Does anyone actually know how to remove the freehub from a Vision Team 30 rear wheel?
#51
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try and just bang that F out! remove the NDS cap and bang towards the DS.
I saw a vid on youtube. and you will definitely have to get the axle out. because the freehub is then supposedly fastened to the hub with a bolt that requires a 12mm hex wrench. and its located deep inside. where the freehub meets the hubshell.
I saw a vid on youtube. and you will definitely have to get the axle out. because the freehub is then supposedly fastened to the hub with a bolt that requires a 12mm hex wrench. and its located deep inside. where the freehub meets the hubshell.
Thanks for the photos, this free hub can be removed once the drive side cone nut has been removed with a 17mm cone spanner and 5mm hex wrench in the axle end.
#52
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from what i saw there is only an o-ring holding the DS axle cap in the freehub after you remove any of the caps. and maybe one bearing will come out with the axle.
also the FSa answer is very vague.
I dont think you are going to get that cap off on the DS if you are not willing to go quite brutal. I personally would try banging the axle out from the other side first. then eventually, if that didnt work. try once again with getting the cap off. I like to try the most logical things first myself.
also the FSa answer is very vague.
I dont think you are going to get that cap off on the DS if you are not willing to go quite brutal. I personally would try banging the axle out from the other side first. then eventually, if that didnt work. try once again with getting the cap off. I like to try the most logical things first myself.
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from what i saw there is only an o-ring holding the DS axle cap in the freehub after you remove any of the caps. and maybe one bearing will come out with the axle.
also the FSa answer is very vague.
I dont think you are going to get that cap off on the DS if you are not willing to go quite brutal. I personally would try banging the axle out from the other side first. then eventually, if that didnt work. try once again with getting the cap off. I like to try the most logical things first myself.
also the FSa answer is very vague.
I dont think you are going to get that cap off on the DS if you are not willing to go quite brutal. I personally would try banging the axle out from the other side first. then eventually, if that didnt work. try once again with getting the cap off. I like to try the most logical things first myself.
#54
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no matter what you do one of the bearings are coming out. if you wanna remove the freehub that is. it looks like that at least.
#55
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to be very honest this looks one of the sh...iest constructions i have seen. talking hubs that is.
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You might just ride until it gets worse, then rebuild.
As far as LH threads vs RH threads, the QR should lock the end caps in place, so there is no need to use LH threads. It is possible that with complaints, Vision changed from one threading to another... but then caused more confusion.
Anyway, if you really want this apart, and don't wish to rebuild the wheel, then I'd start looking for a good donor hub with your axle, end caps, freehub, and pawls.
Then once you have the replacement parts, just tear down the old hub and rebuild with new parts.
How are the bearings?
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As far as LH threads vs RH threads, the QR should lock the end caps in place, so there is no need to use LH threads. It is possible that with complaints, Vision changed from one threading to another... but then caused more confusion.
Anyway, if you really want this apart, and don't wish to rebuild the wheel, then I'd start looking for a good donor hub with your axle, end caps, freehub, and pawls.
Then once you have the replacement parts, just tear down the old hub and rebuild with new parts.
Then once you have the replacement parts, just tear down the old hub and rebuild with new parts.
How are the bearings?
#58
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trust me. for you to remove the freehub one of the bearings are coming out. since one of the main bearings is situated in the very outer end of the freehub.
#64
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I received a Vision Team 30 Wheelset with my PlanetX bike (disc brake cross wheels, 135 QR). About 10,000 miles in and I've got some grating in the rear hub (I've previously removed the freehub and cleaned out the dirt and dust -- it was a temporary fix); it was about time to check the bearings.
The freehub itself was a friction fit on the axle, and the pawls interlock with teeth on the hub shell. Removal was straightforward:
1. Remove bearing preload endcaps. They should be hand-tight, but if they are stuck, they are fitted for a 5mm allen wrench. (In my case, one came off easily enough, the other spun with the axle. In this case, the axle can be held with a 12mm allen wrench.)
2. Slide the freehub off the axle. There were three bearings: one primary external drive-side bearing, which nearly fell out, and two additional freehub bearings, which remained inside the freehub body (the innermost bearing is retained with a circlip). Also note there are a pair of sleeves which act as spacers between the bearings.
