Off the Wall Wheel Plan
#26
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Reynolds DV46s are light, cheap tubular wheels. Look around, and you can probably get a good set for a few hundred bucks, then upgrade the freehub body to 11-speed. It's a DT240 hub, so all you have to do is pull the old hub off and push the new hub on.
That said, I don't think this is a great idea.
1. Tubulars are a PIA in a road flat. There are tutorials on YouTube on how to patch a tubular on the road with Superglue and Stans, but it's not something I'd want to deal with.
2. A pre-glued replacement tubular will be heavy and not 100 percent reliable on hard turns - you do not want to roll a tubular on a downhill.
2.While carbon brake tracks have improved a ton over the last several years, if you're going older and cheaper, you'll be getting lower quality brake tracks. Do you really want to be dealing with that in a mountain century? Imagine if it rains.
That said, I don't think this is a great idea.
1. Tubulars are a PIA in a road flat. There are tutorials on YouTube on how to patch a tubular on the road with Superglue and Stans, but it's not something I'd want to deal with.
2. A pre-glued replacement tubular will be heavy and not 100 percent reliable on hard turns - you do not want to roll a tubular on a downhill.
2.While carbon brake tracks have improved a ton over the last several years, if you're going older and cheaper, you'll be getting lower quality brake tracks. Do you really want to be dealing with that in a mountain century? Imagine if it rains.
#27
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OP here, BTW.
This has gone in a much different direction than I would have guessed. It was really (in my mind) mostly a deep section vs. lighter 'not deep section' wheels thing, where tubular was really almost an after thought.
Such is the life of discussion boards in the internet.
dave
This has gone in a much different direction than I would have guessed. It was really (in my mind) mostly a deep section vs. lighter 'not deep section' wheels thing, where tubular was really almost an after thought.
Such is the life of discussion boards in the internet.
dave
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IME that sort of equipment doesn't make more than piddly difference on a ride like this compared to what you're using now.
What does make a huge difference in ET is training, and in your case, maybe supplements. That'd be the discussion I'd want to have. I finally got a free PM and have been training with it. The difference I totally did not expect was the ability to do hard training on days when I thought I was too tired to do it effectively. I've been only road riding on our tandem and training on my single using resistance rollers. I got the chance to get out on my single this past Sunday and was astonished to be absolutely killing it (for me), riding 50 miles and 3100' with our fast group, 10+ years younger. On the last little hill, every pedal stroke I could feel my quads twitch. Just barely made it at that effort. Which reminded me of the need to do competitive riding with folks faster than I, and doing the training necessary to be able to do that. That's the real deal.
For inside of the leg cramps, gotta do heavy barbell squats. And can't do those without a full-body progression working up to it. Athletes get knee injuries all the time and train their way back out of them. Good personal trainer is where to spend that money
Yes, there's a good reason to go tubular, and that's to get the aero cross-section that the deep carbon wheel manufacturer specifies. But I don't see how that's going to help you, since you'll be speed-limited on the descents anyway. Lighter is faster seems to have been a myth. Where did the Helium wheels go? I saw them for maybe 2 years, then no more. Tires make a difference, but you already know that.
What does make a huge difference in ET is training, and in your case, maybe supplements. That'd be the discussion I'd want to have. I finally got a free PM and have been training with it. The difference I totally did not expect was the ability to do hard training on days when I thought I was too tired to do it effectively. I've been only road riding on our tandem and training on my single using resistance rollers. I got the chance to get out on my single this past Sunday and was astonished to be absolutely killing it (for me), riding 50 miles and 3100' with our fast group, 10+ years younger. On the last little hill, every pedal stroke I could feel my quads twitch. Just barely made it at that effort. Which reminded me of the need to do competitive riding with folks faster than I, and doing the training necessary to be able to do that. That's the real deal.
