New stem to make MTN bike more like a hybrid?
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New stem to make MTN bike more like a hybrid?
I have a 2006 Gary Fisher Wahoo mountain bike. While I used to do mountain biking 10 years ago, now my bike is used solely to tow my children around in a bike trailer on roads/smooth trails. I've found that when we ride for even a modest amount of time (20 minutes), the heals of my hands get tired/sore/numb. Rather than getting a new bike of a more comfortable style (hybrid?), I'm hoping a small modification or new part would get me where I want to be.
Sitting more upright rather than leaning over I believe will do the trick. That being the case, it seems like the stem may be the part/area that needs to be addressed. Can my existing stem be adjusted to allow me to sit more upright? Would I need a new stem? Something else?
Sitting more upright rather than leaning over I believe will do the trick. That being the case, it seems like the stem may be the part/area that needs to be addressed. Can my existing stem be adjusted to allow me to sit more upright? Would I need a new stem? Something else?
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You could go with a new stem with a higher rise or use a stem extender to raise your current stem. This one is made for a 1-1/8" steerer: https://www.jensonusa.com/Dimension-Steerer-Extender Ergon grips may also help: https://www.jensonusa.com/Ergon-GP3-...-Comfort-Grips
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It might be able to be adjusted- nobody here would know.
What angle is it at right now? If its pointing straight ahead for the most part, flip the stem and it will rise upwards at 5-10 degrees(depending on the stem) which will increase the handlebar height.
Are there spacers above the stem right now? If so, move them below the stem. That will increase the stem's height.
Or just buy a stem that has a significant angle rise- like 25 degrees or something.
***you may need to get new cables since moving the handlebars up will increase the required length of cables attached to the handlebars.
What angle is it at right now? If its pointing straight ahead for the most part, flip the stem and it will rise upwards at 5-10 degrees(depending on the stem) which will increase the handlebar height.
Are there spacers above the stem right now? If so, move them below the stem. That will increase the stem's height.
Or just buy a stem that has a significant angle rise- like 25 degrees or something.
***you may need to get new cables since moving the handlebars up will increase the required length of cables attached to the handlebars.
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Often excess pressur eon the hands is caused primarily by something other than handlebar position. Speciaically, if your saddle is maladjusted (significantly nose-down, say) then your hands have to constantly push your weight back to keep you from sliding off the saddle. So I would look at your saddle and get that dialled in first.
A stem swap is often a very quick change, though.
A stem swap is often a very quick change, though.
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I found the handlebars to be the problem on my mtn bike. They were too straight, putting my wrist at an awkward angle. I put them in my vise, and angled the ends of the bars inwards a little bit.
The above suggestions about swapping the stem are also worth trying. Perhaps a local shop will let you try a few to see which is best.
The above suggestions about swapping the stem are also worth trying. Perhaps a local shop will let you try a few to see which is best.
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Before putting anything into the bike, your first questions should be "does it fit me?" and "can it be adjusted to fit better?".
There is a sub-forum on bike fitting that could be of help. Always start at the unmovable point, the axis of your bottom bracket (the point your pedals and front sprockets revolve around). From there adjust your saddle height and fore/aft positioning. From that point you can determine how long and what angle you will want your stem. Once you have determined that the bike fits and has been adjusted as correctly as possible, then look at changing the stem, handlebar, grips or saddle. I have watched a number of people spend lots of time and money replacing one part after another when the real problem was fit.
There is a sub-forum on bike fitting that could be of help. Always start at the unmovable point, the axis of your bottom bracket (the point your pedals and front sprockets revolve around). From there adjust your saddle height and fore/aft positioning. From that point you can determine how long and what angle you will want your stem. Once you have determined that the bike fits and has been adjusted as correctly as possible, then look at changing the stem, handlebar, grips or saddle. I have watched a number of people spend lots of time and money replacing one part after another when the real problem was fit.