What have you been wrenching on lately?
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#6602
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Can’t post pictures yet, but I got a 60s Raphael Geminiani from an auction recently. Frame is much too large, so I will probably end up poaching the parts for other period builds and selling the rest.
#6603
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Classic! When I worked in bike shops, people would ever so often bring in a rear hub with freewheel still attached. It was sad having to explain to them what they'd done.
One fix is to make some Z-bend spokes, which don't have heads on them, so they can be inserted into the flange. They can be made by snipping just the top cap off the J-bends, then adding another bend near the existing bend, with narrow-nose pliers. The space between the two bends should be set to match the flange thickness of the hub, but it doesn't need to be precise.
You can make, say 8 spokes in the time it took me to type this.
The exact length of the spokes also doesn't matter. I said 8, which is based on one-fourth of a 32-hole rim, but the exact number doesn't matter either.
Once you have the spokes made, lace a wheel only to the right flange and only pulling spokes, no crosses. Thread the nipples on to full engagement, and proceed to removing the freewheel the normal way. Once your 8 (or however many) spokes are pulled tight by the freewheel removal action, you'll have almost the same removing power as a fully built wheel, no crossing spokes needed.
It is possible to damage a rim by this method so you might want to choose a junk one or at least a heavy/strong one. You can't hurt the spokes though, you aren't strong enough.
Remember to hold the freewheel remover tightly to the freewheel with a QR skewer. Back off the tension on the skewer after the freewheel breaks loose. (Standard advice for almost any FW removal.)
If we charged a customer what this job should cost in normal labor rates, most people would opt to throw the hub and freewheel away. That's always an option; used vintage hubs and freewheels aren't expensive, like on ebay, leboncoin or swap meets for example. Extra karma points for keeping these out of the recycle bin though. Good luck!
One fix is to make some Z-bend spokes, which don't have heads on them, so they can be inserted into the flange. They can be made by snipping just the top cap off the J-bends, then adding another bend near the existing bend, with narrow-nose pliers. The space between the two bends should be set to match the flange thickness of the hub, but it doesn't need to be precise.
You can make, say 8 spokes in the time it took me to type this.
The exact length of the spokes also doesn't matter. I said 8, which is based on one-fourth of a 32-hole rim, but the exact number doesn't matter either.
Once you have the spokes made, lace a wheel only to the right flange and only pulling spokes, no crosses. Thread the nipples on to full engagement, and proceed to removing the freewheel the normal way. Once your 8 (or however many) spokes are pulled tight by the freewheel removal action, you'll have almost the same removing power as a fully built wheel, no crossing spokes needed.
It is possible to damage a rim by this method so you might want to choose a junk one or at least a heavy/strong one. You can't hurt the spokes though, you aren't strong enough.
Remember to hold the freewheel remover tightly to the freewheel with a QR skewer. Back off the tension on the skewer after the freewheel breaks loose. (Standard advice for almost any FW removal.)
If we charged a customer what this job should cost in normal labor rates, most people would opt to throw the hub and freewheel away. That's always an option; used vintage hubs and freewheels aren't expensive, like on ebay, leboncoin or swap meets for example. Extra karma points for keeping these out of the recycle bin though. Good luck!
I laced the hub into a rim, put a junk tire on and gave it a go. Didn't budge. Blasted it with more penetrating oil and left it overnight, but no luck so far. I laced the whole wheel in this manner (with normal, J-bend spokes on the NDS), put some tape inside the rim, tube and tire on and gave it another go. Still nothing. Well, the hub sits in there firmly enough. Now I need a new freewheel removal tool Mine just got stripped. I will get some more penetrating oil in there wihilst I wait for the tool to arrive. At this point what worries me the most is whether the flange will take radial lacing, but fingers crossed.
#6604
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Painting day again in the kitchen, and it's not a disaster - I've got the white in the right places.
Lining next
Lining next
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#6605
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Been tweaking the '85 Trek 830 with adjustments and upgrades since putting it together just a little more than one ago. Over the past few weeks I've swapped out pedals, bottle cage, saddle, stem, and bars. I've added security bolts (seat post binder, and skewers) for a little soundness of mind. And this morning the bar received a new pair DMR DeathGrips, which are absolutely wonderful in the hands.
