Speedy2009

My bike: Cannondale Evo 2x10 MY 2012 FRame size 54
I just replaced my 10 speed : D/A short cage , 11-28 cassette and 104 links chain with
Brand new RD-6700 GS, 11-32 Sram PG-1070 Cassette, and KMC X10XSL.( 108 links)
My front chain whee is 50/34

Trying to dial it on the work stand.
I can go big/big no problem and with very little noise.
The problem is the 34 front/ 32 rear ( small/large):
It does shift up and down very good, but it makes quite a noise when moving the pedals on the stand.
I turned the B scree all the way in.
Do I need a longer B screw bolt ?
Do I need to remove 2 more links ?
Do I need the Wolftooth Roadlink ?

Any other ideas on how to stop the noise on the (Small/large ?)
Thank you

BTW, I did similar setup for my wife's bike( Also Evo 54), but all 11 speed ( Ultegra RD and Cassette 11/32) and it works just fine....

cxwrench

Of course it makes noise, it's spec'd for a 28t large cog, same as the SS. It's got a longer cage ONLY to wrap more chain, not allow a larger cassette.

MudPie

Correct, max is 28T. https://media.canyon.com/download/ma...RD_6700_EN.pdf
The derailleur capacity is greater for the GS compared to the SS, but max sprocket is still 28T for both.

Speedy2009

I am not sure that the 28T is the real limit.
There is also the max capacity of 39T, and my setting is 37T
Anyway, looks like the issue was the B-tension, I reversed it and now all seems nice and Quiet on the stand
I will get a longer screw and try to thread it from the top (Probably M4 x20 or 25 mm)

dsbrantjr

The max cog and max capacity are separate specifications. Just because you are within one does not mean you can ignore the other. 28T cog is the specified limit, you may or may not have success going bigger.

trailangel

If you reversed the B-screw and all is well, you are done. Why buy a longer screw?

Iride01 

I didn't see that you specified what was making the noise. I guess I can assume it was interaction of the chain, pulley wheel and big cog since you say that adjusting the b-screw seemed to help.

If that is where the noise is, you might also need to look from different views to see if the pulley wheels and cog and chain are slightly out of alignment. Might be the common bent hangar or might even need the low adjustment tweaked.

If the noise is elsewhere, such as up on the front DR with the chain rubbing the DR cage, then might just be the new chain angle created by your new cassette size. Again, you might get away with messing with the limit screw. But if you have chain drops on that side, then it's your choice, noise or chain drops.

And if the noise is only in the lowest ratio, then how often is that used? A little chain noise near the top of a hill that made me go that low is going to be drowned out by my huffing and puffing and I'll be shifting out of that gear near the crest, so no more noise. <grin>

cxwrench

Seriously? You didn't read the document linked in the previous post? It most certainly is the max cog size that will work properly w/ that derailleur. Reversing b-tension screws or installing longer ones is what is now commonly known as a 'hack'. You're forcing a derailleur that was designed to work w/ a 28t cog to now work w/ a 32. It will likely have a negative effect on shifting in the smaller cogs.

trailangel

No. Seriously?
One variable that is not taken into account is the length of the DR hanger. Longer hangers allow larger cogs with the rear DR.
Some bikes have longer ones.
I wouldn't call adjusting or reversing B screw a hack. That's what it's there for.

cxwrench

Adjusting is one thing. Reversing or installing a longer screw is most definitely a hack. Shimano and their building full of engineers designed certain limitations into this part. Their was no intent on their part to have home mechanics reverse or install longer screws. You can be sure that would be included in their manual if it was. Shimano takes into account the variations in hanger length and have been known to be slightly conservative w/ their spec but it's the only way they can guarantee the derailleur will work properly all the time.

trailangel

Please lord, forgive me for I have sinned. I turned my B-screw around backwards.

curbtender

It's ok to drop down to the small in front. Not sure why there is a need to cross chain like that.

cxwrench

Not sure why some people think it's so wrong to cross chain. It should be possible to do it or you'll end up ruining things at some point. I'm not saying it's fine to ride around all day in 50/32 but it should definitely be possible to do it when needed. If your drivetrain is with in the capacity spec it should be fine.

