1X drivetrain for all-round gravel / touring bike?
#101
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I don't get along fine with mine, I ended up putting an internally gear front crank on my bike to widen the gear range. My partner is slower up hills so I need lower gears to keep pace with her. When rolling down the other side I needed higher gears so I could pedal to overcome the freewheel drag from the IGH, otherwise she'd roll right on by me. So the bike is even heavier. At some stage I'd like to try the Pinion system, nearly did this year, but they are expensive and I'd need to mod the frame to suit.
It is a hassle to take out the rear wheel due to the gear shift cable being attached to the hub. And when something breaks, there is very little you can do, except take the whole hub apart. A derailleur system is way more user-serviceable and adjustable in my opinion.
Can't beat the price. Actually I think hydraulic brakes make as much sense for touring bikes as racing bikes. Tourists ride long hours, have more weight to stop plus we're usually older so the finger-tip ease of hydro could be much more comfortable on descents. Additional cost for a potential touring groupset to include hydro is low, maybe $100-$200. I would guess that touring bikes with hydraulic brakes will be common 10 years from now; it took a long time for cable disc brakes to become standard on touring bikes.
I am content to stay with cables for shifting and braking. It works, is reliable, easy to fix with a minimum of tools. I can see the advantages of hydraulic for competition, but touring, I am not competing with anyone. I have had dust and mud cause some friction in cable systems, so I admit that there is another advantage to hydraulic systems. One day I had so much mud clogging up my rear V brake, it stopped releasing, so maybe there are rare times that a hydraulic system is more reliable?
If hydraulic systems work great for others, that is great. But, I am sticking with cable.
If hydraulic systems work great for others, that is great. But, I am sticking with cable.
Is this true? I am looking to buy a bike with SHimano Sora groupset, but the only thing I am worried about is the mechanical disc versus hydraulic on Tiagra or 105. I was contemplating going for Sora, but upgrading to hydraulic system later on. Which would be a pain, because the brake levers/ shifters between Sora, 105 and Tiagra are not interchangeable.
My around town bike has just 3 gears, so you really get used to not getting to be "picky" which gear you are turning. Just one gear for climbing, one for flat, and one for descending. That's it. LOL
#102
Senior Member
Maart, mechanical disc systems can be excellent, but of course low end ones can be, well low end. Any well designed ones, e even old ones like my avid bb7s work great, but other newer designs are easier to set up apparently.
To me it's a non issue as I only have to take a few minutes to adjust pads after thousands of touring miles, so not a big deal at all.
but yes, good shimano hydros at reasonable prices are excellent also and self adjust.
so it depends
and I don't want hydro on my tours, in case I have to get my bike put on the roof of a truck or in a trunk and a housing gets damaged.... so for me mechanical is more robust and I've ridden heavily loaded in mountains a lot and they work fine.
To me it's a non issue as I only have to take a few minutes to adjust pads after thousands of touring miles, so not a big deal at all.
but yes, good shimano hydros at reasonable prices are excellent also and self adjust.
so it depends
and I don't want hydro on my tours, in case I have to get my bike put on the roof of a truck or in a trunk and a housing gets damaged.... so for me mechanical is more robust and I've ridden heavily loaded in mountains a lot and they work fine.
Likes For djb:
#103
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,213
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3462 Post(s)
Liked 1,468 Times
in
1,145 Posts
I own an old Norta Town bike with Sturmey Archer IGH. Perhaps these systems have come a long way since this bike was made in the 70s or 80s, but I would not recommend it.
It is a hassle to take out the rear wheel due to the gear shift cable being attached to the hub. And when something breaks, there is very little you can do, except take the whole hub apart. A derailleur system is way more user-serviceable and adjustable in my opinion....
It is a hassle to take out the rear wheel due to the gear shift cable being attached to the hub. And when something breaks, there is very little you can do, except take the whole hub apart. A derailleur system is way more user-serviceable and adjustable in my opinion....
This is the touring forum, not the commuting forum, thus the most prevalent IGH you will find on a (touring) bike is a Rohloff. You occasionally hear of someone that had to send a Rohloff wheel back for repair, but the vast majority of those hubs will never have to be opened, assuming they had their annual oil changes, were not submerged when fording streams, etc.
