Flat bars for touring bikes
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Flat bars for touring bikes
What is the downside to having flat bar (with associated shifters, etc) retrofitted onto a new Trek 520 or REI COOP touring bike?
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Bikes designed for drop bars have shorter top tubes than bikes designed for flat bars. You will be in an even more upright position. You can compensate some by using a longer stem unless of course you like the new position. I have done this conversion multiple times and I like it.
Some will argue that you lose multiple hand positions but I have always felt this point is overrated. I do fine with just flat bars and my hands don't suffer. YMMV. You can always add bar ends for more hand positions.
The beauty is if you don't like it you can always change it back.
Some will argue that you lose multiple hand positions but I have always felt this point is overrated. I do fine with just flat bars and my hands don't suffer. YMMV. You can always add bar ends for more hand positions.
The beauty is if you don't like it you can always change it back.
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You won't be able to get as low going long distances in wind,and will be slower because of it but you might not be going real fast loaded down anyway. I would ride fine on flats touring but I wouldn't buy a new bike and have it fitted out. I would find a good used one in great shape. I would rather have an older 520 anyway because the new one has an new Aluminum fork. You sort of need to decide of you want a fast road oriented touring bike -drop bars,or a likely slower,more relaxed bike,not that drops can't be very comfortable but not usually for new cyclists.
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When you say flat bars, do you mean a straight one? I've tried those and they're horribly uncomfortable. You might try swept bars, like Velo-Orange's Tourist, Porteur or Granola bars. They put your hands and arms in a more natural position and you can still throw on aero bars for more positions. I adore my Porteur bar, so I may be biased.
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#8
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Should be a few new touring bikes that are designed with flatbars. I might Frankenstein a older bike and deal with the issues but not a new bike if can avoid in first place.
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Converting a new bike is going to be costly. For example, the Trek 520 uses brifters which will not work on a flat bar, you would need new shifters and compatible brake levers. along with the cost of the bar and stem.
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Yes, the cost of retrofitting is the big downside. It seems like it would be easy enough to get a flat bar touring bike to start with; the Euro brands are sick with ‘em, which they call trekking bikes. Something like the Salsa Marrakesh is an example of a flat bar price comp for the 520.
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1) Cost - it isn't cost effective to remove and replace the brake and shift controls, recabling the shifters and likely the brake levers, replacing the stem, replacing the handlebar and adding grips and possibly end extensions...
2) Aerodynamics - wind resistance matters, particularly on a tourer that's used for touring. Across parts of the US, the winds are relentless. The tuck afforded by drop bars is difficult to achieve without some unusual flat bar downward and rearward extensions.
3) Comfort - subjectively, I've never, ever been as comfortable on a flat bar for long periods of time (talking greater than 4-6 hours) than as on a drop-barred bike. Never. On drop bar bikes, longer saddle times are possible (for me). Others will argue this.
4) Geometry - as has been mentioned, most traditional road frames are not designed with flat bars in mind. So, you'll be using the stem to correct for what will put your torso at the right angle and you hands at the optimal reach. This is separate from cost (1), as the answer may take several iterations to solve to your satisfaction.
If you want a flat bar bike, then buy one to begin with.
2) Aerodynamics - wind resistance matters, particularly on a tourer that's used for touring. Across parts of the US, the winds are relentless. The tuck afforded by drop bars is difficult to achieve without some unusual flat bar downward and rearward extensions.
3) Comfort - subjectively, I've never, ever been as comfortable on a flat bar for long periods of time (talking greater than 4-6 hours) than as on a drop-barred bike. Never. On drop bar bikes, longer saddle times are possible (for me). Others will argue this.
4) Geometry - as has been mentioned, most traditional road frames are not designed with flat bars in mind. So, you'll be using the stem to correct for what will put your torso at the right angle and you hands at the optimal reach. This is separate from cost (1), as the answer may take several iterations to solve to your satisfaction.
If you want a flat bar bike, then buy one to begin with.
Last edited by Phil_gretz; 06-11-20 at 06:47 AM.
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4) Geometry - as has been mentioned, most traditional road frames are not designed with [flat] bars in mind. So, you'll be using the stem to correct for what will put your torso at the right angle and you hands at the optimal reach. This is separate from cost (1), as the answer may take several iterations to solve to your satisfaction.
I do not agree there is any necessary difference in geometry for flat or drop bars. There is as much diversity in drop bar geometries as there is in flat bar geometries, and smart buyers will need to choose the frame that best serves them regardless of bar configuration.
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Ergon GR series grip/ bar ends the 2 shortest 3,4, .. 5 longest, with a hook..
broad grip surface better than a round one
not mine.
broad grip surface better than a round one
not mine.
Last edited by fietsbob; 06-10-20 at 05:26 PM.
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When you say flat bars, do you mean a straight one? I've tried those and they're horribly uncomfortable. You might try swept bars, like Velo-Orange's Tourist, Porteur or Granola bars. They put your hands and arms in a more natural position and you can still throw on aero bars for more positions. I adore my Porteur bar, so I may be biased.
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I'm assuming you're not a troll, so my question is, why are you thinking about flat bars? If you don't like the bent over position, you can raise the stem to make your drop bars more upright and comfortable. If it's something else, please tell us so we can better help you.
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I'm assuming you're not a troll, so my question is, why are you thinking about flat bars? If you don't like the bent over position, you can raise the stem to make your drop bars more upright and comfortable. If it's something else, please tell us so we can better help you.
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I'm assuming you're not a troll, so my question is, why are you thinking about flat bars? If you don't like the bent over position, you can raise the stem to make your drop bars more upright and comfortable. If it's something else, please tell us so we can better help you.
Do you have any experience building up bikes, or have you only ridden showroom stock stuff?
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For reference, this is my heart bike.
Great Ghu, it's NDS! Horror!
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I understand that drops don't have to be aero, but the popular perception is that that's how drop bar bikes have to be ridden; that's why I told the OP that he could raise the stem. I have an old Trek Multitrack that I will, one of these days, build with a V-O Nuveau Randonneur bar. It's only the last couple of years that I came to realize that the racing position is for racers, and the rest of us can ride more upright. Or as I like to put it, ride your own ride!
I run all of my bars pretty low, including my flat bar bikes, for example:
and
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