juvela

[QUOTE=velomateo;22804726]-----

probably contract produced for Campania by someone such as Tange...or Hatta...or...

Fuji cycles tended to employ Tange headsets so that would be me guess.


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thumpism 

Can't help going by the old place 'cause stuff keeps showing up. Centurion mixte with bent bars and rear wheel.


Classic accessory for any fendered bike.


I got a shorty adjustable threadless stem and a quill adapter that fits it.

unworthy1

[QUOTE=velomateo;22804726]tagging on to the ref above from juvela, here's a thread with a LOT of detail pertaining to Campania and McIver, the importer in Van Nuys.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...freebie-2.html

One interesting sidebar which I had missed when the thread was fresh: TMar mentioned the serial number format matched what some of the JP-made Bianchis used. Since Campania has some very clear associations with Fuji, this kind of makes me wonder...

Hummer

How do you know that the frame was made by Fuji? Have you seen the serial number?

Not all Campania frames have Fuji serial numbers.

AdventureManCO 

My size, too. But last time I went in they had it priced $65 higher

juvela

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Thank you!

Had been thinking all Campania were Fuji produced.

If there are other providers are you familiar with them?

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Couple year back the forum had a post from a member who had worked at the Van Nuys facility doing assembly.

Perhaps they shall have information to contribute...

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Forum member noobinsf has knowledge of the quality Campania models; may have some information to share.

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Returning to the "Van Nuys" headset -

its locknut is the same pattern as that of the Tange model MA60, one of the reasons suspect Tange as the maker

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EVlove

I haven't been to the Bike Connector in a good while but I see they've been busy fixing up a good number of their warehouse bikes for a spring sale. March 15, 16, 18, 19, from 10 to 4. Details and pictures here.

If you've never been, this is right downtown, steps from Lowell HS, which means parking is a challenge at all times, and the street gets shut down to regular traffic when school lets out.

Robvolz 

Bike Farm in Portland just got A COUPLE OF FUSOs

Mad Honk 

Saturday I got a call from one of the principals in the local Co-Op asking for help in the shop for a session. Of course I went, and got a deal on an old bike in return. It has a lot of interesting parts and seems more of a dog's breakfast of parts added to the frame to get to a complete bike. So tonight I picked it up and I think I would like a bit of help in figuring out what it is I got. Some pictures:

Older model stem and bars, but pretty cool items.

Strong Light crank seems pretty nice also.

Bottom bracket detail, I think it is close to 1970's.

One bottle cage so not a bike from 1980's.

Shimano 600 brake set, so maybe late1970's?

Rear drop out detail with Suntour looking hubs. and late 1970's type of drop out adjuster plastic caps.

Seat stay treatment and lug design.

Way cool seat that is going back to the co-op since I don't need it.

Seems to have nice wheels and build seems to make me think they may be late 1970's.

Looks like newer tires so nothing special to see here.

Thanks for the help in sleuthing this one out. Smiles, MH

repechage

No headlugs or fork crown image?

a visual name that tune, guessing with minimal information.

Mad Honk 

I got to see it in daylight today. here are the latest pictures:

In the sun on the stand.

Rear drop out and drive mechanism.

Dura Ace FD and Stronglight crank

Crusty Campy shift levers.

Top tube and head tube juncture with Campy HS; needs re-chromed.

Pretty rusty bottom bracket but plastic sleeve looks to be intact.

Lower head tube and down tube juncture

Fork crown with clover looking stamp and yellow paint fill.
No signs of any chrome on the frame so it must be some lower level frame, and plenty of rust. It will get a bit of Oxalic bath and then to the sandblasters at Pro Kote Indy Smiles, MH

AdventureManCO 

Yep…that stx rd might just be the most valuable part!

repechage

Pre 1976, maybe before 1974. Fork reinforcement windows will help with approx date.
no chrome on the frames at this point. A Super. The chainstay bridge is less than I was expecting, I did not catch any reinforcements first set of images.

repechage

Curious double post

Erzulis Boat 

It's got the older chainstay bridge it looks like, with the "rings" and not the ellipse/drop. It's definitely in a window of early 70's. Fork crown could have been chrome, looks like a repaint. DO adjusters are replacements after the guy lost them after the paint expedition I'm thinking.

No crown cutouts that I can see.