70sSanO

As long as it is well thought out, for me, hacks are a wonderful part of life. Getting something to work, and work well, outside the parameters of the published specs or instructions is much more rewarding.

John

Iride01 

b-screw mainly is for adjusting how close the pulley wheels get to the cogs. So if the pulley wheel clearance was okay when cassette installed, and going further away makes the sound less noticeable, then it still might be something else that really ought to be addressed.

cxwrench

The problem with doing this with bicycle drivetrains is that you might accomplish your goal in getting a derailleur to work with a larger cassette...on the large cog. But...the shifting will no doubt suffer on the smaller cog side of the cassette as the chain is now further away from the cogs as would be considered ideal. Some people might claim it 'works well' but some others know better. You can't have both when you push past the limits of what a derailleur was designed to do. That's why Wolftooth links are such a joke.

Speedy2009

Good question
I guess for a few pennies I can have a proper setup with an easily accessible screw head.
I am yet to take the bike for a spin, but on the work-stand, everything shifts smooth and silent - even big/big.
I guess a proper chain length and the reversed B-screw did the trick.

curbtender

I understand the need to be able to go there, my point is why when you have a better option? I have wondered if those gear limits were set to deal with triple drivetrains. I have a 6500 long cage that has no problem with a 32 rear and compact. I wouldn't try it with a standard triple, but then I have a 30 front that can be gone to if needed.
If you are finding issues, and running shimano, there is also the choice of going to an older XT long cage.

70sSanO

I missed the first hot rod era, but not the second. One of the best things about that time was getting together and seeing what mod someone did. The “How did you get that...” stuff.

The Mechanics and the C&V forums have an element of that. I have learned so much over the years on getting things to work from people who have been there and done that. The “I’ve had success with...” stuff.

John

70sSanO

The problem with picking up older Ultegra and XT is they have become a lot harder to find and much more expensive these days. Every now and then I’d search eBay for older components and was floored by how little is out there. And the premium prices they are getting. The days of the $15-$20 older RD are long gone.

I’ve been thinking of picking up another set of v-brakes. There are no SD-7’s, no T-780’s, and old used XT’s are going for $100 with a dozen or more bids.

John

curbtender

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...l#post21687105

BoraxKid

There is no way that Shimano can take into account every possible end-user application of their derailleurs. Given this fact, it's totally fine for an individual to test a non-standard setup on their own equipment and decide for themselves if it works well or not. I'm sure if OP finds they have trouble shifting through the smallest 3 cogs, then they'll re-consider their B-screw tactics, but calm down with this sanctimony about an individual using "hacks" to make their equipment work they way they want it to. It's just a bike, for heck's sake.

Speedy2009

That is correct. Lot of garbage banged and/or expensive RD-6700 Long Cage RD's on ebay.
I was luck to get Brand new (NOS) for a decent price from a Canadian Bike shop.

cxwrench

IMO they have taken into account pretty much anything someone might try, that's why they're so conservative w/ their spec. And no...I'll continue posting advice as I do since it's based on way more experience than pretty much anyone else here. Yes, it's just a bike but the consequences of doing some things can end up being pretty serious financially, physically, or possibly both. When they aren't you can bet that I'll offer any options that I have experience with.

BoraxKid

We're talking about a rear derailleur with a B-tension screw turned around. It's not like the cassette is going to burst into flames and start another wild fire. At worst, OP will have some minor difficulty getting into a higher gear, and will be temporarily stuck in a mildly uncomfortable gear for a short while. To advise against trying a non-standard approach in this case because "it could be serious" is asinine.

Also, you are completely mis-characterizing the reason why Shimano is conservative with their specs. They are conservative precisely because they don't know what some people will try, so Shimano only specs what they have verified themselves. Hence, if you are trying something on equipment that Shimano has not tested, it is perfectly fine to try it and see what the result is for yourself. As long as you don't expect Shimano to be liable for damaged equipment or injuries, there is literally nothing wrong with this approach.