One more thing I'll say about the grips is that I'm really pleased with their color. I had bone stock and original '85 Trek 510 sports tourer several years ago that was painted in the same Imron medium blue. It's drops were wrapped in yellow Benotto Cello tape. Makes for an exciting contrast in my opinion.
One more thing I'll say about the grips is that I'm really pleased with their color. I had bone stock and original '85 Trek 510 sports tourer several years ago that was painted in the same Imron medium blue. It's drops were wrapped in yellow Benotto Cello tape. Makes for an exciting contrast in my opinion.
#6606
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I haven't been able to ride in over a month, but finally felt up for a little wrenching yesterday. I spent afew hours cleaning up some cranks and hanging a few other bits on a Motobecane Grand Jubilee project. I got a pair of wheels from @obrentharris, a pair of bars/levers from @jeirvine, and a stem off ebay. Otherwise, it's a parts bin build.
Last edited by gaucho777; 07-26-23 at 02:24 PM.
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#6607
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Been tweaking the '85 Trek 830 with adjustments and upgrades since putting it together just a little more than one ago. Over the past few weeks I've swapped out pedals, bottle cage, saddle, stem, and bars. I've added security bolts (seat post binder, and skewers) for a little soundness of mind. And this morning the bar received a new pair DMR DeathGrips, which are absolutely wonderful in the hands.
One more thing I'll say about the grips is that I'm really pleased with their color. I had bone stock and original '85 Trek 510 sports tourer several years ago that was painted in the same Imron medium blue. It's drops were wrapped in yellow Benotto Cello tape. Makes for an exciting contrast in my opinion.
One more thing I'll say about the grips is that I'm really pleased with their color. I had bone stock and original '85 Trek 510 sports tourer several years ago that was painted in the same Imron medium blue. It's drops were wrapped in yellow Benotto Cello tape. Makes for an exciting contrast in my opinion.
How about yellow cable casings to go with those grips? OK. 3 questions.. is that a Suntour stem?
#6608
Junior Member
Thank you!
The pedals are Suntour XC Pro. Funny thing about them is that they're a mismatched pair. One is bronze anodized, and the other is black. Buying them separately allowed me to save quite a bit of money while not having to wait for an affordable matching pair to com come up for sale.
Good eye! That is a Suntour stem. Early XC. Two bolt clamp. I initially built the bike with a black Nitto I had laying around. The Suntour is a little shorter which makes a better fit for me, and the brightness of the silver seems to shed some visual weight up front.
Now that you mention it, yellow cables might be a nice touch. I usually prefer cables to "disappear," but I'll have definitely consider an exception here.
Last edited by Dirt Road Blues; 07-26-23 at 04:32 PM.
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#6609
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I haven't been able to ride in over a month, but finally felt up for a little wrenching yesterday. I spent afew hours cleaning up some cranks and hanging a few other bits on a Motobecane Grand Jubilee project. I got a pair of wheels from @obrentharris, a pair of bars/levers from @jeirvine, and a stem off ebay. Otherwise, it's a parts bin build.
Quick question: is the stem Belleri? Interesting to see it in black. Do you know the weight, by any chance? Velobase gives 310g
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#6610
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Thank you!
The pedals are Suntour XC Pro. Funny thing about them is that they're a mismatched pair. One is bronze anodized, and the other is black. Buying them separately allowed me to save quite a bit of money while not having to wait for an affordable matching pair to com come up for sale.
Good eye! That is a Suntour stem. Early XC. Two bolt clamp. I initially built the bike with a black Nitto I had laying around. The Suntour is a little shorter which makes a better fit for me, and the brightness of the silver seems to shed some visual weight up front.
Now that you mention it, yellow cables might be a nice touch. I usually prefer cables to "disappear," but I'll have definitely consider an exception here.
Thank you!
