shoota 

I'll tell you why. My shifting quality never lasts. The under-bb cable guide just gets way too dusty and dirty and even if it is shifting well it is so flipping squeaky I can't stand it. I can't wait to get rid of wires. Can not wait.

Happy Feet

Excessively dusty and squeaky cables? I'm afraid to ask how you feel about chains

I think people should buy what they like etc... and I'd buy the "I just wanna have it" argument all day no problem but that much money to try to improve the linear shifting of a 1x system just seems excessive.

shoota 

My chain is fine. I think I'm missing your point.

And yeah, it's way too expensive. That's why I'm putting all my hopes and dreams into the Force eTap release in April.

Happy Feet

Does your chain get dusty? Anyways, not important.

I look at technology on bikes like this: What problems does it solve. What problems does it create.

Friction shifting: Simple to fix/adjust. Need a feel for placement.
Index shifting: Less need for "feel". Needs more adjustment.
Brifters: Easy hand access to shifting. When broken brakes and shifter need replacing. Can't repair in the field.
Electronic: More precise shifting. Battery dependent, can't repair in field.

For a road bike I get that the pro's of tech may outweigh the cons and there is always the option of calling for a ride if something craps out but if one is gravel riding off the beaten path that avenue may not be as available. If I were to replace old for new I would want the pros to be enough to outweigh the cons. For me, 1x linear shifting isn't that hard that I need/want such a solution. I would feel bad asking my wife to drive a distance and then maybe 100km down a dubious gravel/forestry road (if possible) to pick me up because my etap crapped out. I tend to be self sufficient that way. To fix a friction or even index shifter that can be turned friction I need nothing more than a spare rear derailer cable in my tool kit.

That's just my rationale on it.

shoota 

Nope, chain doesn't get dusty in the same way.

Happy Feet

Then just coat the cable with what ever you lube the chain with

trailangel

My front deraileur cable is dirty so I took off the front DR and Chainring.
Now my rear DR cable is dirty and I need to take that off too.
Now my chain is dirty so I will remove as well.

shoota 

Caliper

I think you and I have a different definition of "big jumps". Looking at the midrange, I'm seeing plenty of spaces on that 9-46 where an upshift at a 100rpm cadence will drop you into the low 80's just to go through the gears. My 11-36 10sp (same as a 11-42 11sp, just missing the 42) bugs me at times with too much of a drop and has smaller jumps.

Bryan C. 

That's more is a personal preference really. I can easily spin at 110 rpm and a drop in 15 to 20 rpm may be a problem for some it may not be for me. Plenty of people have their own opinions and say even a 11-32 cassette has too big of gaps for their taste. To each his own.

But semantics aside unless you are running a triple crankset and a small space cassette there will always be trade offs and concessions made for the expanded range afforded by the wide range cassettes. Just depends on how tolerant and how strong of a rider you are.

TimothyH

Chainless downhill is a thing.


-Tim-

redlude97

https://www.jensonusa.com/Jagwire-Bl...ts-18mm-Cables
solves all the issues on my superx, use with the new shimano nosed ferrules. No problems in dusty or muddy conditions

shoota 

Well son of a gun. $10 for 30m isn't too bad of a price either. Can you link "the new shimano nosed ferrules" for me please? I'm not familiar with those. Thanks!

HerrKaLeun

excellent price.
Is that as good as the Shimano SP41?
I'm a sucker for the best cables to eliminate all issues from that end. I use Optislick cables for that reason.

redlude97

I use the ones 3rd from the left

They fit into the slots and you can slide the housing liner over(sorry for the out of focus image)

They fit into the BB cable guide and keep things tidy


These aren't replacement for normal cable housing, its to run inbetween cable stops that normally have exposed cables to keep things cleaner.

shoota 

Wow thanks for the pics! That really helps. Question: what keeps the liners from slipping out of the ferrules and bunching up or slipping down the cable?

Edit: Wait, the liner goes OVER the end of the ferrule?

redlude97

The BB guide holds them pretty tight(install them before inserting the cables) and the liner fits tightly over the ferrules so they don't slip around. On my superx, its set up 1X so not sure how well it would work for the FD cable but on the CAADX I just run the liner up to the FD(6800) connection point with ~1/2" of bare cable sticking out so its technically not a sealed system so water and contamination could come in through the top. I just put a little great on the top and it seems to keep water and dirt out mostly and the FD is less sensitive to contamination. I can take a pic of that at some point if you want to see that setup. For the superx I would guess you'd just cut the liner long enough so that it butts up against the frame where the whole for the FD cable runs into. For the rear you just have the cable stops and ferrules on both ends keeping the entire cable length closed.

redlude97

Yea over the hosed section of the ferrule, I edited my post to indicate the 3rd ferrule from the left, I think I had to stretch the end of the liner just a hair with a straight pick tool

shoota 

Ok awesome thanks man. The 3rd ferrule from the left makes more sense to me and I get the installation process now. Off to order...

HerrKaLeun

I don't get it, why do you have the cable stops then at all and not full housing? On an old bike i just drilled out the cable stops and ran full housing. No messing around with different type of housings, and fewer entry points for dirt and water.

redlude97

sure that would be another option, but I'd rather deal with nonpermanent solutions than modifying a frame I likely won't keep for more than a few years. You'd still have to figure out a solution for the FD which can't take full housing also

HerrKaLeun

The old bike I mentioned I just sold as is with the new housing. I doubt any prospective buyer will object and demand to have the old-school solution of exposed cables. My last 2 bikes with FD had the FD cable coming from above and one of them already came with full housing from the factory. Running the cable under the BB seems problematic. I don't remember the full detail here, since i took converted both to 1x a long time ago... but sure had them both in full housing before converting to 1x.

Drilling out the cable stops won't impair the structure and for an aluminum frame won't cause corrosion issues. It actually drills quite easily. with a steel frame the situation would be different, through.

shoota 

Good idea. I'll drill my carbon frame tonight.

HerrKaLeun

I guess then it was good I only recommended doing that for Al....😁

Are the stops made of Cf, or are they metal on a Cf frame? Not trolling, but bottle cage holes are metal inserts too.

shoota 

I'm perfectly fine with not altering my frame right now, and instead trying out the cable liners first.