1987 Ironman Expert freewheel or cassette?
03-06-20, 02:37 PM
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1987 Ironman Expert freewheel or cassette?
Wondering about a replacement but I'm not sure if the original is a freewheel or cassette.
03-06-20, 02:47 PM
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Post a picture -- even with the specs in front of you, the wheel may have been switched out. The derailleur would work with either set up, so it really does depend on the specific wheel.
03-06-20, 02:53 PM
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The Ironman thread suggests it would have been a 6-speed freewheel originally for either model.
03-06-20, 02:55 PM
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03-06-20, 02:58 PM
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03-06-20, 03:00 PM
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03-06-20, 03:14 PM
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Next question is can I replace it with a 7 speed freewheel? I don't see many 6 speed freewheels for sale.
03-06-20, 03:39 PM
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03-06-20, 04:20 PM
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Post a photo of the _WHEEL_, from the right side. That could be an early Uniglide cassette, that assembles using the smallest cog, threaded on, rather than a lock ring.
Rough visual guide:
- Flat splined ring that spins when you hold the wheel and spin the freewheel backward - "new" style (hyperglide) cassette - uses cassette lock ring tool and one chain whip
- Deep splined opening, that does not spin when you hold the wheel and spin the freewheel backward - freewheel - uses Shimano splined freewheel tool and usually a bigeffin' cheater bar
- No splines visible, no notches, looks like there's nothing holding the whole she-bang together - Early cassette as described above - requires two chain whips to loosen smallest cog to disassemble.
Rough visual guide:
- Flat splined ring that spins when you hold the wheel and spin the freewheel backward - "new" style (hyperglide) cassette - uses cassette lock ring tool and one chain whip
- Deep splined opening, that does not spin when you hold the wheel and spin the freewheel backward - freewheel - uses Shimano splined freewheel tool and usually a bigeffin' cheater bar
- No splines visible, no notches, looks like there's nothing holding the whole she-bang together - Early cassette as described above - requires two chain whips to loosen smallest cog to disassemble.
03-06-20, 04:39 PM
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03-06-20, 04:58 PM
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03-06-20, 05:00 PM
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From the looks of it, that's a Shimano Uniglide 6s freewheel and chain.
As far as installing a 7s frewheel, a Shimano 7s freewheel will need an extra 2mm of clearance between the face of the smallest cog and the inside surface of the dropout versus with the 6s freewheel and 6s-width chain.
Some frames will need a bit more clearance, but only if the smallest cog is 14t or more, and if the seatstay end somewhat protrudes inward at such height to possibly contact the chain while shifting inward from the smallest cog.
If the existing clearance between the inside of the dropout and the face of the smallest cog with the current 6s freewheel is 5.5mm or more, then most likely a 7s Shimano freewheel will work perfectly (together a narrower 7-8s chain of course). So the installed 7s freewheel will need about 3.5mm of clearance from the face of it's smallest cog to the inside face of the dropout, and just possibly a bit more.
Note that other brands of freewheels may incur a small extra bit of axle width required to achieve the same 3.5mm of clearance to the dropout, versus a Shimano freewheel. Sunrace and Maillard freewheels come to mind here, but only because I tested and compared the fit (vs. vintage Shimano 7s freewheels) of these particular brands.
As far as installing a 7s frewheel, a Shimano 7s freewheel will need an extra 2mm of clearance between the face of the smallest cog and the inside surface of the dropout versus with the 6s freewheel and 6s-width chain.
Some frames will need a bit more clearance, but only if the smallest cog is 14t or more, and if the seatstay end somewhat protrudes inward at such height to possibly contact the chain while shifting inward from the smallest cog.
If the existing clearance between the inside of the dropout and the face of the smallest cog with the current 6s freewheel is 5.5mm or more, then most likely a 7s Shimano freewheel will work perfectly (together a narrower 7-8s chain of course). So the installed 7s freewheel will need about 3.5mm of clearance from the face of it's smallest cog to the inside face of the dropout, and just possibly a bit more.
Note that other brands of freewheels may incur a small extra bit of axle width required to achieve the same 3.5mm of clearance to the dropout, versus a Shimano freewheel. Sunrace and Maillard freewheels come to mind here, but only because I tested and compared the fit (vs. vintage Shimano 7s freewheels) of these particular brands.
03-06-20, 05:19 PM
#13
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Yes you can convert it to a 7 speed set up. This is a 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert that I installed a new set of Vuelta (130mm spaced rear) XRP wheels, Microshift 7 speed brifters & a bunch of other expensive upgrades on. Weighs 21.5 lbs. A dream to ride.
03-06-20, 05:50 PM
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the Suntour freewheel and chain to a newer Sunrace freewheel and chain. The 89 went
from kerchunck, kerchunck, kerchunk to just the click of the shifter. Very quiet and smooth.
03-07-20, 11:44 PM
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If you do change wheels 9 or 10 speed is no problem. I have changed 2 Ironman bikes a 88 & a 89 to 10 speed with one being a double and one a triple. Only problem is finding 10 speed down tube shifters. Dura-Ace are really nice but getting harder to find. Micro Shift makes some but I haven't tried them. If you want brifters they are very common.
03-08-20, 09:09 AM
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If you do change wheels 9 or 10 speed is no problem. I have changed 2 Ironman bikes a 88 & a 89 to 10 speed with one being a double and one a triple. Only problem is finding 10 speed down tube shifters. Dura-Ace are really nice but getting harder to find. Micro Shift makes some but I haven't tried them. If you want brifters they are very common.
little smoother like my 89 Ironman does.
03-08-20, 11:22 AM
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1) Get it all cleaned up- surgically clean. Your RD as pictured is full of grit, likely causing some obstruction to fine movements, which are critical to smooth shifting.
2) Replace the shift cables and housing with premium products- Shimano's high end drawn stainless steel cables run about $5 each but will last for decades. Use Shimano brand or similar cable housing, properly cut and profiled to ensure minimum friction.
3) Clean and lube your chain religiously. The brand of lube is less critical than the frequency with which you use it. Always clean off your chain with a clean towel after lubing- both sides and top/bottom.
4) Clean and maintain the pulley wheels. Periodically remove and disassemble the RD to clean and lube (see above) and at the same time completely disassemble the pulley wheels and bushings and clean and lube. If the teeth appear worn, install new wheels- they cost less than $10.
If all that doesn't make it good enough, them the only real upgrade I'd suggest is to an HG tooth profile freewheel. UG always worked fine for me, but there's no question that HG teeth assist in smooth shifting. If you can't find one in the range you need, contact member pastorbobinNH and have him make you one.
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Last edited by rccardr; 03-08-20 at 11:29 AM.