The pedals are Suntour XC Pro. Funny thing about them is that they're a mismatched pair. One is bronze anodized, and the other is black. Buying them separately allowed me to save quite a bit of money while not having to wait for an affordable matching pair to com come up for sale.
Good eye! That is a Suntour stem. Early XC. Two bolt clamp. I initially built the bike with a black Nitto I had laying around. The Suntour is a little shorter which makes a better fit for me, and the brightness of the silver seems to shed some visual weight up front.
Now that you mention it, yellow cables might be a nice touch. I usually prefer cables to "disappear," but I'll have definitely consider an exception here.
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#6611
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I previously cleaned and polished as many sets of Weinmann Vainqueur as I needed (3), but the surplus just ended in a box. I felt kinda bad about it, so today I dug them out. I had in total 3 calipers there, two of AG 750 variety and one of AG 610. The latter has bent cable straddle holders, so this one ended as a pile of spare small parts in case I need them. I decided not to polish the AG 750 too religiously this time. Not everything at once, if I end up needing it at some point, I can always do some more polishing then, for now it's enough. Still have to make red "labels" for them.
I have also discovered, to my surprise, that in the pile I had Weinmann brake shoes 45mm long, which is longer than the usual 40mm brake shoes I had with other sets. Longer pad means bigger contact surface and theoretically more stopping power, so might get handy at some point. If I end up using the set of AG 605 I have at some point, I think I might use it with these longer brake pads.
Before:
And after:
I have also discovered, to my surprise, that in the pile I had Weinmann brake shoes 45mm long, which is longer than the usual 40mm brake shoes I had with other sets. Longer pad means bigger contact surface and theoretically more stopping power, so might get handy at some point. If I end up using the set of AG 605 I have at some point, I think I might use it with these longer brake pads.
Before:
And after:
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#6612
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Waiting for parts, but this is the first mockup. I do have a lot of help.
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
: Mike
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
: Mike
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Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
#6613
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Looks great! I mean, it's Motobecane, of course it looks great. I love their dual colour schemes (back and silver, black and red). And quite a few great Spidel / Stronglight cranksets there, very nice too. They might not be the lightest, but they look really good, in my opinion.
Quick question: is the stem Belleri? Interesting to see it in black. Do you know the weight, by any chance? Velobase gives 310g
Quick question: is the stem Belleri? Interesting to see it in black. Do you know the weight, by any chance? Velobase gives 310g
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'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
-Randy
'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti
Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
#6614
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I've been dragging my feet on this project for a year or three now. My touring bike was built up with a 'sort of' compact double(by me) about three years ago. I've wanted a triple since after the first few rides on it. Besides that, I never got around to install a rear rack. Well, I did get around to the project finally, just in the last couple of days.
First off, I try to use parts I have on hand before spending money on crap I don't need. I found part of a crankset in the basement, that had a matched Shimano half step/granny(50/45/28) ring set on it. My current setup has a 115mm bottom bracket, which is much too short for three chainrings. I found a crusty looking 127 bb among my stuff also. It looks like hell, but it's a sealed cartridge that spins smooth.
I had a few racks to choose from, but none that would clear the top of the fender. I cut up a beat biopace chainring to make some extensions. It's not a pretty solution, but they should suffice. And nothings ever simple, so I spent a fair amount of time sorting the rear brake and straddle cable to clear the rack stays. Probably would have been easier to build a rack from scratch...
Before
Parts
Unbranded bottom bracket
This'll be my first time using a half step setup..
Almost finished with a couple e cable to cut and cap.
First off, I try to use parts I have on hand before spending money on crap I don't need. I found part of a crankset in the basement, that had a matched Shimano half step/granny(50/45/28) ring set on it. My current setup has a 115mm bottom bracket, which is much too short for three chainrings. I found a crusty looking 127 bb among my stuff also. It looks like hell, but it's a sealed cartridge that spins smooth.
I had a few racks to choose from, but none that would clear the top of the fender. I cut up a beat biopace chainring to make some extensions. It's not a pretty solution, but they should suffice. And nothings ever simple, so I spent a fair amount of time sorting the rear brake and straddle cable to clear the rack stays. Probably would have been easier to build a rack from scratch...
