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Specialized Steerer Tube Collar Torque?

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Specialized Steerer Tube Collar Torque?

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Old 02-01-19, 09:29 AM
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oscar2
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Specialized Steerer Tube Collar Torque?

Does anyone know the new torque spec on Specialized recalled replacement steerer tube collar? (on Future Shock equipped bikes) The safety notice mentions a new torque spec along with the new collar to correct the issue, but the replacement part didn't come with any indication of torque requirements?
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Old 02-01-19, 10:27 AM
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Steerer tube collar ?

No .. but a bolt threaded into aluminum will strip out the threads in the collar if you overdo it. sooner than if a nut of steel is included..


did you ask your specialized brand bike dealer yet, or the company.. ??

Without a torque wrench , if post does not slip down . when you ( of moderate weight) sit on the saddle, it's tight enough..


I used a QBP locking spacers go on top of my steerer tube of my integrated headset fitted bike, Just so It's fork did not fall out when i removed the stem ,
Its tiny bolt , threaded into aluminum did not need much torque at all to do that.








....

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Old 02-01-19, 11:32 AM
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I would contact a Specialized dealer (that you bought the bike from?) or the company directly for a torque spec. Especially given the change stated.

But most all torque values published are the max and often a lower amount will work and have a greater "safety margin" (WRT over tightening). Andy
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Old 02-01-19, 12:40 PM
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I just had the collar replaced on my 2018 Roubaix Sport. I found a Specialized pdf online with the specs, but this forum won't allow me to include links until I have 10 posts. (I was going to post a screenshot) I can't recall where I found the pdf, but here are the specs:

This is for the 'locator bolt', which inserts at the front side of the collar: 1.0 Nm, 9.5 in-lbf. The pdf then says to "apply blue Loctite 242, then install the locator bolt in the collar to lock the collar on the steerer tube. Tighten until snug. Do not exceed 9.5 in-lbf (1.0 Nm)."

Those are the only torque specs listed. There is other info on assembly and lube. I likely found this pdf somewhere on the Specialized site; sorry can't be more specific. I believe the info was part of an updated manual for maintaining the Future Shock assembly.
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Old 02-01-19, 01:39 PM
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The OP is asking about the collar. The torque was reduced from 6.2 Nm to 4.0Nm.. The locater screw at the front of the steerer tube is 1.0 Nm with using Loctite 242.
Note: The collar has a Allen head steel bolt that threads into a steel cylinder nut. The bolt, nut and shank should all lubricated with a high quality grease. The plastic cap cover that has a hole in it for access to the clamp, has 6.2 Nm marked on it. Specialized did not issue a new cover, so I used a black felt tip marker and covered the old torque (6.2Nm) and made a small Brother label maker sticker with the 4.0Nm torque. Just so no one over torque's the collar. The service letter does not include this information. I got this from the shop letter.
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Old 02-01-19, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by oscar2 View Post
Thanks Sirkaos That's the information I was looking for. My shop mechanic is out of town, so I opted to put it on myself rather than wait for him to get back.
That is actually a violation of the warranty process and can likely lead to issues if you have to replace the frame or deal with warranty stuff down the line unless your shop decides to lie for you. The collars and their replacement was to be done at a dealer there are no other options. I have never heard of any sort of warranty stuff that a company has cleared someone to do on their own unless it is some disreputable company but even they probably wouldn't want to get sued.
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Old 02-01-19, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes View Post
That is actually a violation of the warranty process and can likely lead to issues if you have to replace the frame or deal with warranty stuff down the line unless your shop decides to lie for you. The collars and their replacement was to be done at a dealer there are no other options. I have never heard of any sort of warranty stuff that a company has cleared someone to do on their own unless it is some disreputable company but even they probably wouldn't want to get sued.
+1
Dont do it yourself. There is high liability in this issue. No more than you would do an airbag recall replacement on your own. There is high probability that the old collars will be destroyed by Specialized. Shops would have to account for this. Wait and do this the right way. I know how to replace this collar and I have done it several times, but I let the local Specialized dealer handle this, no question.
☹️ I wish I had known you were attempting to do this yourself, I would NOT have shared the information. If you have installed the collar, reverse the process and install the old one and take it in and have Specialized mechanic install the new collar.
Dont be an effing idiot! Seriously!!

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Old 02-01-19, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sirkaos View Post
+1
Dont do it yourself. There is high liability in this issue. No more than you would do an airbag recall replacement on your own. There is high probability that the old collars will be destroyed by Specialized. Shops would have to account for this. Wait and do this the right way. I know how to replace this collar and I have done it several times, but I let the local Specialized dealer handle this, no question.
Thanks!

If you have another bike ride that for a bit, if not N+1 is not just a useful formula but a way to live life. Always good to have a backup bike for so many reasons but especially in situations like this when one bike needs service you have another one to ride or a friend comes by that you trust and they want to ride but don't have one of their own you can decide if you want to let them borrow one of yours. Also good to have something with wider tires for a little more ability to go off road maybe not to a moun-tain but some grav-grav or fire roads and also for winter riding assuming you have winter in your area I know for me and many others across the U.S. we have winter for sure (even Mars like conditions)
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Old 02-02-19, 06:49 AM
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The bikes come new with spare Future Shock parts, intended to be changed by the user. The manual even includes directions with the torque specs. However that spec has changed. It's really not rocket science.
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Old 02-02-19, 03:23 PM
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You have a torque wrench? use the lower number & see if things move, un desirably , if they do, use the other one..

