raria

It's just the chain running rough through the lower jockey. It's 11 speed chain it's not new but under 500 miles

LesterOfPuppets

11 speed mtb RD, 11 speed chain.

10 speed cassette

Hmmm.

What shifter are we working with?

How extended is the RD when in big/big?

raria

Thanks. I tried it with an 11 speed cassette and same problem.

Shifter is SLX M7000 11 speed shifter.

RD is very extended bu that's to be expected its a 36T big cog

LesterOfPuppets

I'd try a 1x chainring as others have suggested, if it's still dropping, I'd try moving one of those crank spacers over to the drive side.

dsaul

This gets more interesting all the time. Why are you using a 10 speed cassette if the shifter is 11 speed? I can't think of a situation where that would work properly.

Also, that chain has some weird bends in it.

raria

No. 10 speed cassette on a 11 speed MTB RD isnt a problem. Lots of threads how they work together. Besides tried it with a 11 speed wheel and had same problems.

hmmm. Where. Did you see the chain bends? In the video or the pictures?

Does the chainline look correct? Ithink thats my main focus here. The crankset manual specifixally says dont use with 130mm rear spaced hub.

dsaul

In terms of the chainline, I don't know why you can't wrap your head around the fact that the narrower rear wheel makes the chainline from the small cog to the large chainring "less" extreme than it would be with a 135mm wheel. It makes it more extreme to the large cog, but thats not the issue you've been describing. You say the problem is the chain coming off the OUTSIDE of the chainring when on the smallest cog.

In terms of the shifting:

Shimano 10 speed MTB shifter pull of 3.4mm x RD ratio of 1.2 = 4.08mm movement per shift
Shimano 11 speed MTB shifter pull of 3.6mm x RD ratio of 1.1 = 3.96mm movement per shift

.12mm difference per shift equals 1.2mm over 10 shifts. It probably works, but its going to have some misalignment on one end of the cassette.

The real question is, what makes you want to use a 10 speed cassette with an otherwise complete 11 speed system?

LesterOfPuppets

Tough to guess chainline from photos of even numbered drivetrains. If you had a 1x chainring on and took pics in the 5 and 6 cog, we could have a guess at chainline.

Another thing to consider is that an 11sp Shimano MTB cassette will sit inboard of a 10sp MTB or 11 speed road cassrtte. Would have a minimum of 40t big cog to get one that does so, however.

Have you tried it with the clutch off?

LesterOfPuppets

Also, it seems like lower pulley chain noise *might* be reduced with a longer chain. Set it up so that chain is almost rubbing upper pulley with RD in small cog. This will give the longest effective chainstay distance between chainring and lower pulley.

It's a tough setup as that RD is designed with longer chainstays and smaller chainrings in mind.

raria

Raleigh's help desk was very useful.

They said the crankset they paired with teh bike has a 43.5mm chain line.

But the crankset I had was 46mm chain line. Could that be the issue?

As God as my witness, I shall never buy a Cyclocross bike again!

trailangel

Measure your chainline

mstateglfr 

it isnt the bike category fault.
you have hodgepodged together a bike and with that decision comes issues. Its hardly unique- its seemingly kinda common.

43.5mm chainline is a road crankset. Makes sense, since its 130mm spacing in back.

regardless, the crank you have isnt meant to run 1x. Get a 1x chainring(called narrow wide) that fits your crank's bcd and see if the small ring of your current crank is close enough to 43.5mm to make it work.
or sell that crank and buy one that is meant to be used with the frame you bought.

and I still haven't seen you say why you have a 10sp cassette with all this. Seems odd.

raria

It was a number of things interplaying:

1) Turns out the 114 link chain I bought wasn't 114 links it was 110 links
2) Turns out the clutch on the RD was too tight

Lets just say JensonUSA isn't getting my business in the future. I'm almost certain they sold me returned parts.

Everything works fine now. No need to buy new cranks or do anything special, just had to get the existing parts to behave how they were supposed to.

GrainBrain

Kudos for your unique learning experience. A couple stray observations...

Buy a steel machinist rule: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010IR0CGG..._IlKhCbJW5WF0K

Did you use a different chain after replacing the one you bought from Jenson? I hadn't followed this thread but the first 11 speed chain I bought had a stuck link, I wonder if this was the issue more then not having 114 links. My chain was brand new Shimano. It took the tech guys a bit of headscratching to figure that out.

It makes no sense that a longer chain and looser RD clutch will stop the chain from falling off the front.

You should buy a NW ring as others have noted.

I'll look at your other thread again, but why not an 11 speed cassette!? You know what I would do? Why not get crazy and get the 11 speed 11-40, drop the 40t cog, then rig in a 14t cog. That would be sweet.

trailangel

Operator Error

raria

I reached out to JensonUSA and told them both products they sold were clearly returned items (the 114 link chain only had 108 links). To their credit they let me keep the items (chain and RD) and refunded my money. Whilst I'm not happy because they wasted my time, at least they tried to make it better so I'll give them another chance.

How?

It's fine now, no dropping at all. I talked to some serious MTB type and they saw no need for a dedicated 1 x 11 chainring UNLESS I did some serious single track (i.e. bumpy rides).

The SLX M7000 is designed for 10 or 11 speed cassettes. For the former you just have two clicks for the largest cog. It works flawlessly. As to why I didn't go 11 speed to start off with, a high quality 11-36 10 speed cassette can be had for $20 but the 11-42 11 speed cassettes are 3 times + and I wasn't sure I need a that big cog at the back (as yet).

It was your last point that got me thinking about chain length. Thanks! I used the standard chain length calculator that said I needed a chain of 56 inches. So I bought a 114 link chain (57 inches). But when I measured it, it was only 54 inches.

LesterOfPuppets

Yeah, that pulley noise made me think chain too short. That last pic in post 22 points to chain too short also, assuming it's in the 4th or 5th cog, RD shouldn't be that extended in that position. I'm surprised short chain would affect chain drop that much. I suppose it make a bit of sense, as the RD extends, it's pushing the chain down as much as it's pulling it back.

02Giant 

I would shift one of the spacers to the drive side to offset the crank outboard slightly more. A narrow/wide chain ring would help also. You have a pretty extreme chainline in the large front/small rear combo, if the chain stays are short, that will make the problem slightly worse.

I have a hybid that was 1x9, I ran a narrow/wide single front ring, centered on the middle of the cassette, it is a long stay bike that would still occasionally drop the chain on very bumpy terrain in the big/small combo.