VtwinVince

You're right Bill, those two make a nice pair.

JaccoW

Tried to roll out the dent in the top tube of my Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller using homemade wooden frame blocks. They don't work all that well it seems, too much flex.

What size would you recommend for a 29mm (with paint) top tube?

A quick online calculation would suggest a 1 1/8 inch block.

That would lead me to either Biketoolsetc for $48, The Bicycle Academy for a lot of money for the whole set or ParagonMachineWorks for $15 though the latter is more of a frame clamping block to keep it in place.

Any further experiences here?

oneclick 

Get the Paragon ones, they are what you need. If at all possible use a vice not the screws to tighten.

Wood blocks are not worth more than one desperate use. That Bicycle Academy listing reminds me of the Silver Rock Signature beechwood volume knob for only $485. Do they have a brick-and-mortar store - I wonder if they also sell candles and special herbal tea blends.

JaccoW

Yeah I got the same response from them. They are clamping blocks to hold things in place. Not to roll out dents. I contacted a nearby local framebuilder to ask if they happen to have these things in stock, otherwise I will just have to spring for the Paragon blocks and order a vice.

denaffen

I picked up a vintage folding bike, and it's going to be quite a project. Documented the teardown here https://www.re-cycled.net/posts/2021/01/luxus-intro/

and here's a pic

Wildwood 

Been doing all work myself what with not visiting friends and bike shop repair times.
By golly, having the right tools made the last 2 BB installs a pleasure. And safer for the paint.


just do it. buy the tools.

2cam16

Worked on my '94 Stumpy this morning. Added a set of black LX cantis and switched my bars to black and also my wheel skewers. It's an almost all LX groupset now sans the shifters and levers.
IMG_5286 by 2cam16, on Flickr
IMG_5288 by 2cam16, on Flickr

JaccoW

Did a parts bin build for a neighbour using the 1995 Koga-Miyata Adventure I bought for cheap last year. She's happy and a lot faster now.

It was originally a 15.3kg (33lbs) hybrid with splined triple butted tubing. I believe we did bring the weight down a bit as it feels pretty light but it's just a zippy commuter now. The original chainguard is hanging on by a thread but she will probably look at replacing that when it really breaks down.

randyjawa 

Assembled yesterday and took a pic, or two, in the sunlight to see how the paint brush paint job looks in real light (still need a drive chain)...

DorkDisk

I've been taking too long with this one; might try to push it out next week. It is supposed to be a winter bike.


1994 Trek Multitrack 750

Mr. 66

The Trek 716 got the headset rebuilt, new saddle, the raisedsaddle 3/16", and installed lights on the bike and helmet.



The 716 has become my night rider.

capnjonny 

At the Bike Exchange you never know what you will find in the always changing rows of donated bikes waiting to be fixed up for donation or sale. I go I at least once a week and look for quality bikes that are bedraggled and in need of a bath but have good bones and, with a thorough cleaning and some new or new/ used parts, can be made to look and ride as good or better then new. I love Mixte’s and I love Miyata’s so when I saw this one I knew I was going to take it home. The paint reminded me of the gold Miyata touring 1000 I fixed up last year. Too bad we sold it (instantly) as they would have made a great pair.



The first thing to go were the drop bars. These should be city bikes and upright bars are perfect. The original gearing was (14-28) 6 speed rear and (52-45-28) triple front but who wants to double shift all the time so I swapped in 48 and 38 tooth rings. I love this set up as it gives you 3 discrete gear ranges, big for downhill, middle for flats, and small for hills.



Also changed were the shifters from downtube to thumbies, another passion of mine. You never have to take your hands off the bars or your eyes off the road. The bike originally had cantilever brakes. I have been doing a lot of vintage mountain bikes with Canti’s that I have been swapping out with v brakes because they are easier to set up and adjust and we have lots of v brake parts and levers in the shop. Also I think they update the look of the bike. Lastly, I put on a pair of platform pedals. We aren’t allowed to put clips and straps on pedals and these are a great alternative.



Hope you all like the result. The bike should sell fast. It is a real beauty

ascherer 

Lacing a Velo Orange PBP rim to the Sturmey XR-F8 on my commuter.

dunrobin

Changed the front fork to a rigid.. Changed the drivetrain to a 1x10. Pre 90s Raleigh ti tomac. Weighs under 20lbs without pedals for a 16".

