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Please help picking 1st road bike

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Old 06-30-23, 02:27 PM
  #26  
Smaug1
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Originally Posted by big john
What size are the tires? Larger tires on modern bikes can run lower pressures than older bikes with narrow tires. This might help your comfort even more.
They're 700x32. IIRC, they're marked to inflate to 60-80 psi. The salesman recommended 70; he said 80 feels like rocks.

Also, you shouldn't be putting a lot of weight on your hands. It might take some time but you should be able to ride with a light touch on the bar, supporting yourself with your core muscles. Don't lock your elbows, practice riding with your elbows bent.

Above all, have fun!
Thanks for the great tip; I'll work on that.

I just joined my local club; was going to join the group ride tomorrow, but I just found out it's 60 miles. I haven't done anything close to that in years, so I'm going to back out on that and ease into it a bit more. I made plans for a ~40 mile gravel ride with a friend Sunday, so if I DID do the ride tomorrow, I'd be worn out for the Sunday ride and that'd be kind of a crappy thing to do to him.
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Old 06-30-23, 02:35 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Smaug1
They're 700x32. IIRC, they're marked to inflate to 60-80 psi. The salesman recommended 70; he said 80 feels like rocks..
Seems like 70 is a good starting point. If they feel squishy or vague you could always go up. Should be a nice ride.

I still use 25s on the road bike. I tried a 28 but it was too tight. I also run 100 psi with a very stiff frame so get hammered a bit on bad roads. Also, I'm 200 pounds.
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Old 06-30-23, 02:35 PM
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Rear drivetrain close-up:
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Old 06-30-23, 02:44 PM
  #29  
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I was referring more to the whole side of the bike (the opposite side from your previous pic). That said, some folks enjoy close-ups. Also, the "drivetrain" includes the crankset, too.

I like the color scheme of your bike. I'm glad to see people picking colorful machines instead of the all-black "stealth" look that has been popular.
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Old 06-30-23, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by big john
What size are the tires? Larger tires on modern bikes can run lower pressures than older bikes with narrow tires. This might help your comfort even more.

Also, you shouldn't be putting a lot of weight on your hands. It might take some time but you should be able to ride with a light touch on the bar, supporting yourself with your core muscles. Don't lock your elbows, practice riding with your elbows bent.

Above all, have fun!
^^^^^ This. If your bike is set up properly there shouldn't be that much weight on your hands.
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Old 06-30-23, 03:37 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by big john
This is why people on the forum think you are a troll. You clearly have no experience in this realm.
Just a note of warning: as of today, the moderators have apparently had enough of overt insults of other posters, regardless of how justified the poster feels in writing the insulting post. Conversations are likely to be much more civilized around here, for the next several weeks or so at least.

Last edited by Trakhak; 06-30-23 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 06-30-23, 03:39 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Smaug1
Lots of good advice in this thread, thanks so much everyone!

Re. charging the bike, I agree it is not the best financial decision, but I did it anyway. I'll pay for half from savings. I have a camera system I'm not using any more that can probably raise the other half. I might also sell my wife's acoustic bike, as she only rode it twice in a year and 0 times since I got her the eBike. FWIW, I have just that bit of CC debt, mortgage and a car payment. $40k saved so far for my daughter's college. (she wants to be a vet, so it's going to be $PENDY)

I went back to the shop and bought the Trek Domane AL3 Disc.

The test ride at the LBS was convincing. Service there was excellent, so I was happy to pay new retail to support that shop, (Zion Cyclery, in Zion, IL) even though I paid 2% more tax than I would have just over the border where I live in WI. The salesman educated the heck out of me on everything: shoes, pedals, groupsets, frame materials brakes... I was planning on holding off if they only had the black one, but they had it in my favorite color, blue. It was a sign from above. I left them a glowing review on Google.

The 8 mile shakedown ride last night was great. It doesn't beat me up as much as I thought it would on our crappy roads here in town. My hand muscles are going to have to get in shape; I'm not used to having so much weight on them. Maybe thick grip tape will be my first mod. I already have nice padded fingerless gloves. I need to pick up a couple bottle cages from the LBS after work.

I'll go slow on the additions, but I did add interchangeable battery front & rear lights. (I don't like the built-in obsolescence of USB-charged lights) I might add a couple small bags and a GPS or phone mount at some point. It has holes in the crosstube for a bag there.

I'm probably going to buy another bike tomorrow, an old Schwinn Varsity. Don't worry, I'll pay cash for that one. Nostalgia bike, maybe a winter project, depending on what all it needs. (brake pads and seat at a minimum, I think...)

Tomorrow, there's a group ride that looks to be about 40 miles, then Sunday a gravel ride (probably on the hybrid bike) for that much again.

