Wheel Build Question:
#26
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Do'h! lol
#27
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Before you rule out Phil Wood on the weight issue, call them. There may be a specific piece of the hub that is the limiting factor. Perhaps they could build you one with that modified to work for you. All of their stuff is machined by them and built like it is custom. True custom may not cost any more than the weight.
If you call them, you will talk to the engineer. Challenges are what they do, Now, what you are asking osn't far off the ordinary and I bet they have a quick answer and a good solution for you. They have been building hubs for 'round the world tourists for 1/2 a century. (I contacted them for a bottom bracket with a spindle as narrow as possible so I could set up my crankset to have the chainring just miss the right chainstay paint and have the overall width as narrow as possible to keep the Q-factor down for my knees. They told me they could run a custom BB with any spindle I wanted, I sent them the asymmetry and overall width I wanted. Engineer came back telling me what I asked for could be done within the adjustibility of their narrow stock symmetrical BB and that they had one in stock. Worked out perfect.
Another real plus for Phil Wood - if your needs (or the current standards) change, the odds are very good that Phil can supply you with parts to refit the hub to the new use. If the hub is in a wheel you like - the update is likely a lot cheaper than a new hub (and spokes? and rim?) Also probably far quicker and easier. I have a front hub I got as a standard quick-release hub. Later I put the very stiff Jahndd (sp) LowRider rack on the bike. The rack was so stiff it was a real fight to get a QR wheel out unless I unscrewed and removed the quick-release. (Not QR.) Phil sold me a new axle with bolts. Much, much better!
I only have 3 Phil hubs and that BB. I wish I had more and that I had started acquiring them 40 years ago, Would have saved me money and hassle. They'd all still be running.
Ben
If you call them, you will talk to the engineer. Challenges are what they do, Now, what you are asking osn't far off the ordinary and I bet they have a quick answer and a good solution for you. They have been building hubs for 'round the world tourists for 1/2 a century. (I contacted them for a bottom bracket with a spindle as narrow as possible so I could set up my crankset to have the chainring just miss the right chainstay paint and have the overall width as narrow as possible to keep the Q-factor down for my knees. They told me they could run a custom BB with any spindle I wanted, I sent them the asymmetry and overall width I wanted. Engineer came back telling me what I asked for could be done within the adjustibility of their narrow stock symmetrical BB and that they had one in stock. Worked out perfect.
Another real plus for Phil Wood - if your needs (or the current standards) change, the odds are very good that Phil can supply you with parts to refit the hub to the new use. If the hub is in a wheel you like - the update is likely a lot cheaper than a new hub (and spokes? and rim?) Also probably far quicker and easier. I have a front hub I got as a standard quick-release hub. Later I put the very stiff Jahndd (sp) LowRider rack on the bike. The rack was so stiff it was a real fight to get a QR wheel out unless I unscrewed and removed the quick-release. (Not QR.) Phil sold me a new axle with bolts. Much, much better!
I only have 3 Phil hubs and that BB. I wish I had more and that I had started acquiring them 40 years ago, Would have saved me money and hassle. They'd all still be running.
Ben
#28
Banned
a dishless rear wheel , your 11 a Shimano Alfine IGH has advantages over a cassette wheel
because you crank the drive side spokes tighter, to force the hubshell to the left,
to make room for that stack of 11 cogs ..
a dishless cassette hub is achieved with a wider hub-axle , 145 or more..
which is a reason why tandems have really wide rear hubs..
Co Motion Went that way for some of their single touring bikes..
....
because you crank the drive side spokes tighter, to force the hubshell to the left,
to make room for that stack of 11 cogs ..
a dishless cassette hub is achieved with a wider hub-axle , 145 or more..
which is a reason why tandems have really wide rear hubs..
Co Motion Went that way for some of their single touring bikes..
....
#30
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Use whatever for the front. But as you're aware, the rear is critical, mostly because of dish.
So, the best place to start is minimising dish. An off-centre rim helps a lot. And using an 8/9/10 hub instead of 11s will help a lot too. There are a few ways to get eleven cogs on a 10s hub; I even have 10 cogs on a 7s hub (and 11 would just fit mine too, although YMMV).