That said, if disconnecting the shift cable from a Sturmey Archer three speed hub is a significant inconvenience for you, I suspect there will not be any IGH systems out there that you would be happy with.
...
I had a shop mechanic really recommend NOT going for mechanical disc brakes. I don't know if he was just trying to sell me the more expensive groupset, but he seemed genuine. He was not the shop owner, but the mechanic, and he said the mechanical disc brakes are much more prone to needing readjustment and not work as well. The hydraulic systems are more difficult to set up, but once set up correctly just keep working.
Is this true? I am looking to buy a bike with SHimano Sora groupset, but the only thing I am worried about is the mechanical disc versus hydraulic on Tiagra or 105. I was contemplating going for Sora, but upgrading to hydraulic system later on. Which would be a pain, because the brake levers/ shifters between Sora, 105 and Tiagra are not interchangeable.
...
I had a shop mechanic really recommend NOT going for mechanical disc brakes. I don't know if he was just trying to sell me the more expensive groupset, but he seemed genuine. He was not the shop owner, but the mechanic, and he said the mechanical disc brakes are much more prone to needing readjustment and not work as well. The hydraulic systems are more difficult to set up, but once set up correctly just keep working.
Is this true? I am looking to buy a bike with SHimano Sora groupset, but the only thing I am worried about is the mechanical disc versus hydraulic on Tiagra or 105. I was contemplating going for Sora, but upgrading to hydraulic system later on. Which would be a pain, because the brake levers/ shifters between Sora, 105 and Tiagra are not interchangeable.
...
Being on the touring forum, presumably when your bike needs adjustment or repair, you will be far from home and possibly far from a bike shop.
When I build up a touring bike, I use components that are robust, easily repaired, easily replaced, readily available, and reliable. In my opinion, all those boxes are checked with a cable system.
That said, it also depends on where you are touring, if you will always be near a bike shop, then almost anything can be fixed without a problem. But a lot of my touring has been far from a bike shop.
Likes For Tourist in MSN:
#104
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: QC Canada
Posts: 1,972
Bikes: Custom built LHT & Troll
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 846 Post(s)
Liked 149 Times
in
106 Posts
Marathon shoes are not the same as sprint. Cushioned vs stiffness. A marathon is measured in hours, a sprint in seconds.
I'd rather ride a 3x10+ on tour
Likes For gauvins:
#105
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 5,126
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2236 Post(s)
Liked 1,314 Times
in
707 Posts
Lot's of good ideas being expressed in this thread.
Like the mechanical brake tangent, there is more to deciding which system works for the individual than just what's "best" in a singular sense. The terrain one is expecting to ride, serviceability (both in the field and by local shops), cost, what you are used to, weight of load, speed you wish to travel... It all points to why we usually don't come to consensus on one overall system for anything
I was thinking of modern IGH's in my example. On my fatbike, the only failure mode I can think of is snagging the rear derailer in tall grass (which has happened). On my road tourer that would likely never happen. An IGH would resolve that issue but raise the issue of field repair. It would have to match the low end of the gear range though and be affordable. For me at the moment, the Rohloff is still too dear to experiment with in that way and derailer systems are cheap and easy to work with so that is a hurdle I haven't looked to surmount yet.
I know SA still makes a variety of IGH's and I am also curious why we don't hear so much about the Shimano Nexus type IGH's for touring? At work I have two bikes that use the 7 and 8 speed hubs and, combined with a triple up front, would be an interesting set up.
Like the mechanical brake tangent, there is more to deciding which system works for the individual than just what's "best" in a singular sense. The terrain one is expecting to ride, serviceability (both in the field and by local shops), cost, what you are used to, weight of load, speed you wish to travel... It all points to why we usually don't come to consensus on one overall system for anything
I was thinking of modern IGH's in my example. On my fatbike, the only failure mode I can think of is snagging the rear derailer in tall grass (which has happened). On my road tourer that would likely never happen. An IGH would resolve that issue but raise the issue of field repair. It would have to match the low end of the gear range though and be affordable. For me at the moment, the Rohloff is still too dear to experiment with in that way and derailer systems are cheap and easy to work with so that is a hurdle I haven't looked to surmount yet.