Again, thanks all. The advice I DIDN'T take wound up being just as useful as the advice that I did, as it helped me to see this from all angles.
Thanks for that follow-up post. That was very satisfying to read. Beautiful bike, too!
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Old 06-30-23, 03:58 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Trakhak
Just a note of warning: as of today, the moderators have apparently had enough of overt insults of other posters, regardless of how justified the poster feels in writing the insulting post. Conversations are likely to be much more civilized around here, for the next several weeks or so at least.
Yes, I saw the thing that happened. Thanks for the warning, though.
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Old 06-30-23, 07:56 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by grantelmwood
Good for you. Feel free to disagree and dispense reckless financial advice.
However, I am equally entitled to give actual sensible financial advice, as well.
Buying toys with credit cards is the definition of low financial IQ.
This is not controversial.
Too late, he already got the bike. And for those of us who actually ride for decades, a bicycle is not a toy. It is our passion, the thing that keeps us sane.

Buying things on credit is not "reckless" if one is in control of their finances and their impulses. It is not up to you or me to decide how people spend their money.
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Old 06-30-23, 08:31 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by grantelmwood
$500k Ferraris and $10k bottles of wine are my passion. Should I buy them on credit?

Buying things on credit is the definition of poor impulse control.
If you have the means and can get the loan, do it. I think most people who buy cars that expensive pay cash. If you enjoy a $10K bottle of wine you must have had it in the past. Did you pay cash?

Maybe you have put yourself deep in debt in the past and had trouble digging yourself out. Whenever I have financed something I have just made the payments until the loan was paid. Bank loans, private loans, whatever. Just pay them off. Many of us can do that. It's the American way.
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Old 06-30-23, 10:31 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Eric F
I like the color scheme of your bike. I'm glad to see people picking colorful machines instead of the all-black "stealth" look that has been popular.
Trek is doing a good job there. I got an email from them today previewing some of their upcoming paint jobs; pretty fantastic, I think:
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/p...%20TdF_6957069


Originally Posted by genejockey
If your bike is set up properly there shouldn't be that much weight on your hands.
The stem is up as high as it will go. Lowering it would only make it worse.
The seat is the right height to get proper leg extension without swivel-hipping or hyper-extending.
The frame is the right size. Any shorter and my knees would be right at my wrists when on the drops.
The seat is flat, and feels good. I'm not getting racked by the nose piece nor sliding forward. I could tilt it back a bit and see if that'll take some weight off the hands?
I could slide it forward or back a bit in the clamps.

Any specific recommendations?
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Old 06-30-23, 11:07 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by grantelmwood
Buying things on credit is the definition of poor impulse control.
No, it's not. But, please continue telling other people how they should manage their money -- it never gets old.
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Old 07-01-23, 12:48 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Smaug1
Trek is doing a good job there. I got an email from them today previewing some of their upcoming paint jobs; pretty fantastic, I think:
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/p...%20TdF_6957069



The stem is up as high as it will go. Lowering it would only make it worse.
The seat is the right height to get proper leg extension without swivel-hipping or hyper-extending.
The frame is the right size. Any shorter and my knees would be right at my wrists when on the drops.
The seat is flat, and feels good. I'm not getting racked by the nose piece nor sliding forward. I could tilt it back a bit and see if that'll take some weight off the hands?
I could slide it forward or back a bit in the clamps.

Any specific recommendations?
Yeah. The first is not to assume that the reason you feel like there's too much weight on your hand is because the bar's too LOW. It might actually be too high. It happened to my with my Canyon. I built it up with all the spacers under the stem, and my first 10 mile ride was TERRIBLE! My hands kept going numb! Turns out the bar was an inch higher than all my other bikes, and when I set it to the same height, the numbness went away, and it's not a problem no matter how far I ride.
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Old 07-01-23, 05:19 AM
  #39  
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The issue is where the weight is supported ..... over time riders learn to hold themselves up mostly wit their legs, and not "sit" on the saddle heavily, with the core supporting the upper body. This takes training. And particularly when your legs and core get tired, you will tend to lean forward.

It is just a matter of developing the muscles and the habit of using them in a certain way. It is completely normal for one to lean on one's hand and sit hard on the saddle when starting out (or re-starting--I am about to try riding again after several months lost to illness, and I know from experience how it will feel ... ugh.) Just keep riding and keep in mind that your legs should be doing most of the work.

On a more serious note .... if you want to fit in around here, you Really need to change.

First off, the preferred format is "I just bought this bike. Is it the right one?" Asking for advice first is frowned upon.

Second, if you do make the gaffe of asking for advice, you need to reject all the advice and argue vehemently with whoever gave you the advice .... relying heavily on no facts or wrong facts.

The, you should make a fake account and support your won wrong arguments.