I'd also advise a Shimano hub, from the standpoint of axle and bearing durability. Most other hubs have the DS axle bearing inboard of a floating cassette body, which is just dumb compared to Shimano's arrangement of using the cassette body as a stressed member with the axle bearing outside it. Using a Shimano hub also gives you plenty of scope to further minimise dish by messing around with various cones and locknuts to minimise the distance between the dropout and chain; this sort of fettling is usually difficult or not possible with other setups.
+1 for 13/15/14 spokes (pretty much just DT Alpines AFAIK).
And at your weight, I wouldn't go smaller than 28r, 25f.
So, the best place to start is minimising dish. An off-centre rim helps a lot. And using an 8/9/10 hub instead of 11s will help a lot too. There are a few ways to get eleven cogs on a 10s hub; I even have 10 cogs on a 7s hub (and 11 would just fit mine too, although YMMV).
I'd also advise a Shimano hub, from the standpoint of axle and bearing durability. Most other hubs have the DS axle bearing inboard of a floating cassette body, which is just dumb compared to Shimano's arrangement of using the cassette body as a stressed member with the axle bearing outside it. Using a Shimano hub also gives you plenty of scope to further minimise dish by messing around with various cones and locknuts to minimise the distance between the dropout and chain; this sort of fettling is usually difficult or not possible with other setups.
+1 for 13/15/14 spokes (pretty much just DT Alpines AFAIK).
And at your weight, I wouldn't go smaller than 28r, 25f.
#31
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Middleweight rim....something in the 700 x 15 to 700 x 17. 525 - 600g range.
Preferably with eyelets or double eyelets.
32 Hole will be fine...
2.34/1.8/2.0 spokes (13/15/14)
Don't worry about 11 speed hubs.
Both Shimano and Campy actually countered what would have been an increased asymmetrical dish problem with a shift in the freehub body. Diagrams available in Google Images show this.
I'm surprised so many people here are unaware of this.
Most important thing of all, is, who is building your wheels?
=8-)
Preferably with eyelets or double eyelets.
32 Hole will be fine...
2.34/1.8/2.0 spokes (13/15/14)
Don't worry about 11 speed hubs.
Both Shimano and Campy actually countered what would have been an increased asymmetrical dish problem with a shift in the freehub body. Diagrams available in Google Images show this.
I'm surprised so many people here are unaware of this.
Most important thing of all, is, who is building your wheels?
=8-)
__________________
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Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#32
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Good luck and have fun! Report back!
Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 10-18-18 at 10:19 PM.
#33
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What's this shift you're talking about...?
#34
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a dishless rear wheel , your 11 a Shimano Alfine IGH has advantages over a cassette wheel
because you crank the drive side spokes tighter, to force the hubshell to the left,
to make room for that stack of 11 cogs ..
a dishless cassette hub is achieved with a wider hub-axle , 145 or more..
which is a reason why tandems have really wide rear hubs..
Co Motion Went that way for some of their single touring bikes..
....
because you crank the drive side spokes tighter, to force the hubshell to the left,
to make room for that stack of 11 cogs ..
a dishless cassette hub is achieved with a wider hub-axle , 145 or more..
which is a reason why tandems have really wide rear hubs..
Co Motion Went that way for some of their single touring bikes..
....
ALL bicycle wheels have dish.
What you mean to say is a wheels with LESS asymmetrical dish of the appearance kind of dish.
Poison for those who don't know what they're doing.
=8-(
.
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#35
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In other words, tension, balanced tension, trueness and proper stress relieving are your most important concerns - assuming a decent rim and spokes for this particular build.
=8-)
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#36
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https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1680&bih=953&ei=eG3JW9eaJe-I_Qax0aewBg&q=10+speed+v.+11+speed+campy&oq=10+speed+v.+11+speed+campy&gs_l=img.3...1623.6215..6447. ..0.0..0.126.3001.0j26......0....1..gws-wiz-img.......0j0i5i30j0i8i30.R0wOiI4cJrM#imgrc=v50DtTQfcwX6MM:
Note the difference is less than 1mm.
16.8mm v. 16.2mm for drive offset - freehub push outward by extending OLD from 130 to 131.
Not something to lose sleep over.
=8-)
Note the difference is less than 1mm.
16.8mm v. 16.2mm for drive offset - freehub push outward by extending OLD from 130 to 131.
Not something to lose sleep over.
