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Old 08-27-18, 09:32 AM
  #5101  
queerpunk
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Y'all:
Piling on southernfox (or anybody else) is extremely wack, getting very old, and making this otherwise almost-good-resource a worse place to be and contribute to. We have slowly built this forum up from a literal single digit handful of users. Please stop showing people the door.
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Old 08-27-18, 02:30 PM
  #5102  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk View Post
Y'all:
Piling on southernfox (or anybody else) is extremely wack, getting very old, and making this otherwise almost-good-resource a worse place to be and contribute to. We have slowly built this forum up from a literal single digit handful of users. Please stop showing people the door.
Good luck with that.
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Old 08-27-18, 02:56 PM
  #5103  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk View Post
Y'all:
Piling on southernfox (or anybody else) is extremely wack, getting very old, and making this otherwise almost-good-resource a worse place to be and contribute to. We have slowly built this forum up from a literal single digit handful of users. Please stop showing people the door.
I agree. But I will respond because I feel(and know) that this may be directed to me as I have resoonded (or piled on as you say) recently. I generally will stick up for and defend those that may be getting a rough ride if they're being singled out for no reason. I also won't give a pass for underhanded behaviour, whether you be man, woman, old, young, or anything in between. In other words, if you're going to stir the pot, then you better be ready to lick the spoon. There isn't anything that has been "piled" on SF that wasn't directly related to something she said, or how she chose to say it. You choose to say or do things a certain way, people will respond to you accordingly.

I've been a member of this forum for the better part of 15 years. People have come and gone, but most have stayed. Those that have gone have mostly moved onto other endeavours, or gotten the advice that they came for and either left or lurk. That says a lot about the good quality of the information and people that we have available here. It's a pretty supportive and peaceful space for the most part. Generally, if there is drama, it's not an underlying problem, it's been brought into the forum. The proof is in the thousands of threads available here.

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Old 08-27-18, 03:28 PM
  #5104  
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Agreed.

This forum is one of the slowest, most boring track forums on the internet (past or present)...with the highest signal/noise ratio.

Maybe something happened with SF as I took several days/weeks away from keeping up with things here? Did the posts get deleted? Last thing I saw was the 'big gear for all riders in all kerins conversations'.

Personally, I like to deal with disagreements at a "unit level" and not with "the whole", as in I will disagree with a particular point that is being made, but that doesn't mean that I disagree with that person as a whole.

I think I make my points very clear in the threads.

I also feel like I'm open to change and open to being refuted. I actually welcome being proven wrong as it is an opportunity for me to ditch old/bad info and adopt new info. I gain nothing when my ideas are confirmed. I gain a LOT when they are disproven!

If I've been out of line in particular, please let me know where and when.

EDIT:

I learned of the concept of approaching debates as "Which idea is right?" not "Which person is right?". That switch alone defuses a lot.

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Old 08-28-18, 07:36 AM
  #5105  
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I just try to be polite and respectful on any forum or social media, seems to work ok for me.
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Old 08-28-18, 10:19 AM
  #5106  
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personally I think conflict is inevitable with online forum. There will always be something lost in translation that ends up with someone "taking it" in a different context than it was written. There are also just **** starters, people who get too quick to defend, take offense to slights (either real or imagined) etc. It's the nature of the beast. Generally when you get two or more strongly opinionated people who disagree, there is the kindling for a hot exchange.

Also, while I understand there are very good reasons to have anonymity on the internet, I found that once I started using a more personal handle I did a bit more thinking before I posted. For the same reason I believe most Facebook groups are more civil than their corresponding forums... you know exactly who you are having an exchange with, not just xxCoOlGuY6969xx.
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Old 08-28-18, 05:45 PM
  #5107  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post

... you know exactly who you are having an exchange with, not just xxCoOlGuY6969xx.
And there goes the secret identity behind my CandyCrush handle
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Old 08-29-18, 07:20 AM
  #5108  
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Originally Posted by taras0000 View Post
And there goes the secret identity behind my CandyCrush handle
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Old 08-29-18, 09:06 AM
  #5109  
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Hi, first time post here - i have literally just read through all 206 pages of this thread to make sure my questions hadn't already been answered previously. Quite a few got answered, so i'm glad i did but i do have a few that I will pose to you all as soon as i have gathered my thoughts correctly. ( i am sure you cannot wait!)