I know SA still makes a variety of IGH's and I am also curious why we don't hear so much about the Shimano Nexus type IGH's for touring? At work I have two bikes that use the 7 and 8 speed hubs and, combined with a triple up front, would be an interesting set up.
Last edited by Happy Feet; 02-07-20 at 01:00 PM.
#106
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,213
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3462 Post(s)
Liked 1,468 Times
in
1,145 Posts
Lot's of good ideas being expressed in this thread.
... It all points to why we usually don't come to consensus on one overall system for anything
... and I am also curious why we don't hear so much about the Shimano Nexus type IGH's for touring? At work I have two bikes that use the 7 and 8 speed hubs and, combined with a triple up front, would be an interesting set up.
... It all points to why we usually don't come to consensus on one overall system for anything
... and I am also curious why we don't hear so much about the Shimano Nexus type IGH's for touring? At work I have two bikes that use the 7 and 8 speed hubs and, combined with a triple up front, would be an interesting set up.
IGH and a triple, never heard of anyone doing that. But I am not sure if a Shimano would hold up well for touring. I think they mostly are owned by commuters that do not want a derailleur system, they see the IGH as lower maintenance.
But I mixed an IGH with a cassette and rear derailleur. I use a Sram Dual Drive for wider gearing on my folding bike. The Dual Drive is now out of production, it was a three speed internal hub and was built with a freehub, I use an 11/32 eight speed cassette with it. The Dual Drive is very close to being equivalent to a 53/39/29 triple for gearing. But I think it is not better than a triple, I use it because I can't fit a front derailleur to the bike. I have heard that Sturmey Archer makes a similar IGH but have not seen one.
#107
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 5,126
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2236 Post(s)
Liked 1,314 Times
in
707 Posts
But I mixed an IGH with a cassette and rear derailleur. I use a Sram Dual Drive for wider gearing on my folding bike. The Dual Drive is now out of production, it was a three speed internal hub and was built with a freehub, I use an 11/32 eight speed cassette with it. The Dual Drive is very close to being equivalent to a 53/39/29 triple for gearing. But I think it is not better than a triple, I use it because I can't fit a front derailleur to the bike. I have heard that Sturmey Archer makes a similar IGH but have not seen one.
Is it gone for good? Er.. just read up on it. Too bad
Last edited by Happy Feet; 02-07-20 at 05:19 PM.
#108
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,213
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3462 Post(s)
Liked 1,468 Times
in
1,145 Posts
I use a Sturmey Archer bar end shifter on it, the cable pull for the indexing appears to be nearly perfect.
#109
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have no idea if you are mechanically inclined, some people are and some are not. If you can't fix a cable system and you plan to rely on others to fix your bike at a bike shop, it does not really matter what you use.
Being on the touring forum, presumably when your bike needs adjustment or repair, you will be far from home and possibly far from a bike shop.
When I build up a touring bike, I use components that are robust, easily repaired, easily replaced, readily available, and reliable. In my opinion, all those boxes are checked with a cable system.
That said, it also depends on where you are touring, if you will always be near a bike shop, then almost anything can be fixed without a problem. But a lot of my touring has been far from a bike shop.
Being on the touring forum, presumably when your bike needs adjustment or repair, you will be far from home and possibly far from a bike shop.
When I build up a touring bike, I use components that are robust, easily repaired, easily replaced, readily available, and reliable. In my opinion, all those boxes are checked with a cable system.
That said, it also depends on where you are touring, if you will always be near a bike shop, then almost anything can be fixed without a problem. But a lot of my touring has been far from a bike shop.
Good info. I totally see your point, I would prefer something I can fix on the side of the road, versus having to stop and look for a bike shop. Cabled system seems more road-side fixable than hydraulic. Even touring in Europe, you don't want to go looking for a bike shop in the middle of Spain or Portugal somewhere where you don't speak the language perfectly either.
Maart, mechanical disc systems can be excellent, but of course low end ones can be, well low end. Any well designed ones, e even old ones like my avid bb7s work great, but other newer designs are easier to set up apparently.
To me it's a non issue as I only have to take a few minutes to adjust pads after thousands of touring miles, so not a big deal at all.
but yes, good shimano hydros at reasonable prices are excellent also and self adjust.
so it depends
and I don't want hydro on my tours, in case I have to get my bike put on the roof of a truck or in a trunk and a housing gets damaged.... so for me mechanical is more robust and I've ridden heavily loaded in mountains a lot and they work fine.