3. For a complete service, of the non-drive-side bearing, the axle will need to be removed from the hub shell. Although some have said "gently", this required several strikes from a real hammer (I used several layers of cloth to protect the axle). The axle itself served as a decent bearing punch. This was the "scariest" part, and I struggled before finally committing to beating it out of there.
All in all, the only bearing that was actually rough was the oversized non-drive-side bearing. The three freehub bearings were in good shape (by hand feel), but this deep into the wheel, I sourced replacements here as well. Overall, not difficult, but not sure that the process was any easier than a standard (Shimano XT) cup-and-cone. The price of the bearings was also a bit of a shock -- they can be had for as little as $2-4 from bulk suppliers, but retail for as much as $20 (each!) from stores like VXB.
The freehub itself was a friction fit on the axle, and the pawls interlock with teeth on the hub shell. Removal was straightforward:
1. Remove bearing preload endcaps. They should be hand-tight, but if they are stuck, they are fitted for a 5mm allen wrench. (In my case, one came off easily enough, the other spun with the axle. In this case, the axle can be held with a 12mm allen wrench.)
2. Slide the freehub off the axle. There were three bearings: one primary external drive-side bearing, which nearly fell out, and two additional freehub bearings, which remained inside the freehub body (the innermost bearing is retained with a circlip). Also note there are a pair of sleeves which act as spacers between the bearings.
3. For a complete service, of the non-drive-side bearing, the axle will need to be removed from the hub shell. Although some have said "gently", this required several strikes from a real hammer (I used several layers of cloth to protect the axle). The axle itself served as a decent bearing punch. This was the "scariest" part, and I struggled before finally committing to beating it out of there.
All in all, the only bearing that was actually rough was the oversized non-drive-side bearing. The three freehub bearings were in good shape (by hand feel), but this deep into the wheel, I sourced replacements here as well. Overall, not difficult, but not sure that the process was any easier than a standard (Shimano XT) cup-and-cone. The price of the bearings was also a bit of a shock -- they can be had for as little as $2-4 from bulk suppliers, but retail for as much as $20 (each!) from stores like VXB.
Last edited by Bulette; 12-19-20 at 10:38 AM.
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What ever happened to your wheel?
I came here because I had the exact same problem. I wanted to service my freehub because I thought it was bad (some noises). I think a have a similar model to yours.
Mine is a VISION 35 from 2017.
I released the cap in the drive end with a 5mm allen key and a 17mm cone spanner that I had to purchase.
And after my experience with a MTB mavic wheel from 2009 I thought that was enough. Also after reading your messages which what the FSA representative said, and particularly after watching the very clarifying GCN video I was sure that was it. Isntīt it incredible that there is not enough info or videos of these freehub or wheels in the web?
But my freehub didnīt come out. And I didnīt want to try harder or put some extra force in the hub.
So I took my wheel to my local bike shop. The guy, which is a good bike mechanic inmediately confirmed I was right, but the freehub did not come out easily.
He had to put some extra force and hammer and finally could remove it, finding out that it did not come out easily because a bearing was completely snapped and this was the original cause of the noises. The freehub(poles or ratchets and teeth) seemed to be OK.
So Iīve left the wheel for the bearing to be replaced and hopefully that will do.
These vision wheels look and perform well but in four years with not more than 10000 k I have already had to replace bearings in both front and rear wheels
I came here because I had the exact same problem. I wanted to service my freehub because I thought it was bad (some noises). I think a have a similar model to yours.
Mine is a VISION 35 from 2017.
I released the cap in the drive end with a 5mm allen key and a 17mm cone spanner that I had to purchase.
And after my experience with a MTB mavic wheel from 2009 I thought that was enough. Also after reading your messages which what the FSA representative said, and particularly after watching the very clarifying GCN video I was sure that was it. Isntīt it incredible that there is not enough info or videos of these freehub or wheels in the web?
But my freehub didnīt come out. And I didnīt want to try harder or put some extra force in the hub.
So I took my wheel to my local bike shop. The guy, which is a good bike mechanic inmediately confirmed I was right, but the freehub did not come out easily.
He had to put some extra force and hammer and finally could remove it, finding out that it did not come out easily because a bearing was completely snapped and this was the original cause of the noises. The freehub(poles or ratchets and teeth) seemed to be OK.
So Iīve left the wheel for the bearing to be replaced and hopefully that will do.
These vision wheels look and perform well but in four years with not more than 10000 k I have already had to replace bearings in both front and rear wheels