Nemosengineer 

Brought a 65 year old 400 horsepower Worthington high pressure (400 psi) compressor back from death's door. The mounting ear cracked off the loader valve, so weld repair with structural stiffener attached with 8 ea. 5'16" bolts.

20210127_085006 by nemosengineer, on Flickr

IMG_20210128_090505_01 by nemosengineer, on Flickr

IMG_20210128_120524_01 by nemosengineer, on Flickr

IMG_20210201_072306_01 by nemosengineer, on Flickr

8 hours later back in operation.

20210201_120420_HDR by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

Chuck M 

I couldn't get the old spokes on this 54 year old wheel to look as good as the hub and rim, so new stainless spoke were installed tonight. Tomorrow, the rear wheel gets the same treatment.

xiaoman1 

Mike,
If only I had the access to equipment like you do.....Nice work...!!!!
Best, Ben

billnuke1 

Exactly what operation would that be? Opening and/or closing large valves...

Nemosengineer 

Two spring loaded valves internal to the compressor are actuated by diaphragms in two housings with pushrods attached.
At rest the compressor inlet is isolated from the low pressure (100 psi) supply air system that feeds the compressor, this is the load control diaphragm in the repaired housing.
The second diaphragm controls a valve that opens a port to a exhaust manifold, this is the unloader diaphragm in its own housing.
This is the ready state for compressor start up. As the compressor comes up to speed (400 rpm) the pressure on the diaphragms is released and air is compressed and discharged through a check valve.
The high pressure air system receiver tanks are maintained at roughly 400 psi.

This is what C&V looks like.
20210204_133741_HDR by nemosengineer, on Flickr

: Mike

Nemosengineer 

Thanks Ben,
The only downside is work has me running at WFO, doing 12 hour days, so no play time. This needs pictures...
This is my bicycle tab and bracket mill with 100% China content and a German chuck, very handy for small stuff, total cost under $200 , very handy.
It only took about 20 hours to build it, most of it in getting the cross slide to actually work. sadly I had to lube it with copper anti seize because oil wasn't doing it.


20181223_133312 by nemosengineer, on Flickr

Best Wishes: Mike

xiaoman1 

Mike,
I understand the demands of the real job but my access to shops at UCLA are limited to CNC, laser cutting and very limited metalworking equipment (wood of course). It would be nice to have some real equipment handy...even though I would have a steep learning curve ahead.
I used to have access to a body shop and worked with a frame alignment jig that was great at straightening frame as well as a spot weld gun that was great at pulling small dents (no rolling blocks) but the shop is long gone....nice to see that you aren't afraid to buy internationally.
What will we do with all the great CAD drawings when no one knows how to make machines....I guess 3-d print and bots.
Anyhow nice work.
Best, Ben

billnuke1 

Oh, man! I read brought as bought!🤭

JaccoW

Installed a front rack and bottle cage today. The new headset will have to wait until the shops are open again.

JacobLee 

Speaking of Miyatas, I’ve been trying to get these cyclocross cartridge pads to work with the Dura-Ace centerpulls that someone installed on my 82 610.



I’ve had no problems using them on a couple of sets of Weinmanns on my Raleighs, but on these Shimano brakes they slowly creep forward and rotate in the caliper arm. I guess they don’t have the same clamping surface as a block style pad. The bike also came to me with a narrowish set of 700c wheels, so salmon Kool-Stops aren’t thick enough to hit the rim squarely.



I cut a little piece of 1/4” tubing and slipped it over the stud on the brake pad. Hopefully, this will keep it centered in the arm, and hopefully if it doesn’t creep forward, it also won’t rotate up in the back.



We’ll see. The bike originally came with sidepulls, so if I had to throw on a set of Tektro 559s, it wouldn’t be the end of the world.

Anybody experience rotating pads before? Maybe I’m missing something!

Mogens

Hey, quick question: I'd like to buy a cartridge style bottom bracket for a trek 420. I'm using a Sugino Maxy crankset with a single chainring. I've been looking at charts, searching through forums, googling like mad, and I feel completely mystified by the standards, spindle lengths, etc. Anyone either have a decent resource to suggest or know this stuff offhand? Thanks!