fixed/fixed -> fixed/single?
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fixed/fixed -> fixed/single?
Let me start off by saying that I am relatively new to the whole cycling world. I am currently in the process of putting together a new wheel set for my Bianchi Pista (Japanese spec) and have a question regarding hubs. I have been looking at some second-hand Dura-Ace track hubs that were used for racing. They are noted as being fixed/fixed hubs. Am I correct in assuming that if the the rear hub is threaded on both sides that I could replace one side with a freewheel to convert it to a flip-flop hub? Thanks for your help.
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Yup. Not a problem at all. jim
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I'm too lazy to go downstairs to check for sure, but doesn't a fixed hub have 2 stage threading? Clockwise for the cog and counter clockwise for the lockring?
I'm thinking a fixed/fixed hub would have 2 stage threading on both sides and a fixed/freewheel has only clockwise threading on one side.
I'm thinking a fixed/fixed hub would have 2 stage threading on both sides and a fixed/freewheel has only clockwise threading on one side.
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Let me start off by saying that I am relatively new to the whole cycling world. I am currently in the process of putting together a new wheel set for my Bianchi Pista (Japanese spec) and have a question regarding hubs. I have been looking at some second-hand Dura-Ace track hubs that were used for racing. They are noted as being fixed/fixed hubs. Am I correct in assuming that if the the rear hub is threaded on both sides that I could replace one side with a freewheel to convert it to a flip-flop hub? Thanks for your help.
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+1, no problem with a freewheel on a fixed hub. The reverse thread is smaller and doesn't present a problem.
The reverse isn't true, you shouldn't expect locktite or anything else to properly secure a fixed sprocket onto a hub without the reverse threaded lockring.
The reverse isn't true, you shouldn't expect locktite or anything else to properly secure a fixed sprocket onto a hub without the reverse threaded lockring.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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That's the problem with bonding the sprockets on. You get the worst of two worlds.
You can't rely on to stay on when you need them to, and you can't count on to come off when you want them to.
Try using heat to weaken the bond. If you have a propane torch slowly heat the sprocket while keeping steady torque on it with a chain whip. Be carefull the melting temp of aluminum is fairly low and unlike steel, it goes very suddenly from solid to liquid.
If you expect to do work with heat a lot you might consider using temperature sticks to help you manage the process.
You can't rely on to stay on when you need them to, and you can't count on to come off when you want them to.
Try using heat to weaken the bond. If you have a propane torch slowly heat the sprocket while keeping steady torque on it with a chain whip. Be carefull the melting temp of aluminum is fairly low and unlike steel, it goes very suddenly from solid to liquid.
If you expect to do work with heat a lot you might consider using temperature sticks to help you manage the process.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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That's the problem with bonding the sprockets on. You get the worst of two worlds.
You can't rely on to stay on when you need them to, and you can't count on to come off when you want them to.
Try using heat to weaken the bond. If you have a propane torch slowly heat the sprocket while keeping steady torque on it with a chain whip. Be carefull the melting temp of aluminum is fairly low and unlike steel, it goes very suddenly from solid to liquid.
If you expect to do work with heat a lot you might consider using temperature sticks to help you manage the process.
You can't rely on to stay on when you need them to, and you can't count on to come off when you want them to.
Try using heat to weaken the bond. If you have a propane torch slowly heat the sprocket while keeping steady torque on it with a chain whip. Be carefull the melting temp of aluminum is fairly low and unlike steel, it goes very suddenly from solid to liquid.
If you expect to do work with heat a lot you might consider using temperature sticks to help you manage the process.
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I'm too lazy to go downstairs to check for sure, but doesn't a fixed hub have 2 stage threading? Clockwise for the cog and counter clockwise for the lockring?
I'm thinking a fixed/fixed hub would have 2 stage threading on both sides and a fixed/freewheel has only clockwise threading on one side.
I'm thinking a fixed/fixed hub would have 2 stage threading on both sides and a fixed/freewheel has only clockwise threading on one side.
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