This rational investigation where one gathers advice, assesses it, and makes a wise decision ... it is just not done around here.

Really nice bike, though.
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Old 07-01-23, 07:14 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Smaug1
Trek is doing a good job there. I got an email from them today previewing some of their upcoming paint jobs; pretty fantastic, I think:
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/p...%20TdF_6957069



The stem is up as high as it will go. Lowering it would only make it worse.
The seat is the right height to get proper leg extension without swivel-hipping or hyper-extending.
The frame is the right size. Any shorter and my knees would be right at my wrists when on the drops.
The seat is flat, and feels good. I'm not getting racked by the nose piece nor sliding forward. I could tilt it back a bit and see if that'll take some weight off the hands?
I could slide it forward or back a bit in the clamps.

Any specific recommendations?
If you feel comfortable when you start riding then just get some miles in. It might take a while until you decide what changes, if any, you need to make.
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Old 07-01-23, 07:49 AM
  #41  
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Ok guys, enough of the financial bickering.

smaug1, really nice bike. The blue color looks great.
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Old 07-01-23, 07:58 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Smaug1
They're 700x32. IIRC, they're marked to inflate to 60-80 psi. The salesman recommended 70; he said 80 feels like rocks.
I recently got back into riding on a Domane AL4. My tires have a max PSI of 70 and I usually run my front around 55 and my rear at around 60.
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Old 07-01-23, 02:19 PM
  #43  
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Welcome back! First post is a helpful one. I'll consider that if I feel like the ride is too harsh.

Will I be able to keep up with the others who are running 100 psi in the 25-size tires?
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Old 07-01-23, 06:41 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Smaug1
Welcome back! First post is a helpful one. I'll consider that if I feel like the ride is too harsh.

Will I be able to keep up with the others who are running 100 psi in the 25-size tires?
The more recent thinking is that a bigger tire with lower pressure can be faster on rough pavement. Pretty sure there is no penalty going from 25 to 28. Bigger than that you might need a few more watts, but if your roads are bad the bigger tire can be an advantage.

And I'm sure you know the engine makes the biggest difference.
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Old 07-01-23, 07:43 PM
  #45  
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My first road bike was a Jamis ventura comp. A touch over 800 bucks.. Now about 1300. It does have disc brakes which the first one did not. You can also get a Specialized Allez for 1200 bucks. I bought a new bike because I knew nothing about bicycles and did not want to take a chance on getting someone else's problems. Peace of mind was priceless.

My 2nd road bike is a Specialized Roubaix Elite for 2800 bucks. sold my Jamis for 700, so not too bad of a jump in my opinion. Went to a bike shop and they took all afternoon to get me fitted and answered all my questions. They have been there since 2014 and well worth the extra money I may have spent to get started.
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Old 07-01-23, 07:50 PM
  #46  
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Congrats, you will like that bike. I've had a couple of Domane's and currently have one that is in a regular rotation along with my 2016 Trek Emonda ALR.
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Old 07-02-23, 08:48 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Smaug1
I'm already going to blow my budget to get a 23 lb. bike. Doing down another 3-6 lbs. will add $1,000 to the cost. Besides, I'm 30 lbs. overweight. Why would I count 6 lbs. on the bike until I've dropped that 30? ;-)
In your case, 6lbs won't make much difference.

I would find a reputable bike shop and work with them.
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Old 07-31-23, 08:31 AM
  #48  
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If interested, check my update from today in the original thread.

Thanks for all the tips, guys & gals!
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Old 07-31-23, 12:30 PM
  #49  
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Given your budget I'd suggest Canyon or Rose who sell direct to customer at cheaper prices. Or, you could try The Pro's Closet. I have bought 2 bikes there and been very pleased.
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Old 08-04-23, 07:39 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Eric F
This ^^^ is false. CF is well-proven, over multiple decades, to be a good choice for bike frames and parts.

EDIT:

This ^^^ is true. However, finding a good value takes some knowledge about what you're looking for and looking at.
CF is brittle, and a lot of people sell their CF bikes after a crash because they don't know if the frame was damaged or not, and unless you have the frame x-rayed there is no real reliable way to tell unless it actually cracked, the problem is most damage that happens occurs on the inside of the tube not the outside. It's a lot like an iceberg, what you see on the surface could look like a scratch but underneath the surface it could be fractured or delaminating. I would never buy a used CF bike, but that's not to say you can't get a good one, just saying the risk isn't worth it.

The next thing I'll hear is how you bought 1,000s of used CF bikes and never had an issue, and that may be true, but like I said there is a risk. I don't know about you, but when I am riding at 20 or coming down a steep grade, I'm not sure if I would want to find out that the bike was compromised before I bought it and it took a while for it rear its ugly head as I land on mine!
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