First and most pressing to me at the moment is I have been offered a pair of DT Swiss RC 55 Track Tubular wheels for less than half price from a friend of a friend. Does anyone have any experience of DT Swiss carbon wheels for track use? I have heard they have a reasonable reputation in the box section ally rims but i don't know much about their carbon history.
The wheels also have a recommended system weight of 100 kg - I weigh 95-98kg depending on whether im at race weight or not. With bike and rider i would probably be looking at 103 - 106 ish KG system weight. In your opinion ( not holding you to anything), would you think that this is within the wiggle room that manufacturers give themsleves when setting these limits? 100kg system weight seems quite low to me, given that these wheels are aimed at track riders who are not all whippets like most roadies. Zipp give just a rider weight limit higher than this, not a system limit for example.

For clarification, these will mostly be used in Sprint events, but i am still v early in my track "career" to specialise so i will take part in as many different events as i can so they will see scratch and points race use as well for example. They would also be used both at an indoor & outdoor velodrome ( Lee Valley & Herne Hill here in London. The outdoor surface at Herne Hill is actually pretty good so no major bumps)

The only info i can find on the wheel is a short review at Cycling weekly.( I cant post the url yet as i dont have 10 posts)

Any inisght gratefully recieved!
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Old 08-29-18, 09:08 AM
  #5110  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post

This is difficult to get used to on a road/TT bike. I've heard stories of people slipping off of them and wrecking on the road.

I wouldn't suggest it for the track because fixed gear makes getting into and staying in the right position that much harder. And if you slip off at high cadences, recovering and not crashing is near impossible.
Regarding Adamo saddles, I crashed earlier this year doing seated sprint training on my road bike with one.
I Hit a lump in the road surface and i was knocked off the short perch at the front of the Adamo. I ended up straddling the top tube (but over to one side) and after a few long moments I ended up skittering down the road. Lots of skin lost and a broken frame were what i ended up with. Thank goodness for insurance!
I wouldn't want to experience that same situation on a fixed gear - i think it would have been much worse as once bucked, you are no longer pedalling, so you would likely be pitched over the front of the bike rather than "low siding" as we used to call it in my motorcycle days.

That said, i do still love my Adamo saddles, but i think i will only use them for timetrialling going forward.
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Old 08-29-18, 09:23 AM
  #5111  
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I believe DT uses Reynolds carbon rims, which are solid rims and reputable. And weight limits are usually fairly conservative, so I think you should probably be OK, but I'm not an expert on that and I did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.
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Old 08-29-18, 10:22 AM
  #5112  
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Re Adamo saddle; I have ridden one for about three years on the track. It did take a while (I mean a couple of months) to fully acclimate to it, but I am sold on it. I was having some serious plumbing problems during and after longer events like points races and scratch races and switched to the Adamo to get some relief. I no longer do mass start races, but it works great for sprint events. I am now having similar problems with my road bike and will probably get an Adamo for it once track season is over and I start riding the road more. Perhaps being older than most of the folks here and enlarged prostate was the deciding factor that gave me the patience to get used to the thing.
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Old 08-29-18, 11:01 AM
  #5113  
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Originally Posted by rensho3 View Post
Re Adamo saddle; I have ridden one for about three years on the track. It did take a while (I mean a couple of months) to fully acclimate to it, but I am sold on it. I was having some serious plumbing problems during and after longer events like points races and scratch races and switched to the Adamo to get some relief. I no longer do mass start races, but it works great for sprint events. I am now having similar problems with my road bike and will probably get an Adamo for it once track season is over and I start riding the road more. Perhaps being older than most of the folks here and enlarged prostate was the deciding factor that gave me the patience to get used to the thing.
Yep, I was getting some serious numbness after long road races. The Adamo certainly helped alleviate that. The wide nose is actually something I appreciated as with narrower saddles I always felt as if it pushed between my sit bones.
I tend to pull myself forward when pressing on and ride on the rivet a lot so wider is better for me.

Since my crash I now ride a PRO Stealth saddle which is sort of a best of both worlds, but has more support than the perched position of the Adamo.
I would reccomend the PRO to anyone who wants a shorter saddle for road racing or scratch events but the Adamo is perfect for time trialling. I donít have enough experience in match sprinting to comment on that.
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Old 08-29-18, 12:32 PM
  #5114  
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Kaben, also consider the type of track you will be riding on. A 200m track is going to sibject you and your equipment to higher G Forces than a 400m track will.

What is the stature of your friend's friend? Is he similar in size to yiu? Did he already race the wheels with no issues? Have they been crashed?
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Old 08-29-18, 12:46 PM
  #5115  
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Originally Posted by taras0000 View Post
Kaben, also consider the type of track you will be riding on. A 200m track is going to sibject you and your equipment to higher G Forces than a 400m track will.

What is the stature of your friend's friend? Is he similar in size to yiu? Did he already race the wheels with no issues? Have they been crashed?
Hi Taras,

The two tracks are v different - lee valley is 250m and very steeply banked, whilst Herne Hill is 450 and comparatively shallow.