To me it's a non issue as I only have to take a few minutes to adjust pads after thousands of touring miles, so not a big deal at all.
but yes, good shimano hydros at reasonable prices are excellent also and self adjust.
so it depends
and I don't want hydro on my tours, in case I have to get my bike put on the roof of a truck or in a trunk and a housing gets damaged.... so for me mechanical is more robust and I've ridden heavily loaded in mountains a lot and they work fine.
Yes and no. I'd argue that the same principles apply. More so, perhaps, with touring where a typical day involves 6h+ of pedalling. Your 3-speed city bike example is quite good : why not tour on a 3-speed bike? Probably because most of the time you'd prefer a different gear-inch. Doesn't matter that much when the average ride length is measured in minutes (city bike) but probably not the same when average ride is measured in hours. Someone in the thread mentioned that 1x became popular with cyclo-cross. A typical event lasts less than 1 hour.
#110
Senior Member
Yes damage could lead to fluid loss, no brakes. Likelihood of this happening? Small, but certainly not able to deal with. Same with a seal issue.
#111
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,213
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3462 Post(s)
Liked 1,468 Times
in
1,145 Posts
...
Thanks for the feedback! So you mean if the housing gets damaged, the liquid inside would leak out, rendering the brakes useless? That seems like a major downside, even though unlikely to happen in most scenarios. In that case, mechanical seems more durable indeed. I mean, you could snap a cable I suppose, but for long tours in the wilderness you could carry a spare brake cable somewhere.
....
Thanks for the feedback! So you mean if the housing gets damaged, the liquid inside would leak out, rendering the brakes useless? That seems like a major downside, even though unlikely to happen in most scenarios. In that case, mechanical seems more durable indeed. I mean, you could snap a cable I suppose, but for long tours in the wilderness you could carry a spare brake cable somewhere.
....
I saw a couple bike shops on my tour last summer. But I never saw a bike shop on my Iceland tour, and i was looking for one to buy a souvenir bike jersey, I know at least one or two existed but I never found one.
When I changed this shifter cable, I had three unbroken strands of wire remaining.
Likes For Tourist in MSN:
#112
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,150
Bikes: 2013 Surly Disc Trucker, 2004 Novara Randonee , old fixie , etc
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 671 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times
in
43 Posts
I had a shop mechanic really recommend NOT going for mechanical disc brakes. I don't know if he was just trying to sell me the more expensive groupset, but he seemed genuine. He was not the shop owner, but the mechanic, and he said the mechanical disc brakes are much more prone to needing readjustment and not work as well. The hydraulic systems are more difficult to set up, but once set up correctly just keep working.
Is this true? I am looking to buy a bike with SHimano Sora groupset, but the only thing I am worried about is the mechanical disc versus hydraulic on Tiagra or 105. I was contemplating going for Sora, but upgrading to hydraulic system later on. Which would be a pain, because the brake levers/ shifters between Sora, 105 and Tiagra are not interchangeable.
Is this true? I am looking to buy a bike with SHimano Sora groupset, but the only thing I am worried about is the mechanical disc versus hydraulic on Tiagra or 105. I was contemplating going for Sora, but upgrading to hydraulic system later on. Which would be a pain, because the brake levers/ shifters between Sora, 105 and Tiagra are not interchangeable.
Hydraulic brakes don't require adjustment for cable stretch or pad wear. But for touring or general riding it's simple & quick to do the occasional adjustment for cable stretch/pad wear.
Gear range is more important than brake type. For loaded hilly touring the wide-range 3x9 Sora might be best but if one is OK with a bit less gear range then 2x Tiagra/105 with hydro brakes could be nice. For touring I think the main advantage of hydraulic brakes is the ease of braking.
#113
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 782
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 226 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times
in
32 Posts
Thanks for the feedback! So you mean if the housing gets damaged, the liquid inside would leak out, rendering the brakes useless? That seems like a major downside, even though unlikely to happen in most scenarios. In that case, mechanical seems more durable indeed. I mean, you could snap a cable I suppose, but for long tours in the wilderness you could carry a spare brake cable somewhere.