=8-)
__________________
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
#37
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Good decision. MUCH easier for a first wheel build to start with a rim that is flat and round.
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#38
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I will keep you all posted on this build.
#39
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Rear is a different animal I know. All my bikes have 36 spoke wheels on the rear. When I go to start looking at rims if I can go down to a 32 drillings the rim options are endless, but if I stick with 36 I am really limited to just a slim few. Can I build a 32 rear rim that will not cause havoc? I ride pavement 95% of the time and roads around here are not too bad.
I would suggest trying to find off-center drilled rims. Velocity A23 OC rims have an offset to them that allows for more even tension between the two sides of the wheel. That goes a long way towards a more durable wheel. Combined with a triple butted spoke, a wheel built around an OC rim is approaching as bomb proof as you can get.
fair question:
36 wheel options are well UGLY...there are some really nice looking 32H options. Durability is always on the forefront I guess. My current wheels look terrible to be fair and hubs are just not great quality I don't think. I don't care much about the actual weight of the wheels because I am the heavy part of the bike.
So really its just to a point of vanity and better quality hubs.
36 wheel options are well UGLY...there are some really nice looking 32H options. Durability is always on the forefront I guess. My current wheels look terrible to be fair and hubs are just not great quality I don't think. I don't care much about the actual weight of the wheels because I am the heavy part of the bike.
So really its just to a point of vanity and better quality hubs.
So I just got back from my bike shop. I have a great shop and talking to them and they had a pretty good idea actually. Being I have 36 spoke rims, why not just disassemble what I have, purchase new "pretty" better hubs and re-build. They suggested I strip the rims and just re-decal them with something else or leave plain black. rims now are black with some ugly decals that I could remove. Nothing wrong with the rims in reality.
I do run 11 speed and budged would be let say under $600? If that seems reasonable for some "blingy" hubs...…
I need to think this over a bit more maybe, this does seem like a good idea maybe
I do run 11 speed and budged would be let say under $600? If that seems reasonable for some "blingy" hubs...…
I need to think this over a bit more maybe, this does seem like a good idea maybe
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
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Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#42
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@cyccommute
Here is where I am at:
Velocity 36h rims, I think the model is the v or deep v or something like that. 36h, rear 32h front. I a going with Hope hubs because I can get red, I want red and I can get the drillings I like. I will take your spoke recommendation and use the dt alpine III spokes.
Only thing I have not decided on is the spoke nipples, going for black. Should I use brass or alloy version?
Here is where I am at:
Velocity 36h rims, I think the model is the v or deep v or something like that. 36h, rear 32h front. I a going with Hope hubs because I can get red, I want red and I can get the drillings I like. I will take your spoke recommendation and use the dt alpine III spokes.
Only thing I have not decided on is the spoke nipples, going for black. Should I use brass or alloy version?
#43
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@cyccommute
Here is where I am at:
Velocity 36h rims, I think the model is the v or deep v or something like that. 36h, rear 32h front. I a going with Hope hubs because I can get red, I want red and I can get the drillings I like. I will take your spoke recommendation and use the dt alpine III spokes.
Only thing I have not decided on is the spoke nipples, going for black. Should I use brass or alloy version?
Here is where I am at:
Velocity 36h rims, I think the model is the v or deep v or something like that. 36h, rear 32h front. I a going with Hope hubs because I can get red, I want red and I can get the drillings I like. I will take your spoke recommendation and use the dt alpine III spokes.
Only thing I have not decided on is the spoke nipples, going for black. Should I use brass or alloy version?
__________________
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#44
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@cyccommute
Here is where I am at:
Velocity 36h rims, I think the model is the v or deep v or something like that. 36h, rear 32h front. I a going with Hope hubs because I can get red, I want red and I can get the drillings I like. I will take your spoke recommendation and use the dt alpine III spokes.
Only thing I have not decided on is the spoke nipples, going for black. Should I use brass or alloy version?
Here is where I am at:
Velocity 36h rims, I think the model is the v or deep v or something like that. 36h, rear 32h front. I a going with Hope hubs because I can get red, I want red and I can get the drillings I like. I will take your spoke recommendation and use the dt alpine III spokes.
Only thing I have not decided on is the spoke nipples, going for black. Should I use brass or alloy version?