For inside of the leg cramps, gotta do heavy barbell squats. And can't do those without a full-body progression working up to it. Athletes get knee injuries all the time and train their way back out of them. Good personal trainer is where to spend that money
Yes, there's a good reason to go tubular, and that's to get the aero cross-section that the deep carbon wheel manufacturer specifies. But I don't see how that's going to help you, since you'll be speed-limited on the descents anyway. Lighter is faster seems to have been a myth. Where did the Helium wheels go? I saw them for maybe 2 years, then no more. Tires make a difference, but you already know that.
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How about 69 mm front, 79 mm rear, 1410 g, rim brake, Shimano free hub, tubular, $895 ($600 off)? New, and not a no-name brand. You would probably take much less than a $500 hit on these if/when you re-sell them.
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dave
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IME that sort of equipment doesn't make more than piddly difference on a ride like this compared to what you're using now.
What does make a huge difference in ET is training, and in your case, maybe supplements. That'd be the discussion I'd want to have. I finally got a free PM and have been training with it. The difference I totally did not expect was the ability to do hard training on days when I thought I was too tired to do it effectively. I've been only road riding on our tandem and training on my single using resistance rollers. I got the chance to get out on my single this past Sunday and was astonished to be absolutely killing it (for me), riding 50 miles and 3100' with our fast group, 10+ years younger. On the last little hill, every pedal stroke I could feel my quads twitch. Just barely made it at that effort. Which reminded me of the need to do competitive riding with folks faster than I, and doing the training necessary to be able to do that. That's the real deal.
For inside of the leg cramps, gotta do heavy barbell squats. And can't do those without a full-body progression working up to it. Athletes get knee injuries all the time and train their way back out of them. Good personal trainer is where to spend that money
Yes, there's a good reason to go tubular, and that's to get the aero cross-section that the deep carbon wheel manufacturer specifies. But I don't see how that's going to help you, since you'll be speed-limited on the descents anyway. Lighter is faster seems to have been a myth. Where did the Helium wheels go? I saw them for maybe 2 years, then no more. Tires make a difference, but you already know that.
What does make a huge difference in ET is training, and in your case, maybe supplements. That'd be the discussion I'd want to have. I finally got a free PM and have been training with it. The difference I totally did not expect was the ability to do hard training on days when I thought I was too tired to do it effectively. I've been only road riding on our tandem and training on my single using resistance rollers. I got the chance to get out on my single this past Sunday and was astonished to be absolutely killing it (for me), riding 50 miles and 3100' with our fast group, 10+ years younger. On the last little hill, every pedal stroke I could feel my quads twitch. Just barely made it at that effort. Which reminded me of the need to do competitive riding with folks faster than I, and doing the training necessary to be able to do that. That's the real deal.
For inside of the leg cramps, gotta do heavy barbell squats. And can't do those without a full-body progression working up to it. Athletes get knee injuries all the time and train their way back out of them. Good personal trainer is where to spend that money
Yes, there's a good reason to go tubular, and that's to get the aero cross-section that the deep carbon wheel manufacturer specifies. But I don't see how that's going to help you, since you'll be speed-limited on the descents anyway. Lighter is faster seems to have been a myth. Where did the Helium wheels go? I saw them for maybe 2 years, then no more. Tires make a difference, but you already know that.
dave
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How deep-ish are you looking for?
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Reynolds DV46s are light, cheap tubular wheels. Look around, and you can probably get a good set for a few hundred bucks, then upgrade the freehub body to 11-speed. It's a DT240 hub, so all you have to do is pull the old hub off and push the new hub on.
That said, I don't think this is a great idea.
1. Tubulars are a PIA in a road flat. There are tutorials on YouTube on how to patch a tubular on the road with Superglue and Stans, but it's not something I'd want to deal with.
2. A pre-glued replacement tubular will be heavy and not 100 percent reliable on hard turns - you do not want to roll a tubular on a downhill.