My city riding is 2500 miles a year.
My touring is 400-1500 miles per year for the last 4 years with hydraulic brakes.
I don't think my hydraulic brakes knows when I'm on tour or not.
It seems like something I shouldn't worry about.
I can probably live with one set of brakes if the other is broken. At least, until I figure it out.
#114
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Down Under
Posts: 1,936
Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Liked 1,154 Times
in
640 Posts
Couple of things:
Brake sensitivity isn't as bigger deal on a loaded touring bike, compared to say a MTB or road bike, as long as they aren't stupidly insensitive. But if you don't plan on dismantling your bike for travel the hydraulic will be OK, travelling; cable is better because of it's physical strength, you can hang the bars off it while packing your bike. With cable operated brakes just getting some decent pads, compressionless cable and not using el cheapo calipers is probably good enough. If you need more braking or sensitivity the cheap fix is to go as big as your forks will allow with your front disc. You can buy TRP Spyke or Spyre calipers off Aliexpress for next to nothing, but the stock pads will be junk compared to aftermarket. Spending the big bucks on the cables will bring the biggest results however.
Shimano IGH with a front derailleur or IGC; the biggest problem is the torque rating, you can't go too small on the front chain ring to get down to touring gear inches in the low 20s or high teens else you will exceed the 1.9:1 rating of the hub. The Rohloff can get down to 13 gear inches and still be OK with a 26" wheel. Pity, I'd fit one to my partners bike with a ATS speed drive otherwise, to save some bucks on a Rohloff.
Brake sensitivity isn't as bigger deal on a loaded touring bike, compared to say a MTB or road bike, as long as they aren't stupidly insensitive. But if you don't plan on dismantling your bike for travel the hydraulic will be OK, travelling; cable is better because of it's physical strength, you can hang the bars off it while packing your bike. With cable operated brakes just getting some decent pads, compressionless cable and not using el cheapo calipers is probably good enough. If you need more braking or sensitivity the cheap fix is to go as big as your forks will allow with your front disc. You can buy TRP Spyke or Spyre calipers off Aliexpress for next to nothing, but the stock pads will be junk compared to aftermarket. Spending the big bucks on the cables will bring the biggest results however.
Shimano IGH with a front derailleur or IGC; the biggest problem is the torque rating, you can't go too small on the front chain ring to get down to touring gear inches in the low 20s or high teens else you will exceed the 1.9:1 rating of the hub. The Rohloff can get down to 13 gear inches and still be OK with a 26" wheel. Pity, I'd fit one to my partners bike with a ATS speed drive otherwise, to save some bucks on a Rohloff.
#115
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Couple of things:
Brake sensitivity isn't as bigger deal on a loaded touring bike, compared to say a MTB or road bike, as long as they aren't stupidly insensitive. But if you don't plan on dismantling your bike for travel the hydraulic will be OK, travelling; cable is better because of it's physical strength, you can hang the bars off it while packing your bike.
Brake sensitivity isn't as bigger deal on a loaded touring bike, compared to say a MTB or road bike, as long as they aren't stupidly insensitive. But if you don't plan on dismantling your bike for travel the hydraulic will be OK, travelling; cable is better because of it's physical strength, you can hang the bars off it while packing your bike.
#116
Senior Member
Tree's point about traveling is an important one, and certainly a huge one in my experience. Despite my travels in other countries and wanting the robustness of mechanical for that, I know for a fact that my bike has had much rougher treatment in the box traveling, and me getting the dropbars fitting into amongst the frame and all that, cables pulled and pushed, and who knows what other forces in transit with baggage handlers and conveyor belts....
would never want a hydro setup just for this reason!
would never want a hydro setup just for this reason!
#117
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Down Under
Posts: 1,936
Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Liked 1,154 Times
in
640 Posts
Hmm, I did not even consider the actual travel process, packing the bike and flying with it. Seems like hydraulic would be more of a hassle / risk for that as well. I have never owned hydraulic, so not sure how "fragile" it is, but for my bike box I fly with, I do need to take my handlebars off, twist them around significantly, and tape them sideways to the frame. With cables, there is no issue at all. Would this be a problem with hydraulic lines? I have read some people suggest taking off the calipers to not put strain on the lines, but the bike I am getting has internal cable routing, so that is not an easy thing to do either.
