akohekohe

I don`t have a tool for this type of slotted nut. The nut is 28mm in diameter. This is not from a bicycle but from a pedal powered kayak. Even though it is not from a bicycle I figure one or more of you will know which tool to use. In addition to describing the tool it would be helpful if you could direct me to where I can purchase one. Thanks for your help!

Bill Kapaun

You might try lightly tapping it with a hammer & brass drift.
Alternate sides. It "might" go very easy.

Crankycrank

Here are some pics of various bike tools that may work as long as they're the right size. https://www.google.com/search?q=bott...11434233602104 I also saw an article to convert a pair of channel lock pliers or vice grips to one of the best tools for this type of lock ring I've seen. https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Lockring-Pliers/

dedhed

How long is the shaft? A piece of galvanized pipe cut/ground to fit the grooves would probably work as well as a lock ring spanner. Maybe even a basin wrench if it isn't too tight.

Something like this but pipe not a socket
https://blacklabadventures.com/2012/...removal-tools/

dsbrantjr

The channel lock mod will work or Google "hook spanner" , if the hammer-and-drift approach does not work. Although the part does not look corroded, I would apply some Kano Kroil or PB Blaster penetrant anyway.

MudPie

It's hard to judge the how far the nut is recessed with respect to the gear, but something like this could work.

https://www.parktool.com/product/adjustable-spanner-spa-6?category=Crank%20%26%20Bottom%20Bracket
or
https://www.parktool.com/product/pin...ttom%20Bracket


Note, you might not be able to apply a lot of force with these spanner wrenches, as the pins could slip out.

If you can get dimensions of the slots and their spacing, you might be able to write Park Tool and ask them. In my experience, they're very responsive to inquiries.

Andrew R Stewart 

Not mentioned is whether the system's manufacturer has been contacted or offers any service related aftermarket help. Andy

akohekohe

Thanks. I think this will work. The slots have a width of 2.5 mm and the pins on the park spanner are 2.2mm. The nut is far enough above the gear to have enough clearance to work. The only issue I'm not sure of is whether or not the spanner will clear the axle when opened to fit the slots. The pins should be 24 mm apart and be able to clear a 17mm diameter axle. I took your advice and put this question to Park. I'm not too worried about the pins slipping out. I can get a very strong hold on the axle with my vice so I should be able to hold the pins in the slots with one hand while turning the spanner with the other.

solman

I would try a properly sized hammer and punch first as often these are not set up very tight. Check the thread orientation first to make sure if it's a standard or LH thread. Then proceed to give a few shots. If it doesn't budge with reasonable effort (don't distort the slots) you will have to research the proper tool. Also you can try with a bent needle nose plier if you have one.
Good luck.

akohekohe

Park tools got back to me and the SPA-6 spanner does not have enough clearance to fit over the axle and still get the pins in the slots. They suggested the SPA-2 instead but I didn't think that had enough strength to produce the necessary torque so I decided to make my own tool from stuff I had lying around. I found a two foot x 1.5 inch x 1/8 of an inch aluminum bar left over from a larger piece I used for something else. I drilled a 3/4 inch hole in it which was large enough to go over the axle with a little room to spare. I then drilled two holes 3mm from opposite sides of the hole. I then tapped the holes and screwed a 4mm bolt in each one. Cut the screws so they only stuck out from the aluminum bar 5mm and then filed them down on two sides so they would fit into the slots. Tool works really well and I can generate quite a bit of torque.

The nut was actually not very tight. I didn't expect it was - people have had a lot of trouble with these nuts coming loose. I had taken it to the dealer I had bought it from when it started making noise. He fixed it and said the nut had come loose. Well, I decided I had better learn how to service it and bought the tool I needed to disassemble the the propeller mechanism. I wanted to take the nut off and put some lock tight on the threads. When I opened it up and saw the nut I didn't have a tool to loosen it and hence my post here.

The nut was not very tight and was gouged a bit so I suspect the dealer used channel lock pliers to tighten the nut (not ones that were modified to make it into a spanner tool either). So, I am glad I learned how to do it myself - I'm sure it would have come loose again if I hadn't got in there and really tightened it down and added the lock tight - I'm still going to check it every so often just to make sure it doesn't come loose again.

Anyway, thanks for the help. Although I didn't do what anyone said, your suggestions got me to think about making my own tool and that was a help.

MudPie

That's great that you made a custom tool for it. I hope the nut stays tight, but then again, I'm sure there is great satisfaction in using the tool!

dedhed

loctite or is there room for a star washer?

akohekohe

Yes, there is plenty of room for a star washer - it is just a question of getting one the right size.