Rocket Science? This not being even a question you need ed an outsourced answer?



Nobody in the County even sells those.. after the 1 dealer retired.. took up lake sailing ..
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Old 02-20-19, 03:49 AM
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So here is my side of the story. My old collar had showed no issues since i got the bike (i examined it carefully after the recall and i allways clean the bike properly after every ride especially the under part of the plastic cap and around the collar) but anyway i had it replaced with the new one at LBS.
I had read the topic about FS cartridge “regulary” service and told the guys at LBS about it but they had no idea and claimed that they didnt find anything about it on their “deep googling” 😑
So i had a few idea what i m dealing with. That said, i asked them what grease they are gonna use for the spring if i need it to be serviced. Well... they told me they ve never opened a single one so far. (İt s been more than 2 years i guess since they started selling Roubaix, Diverge etc)
Guess what next; they dont know the new torque value either. 🏆 and ı m sure the guy who did the replacement didnt use a torque wrench cause he told me that 4nM is not enough in his opinion. 😩
I ve read it here that it is 4 nM and also i emailed spz about it just to be sure. Waiting for answer atm.
Finally i took the bike to my friend who is a decent mech guy , to re assemble the whole thing properly according to the manual (fork+cartridge+preload screws etc) and grease/carbon paste them and of course check the torque values.
Im pretty sure that we did it all good but now there is a micro noise coming from somewhere in the headset when i drop the front of the bike to the ground wich we couldnt locate it.
So my questions :
- How tight the pre load screws (2mm) should be when you make them contact the compression ring ? There is not a torque value for these in the manual.
- İs your plastic cap moves sideward just a bit too ? And how to tighten it ?
- We applied shimano green grease for the spring, the collar bolt/nut/shank and the fork assembly , muc off carbon paste between the FS cartridge and steerer tube. I would like to hear your opinion about these too. Do you think Park poly or slick honey is a must for the spring ?

I will update when i get a reply from spz and if i locate that noise.

Hami
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Last edited by hami; 02-20-19 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 02-20-19, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by hami View Post
So here is my side of the story
Who cares, it's a recall issue, get it fixed under recall
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Old 02-20-19, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jimc101 View Post
Who cares, it's a recall issue, get it fixed under recall
omg how couldnt i see this ? I will immediately report this topic and sue my self.
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Old 02-20-19, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by hami View Post

omg how couldnt i see this ? I will immediately report this topic and sue my self.
Well, it's one way to push your post count.
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Old 02-20-19, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jimc101 View Post
Well, it's one way to push your post count.
Thats all i care about... my post count.
Anyway thanks for the reply. You re the first to “care” and comment on “my side of the story” .
Be well.
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Old 02-20-19, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by hami View Post
So here is my side of the story. My old collar had showed no issues since i got the bike (i examined it carefully after the recall and i allways clean the bike properly after every ride especially the under part of the plastic cap and around the collar) but anyway i had it replaced with the new one at LBS.
I had read the topic about FS cartridge “regulary” service and told the guys at LBS about it but they had no idea and claimed that they didnt find anything about it on their “deep googling” 😑
So i had a few idea what i m dealing with. That said, i asked them what grease they are gonna use for the spring if i need it to be serviced. Well... they told me they ve never opened a single one so far. (İt s been more than 2 years i guess since they started selling Roubaix, Diverge etc)
Guess what next; they dont know the new torque value either. 🏆 and ı m sure the guy who did the replacement didnt use a torque wrench cause he told me that 4nM is not enough in his opinion. 😩
I ve read it here that it is 4 nM and also i emailed spz about it just to be sure. Waiting for answer atm.
Finally i took the bike to my friend who is a decent mech guy , to re assemble the whole thing properly according to the manual (fork+cartridge+preload screws etc) and grease/carbon paste them and of course check the torque values.
Im pretty sure that we did it all good but now there is a micro noise coming from somewhere in the headset when i drop the front of the bike to the ground wich we couldnt locate it.
So my questions :
- How tight the pre load screws (2mm) should be when you make them contact the compression ring ? There is not a torque value for these in the manual.
- İs your plastic cap moves sideward just a bit too ? And how to tighten it ?
- We applied shimano green grease for the spring, the collar bolt/nut/shank and the fork assembly , muc off carbon paste between the FS cartridge and steerer tube. I would like to hear your opinion about these too. Do you think Park poly or slick honey is a must for the spring ?

I will update when i get a reply from spz and if i locate that noise.

Hami
Turkey (we need help here !)
I think you're saying that you've already had the recall work done and you're not satisfied with that job which was carried out by your LBS. I'm guessing that you don't have another (different) Specialized dealer nearby to have the work checked (and re-done to eliminate the noise you're now experiencing).

If the above is true then I think all you can do is either:

a) complain to the manager of your LBS that the work carried out wasn't up to standard (if you mention rider safety enough, you should get some traction); or

b) if a) is not fruitful, contact Specialized again and explain the situation to them (as long as you don't mind effectively reporting your LBS to Specialized) and wait for a reply.

As others have mentioned on this thread, the recall work needs to be carried out by a dealer for the warranty to cover it so redoing the work yourself is out of the question unless you're prepared to take that risk (I really wouldn't).
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