WGB 

I am trying to rebuild an early 70's Bottecchia for a neighbour.

It not only has cottered cranks (one day I'll find a reasonably priced tool), it has a Regina GS Corse freewheel which required sourcing an obsolete removal tool.




My newest issue is the headset. The bars still turn but I want to strip the headset and rebuild it as I'm sure the grease hasn't been changed since it left the factory.

The adjustable race is smooth and only has two very small pin holes to fit a removal tool. I don't want to clamp on an adjustable wrench and trash the finish as finding a replacement might be hard.




juvela thought the headset might be an Agrati or OMG but was unsure based on photos I offered.

Q: Does any one know what tool would work for this type headset? I tried a Park SPA-1 bottom bracket tool but the pins don't ace inwards so only a single pin engages. I have the frame upside down on the stand now with penetrating oil soaking into the cup and hopefully the threads. If I have to I can try a punch but suspect that will damage the pin holes.

SJX426 

As you probably know, this should not require a tool for removal, only one to hold it in place when tightening the jam nut.

Any way, I would try a rubber belt of some kind to wrap around the cup and some handle, even a socket extension, and try removing it like a oil filter on a car. Could use leather too, but something with a high level friction surface. Like a tie down strap mechanism where the belt wraps around the handle and wraps on itself to keep from slipping.

WGB 

Ps I even tried eBay Italy but didn't find a similar headset, let alone a tool to remove one

zukahn1 

I have found you can also sometimes get these loose by putting a small hole punch or screw driver in the hole and tapping it at a angle with mallet.

bulgie 

I took a Park "SPA-3" (the one with the blue handle) and filed down the rectangular pins
until they were round, and just small enough to fit the holes in the headset.
I used a smallish (~6") 2nd-cut or smooth file, and took my time.

Didn't take long, and I've used it lots over the years, so I'd say it was worth it.

I think the SPA-3 model may not be made anymore; look for old-stock where you can find it.


I also made another one from an adjustable pin wrench for BB adj. cups, I think it was a Park SPA-6, but I can't find it right now to take a picture. Start with this:

Clamp one arm in the vise and twist the arm with an adjustable wrench (crescent wrench) 90°, until the pin is facing towards the other arm. Then repeat on the other side. It was fairly easy to do the bending, less than a 5 minute job. Definitely less work than filing the pins on an SPA-3. Possibly could be done with two crescent wrenches or vise-grip pliers if you didn't have a vise.

And if you have access to a VAR #13 adjustable pin wrench, those can have the pins facing either way — like the SPA-6 above before bending, or after bending it. Just remove the pins and thread them into the other holes.


Mark B in Seattle

Kabuki12

It should not be that tight(note should!). Maybe wrap a piece of old tube around the jaws of channel locks and allow only the rubber to grab the headset adjuster. I have done this on chrome plated plumbing fixtures and not marked up the piece.

merziac

WGB

These may work, they have a right angle pin set that may be able to be put in opposing each other. It says they open 2 inches so.....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TG80SY...0Ring%20Pliers

alcjphil

you need a strap wrench
​​​​​​https://www.rona.ca/en/fuller-innova...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

fietsbob

why not just replace the headset with one with 32 mm flats like every one else uses .. ?

bikemig 

I'd try the Hozan headset pliers with a rag underneath so you don't mar the cup:

https://www.amazon.com/HOZAN-C-203-H...a-441435708121

Chombi1 

I suspect the right tool might look like a adjustable channel lock pliers with replaceable hardened steel pins at its jaws, instead of teeth/serrations
I'm a bit puzzled though, why you might need a tool to remove that top race cap, as it shouldn't be screwed on that tight and should not have that much preload pressure on the bearings.......unless maybe your steerer tube threads are messed up?
I suspect those pin holes are used more to hold the threaded top cup when you tighten the top nut against it to lock the race in place.

Cougrrcj

How about using a strap wrench?

https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber...hoCwHAQAvD_BwE

merziac

Paging cb400bill

Can we get these 2 identical threads merged plz?

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...al-advice.html

IdealSteel

Like Cougrrcj said a strap wench. If you don't have one, a leather belt and some vise grips might do the job!

WGB 

Thanks all.

I soaked penetrating oil into the cup for two days. Wrapped in strap then used locking pliers. Came off a charm. Stupid design to have a smooth surface.

I'll probably reuse as only spare headset I have is an NOS 600 Ultegra and this frame doesn't get that!

Onto that $&:#?ing cottered crank set which has a bent pin......

cyccommute 

It’s not the best design but bicycle parts are repleat with silly designs. Usually they work better with the right tool. The hole in the headset is for a C-style adjustable pin spinner. The pin on this one may not exactly right but I suspect it can be modified.

Homebrew01

If you keep it as a spare, grind 2 flats so you can grip with "Channel lock" pliers next time.

verktyg 

That type of headset was quite common BITD, especially on Italian bikes.

Bianchi with integral cups built into the head tube.



Here's the very rare Campy headset tool with the sliding jaws open and closed.




Expensive overkill tool for a stupid design part....

verktyg

Salamandrine 

Wow, that's an impressive bit of over engineering for a basic pin spanner! I've never seen that campy tool before. Thanks for posting.

I remember the VAR tool well. That's what I would have grabbed. Seems like there was a Park pin spanner that worked for this too, but I can't recall the color.

At any rate, I'm sure it would come off with enough hand pressure. A tool is only useful for tightening it back against the locknut when readjusting after it's put back together. Some music wire, a torch, vise, and a grinder would be sufficient to improvise a tool in about 5 minutes.

WGB 

That maybe over engineering but that is still cool.

dddd

Won't it require TWO pin tools to secure the locknut, one for the locknut and one for the cup?

Seeing this design I have to wonder how often that riders in those days suffered loosening headsets while riding on less than securely tight headset nuts.

JohnDThompson 

Yes, the VAR-13 is the proper tool for this, but it should be possible to remove the threaded cup with careful use of a slip-jaw plier.

It's possible that the steer tube is metric thread, which limits replacement parts if the current ones are worn beyond use, but there are some choices still available.

cyccommute 

Road bikes didn’t suffer that much from loose headsets. Mountain bikes of the early 80s to mid90s, on the other hand, often loosened on a each ride and had to be replaced often. There was a huge cottage industry for locking nuts on headsets. Some were as simple as shaft collars and others were engineering marvels with prices to match.