2.While carbon brake tracks have improved a ton over the last several years, if you're going older and cheaper, you'll be getting lower quality brake tracks. Do you really want to be dealing with that in a mountain century? Imagine if it rains.
That said, I don't think this is a great idea.
1. Tubulars are a PIA in a road flat. There are tutorials on YouTube on how to patch a tubular on the road with Superglue and Stans, but it's not something I'd want to deal with.
2. A pre-glued replacement tubular will be heavy and not 100 percent reliable on hard turns - you do not want to roll a tubular on a downhill.
2.While carbon brake tracks have improved a ton over the last several years, if you're going older and cheaper, you'll be getting lower quality brake tracks. Do you really want to be dealing with that in a mountain century? Imagine if it rains.
Again- do you have any experience with tubulars?
1. A tire lever is helpful to avoid sore thumbs. Generally faster to put on a spare tubular than to change a tube.
2. 165g. in my case, with glue and rubber band. Pretty nice & light Roval alloy clinchers w/ tube= 5.68lbs. DA 35mm tubular w/27mm tires & spare tire= 5.31 lbs.
So could carry two spares for the same weight as the clinchers with one tube.
It is in fact very hard to roll a tire outside of CX and maybe extreme criterium conditions, glue or no glue.
2. (sic) I have & have had a variety of carbon wheels new and old, ridden in in the rain, etc.. No problems- better than alloy/cantilever on my CX bike.
#34
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FWIW, leg squats are off my list simply due to knee concerns. My inner thigh issues are (I think) the adductor muscles which are not the prime drivers of the leg motion in squats (they are more used to closed the legs together). Of course I could be wrong about that. Have a follow up in a month or so with my orthopedic doc and hope to get some clarification then.
dave
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they’re allowed I guess - they generally don’t have any other dish to talk about
Likes For Litespud:
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OP here, BTW.
This has gone in a much different direction than I would have guessed. It was really (in my mind) mostly a deep section vs. lighter 'not deep section' wheels thing, where tubular was really almost an after thought.
Such is the life of discussion boards in the internet.
dave
This has gone in a much different direction than I would have guessed. It was really (in my mind) mostly a deep section vs. lighter 'not deep section' wheels thing, where tubular was really almost an after thought.
Such is the life of discussion boards in the internet.
dave
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My new bike is coming setup tubeless, so I'll see how that goes and decide whether or not I want to stay tubeless on the road.
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Even more tangential to this thread, I recently learned that several "real" one-sided track hubs like Campy Record and Shimano Dura-Ace actually don't have symmetrical flange spacing. So those wheels do have a little dish, albeit not enough to jeopardize their strength.
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@DaveLeeNC " I really am not a viable replacement candidate at this point as the situation is currently manageable."
OTOH, how much does an replacement knee weigh vs. a organic knee
dave
OTOH, how much does an replacement knee weigh vs. a organic knee
dave
dave
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So the point of tubular is deep with no weight compromise.
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I was born in 1946 but I don't have knee issues so I can't speak to that. I can say that last year I went to Mavic tubeless and they made the bike lighter, quicker to spin up and much more comfortable. The rim brake version of Mavic Ksyrium Elite USTs cost me under $500 for the set and that included tires. Got them at Competitive Cyclist. Oh, haven't had a flat.
#44
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i'm always a fan of new wheels, but i would also strongly recommend finding a rolfer (fascial bodywork) in your area, and trying a few sessions with them to see if they can't get some of the muscle/fascia issues sorted out. after my last partial knee replacement, rolfing was the key to getting things working right again.
for wheels, i'd be prone to getting a really nice set of clinchers, rather than tubulars, for the reasons many already mentioned. the difference between a super light set of deep carbon clinchers and tubulars is negligible (at least in my mind) compared to dealing with a completely new kind of tire mounting process.
for wheels, i'd be prone to getting a really nice set of clinchers, rather than tubulars, for the reasons many already mentioned. the difference between a super light set of deep carbon clinchers and tubulars is negligible (at least in my mind) compared to dealing with a completely new kind of tire mounting process.
