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Hints and tricks thread

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Hints and tricks thread

Old 06-21-18, 08:36 PM
  #626  
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That crimp pattern looks rather nice. If I don't have a crimper around I will just press it but that certainly looks a lot more trick and with some skills and patience or maybe a CNC machine you could probably come up with some different patterns!
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Old 06-21-18, 09:42 PM
  #627  
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Originally Posted by ElijahCooper View Post
sjanzeir Your post 622 - It turned out well, but it seems to me that now it will not be so convenient to get a bottle, because now it hangs very low, don't you think so?
The bike - aforementioned hack included - is gone now, so it doesn't matter anymore. To answer your question, though, the bottle actually sat higher than it would on my Speed or Mu (both of which thankfully have bottle cage bosses from the factory; no such shenanigans required.) It sat higher than it would on a typical diamond frame such as my 7.6, with the added convenience of not having to fiddle my way around a top tube reaching down for it.

Last edited by sjanzeir; 06-21-18 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 06-27-18, 03:12 AM
  #628  
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Originally Posted by SylvainG View Post
Hold post but currently going through some of them. Found this on Google, adjustable cone wrench

Bicycle Cone Wrench

Do it with one of these for the win:

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Old 07-01-18, 05:03 PM
  #629  
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Using a vacuum to get spoke nipples out after they've fallen inside your rim

When spoke nipples fall inside a rim they are a nuisance to get out. What I find that works best to get them out is a vacuum. If you don't have a Shop-Vac or equivalent you will need to create a better vacuum inside the rim.

To create a better vacuum, first have all the nipples attached to the spokes and tightened, then cover the valve hole on the inner side of the rim with tape. ​​Second, use a rim strip or something non-adhesive to cover the spoke holes on the outer side of the rim leaving the valve hole open (there is no need to do this with a Shop-Vac). Next, position the rim so the valve hole is at the bottom and shake the rim to move the nipples near the valve hole. Finally, place the vacuum over the valve hole and suck the nipples out.

I use a Shop-Vac because it has tremendous suction, but most household vacuum cleaners will work if you create a better vacuum inside the rim. Be sure to empty your vacuum cleaner before use to make it easier to find the nipples.

Last edited by hrdknox1; 07-01-18 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 07-01-18, 08:38 PM
  #630  
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Rear wheel quick release

To remove the rear wheel you do not have to unscrew the quick release. The rear drop outs do not have notches, and you can remove the wheel just by releasing the skewer.
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Old 07-02-18, 09:47 AM
  #631  
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Yeah, that's why they call it a quick release. In fact, many people (including my self) file off the 'lawer lips' on their front forks, so that quick release is also actually quick.
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Old 07-10-18, 11:42 PM
  #632  
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Originally Posted by RubeRad View Post
Yeah, that's why they call it a quick release. In fact, many people (including my self) file off the 'lawer lips' on their front forks, so that quick release is also actually quick.
Damn straight. Death to lawyer tabs!
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Old 07-17-18, 11:31 AM
  #633  
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To save yourself from having to clean the vaccuum cleaner first, use cheesecloth or grab a pair of pantyhoses from the dollarstore and put it over the vacuum tube held on by an elastic
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Old 08-12-18, 05:05 PM
  #634  
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My 7.6FX's factory-installed Wellgo bear trap pedals didn't come with toe clips and straps. When I bought the bike, I picked up with it these VP pedals with straps built in:



Problem is, even with the straps and toe clips, they were crap for holding my feet straight. The originals, on the other hand, are great for keeping my feet in place, but not all that great on the upstroke.

Thing is, being broke and all, I couldn't spend money I haven't got to order straps online, nor were aftermarket toe clips available for me to buy at any of the local shops. I had a second pair of the same VP pedals lying around in a drawer, the spindle of one of which was bent and wobbly, so I decided to see if I could cannibalize them for the toe clips and find a way to bolt them to the Wellgos somehow. It turned out well enough.

I started with unscrewing the toe clips from the VPs:



Then pried out the reflector at the base of the toe clip:



Now, there were three nuts molded into the resin of the toe clip, so I had to cut these out so as to use two of them later to bolt the toe clip to the cage of the Wellgo (see next post):





Now on to cutting off all the excess resin:



(Continued below.)

Last edited by sjanzeir; 08-16-18 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 08-12-18, 05:06 PM
  #635  
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(Continued)

Making the necessary measurements and drilling the requisite holes (by hand; no need to hook up a power drill, as the resin material is soft enough):





The base is 58.5mm wide. The screw holes on the Wellgo pedal where the the toe clip will sit (in place of the original reflector) are exactly one inch/25.4mm apart. I measured 16.5mm from each side in and 4mm down from the thick part of the base (the screw head is 8mm in diameter) and marked out where to drill.