The wheels themselves are practically unused- they came with a BMC trackmachine and he already has a comete disc and IO setup. His stature is lighter than mine( prob in the 80 - 85kg range) but as I say the wheels are mostly unridden. Heís a trustworthy seller, I know that much.

The wheels come shod with Conti Tempo tuba which are nearly new.

All in the set will be around £500, which is a great deal but donít want to buy if they wonít be suitable for my weight / use.

thanks for your time


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Old 09-05-18, 10:08 PM
  #5116  
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How tight should a lock ring be?

Should I tighten a lock ring very tight or just a little. And also does rotafix work?
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Old 09-05-18, 10:46 PM
  #5117  
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Originally Posted by Files View Post
Should I tighten a lock ring very tight or just a little. And also does rotafix work?
I'd recommend you always use a proper chain whip to put on/take off cogs. You'll get varying opinions on lock rings. I always use them, and they do not need to be anywhere near as tight as the cog. You have a lot fewer threads to deal with there, and it might be easy to strip them.
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Old 09-06-18, 03:31 AM
  #5118  
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Following on from this question - should chainring bolts be set to a certain torque or just "hand tight"? I couldn't find any manufacturer recommendations for any crankset. I have Stronglite cranks at the moment which came with my Planet X but they didn't come with any documentation either.
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Old 09-06-18, 04:36 AM
  #5119  
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@Files - just tight enough that it doesn't spin itself back off. As for Rota fix... I've seen guys do it on fixies before... since the chain basically has to rest on the bb shell I wouldn't recommend it on a nice bike, and there's some room for error and scratching/damaging things. Depending on how tight the cog is on it can take some serious force to spin it off as well (again opening up the chance for problems) There's really not much excuse not to bring a chain whip/chain pliers to the track though. Last resort imo.
@Kaben - hand tight is what I've used for the past 10+ years on many bikes... some rings do have torque recommended specs, (most of them are in the range of 10Nm) but I've never seen anyone pay attention to them. Certainly trackies who are changing rings on the go generally don't use a torque wrench. I suggest tightening in a star pattern (up downleft, right, left, downright on a 5 bolt) which is just good practice (also should tighten stuff like a stem plate in an x pattern)
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Old 09-06-18, 04:44 AM
  #5120  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
@Files
@Kaben - hand tight is what I've used for the past 10+ years on many bikes... some rings do have torque recommended specs, (most of them are in the range of 10Nm) but I've never seen anyone pay attention to them. Certainly trackies who are changing rings on the go generally don't use a torque wrench. I suggest tightening in a star pattern (up downleft, right, left, downright on a 5 bolt) which is just good practice (also should tighten stuff like a stem plate in an x pattern)
Thanks for the clarification. I did star pattern when tightening but also used blue locktight. Having read up on a few posts about chain ring bolts since then, i may be full of regret regarding the locktight when it comes time to change the ring!
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Old 09-06-18, 05:26 AM
  #5121  
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Biggest chainring on a Koga Kimera

Does anyone who owns a Kimera know what the biggest chainring you can fit on it is? I messaged Koga and they told me to ask my local dealer (none of those in Pakistan, surprisingly) so I called a bunch of LBS' in the UK and none of them stock Kogas. Velodrome Shop straight up said they didn't know. Even messaged a few Dutch riders on IG and got left on read I've put a 60t on it and there's space, but I'm hesitant to buy a bigger expensive chainring to learn that it won't fit.
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Old 09-06-18, 09:44 AM
  #5122  
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I think Bos was using a 62.
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Old 09-06-18, 10:13 AM
  #5123  
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Long before riding a fixie was popular, I built one out of an old KHS so I could train on it. I don't have the bike anymore, so I forget what the BB was, but the I know the spider did not hold onto the bolts very well, so I applied lock tite to make sure they did not fall off. I wrongly thought that I would never have to change the chainrings; I was wrong, and it I still remember putting a pipe on the allen key so I could generate enough torque to break them loose, and in one instance, break the bolt itself. Never did that again!
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Old 09-06-18, 11:01 AM
  #5124  
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What kills me is Speedplay continue to use (red) loctite on the bolts in their pedals. I have a little bin full of bolts to fit speedplays because someone inevitably thinks they are going to DIY some new spindles and strips something.
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Old 09-06-18, 11:16 AM
  #5125  
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Originally Posted by Kaben View Post
Thanks for the clarification. I did star pattern when tightening but also used blue locktight. Having read up on a few posts about chain ring bolts since then, i may be full of regret regarding the locktight when it comes time to change the ring!
If Loctite is ever needed use purple for threads less than 1/4" dia.
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