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Heavy half squats do serious adductor damage if one hasn't been doing them regularly. Talk to a strength coach as well as the orthopod. A common thread with doctors is "good outcomes." IOW, you tell your patient that he won't hurt his back if he only lifts light things. Very true but unhelpful in the long run. Gyms of course have adductor machines, but the range of motion is wrong for cyclists. I'm a big fan of doctors who are endurance or strength athletes. Otherwise, not so much unless its a positive diagnosis of a thing they know how to fix.
Life post op with a knee replacement has as much to do with attitude as it does activity. I had my left done at 47. And I just don't think about it as I am doing things today. At 57, I have plenty other things slowing me down, including the RIGHT knee needs replacing...
#46
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My orthopedic's PA has been a tri-athlete in his past. And is into strength training presently. Left knee replacement facilitated my return to cycling 9 years ago.
Life post op with a knee replacement has as much to do with attitude as it does activity. I had my left done at 47. And I just don't think about it as I am doing things today. At 57, I have plenty other things slowing me down, including the RIGHT knee needs replacing...
Life post op with a knee replacement has as much to do with attitude as it does activity. I had my left done at 47. And I just don't think about it as I am doing things today. At 57, I have plenty other things slowing me down, including the RIGHT knee needs replacing...
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Why would someone wait if they were 70 years old? The life expectancy of the knee would exceed the life expectancy of the person.
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Sure, why not.
Something like this might work: https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bo...061769806.html
China carbon tubulars are quite good IME. Newer wheels tend to have rounded profiles- better in cross winds.
Maybe ask around at shop or club for someone in your area that rides tubulars- a bit of one on one feedback would helps thing to go smoothly.
Something like this might work: https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bo...061769806.html
China carbon tubulars are quite good IME. Newer wheels tend to have rounded profiles- better in cross winds.
Maybe ask around at shop or club for someone in your area that rides tubulars- a bit of one on one feedback would helps thing to go smoothly.
condition: excellent
Selling my carbon wheelset.
These are tubular!
1,259g / 40mm deep
Shimano / Sram 10/11s compatible
Bitex road hubs
Sapim CX-ray bladed aero spokes
Aluminum Nipples
BTLOS BT-40 Premium rims (higher end Chinese carbon)
20h front and 24h rear.
Tubular tires were professionally installed (glued) and are in great shape. No cuts, no sealant, no leaks. They hold air perfectly and are in phenomenal condition. Zipp valve extenders are installed and included.
The tires are 300tpi gumwall Challenge Strada PRO's in 700x25c. I've ridden a handful of tubular tires and you can't beat the comfy feel of a handmade tire.
Wheels and tires were used in a few triathlons and saw minimal training mileage outside of competition (I rotate between a few bikes).
Wheels and tires have low miles on them. Would love to keep them, but I'm not longer racing.
do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offerspost id: 7061769806
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DaveLee,
Mad Honk here. I have always ridden sew-ups and am now finding myself unable to find tubulars under $150 for the 19c variety I am used to. But they are very low in rolling resistance and total wattage used by me. So my advice is to find some of those, or look to a 18c rim like the Weinmann and use a 19c or 20c clincher tire. The clincher tires are still out there but cost about $20 if you can find a shop that has them or $50 from the big stores. The rims cost me around $25 from JBI and a wheel set is doable for about $100. HTH, MH
Mad Honk here. I have always ridden sew-ups and am now finding myself unable to find tubulars under $150 for the 19c variety I am used to. But they are very low in rolling resistance and total wattage used by me. So my advice is to find some of those, or look to a 18c rim like the Weinmann and use a 19c or 20c clincher tire. The clincher tires are still out there but cost about $20 if you can find a shop that has them or $50 from the big stores. The rims cost me around $25 from JBI and a wheel set is doable for about $100. HTH, MH
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dave