Now, prying the reflector off of the front side of the Wellgo (the hole where the strap goes into the body of the pedal, and the corresponding "tongue" in the cage, indicate the back side of the pedal):



Now, screwing the toe clip to the same holes where the reflector used to fit, using the same bolts that used to hold the toe clip to its original VP body (and the same nuts seen earlier):





I even managed to push the reflector back into its holder without breaking it!



And voila! Two bear trap pedals with toe clips and straps!



Now, I have no idea if or for how long this kind of setup will hold up before the first toe clip breaks off, but I'm hoping for the best here.

The original VPs, intact and sacrificed:




Last edited by sjanzeir; 08-13-18 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 08-12-18, 05:10 PM
  #636  
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One more thing - the rubber seals of those original Wellgos were shot as the bike sat behind a sun-drenched window at the showroom for months, so I had to finagle replacements. I dug out a pair of rubber caps - probably the kind used to plug holes in furniture; I couldn't tell you for sure - and cut out holes in the middle, then I slipped them over the ends of the shafts and had them shield the exposed ball bearings from the elements:





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Old 08-18-18, 06:07 PM
  #637  
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Thank you Very Much!

Originally Posted by zammykoo View Post
This one is not really a bike maintenance tip but something useful for those with the base model Park Tool repair stand. You can 3d print your own add-ons (if you have a printer or know someone who does).

Leg clip for storage:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1272344

Tool caddy:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1275681

Hex wrench bracket:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1695559

Misc tool holder:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:49227
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Old 08-26-18, 06:30 PM
  #638  
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I think I'm posting this in the right place. Any tricks to unseizing this this stem?
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Old 09-05-18, 09:12 AM
  #639  
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Originally Posted by rmfnla View Post
geez, 36 posts and nothing about making sure the beer is cold (& plentiful).

What's the wrenching world coming to..?
hear hear!!!
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Old 09-14-18, 06:54 AM
  #640  
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Google is your friend

Originally Posted by depshop View Post
I think I'm posting this in the right place. Any tricks to unseizing this this stem?
If you google frame stuck stem or handlebar stuck, excellent sites of very knowledgeable people will come up, including my favorites, Park Tool, Sheldonbrown, davebikeblog, mytenspeeds, and many many more. Some stems are permanently bonded so good luck.
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Old 09-14-18, 07:18 AM
  #641  
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Originally Posted by depshop View Post
I think I'm posting this in the right place. Any tricks to unseizing this this stem?

Usually I would flip the bike upside down and spray penetrating oil down the fork so that it reaches the stem. Rinse and repeat every hour or two. The next day, I would flip the bike back over with the wheel in the fork, clamp the wheels with your leg and turn the stem to see if it's loosened up a little (it's easier with handlebars inside the stem). If that fails, keep trying that for the the next two or three days and if it still doesn't come out, then I resort to cutting the stem out.
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Old 09-15-18, 05:30 PM
  #642  
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The pictures are missing! Could you post them again, please?
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Old 11-23-18, 09:38 PM
  #643  
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Goat Head season never seems to end in my area. I had some Shoe Goo laying around and wondered if I could use it to repair my collection of old yet good tubes. After a few trials I was able to apply a thin enough layer to seal the small punctures. I figure I've saved a few bucks from new tubes and patch kits.
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Old 12-27-18, 01:01 AM
  #644  
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Propane torch

Originally Posted by depshop View Post
I think I'm posting this in the right place. Any tricks to unseizing this this stem?
I would clean out as much grease from the upper pressed race. maybe get the bearings out, breaking the cage, for good measure.

use a vice to hold the stem, support the rear triangle on a saw horse or chair.

find an area where you can safely use an open flame, grab a pair of insulated gloves.

use a propane torch to heat the fork steerer tube. It may turn red hot. Focus the heat on the part of the tube that is in contact with the stem.

the steel will expand as it gets hot. So will the aluminum stem. If you heat them both for too long, they will stay fused.


Give it a try, best to heat the fork up quickly, then grab the blades and twist. A stubby 2x4 in the fork crown can be a big help, but is also capable damaging the fork.

Last edited by 206Moser; 12-27-18 at 01:02 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 01-21-19, 12:57 PM
  #645  
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Ebike Battery problems

Hi All, I have a Giant Twist Freedom DX.. it has been done for over a year and the battery is dead. What are my options?

Can the Battery be recharged? and if so how is this done?
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Old 01-21-19, 01:11 PM
  #646  
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Originally Posted by chrisgill19 View Post
Hi All, I have a Giant Twist Freedom DX.. it has been done for over a year and the battery is dead. What are my options?

Can the Battery be recharged? and if so how is this done?
Try asking in the Ebikes forum. https://www.bikeforums.net/electric-bikes/ You'll get much better response over there.
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Old 02-09-19, 11:07 AM
  #647  
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As a general tip, use your brain before you use force. I learned this the hard way when I installed my bottom bracket cups the wrong way around on a brand new frame. They didn't seem to be going in, so I got a bigger wrench. BAD IDEA. Now I got a frame with horrible burrs left on the bb threading to remind me of my stupidity.

