Looking to upgrade freewheel on road bike
#1
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Looking to upgrade freewheel on road bike
I just found out that you can buy freewheels with cogs that have shift ramps. I knew all the modern cassette cogs have the ramps and it makes shifting MUCH better. So I want to change to a newer freewheel that has the ramps
I have an older road bike. It has 5 x 3 gears. The rear freewheel (not a cassette) is 13-24 The chain rings are 52-42-34. It uses non-indexed friction shifters. I don't need indexing but want improved shifting and the ability to shift under power.
I'm just getting back to riding and at 62, not as strong as I was and there are some 1,000 foot hills near me I want to be riding in a few months. I'm guessing I might want a bigger than 24 cog in the rear but I've not recently used the 52x13 setup. For me 52x13 would be only needed for a suicidal downhill run.
I'm not really looking for advice on gearing. I want to know is what is the best quality freewheel. that can work for me? Just by reading specs I've found the "Shimano Tourney TZ 7-speed 14-28"
I'm searching on Amazon and found the above. But perhaps there is a better option not on Amazon or the big on-line shops.
I've already done what else I can to make shifting work work well for what it is. New high-end cable, housing and chain. It all works like new but new was 1978.
I have an older road bike. It has 5 x 3 gears. The rear freewheel (not a cassette) is 13-24 The chain rings are 52-42-34. It uses non-indexed friction shifters. I don't need indexing but want improved shifting and the ability to shift under power.
I'm just getting back to riding and at 62, not as strong as I was and there are some 1,000 foot hills near me I want to be riding in a few months. I'm guessing I might want a bigger than 24 cog in the rear but I've not recently used the 52x13 setup. For me 52x13 would be only needed for a suicidal downhill run.
I'm not really looking for advice on gearing. I want to know is what is the best quality freewheel. that can work for me? Just by reading specs I've found the "Shimano Tourney TZ 7-speed 14-28"
I'm searching on Amazon and found the above. But perhaps there is a better option not on Amazon or the big on-line shops.
I've already done what else I can to make shifting work work well for what it is. New high-end cable, housing and chain. It all works like new but new was 1978.
#2
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Identify the hub to make sure it isn't something totally obsolete like a Maillard Helicomatic.
In my limited experience with 5 speeds, expect to have to add a washer or 2 under the DS lock nut to give enough cog clearance to the drop out.
This throws off the dish by 1/2 the spacer thickness.
Does the RDER have enough capacity?
Largest cog-
Chain wrap-
Since age is permanent, you might consider a crank set with smaller rings.
In my limited experience with 5 speeds, expect to have to add a washer or 2 under the DS lock nut to give enough cog clearance to the drop out.
This throws off the dish by 1/2 the spacer thickness.
Does the RDER have enough capacity?
Largest cog-
Chain wrap-
Since age is permanent, you might consider a crank set with smaller rings.
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These days the quality (as in bearing surface finish and machining tolerances) of freewheels is a non issue as only the least expensive bikes have a 5 cog freewheel (and few/no companies are making repair market hi end 5 cog freewheels). I consider current Shimano freewheels to be about the best out there, not saying they are hi end or super well finished, just better then the cheaper aftermarket that is so common.
I know you didn't ask for gearing suggestions but... this is the interweb I would strongly consider reducing the chainring sizes in addition to the freewheel. A 28-36-46, as example, will give far more useable ratios all across the range and not just at the low end. Additionally you can get pinned and ramped rings to improve the front shifting.
Last thing is that we need to slap your wrist in your seeking out bad shifting technique as your goal. Shifting under power is always a no-no! Can it be done and done smoothly? Sometimes but the derailleur system requires the chain to lift up and off the cog/ring teeth and this raising of the chain is easiest with a somewhat slack chain tension. Andy
I know you didn't ask for gearing suggestions but... this is the interweb I would strongly consider reducing the chainring sizes in addition to the freewheel. A 28-36-46, as example, will give far more useable ratios all across the range and not just at the low end. Additionally you can get pinned and ramped rings to improve the front shifting.
Last thing is that we need to slap your wrist in your seeking out bad shifting technique as your goal. Shifting under power is always a no-no! Can it be done and done smoothly? Sometimes but the derailleur system requires the chain to lift up and off the cog/ring teeth and this raising of the chain is easiest with a somewhat slack chain tension. Andy
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Since you currently have a 5 speed freewheel it is safe to assume that your rear dropout spacing is 120mm. A 7 speed freewheel requires that the spacing be 6 mm wider. You would be better buying a 6 speed freewheel which would fit your frame spacing better. Shimano does make a 6 speed model:
Product Custom | D'Amour Bicycle & Sports
Product Custom | D'Amour Bicycle & Sports
#5
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If you really think that you will enjoy the sport, consider buying a modern bike with 700c wheels and indexed shifting. Indexed shifting makes the bike so much more pleasant to operate. You won't find many triple cranks today and the cassettes will have at least 8 sprockets, even on low level bikes.
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Vintage 5 speed bike and hills I'd also upgrade my brake pads to Kool Stops
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Going to a 7 speed freewheel will increase the unsupported length of axle between the driveside hub bearing and the frame, and this makes axle bending and breakage much more common.
You could look for a more modern wheel with a ‘freehub’ design, 7 speeds are getting rare but 8 and 9 speed cassettes (the gear cluster that is replaced as freewheels used to be) are still around and will work with your friction shifting equipment, except for the chain which needs to be selected to match the number of cogs.
You will also likely need to re-space the rear triangle of your frame to fit a wider hub.
7 speeds will also require a modern chain and possible respacing of the frame.
You could look for a more modern wheel with a ‘freehub’ design, 7 speeds are getting rare but 8 and 9 speed cassettes (the gear cluster that is replaced as freewheels used to be) are still around and will work with your friction shifting equipment, except for the chain which needs to be selected to match the number of cogs.
You will also likely need to re-space the rear triangle of your frame to fit a wider hub.
7 speeds will also require a modern chain and possible respacing of the frame.
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There is a member on Bike Forums, Pastor Bob. He has been remaking and refurbishing freewheels for at least the years I've been on the forums, and is uniformly credited with doing an excellent job. He's seen about everything disassembled on his bench, and would be my go-to guy for advice.
To minimize your overall troubles, I'd suggest trying to see if Pastor Bob can make you one which matches your 5 speed need and has sprockets that will shift well. If you have a GREAT!!!!! LBS I'd ask them about cold-setting the rear end to 126 mm and converting your rear hub axle accordingly, with the strongest available axle material. If they fill you with confidence cold-set your frame, convert your wheel, and buy something like your 7-speed. If you doubt them even a little, reach out to Pastor Bob.
To minimize your overall troubles, I'd suggest trying to see if Pastor Bob can make you one which matches your 5 speed need and has sprockets that will shift well. If you have a GREAT!!!!! LBS I'd ask them about cold-setting the rear end to 126 mm and converting your rear hub axle accordingly, with the strongest available axle material. If they fill you with confidence cold-set your frame, convert your wheel, and buy something like your 7-speed. If you doubt them even a little, reach out to Pastor Bob.