gsulit@shaw.ca

I recenly got a Nishiki Competition for $150 Canadian dollars and have been working on it, repacking bearings on wheels, bottom bracket and headset, changing tires and tubes and brake cables and housing. The serial number is CA07776. It has friction downtube shifters with 6 speed Suntour Cyclone II derailleurs and Dia Compe brakes and Sugino crank. I have a few questions on it. What year is it manufactured? The bottom bracket ( shell is 68mm ) but the non drive side is not reverse threaded? How do you remove the cable on the rear derailleur? I have loosened the allen bolt and the cable does not get loose. I installed a Continental Touring Plus 32C tires on them but the handling/steering is not very good ( it is sluggish when turning left or right but the headset is set ok ). Would skinnier tires handle better? The gear cable is as thick as the brake cable ( unusual? ). There are lots of clearance for bigger tires ( maybe up to 40 even ) and there are eyelets on the front and back. Is this a touring bike or a race bike? Did I do OK with the price I paid for it? As it is now, it weighs 25.8 lbs. Thanks in advance.

randyjawa 

In my mind the bicycle is neither touring nor racing. Rather it is a combination that, in my mind, would focus on the recreational rider, not someone serious about racing or touring. That said, the bike could be raced and/or toured.

I have had a NIshiki Competition, or two, come my way over the years. The one shown here is the better model, featuring the forged drops and decent tubing. In short, a nice bicycle and a worthy street machine.

sd5782 

Nice looking bike. I am no tire expert, but those tires have lots of tread which could affect your handling. Also, as they are listed as touring tires, they may have extra flat protection meaning thicker and heavier. Trade offs I guess.

rgvg

1981 according to the internet.
It's Japan made so the bottom bracket is probably left hand threaded on the drive side and right hand threaded on the non drive side.
Maybe they used brake cables instead of shifter cables? Do the metal bits look like tiny threads (shifter) or more like a flat piece in a spiral (brake)?
I think yes, that's how the cable is removed but I only did it once so I'm no expert.
That price in Vancouver is great. Your neck of the woods, I don't know.

Narhay

The allen bolt next to the M-II is what loosens the cable. Sometimes they cables are bent in place and need a tug, or cut the cable and pull it out the other way if it isnt going one way.

Mr. 66

I'm very happy with my Nishiki comp. I went through my '77 and equipped with a Brooks saddle, Dura Ace brakes converted to nut mounting. I also did a leather wrap on the bars.





I've swapped out the araya hookless rim to Mavic Module E, or 3 I don't remember which, on Miche Comp hubs. I haven't had the chance to try the new high pressure setup.

T-Mar

The subject bicycle is 1982 Canadian market model, designed by Norco and manufactured in Japan by Kawamura during late 1981. The 1982 version employed Shimano 600EX. It looks like the OEM crankset has been swapped for something with a smaller BCD.

The bicycle is basically a lower mid-range sport bicycle, suitable for club racing. It shared the same frame as used on their top Superbe model. Even the Superbe had the dropout eyelets front and back. The comparable level touring bicycle at the time was the Continental. It used longer chain stays, more fork rake, came with a triple crankset, wider range freewheel and the GT version of the Cyclone MK II However, it fell short of being a true grand touring bicycle by utilizing side-pull brakes, instead of cantilevers.

If they used brake cables for the rear derailleur that could also explain the problems in releasing the cable. If you shift the chain onto the largest cog, then push the lever forward without turning the cranks, that will release the tension on the cable, allowing you to pull the housing out from the back of the derailleur enough to be able to cut the inner cable. It will be easier to pull the short end out from the front of the derailleur.

I'd rather find that someone had used brake cables on derailleurs than derailleur cables on brakes.

This bicycle should not be sluggish handling. The first thing I'd try would be narrower and lighter tyres.

bikemig 

This bike is a classic sports tourer. In fact you can add your bike to the thread below if you like.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...g-bicycle.html

The thicker derailleur cables may be just that. Back in the day, better bikes had nice braided cables that were thicker than the derailleur cables you can buy today.

$150 Canadian (around $113 US) is a good price on this bike.