Mad Honk 

Well I spent some time looking at the forks and yes the same clover is on a stay reinforcement. I can only find a single image of a 1973 without a chrome fork crown so I think this may have been an original 1973. I'm not much on the paint and there is a bit of rust tracking showing on the main tubes. My inner self is telling me to head to the powder coat shop for a good sandblasting and a solid finish to save what is left of this one. Size is 58cm center to top of tube, so put out of my riding range. Now the real questions of saving it as is or giving it a new life and color cover. Smiles, MH

Erzulis Boat 

If no chrome, I would 100% have Franklin (or similar) wet paint and decal it properly. To me, it's not a powder coat bike. One of my brothers powdered a Medici and "ruined" it IMO. If it doesn't fit, pass it on is my take.

ETA- Unless I am missing something, that frame looks 100% sound (rust-wise) and will clean up as new after a blast.

Mad Honk 

At this time I am not quite sure what will happen to this frame. As a first for me, I have been approached about selling it before I ever get it taken apart. The headset needs to go out to the chrome platers before it will be presentable. And a few other items seem to be a little less than ideal for a good build.
As for re-coating it, I have had over a dozen frames done at Pro Kote Indy and all have come back in great shaped and ready for decals. The shop is top notch in what they do. In about a month they will get swamped with recoating all of the large Race team tool boxes that we see at all Nascar, Monster Truck, and F-1 races. So I have every confidence in the coatings they do.

This is one of my bikes that PKI recoated. I am perfectly fine with the work they do.

Some detail of the work that they do for re-coating.
So it will be a few days before any work is done on this one. Smiles, MH

cyccommute 

We got a super clean 2002 Cannondale RT1000 tandem in at the shop a week ago. During the prep that we put the bike through, two of our volunteers found a problem with the crank. It wouldn’t shift from the middle ring to the inner ring. It would derail the chain but the chain wouldn’t mesh with the teeth on the inner chainring. They measured the difference between the rings and found that the inner ring was further away from the middle ring than the middle ring was from the outer ring. They gave up and left it for someone who understands tandems. Which means me.






I decided to use a shim to move the middle ring over. I rifled through the spacers and washers and found 5 that were about the right width. I decided to change the rings while I was at it since a 54/11 (139”) gear is tall even for a tandem. Once I loosened up and removed the chainring bolts, out slipped a spacer on each bolt. Oddly, 4 of the 5 were on the outer chainring side of the spider while the last one was on the middle chainring side of the spider. I moved all of the spacers to the middle chainring side and the bike shifts like a champ.

The thing about the spacers is that they look like they were from the factory. The tandem has very low miles on it and isn’t even dirty. I suspect that the couple was frustrated with performance for 19 years and just decided to dump it off on us. ‘Tis a shame, it’s a great bike…now.

Minion1

Is the inner chainring aligned properly? That little tab on the inner side of the small ring is supposed to go behind the crank, so it would need to be rotated anticlockwise one bolt hole. The shifting ramps may not line up leading to poor shifting. The colour of the rings is also a bit different, are they the same brand/age? Also if the outer ring is 54, and the inner is 36, that is a greater leap in chainring teeth than most front mechs can handle.

I've had those spacers on Shimano 9 speed octalink cranks before, not sure about their purpose other than chainring spacing? Don't know why they couldn't beef up the thickness of the tabs a touch instead.

Of course if you already know this please disregard: preaching to the choir et cetera, I don't like to assume someone else's level of knowledge.

cyccommute 

I hadn’t noticed the tab but everything shifts just fine. Nice and crisp. Two rings aren’t the same brand. One is a Shimano and the other is a Sugino but again, that doesn’t have an effect on the shifting. I also changed the chainrings from the original ones. The outer ring from the factory was a 54 which, as I said, is way too tall even for a tandem. I used a 46/36 and added a 26 inner because the original was a 32 which isn’t nearly low enough for a tandem here in Colorado.

Or just shave a bit off the mounts for the inner ring. The spacers are 0.4mm. I had originally considered filing off that amount on the inner ring mounts

Mad Honk 

I'm wondering about Molteni orange for a new color? Smiles, MH

Erzulis Boat 

I have a 75/76 Super in the raw right now. It's going to paint within a few days. I batted Molteni Orange around mentally, but after going to Eroica every year, I am "Moltenied out"

I am stuck between the ice blue, or maybe that crazy green shade. That being said, orange really works both historically, and goes great with silver bits.

Tough choices eh?

Mad Honk 

Well,
I am going to let the new owner decide on the color, It is too big for me to ride so it is moving on. Smiles, MH

repechage

‘Colnago had some interesting solid opaque colors, a reduced chroma yellow using all black graphics and a lilac.
both very cool.