Before
Parts
Unbranded bottom bracket
This'll be my first time using a half step setup..
Almost finished with a couple e cable to cut and cap.
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#6615
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Interestingly, I just noticed the NDS is marked “BELRI” instead of the full Belleri.
#6616
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In my pursuit of lightweight components for the next build I was recently looking at pedals. The idea was to get Sakae Ringyo SP-200BL, partly because they are "fairly" lightweight at 345g, partly because I like the look of them. But then I realised that for the initial build I can as well use what I have and slowly upgrade some components. In terms of pedals, Lyotard 460D. I recently took them off my commuting bike and replaced them with MKS Sylvans (much chunkier at 390g if Velobase is to be believed) and I had 460D collecting dust around. Today I noticed they developed a bit of play, so thought I might as well check the weight (340g, if someone is ever looking for the information) and overhaul them. I think until I manage to get Suntour Superbe (1983 version) pedals, these humble Lyotard ones will do. I need to dig out the vintage reflectors I have. And I could probably try to polish them and give them a bit nicer finish.
Nice and simple construction
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#6617
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Recently switched my ‘73 Stella town bike from single speed to 5 speed. Found this nifty bit at the co-op. My first stem shifter since I unloaded my Varsity in the mid-70’s. It works well and I like the Campy-inspired design.
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#6619
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That's not vintage. That's antique. When the workers were pushing stone blocks to the great pyramid of Giza construction site, they were using that grease on the rollers
Today I had a moment to look into all small bits for Weinmann 605 that came with my C5. Whilst I was getting slightly obsessed with getting Weinmann Carrera brakes (and I will certainly still try to find a good set), I had a look at these and figured out that actually, they are not bad. And are very light, slightly over 300g. Sure, Carrera ones are nicer and sometimes even come in black, but then I can go for polished aluminium with black accents as well. Yes, the build will be also about the look of the bicycle: red frame, which I wanted to be equipped with black stem, black brakes, black chainrings and pedals. But compromises will have to be reached and polished aluminium is easier to keep looking nice than black anodizing (not mentioning I would have to send components for anodizing, which ain't cheap).
Anyhow, today I replaced the cable clamp bolts with a bit fresher looking ones (which also come with aluminium dome nuts) and whilst I look for 42.5mm brake pads, I decided to prepare 40mm ones for now. Didn't go too bad, managed to stab myself with a screwdriver only 3 times and didn't destroy any of the shoe holders in the process. Of course, I could just replace the whole thing with a modern equivalent, but the old Weinmann ones are made of aluminium, which is fairly easy to polish. I'll probably see if I can make the calipers a bit shinier as well.
Today I had a moment to look into all small bits for Weinmann 605 that came with my C5. Whilst I was getting slightly obsessed with getting Weinmann Carrera brakes (and I will certainly still try to find a good set), I had a look at these and figured out that actually, they are not bad. And are very light, slightly over 300g. Sure, Carrera ones are nicer and sometimes even come in black, but then I can go for polished aluminium with black accents as well. Yes, the build will be also about the look of the bicycle: red frame, which I wanted to be equipped with black stem, black brakes, black chainrings and pedals. But compromises will have to be reached and polished aluminium is easier to keep looking nice than black anodizing (not mentioning I would have to send components for anodizing, which ain't cheap).
Anyhow, today I replaced the cable clamp bolts with a bit fresher looking ones (which also come with aluminium dome nuts) and whilst I look for 42.5mm brake pads, I decided to prepare 40mm ones for now. Didn't go too bad, managed to stab myself with a screwdriver only 3 times and didn't destroy any of the shoe holders in the process. Of course, I could just replace the whole thing with a modern equivalent, but the old Weinmann ones are made of aluminium, which is fairly easy to polish. I'll probably see if I can make the calipers a bit shinier as well.
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#6620
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One of the most interesting bikes I have ever bought is mrs non-fixie's De Vos. It is also a bit of an enigma. It came from a shop in remote corner of Belgium and I have not been able to find out who built it. Made from Super Vitus 971 it is a quick bike, and mrs non-fixie rode it for quite a bit.
