapse if you go up to 170kgf. You have a wide margin, so center the rim and balance the tensions, and as long as the wheel is sound and true, call it a day.
#25
Luke
Building a wheel. Not my first, but I am no pro wheel builder either. Using the Park TS-2.2 stand and the park tension meter.
Rim = Velocity Deep V
Hub = Shimano Deore XT M756A
Odd combo, I know, but that's NOT beside the point, it is quite the point
Onto the question.......Velocity says that tension should be 110kgf-130kgf. As it is, the drive side is at 110kgf all the way around and the non-drive side is at 150kgf all the way around. The wheel is near-perfectly true. Less than 1mm hop, but it wont come out so I will call that good. The problem is dish....it is about 1.5mm out on the dish. The rim needs to go TOWARDS the side that is already at 150kgm. So, I can tighten that side and get about 200+kgf on that side (way too much I think) and get dish just right OR i can loosen the side that is already at 110kgf and end up with way too low of tension on that side, but have good dish. Or leave it as is.
What do you think?
Rim = Velocity Deep V
Hub = Shimano Deore XT M756A
Odd combo, I know, but that's NOT beside the point, it is quite the point
Onto the question.......Velocity says that tension should be 110kgf-130kgf. As it is, the drive side is at 110kgf all the way around and the non-drive side is at 150kgf all the way around. The wheel is near-perfectly true. Less than 1mm hop, but it wont come out so I will call that good. The problem is dish....it is about 1.5mm out on the dish. The rim needs to go TOWARDS the side that is already at 150kgm. So, I can tighten that side and get about 200+kgf on that side (way too much I think) and get dish just right OR i can loosen the side that is already at 110kgf and end up with way too low of tension on that side, but have good dish. Or leave it as is.
What do you think?
Yes so you could loosen the Disc side (drive side/low tension in your case) to bring the rim towards the freehub body/cassette side (NDS/high tension in your case). YOUR low tension side will be lower than 110kgF
Hope this helps. Sorry if I came across as a bit pissed in this thread didn't mean it to be like that ahahah
Irony being that the whole "odd combo" if explained would have helped you faster...
Best of luck