Sit back, think a bit. Get some white spirit, clean your components and tools with a cloth soaked in some. If there is exess paint left from the production process on the bb threading, get a dremel with a fine wire brush nib and brush it off gently. put some anti-seize on the thread. Look at some images online to see how it's meant to be done, and do it gently when you're doing it, if it needs a nudge at the end, give it a nudge but you shouldn't have to apply force when you've just started out on the thread.

Don't use lube in a spray can, no matter how steady your trigger finger, you'll just make a mess, or worse get it on your disc/rim and make your brakes useless in effect. If you already bought some, find an empty eye dropper bottle and spray some of the lube into the spray cap and pull it into the eye dropper by squeezing it like a pipette with the nozzle submerged in the lube and releasing your hold on the dropper. Fill it up like that every once in a while for a mess free lube dropper.

When patching a flat, use the little cheese grater that comes with the set to make the surface of the patch and inner tube more rough, don't over do it, you don't want to rip your tube to shreds. You can use a patch of sand paper if you don't have the grater. Do this because the patches supplied have a really smooth and grippy surface that doesn't bond with the glue, they'll just peel away. Use some alcohol, or even better, some lighter fluid to wipe the surface you're gluing to remove any oil or grease. Lighter fluid is better because it is the same solvent which is used as a base for rubber cement as well as the patch (if you don't believe me, rub some into a patch and it will get sticky) which makes the bond better.

If you're out of patches, cut some out from an old inner tube. Just make sure you wash it in water or with a solvent because it has a talk like powder on the inside which resists sticking.

DON'T use superglue to bond a patch, not even as a quick fix. Superglue dries into a hard, but brittle bond that will just crack when the inner tube expands and when the patch experiences crushing pressure under your weight. You're just gonna have to do it again, and you'll have a mess of it too, superglue is a pain to remove. Best so carry a spare inner tube, or two just in case an @$$hole pops both your tyres.

If you don't have tyre levers, use a pair of spanners, but do it carefully so you don't pinch the tube. In general, plastic levers are better than metal levers or spanners because they don't scratch the rim, use them with care and they won't snap either.

Put oil on your chain, grease on your bearings, anti-seize on any threads you don't open often and loctite on thread you revisit regularly (so you don't make a mess of your hands during handling) i.e. wheel axles, chain tensioner nuts, seat post screws, brake cable fastener bolts, stem bolts, etc...

Clean your tools after every job with white spirit and a cloth, keep them organised in a toolbox.

When purchasing new parts, measure the ones you are replacing to make sure you are buying the right size. Don't use a ruler, be precise, get yourself a set of cheap electronic calipers, they only cost like 4.50 on ebay. Don't buy the cheapest parts from china, they'll just break down, don't buy the most expensive stuff either, you'll just get ripped off. Buy in between, if you do your shopping on ebay, look for the items with the best reviews, feedbacks and the most purchases made. Be smart, use the filter options, don't settle for best match, start from lowest price and scroll down to find the best rated stuff.

If you don't have a specialised tool to open a bb or to remove a freewheel, you can just use a flat end screwdriver and a hammer to unscrew the part with frequent, gentle taps, sort of like using a chiesel and hammer but gently. When you're done, go on ebay and get the tool for the future, do it like a pro.

They say grease is the word. Seems like a very complicated issue for ppl. From my experience, you can't go wrong with lithium based grease for roller bearings. It has a good consistency, not too thick, not too thin. It has a good resistance to heat meaning it won't drip out of your bb in the summer when it gets hot. It resists shear meaning it won't seperate into soap and oil under rolling stress of the bearings. Well then, what's the best lithium based grease to get you may ask? Just get the cheapest is the answer, it's all lithium based anyway. Carlube makes 500g tub of LM2 grease for like 5. BOOM, problem solved, get it now and be done with the dilema for the rest of your life.

There, that's all for me.

Kret

Last edited by krecik; 02-09-19 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 02-09-19, 11:48 AM
  #648  
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One more.

Don't lock your bike through your wheel cos someone will nick your frame and back wheel. Don't lock your bike through your frame cos someone will nick your wheels. Get a long wire link and link it through your whole bike in an 8 shaped pattern starting with the front wheel, cross it through the frame and lock it at the rear wheel.

Hope these help.

Kret
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Old 02-11-19, 08:51 PM
  #649  
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My latest video demonstrating SRAM Double Tap cable replacement...

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Old 02-13-19, 03:08 PM
  #650  
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Just had to cut a new 10 speed chain. OPS - old tool made for 7/9 speed. Ten minutes with a file and it now works with 10 speed chains.
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