Vacation in Italy in 2019:
She sort of lost interest when I found the Méral and she developed a preference for drop bars. Since then it has been languishing in a dark corner, much to my disappointment
So today I decided to get it out and swap the 'priest' bars for a set of drop bars with her favorite brake levers, the Shimano DEL-80's. It worked. She was pleasantly surprised by how nicely it rode.
Vacation in Italy in 2019:
She sort of lost interest when I found the Méral and she developed a preference for drop bars. Since then it has been languishing in a dark corner, much to my disappointment
So today I decided to get it out and swap the 'priest' bars for a set of drop bars with her favorite brake levers, the Shimano DEL-80's. It worked. She was pleasantly surprised by how nicely it rode.
Last edited by non-fixie; 07-30-23 at 02:31 PM. Reason: clarification
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#6621
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I lifted this beast into the repair stand by myself.
It got new tires but needed nothing else. Me, though, I need a bit of a lie down.
It got new tires but needed nothing else. Me, though, I need a bit of a lie down.
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#6622
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Got on a roll at the chop shop. 94 Schwinn Passage squawked "I'm not dead yet" as it gave its bits to the cause. It had a cross threaded bottom bracket, so I might need to sort that out before passing the frame on.
And then I dug into the "temporary" limbo pile hidden in the "temporary" shed. A bunch of bikes that defied my usual triage decision process, and while I adverted my eye's, their condition did not improve by it self.
The shiny Trek 6500 with the slightly bent seat stay, and 138mm rear spacing.. I finally accepted I wasn't going to "fix" it and send it down the road. I also discovered that the bottom bracket was reversed on the bike, Fixed cup on the left hand side... I got stuck in a dyslexic panic on that. The threads looked fine? Its off to the scrap yard..
The newer 26" Specialized Expedition didn't magically grow an 8 speed rapid fire shifter, and now the rusty bolt heads are not so ignorable, So a quick clean and off to dry storage,. and hopefuly I'll remember the shifter when I get to a Co-op..
Out came a Specialized Cross roads that is surprisingly rust free, as one side of the once red bike is sunburned to the palest pink, and any trace of anodizing is burned off. The wheels are salvageable and a few of the other bits.. Original thought was to make a non precious city bike for the daughter.
And then there's option #2, a forlorn Mongoose Sycamore frame, which seems light for its worn out Acera components. Continuing the bottom bracket theme, I've never encountered a cartridge BB with the spindle floating loose before. I guess the bearings just went away... There's a couple sets of rather light beach cruiser coaster brake wheel sets in the shed also, so I might just put together a single speed for her. that would suit the realistic maintenance schedule... Of course there would be some sort of compromise involved with having a vertical dropout...
None of these are going back in the shed.. And then there are only the 2 rotten barn find Schwinn's and the parts for 2 1/2 beach cruisers.... Progress
And then I dug into the "temporary" limbo pile hidden in the "temporary" shed. A bunch of bikes that defied my usual triage decision process, and while I adverted my eye's, their condition did not improve by it self.
The shiny Trek 6500 with the slightly bent seat stay, and 138mm rear spacing.. I finally accepted I wasn't going to "fix" it and send it down the road. I also discovered that the bottom bracket was reversed on the bike, Fixed cup on the left hand side... I got stuck in a dyslexic panic on that. The threads looked fine? Its off to the scrap yard..
The newer 26" Specialized Expedition didn't magically grow an 8 speed rapid fire shifter, and now the rusty bolt heads are not so ignorable, So a quick clean and off to dry storage,. and hopefuly I'll remember the shifter when I get to a Co-op..
Out came a Specialized Cross roads that is surprisingly rust free, as one side of the once red bike is sunburned to the palest pink, and any trace of anodizing is burned off. The wheels are salvageable and a few of the other bits.. Original thought was to make a non precious city bike for the daughter.
