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What is the ONE change you would make so your hybrid rode faster?

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What is the ONE change you would make so your hybrid rode faster?

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Old 09-04-15, 12:44 PM
  #26  
Dilberto
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If running disc brakes - Mavic C29ssmax UST disc wheels(1755g) can be had, for well under $300/used and below $450/new. Running road tubeless is now attainable.
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Old 09-04-15, 03:14 PM
  #27  
Lt Stonez
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Originally Posted by BigL_RIP
LOL. Mine was weighed with cage also. Yeah, I'd imagine a repurposed Roubaix frame would be lighter. Had I dropped a chainring/FD and gone to lighter tires, I could've shaved some more. Still a decent disparity; has to be the frame.
13-14 models carbon sirrus is a roubaix frame and 15-16 is a new Sirrus frame. Do you think there is a big weigh differens from the 14 to the 15-16 frame?
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Old 09-04-15, 03:16 PM
  #28  
corwin1968
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Originally Posted by avidone1
What is the ONE change you would make so your hybrid rode faster?
There is only one right answer to your question: TIRES
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Old 09-04-15, 03:18 PM
  #29  
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High $$: power meter
Low $:bike fit; spd pedals
Free: higher vo2 max
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Old 09-04-15, 03:19 PM
  #30  
BigL_RIP
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Originally Posted by Lt Stonez
13-14 models carbon sirrus is a roubaix frame and 15-16 is a new Sirrus frame. Do you think there is a big weigh differens from the 14 to the 15-16 frame?
Well, I was speculating to that effect, yes. My bike is heavier than Monstermash's '14 was, despite similar efforts to reduce weight. Granted, his were more extreme than mine but there still seems to be some weight unaccounted for. I know some of it is to do with tires, so I will change those soon to better evaluate.
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Old 09-04-15, 05:40 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by corwin1968
There is only one right answer to your question: TIRES
Correct -- well, sort of 50% correct. Tires, and riding position/fitness; that's about it. Tires: lowering rolling resistance. Position: lowering aero resistance. The rest has only very small effect on 'speed'. The effect is real, but it is very, very small. Simple physics. Does it matter? Sure; if one is an elite pro a few seconds gained over the course of a 200 km race directly as a result of equipment differences/bike weight can be the difference between 1st and 2nd. For the rest of us? Nope.

Lighter, nicer bits are -- well -- lighter and nicer. That includes wheels. Dropping from a 2100-2200 gram stock wheelset to something much lighter is nice, and does make the bike feel a bit quicker handling, but it won't in/of itself make one "faster".

Caveat: I like light bikes, and I have upgraded and do 'upgrade' to lighten mine. But it doesn't make me 'faster', nor will it do so for anyone else. Speed comes from position on the bike, and fitness. I just like my bikes to be decently light weight. My 2010 Sirrus Comp stock was around 23 lbs; it's now 19.4 with pedals. It isn't "faster"; that's up to me.
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Old 09-05-15, 01:15 PM
  #32  
Paradaz
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The rider losing weight would always make the most difference ..........following that, wheelset.
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Old 09-05-15, 01:40 PM
  #33  
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I'd have to go with the trekking bars I had installed at the beginning of the year. It allowed me to go farther, with more hand positions, and faster with the ability to get into a good tuck and stay in it while pedaling at my max.

I do like my Mavics and Schwalbes but the handlebars made a more lasting impression!
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Old 09-05-15, 05:21 PM
  #34  
Maverick 13330
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IMO and in this order..
1. Riders position. Since i shed 4" off the original lenght, Boxer bar ends and an aerobar. I am now 2mph faster than i am when i bought my bike 5 months ago. The different grip and riding position made me last for hour biking and IMO stronger compare to months ago.
2. Riders weight. Spending a lot of time made me lose more weights.I am now 20lbs lighter since i start biking again last spring and every other week my speed increase tenths of a mile.when i started my Roam i only average 12mph on a 2900ft elevation gain,now i trekked the same loop with an improved 15.5Mph.
3. Bike's weight. Not sure though,my bike still weighs at around 35lbs with all the accessories and stock tires of 40mm.
4. Tires. Maybe ill go faster when i replace my 40mm schwable tires next season.
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Old 09-05-15, 06:57 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Monstermash
Yes, there would be a huge benefit. I would try and source some used Mavic Ksyrium SL, SLR's or something similar. If you're patient you can find a good set on your local craig's list or on ebay for around $300-400.
If you go for Mavics & intend to keep them for a while, get a few spare spokes - they'll be rare in 5 years time. My Crossmax XL's are gathering dust due to a broken spoke and replacements no longer available.
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Old 09-06-15, 11:17 AM
  #36  
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You - the cyclist ..........ride more
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Old 09-06-15, 01:14 PM
  #37  
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Picking a model made without a Sus Fork . then getting over a speed obsession and Letting that go.
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Old 09-06-15, 02:16 PM
  #38  
Lt Stonez
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Easy! Clipless pedals, or combi like shimano 530. If you learn to pedal in circle its told to gain you 20-25% atleast it works good for me.
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Old 09-06-15, 04:14 PM
  #39  
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I actually do not need my hybrid to ride faster, I can get it going fairly quick as it is. I ride a lot of trails that have loose gravel, you do not want high speeds on this stuff especially the turns. When I'm on pavement I get my bike up to some fairly good speeds. If I want a road bike, I'll buy a road bike, why bother wasting money on making your hybrid faster? My hybrid does exactly what I expected, and performs exactly as I expected.

So the only thing I would change is my attitude.

Buy the right bike for the right ride.

Last edited by spiralcity; 09-06-15 at 04:18 PM.
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Old 09-07-15, 12:27 PM
  #40  
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I can't believe the weights of your bikes. Mine is 35 lbs.
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