#118
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,150
Bikes: 2013 Surly Disc Trucker, 2004 Novara Randonee , old fixie , etc
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 671 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times
in
43 Posts
Tree's point about traveling is an important one, and certainly a huge one in my experience. Despite my travels in other countries and wanting the robustness of mechanical for that, I know for a fact that my bike has had much rougher treatment in the box traveling, and me getting the dropbars fitting into amongst the frame and all that, cables pulled and pushed, and who knows what other forces in transit with baggage handlers and conveyor belts....
would never want a hydro setup just for this reason!
would never want a hydro setup just for this reason!
#119
Senior Member
ya I'm sure that with proper packing all is fine. I just know that the last two times on my return flights, packing my bike was a rather rushed affair and i do like that i don't have to worry about it. Combine this with the more simple maintenance repair and perfectly good braking, for me I'm still glad i have mechanical.
#120
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 5,126
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2236 Post(s)
Liked 1,314 Times
in
707 Posts
ya I'm sure that with proper packing all is fine. I just know that the last two times on my return flights, packing my bike was a rather rushed affair and i do like that i don't have to worry about it. Combine this with the more simple maintenance repair and perfectly good braking, for me I'm still glad i have mechanical.
I've had the opportunity to use hydro brakes on FS mtbs and there is a time and place when they are more helpful. Sometimes, descending a steep track I would think.. wish I could stop better. Or, on a long sustained section.. wish my hand wasn't cramping so much (especially in the winter when it numbs out the fingers).
But touring I don't have those thoughts with mechanical disc or even well set up canti's. At times I think other things like.. wish I had a lower gear or wish I were more aero but not that I could stop better. Mechanical seems to meet the thresh hold of acceptable performance that way.
#121
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,150
Bikes: 2013 Surly Disc Trucker, 2004 Novara Randonee , old fixie , etc
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 671 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times
in
43 Posts
I tend to agree with this.
I've had the opportunity to use hydro brakes on FS mtbs and there is a time and place when they are more helpful. Sometimes, descending a steep track I would think.. wish I could stop better. Or, on a long sustained section.. wish my hand wasn't cramping so much (especially in the winter when it numbs out the fingers).
But touring I don't have those thoughts with mechanical disc or even well set up canti's. At times I think other things like.. wish I had a lower gear or wish I were more aero but not that I could stop better. Mechanical seems to meet the thresh hold of acceptable performance that way.
I've had the opportunity to use hydro brakes on FS mtbs and there is a time and place when they are more helpful. Sometimes, descending a steep track I would think.. wish I could stop better. Or, on a long sustained section.. wish my hand wasn't cramping so much (especially in the winter when it numbs out the fingers).
But touring I don't have those thoughts with mechanical disc or even well set up canti's. At times I think other things like.. wish I had a lower gear or wish I were more aero but not that I could stop better. Mechanical seems to meet the thresh hold of acceptable performance that way.
#122
Full Member
Apologies I didn't read this entire thread.
I see there is a company offering a derailleur cage extender and an 11 speed 11-50 cassette. Might be interesting for people considering touring on 1x. I had thought that the largest cog available was 42.
I see there is a company offering a derailleur cage extender and an 11 speed 11-50 cassette. Might be interesting for people considering touring on 1x. I had thought that the largest cog available was 42.
Last edited by Wiggle; 05-06-20 at 07:19 PM.
#123
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 105
Bikes: 2014 Avanti Circa (Rd Dist), 2020 Giant Toughroad (Rd Tour), 2021 Trek Allant+ 8S (eCommute), 2021 Scott Aspect 940 (Mt HT), 2014 Santa Cruz Superlight 29er (Mt FS), 2022 Scott Spark 960 (Mt FS)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Liked 52 Times
in
26 Posts
What about considering an Apex1 with an eThirteen 9-46t cassette
You'd have to run an XD driver, but you could get 17.56 to 89.94 gear inches on a 700x32 tire with a 30t chainring ...
You'd have to run an XD driver, but you could get 17.56 to 89.94 gear inches on a 700x32 tire with a 30t chainring ...
#124
Senior Member
credit card please!
real life costs please, new
cassette replacement cost please
real life chain life expectancy please
you get the idea