And then there's option #2, a forlorn Mongoose Sycamore frame, which seems light for its worn out Acera components. Continuing the bottom bracket theme, I've never encountered a cartridge BB with the spindle floating loose before. I guess the bearings just went away... There's a couple sets of rather light beach cruiser coaster brake wheel sets in the shed also, so I might just put together a single speed for her. that would suit the realistic maintenance schedule... Of course there would be some sort of compromise involved with having a vertical dropout...
None of these are going back in the shed.. And then there are only the 2 rotten barn find Schwinn's and the parts for 2 1/2 beach cruisers.... Progress
Last edited by bark_eater; 07-30-23 at 07:39 PM.
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#6623
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Murrieta Ca.
Posts: 537
Bikes: Teledyne Titan, Bob Jackson Audax Club, Bob Jackson World Tour, AlAn Record Ergal, 3Rensho Katana.
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You would think handlebars, levers, and a stem would not be a big deal, I have obsessed over this decision for this build for much longer than I care to admit. The Serotta is a restomod and my personal opinion is the cockpit should reflect the period the bike was built in, so a Brooks Swallow saddle (more or less timeless) perched on a Campagnolo post, Cinelli XA stem clamped to 3ttt Superleggero Giamondi bars with Campagnolo Record levers, so roughly 83-84 with cables flying in the breeze. The restomod part begins below the top tube. So enough yaken lets get on with the photos...
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
: Mike
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
Untitled by nemosengineer, on Flickr
: Mike
__________________
Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
Booyah Hubba-Hubba!!!
Last edited by Nemosengineer; 07-31-23 at 10:38 PM.
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#6624
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,046
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
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Great combo, I just added another set of 3ttt's to my stock, not Giamondi's I think but makes 3 sets I have at present.
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#6625
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,049
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
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Just finishing up a Miyata 914 that I found in the attic at the Bike Exchange as a frame/ fork. Dug up a 105 groupset from our various boxes of parts and a Modolo bar and stem. Just finished routing the cables through the frame and bars and need to go to the shop Wednesday to get a spacer so I can use a 7 speed cassette on the aero spoke wheels I grabbed. Pics when finished.
Pastor Bob just sent me decals he made me for my 1948 Schwinn New World. I pulled the frame down from the ceiling where it has been drying and gave it another coat of Burgandy paint . Another 2 or 3 weeks and I will put on all the decals, then clear coat with 2 part clear. It's going to be a stunner.
Burning Man is just around the corner and I have been getting ready, New front end on my old Pick up, Cleaning out my 1966 Shasta Compact trailer, tuning up my playa bike and my E zip Electric bike. preping a new heavy duty shade structure, making lists of food, clothing etc.
8/3/23 here are some pics of the 914. I did a quick and dirty repaint on the black frame/ fork.Wet sanded with 1500 then masked off the decals and sprayed a few coats of Rustoleum black enamel, pulled the tape , and sprayed everything with clear. didn't make the chips go away but with the black paint it looks great from 3 ft away. I didn't think 28's would fit. They rubbed the brakes before the cables were installed but once the cables were adjustet I had at least 1/8" clearance.
Pastor Bob just sent me decals he made me for my 1948 Schwinn New World. I pulled the frame down from the ceiling where it has been drying and gave it another coat of Burgandy paint . Another 2 or 3 weeks and I will put on all the decals, then clear coat with 2 part clear. It's going to be a stunner.
Burning Man is just around the corner and I have been getting ready, New front end on my old Pick up, Cleaning out my 1966 Shasta Compact trailer, tuning up my playa bike and my E zip Electric bike. preping a new heavy duty shade structure, making lists of food, clothing etc.
8/3/23 here are some pics of the 914. I did a quick and dirty repaint on the black frame/ fork.Wet sanded with 1500 then masked off the decals and sprayed a few coats of Rustoleum black enamel, pulled the tape , and sprayed everything with clear. didn't make the chips go away but with the black paint it looks great from 3 ft away. I didn't think 28's would fit. They rubbed the brakes before the cables were installed but once the cables were adjustet I had at least 1/8" clearance.
Last edited by capnjonny; 08-03-23 at 05:07 PM. Reason: more detail
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