I’ve heard mediocre reviews on the ride of the Deep V’s other than their durability. If you want more grip, handling, road feel but still durable - there are certainly more fun (and only slightly less safe) choices out there. Another option would be the HED Belgium Plus - it has fantastic quality control and checks all the boxes.
#46
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‘Are you sure you want the “Deep V” rims. Sure these were recommended for “Clyde” riders for many years as the go-to choice. The thing is, current designs have moved on. The Deep V’s I believe still only have an internal width of, say -17mm which is going to limit your future tire choices. Why not go with a semi-aero rim with an inner width of 19 to 20mm and an outer width of 23 to 25mm? Also a rim that is “tubeless ready” would be a better choice as well. I love my A23’s, and am stoked about the Quill rim from Velocity that is rim brake, wider profile and tubeless compatible. I believe the Quill would be a bit lighter than the Deep V’s.
I’ve heard mediocre reviews on the ride of the Deep V’s other than their durability. If you want more grip, handling, road feel but still durable - there are certainly more fun (and only slightly less safe) choices out there. Another option would be the HED Belgium Plus - it has fantastic quality control and checks all the boxes.
thanks for the insight. I actually love those HED rims but only 32 drillings scared me away. I will go back and check out the rims again. Really thank you. This thread has been very informative
#47
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@cyccommute
Here is where I am at:
Velocity 36h rims, I think the model is the v or deep v or something like that. 36h, rear 32h front. I a going with Hope hubs because I can get red, I want red and I can get the drillings I like. I will take your spoke recommendation and use the dt alpine III spokes.
Only thing I have not decided on is the spoke nipples, going for black. Should I use brass or alloy version?
Here is where I am at:
Velocity 36h rims, I think the model is the v or deep v or something like that. 36h, rear 32h front. I a going with Hope hubs because I can get red, I want red and I can get the drillings I like. I will take your spoke recommendation and use the dt alpine III spokes.
Only thing I have not decided on is the spoke nipples, going for black. Should I use brass or alloy version?
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#48
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‘Are you sure you want the “Deep V” rims. Sure these were recommended for “Clyde” riders for many years as the go-to choice. The thing is, current designs have moved on. The Deep V’s I believe still only have an internal width of, say -17mm which is going to limit your future tire choices. Why not go with a semi-aero rim with an inner width of 19 to 20mm and an outer width of 23 to 25mm? Also a rim that is “tubeless ready” would be a better choice as well. I love my A23’s, and am stoked about the Quill rim from Velocity that is rim brake, wider profile and tubeless compatible. I believe the Quill would be a bit lighter than the Deep V’s.
I’ve heard mediocre reviews on the ride of the Deep V’s other than their durability. If you want more grip, handling, road feel but still durable - there are certainly more fun (and only slightly less safe) choices out there. Another option would be the HED Belgium Plus - it has fantastic quality control and checks all the boxes.
The Deep-V has an internal width of 14mm. The A23 has an external width of 23mm and an internal width of 18mm.
But there is too much made of tire width and rim width. The chart in this article from Mavic offers a much wider range of tire sizes then the chart that is often linked to. It’s much more in line with what I have experienced with tires on narrow rims. I run 55mm tires on 17mm rims with regularity and with no downside that I’ve experienced.
Finally, I think that the A23, especially with an off-centered rear, would be an excellent choice but I also have Deep-Vs on my touring bike. I haven’t experienced any handling issue with those rims.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#49
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
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I ride Dura Ace 7700 nine speed hubs 36 rear and 32 front with the lighter weight DT Swiss butted spokes on A23 polished rims. I get a lot of compliments on the wheels - mainly how shiny and “old school cool” they are. They roll plenty fast and work great with 700x25 tires with Vittoria latex tubes....
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,682
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1163 Post(s)
Liked 442 Times
in
315 Posts
The Deep-V has an internal width of 14mm. The A23 has an external width of 23mm and an internal width of 18mm.
But there is too much made of tire width and rim width. The chart in this article from Mavic offers a much wider range of tire sizes then the chart that is often linked to. It’s much more in line with what I have experienced with tires on narrow rims. I run 55mm tires on 17mm rims with regularity and with no downside that I’ve experienced.
Finally, I think that the A23, especially with an off-centered rear, would be an excellent choice but I also have Deep-Vs on my touring bike. I haven’t experienced any handling issue with those rims.