epnnf

(sorry for my ignorance)
I thought I'd give the Kona a slight upgrade w/new pedals. Sides, existing pedals are the wrong color I replaced the right (drive side) pedal; a lil tighter than I was expecting, but np. To get the left side off, we all know to act like you're tightening to remove. That is, turn CW to remove. Over a period of an hour: used two types of w d 40 wannabe, tap the area, used several configurations of tools to get more leverage, cranked really hard. Wouldn't budge. Thought about removing crankarm, then realized you need a special tool to do that (of course I don't have). Yes, I could take it to the shop, but would have to wait 2 weeks. FWIW, I am 65yo, working alone. Anything else I can do?

Bill Kapaun

Try real penetrating oil.

ridelikeaturtle

If you're using a proper pedal wrench, and you're 100% certain you're going in the correct direction (it sounds like you are), you could bash the wrench with a hammer (tapping down is always better than up), maybe the shock will make it budge.

Of course, being very careful not to bash anything else.

epnnf

umm, such as?

Iride01 

The drive side pedal is right threaded or normal threads. Are you using a open end wrench or a hex key from the other side? With an open end wrench, you'd loosen it in the normal direction, counter clockwise (lefty loosey, righty tighty) for normal threads. If you are using a hex key and looking at the back side of the crank arm while you turn it, then you'd rotate it as if you were tightening it, or clockwise.

I don't like to use a hex key when high torque is involved. I've had too many setscrews and bolts with socket head caps that are fully counter sunk get a crack in them and when trying the loosen them. The crack opens and grabs the side of the hole and won't let the bolt move. Pedals seem to have more material between the socket and edge so maybe not as much of a problem with them., but if I have flats on the pedals, I'm using those with a open end wrench.


Edit:
Okay, think reverse of what I said since apparently I misread and thought it was the drive side that was your issue.

cxwrench

Are you saying your local shop would make you wait 2 weeks to remove a pedal? That's crazy...call them and ask. We've been 1-3 weeks backed up for ages and still do tons of while-you-wait things for people and removing a pedal is one of them.

Iride01 

Another way to think of it is no matter whether you are using a hex key or a wrench, then to loosen either side you always rotate the tool toward the back of the bike. Works for either side, no matter the viewpoint or perspective as long as both you and the bike are right side up....................... as long as you don't have some odd ball crankarms and pedals from the "Vintage" days.

ClydeClydeson

Put a 'cheater bar' on the end of your pedal wrench, tie the opposite crankarm to the chainstay with an old toe clip or other sturdy tie-down.

mack_turtle

put your full body weight into it like this

crankholio

How long is your pedal wrench? Give the Park PW-4 a try if you're looking for a tool upgrade.

Bill Kapaun

Kroil, Liquid Wrench or anything that is sold as a PO and not a jack of all oils.
I've heard Kroil is one of the best, but I use LW. Simply because it comes in a squeeze bottle that is easy to transfer to a hypo when you need 1/2 drop instead of spraying a good portion of the bike.
Lay the bike on its side and apply 2-4 drops & let soak for a WHILE. 20-30 minutes. (on planned work, I'll start as much as 2 days early for fixed BB cups)
Tap around the joint with something like a small wrench to "ring" the joint. That helps w/ the capillary action. Repeat a time or 2.

epnnf

no flats on the pedals; must use 6mm hex key.
I did all the above yesterday. Today, my arms are slightly sore, so I rode my Masi & let the penetrating oil soak in on the Kona. Sprayed it once more; will try again tmrw.

crankholio

If I only had that option, I'd just use a 6mm allen socket on an impact wrench.

dsbrantjr

Kano Kroil®is best followed by PB Blaster® IME

Iride01 

Have you had this since new and know the history well? No chance someone put a permanent thread locker on it is there? Don't know why they'd only do one though.

Trakhak

Removal of pedals using an Allen wrench/hex wrench can be tricky. I'd stick a long seatpost or similar or longer tube over the hex wrench and then figure out the easiest way to secure the drive side crank arm.

If you can't come up with something at home and the bike shops in your area are backed up, maybe call your auto mechanic and ask for help. Any auto mechanic would likely find the problem of a stuck pedal trivially easy to overcome.

gsa103

Hex bit attached to a cordless impact driver.

epnnf

umm, I don't have an impact driver.
Also, I just found a 2' long piece of tubing from a light fixture. Should work great; will try tmrw.
I am using pb blaster.
I did not put existing pedals on bike, but right side came off ok, so I would hope left would be same.
ty for all replies

aggiegrads

And please, please make sure that you are not pushing or pulling towards the chainring. When the joint finally breaks (or the wrench does) your knuckles should be clear of the chainring.

Put the chain on the large ring for extra safety.

Although I haven't used it, many here swear by a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone as a penetrating oil.

dsbrantjr

I put a shop rag over the chain ring and chain for extra busted knuckle protection.

aggiegrads

I actually have a wrench that is longer than pedal arm+ chain ring radius. In manufacturing and occupational safety, this would be referred to as an "engineering control" as opposed to an "administrative control".

Elimination would be removing the chainring.
Substitution would be running 1x or adding a bashguard
Engineering controls would be only having a long wrench available
Administrative control would be "watch out" or "make sure the hand pushes away from the chainring".
PPE would be: "Here is a pair of gloves, you'll thank me later".


Of course, at the end of the day, the OP is working on his left side crank arm, so the only thing he needs to protect himself from is the crank arm itself, or a pinch hazard.

Davespix

I keep a 4 foot section of chain link fence pipe In the garage. Slide it over any tool and increase your leverage.

Iride01 

You could take the crank arm off so you can get everything in a better position for you deal with it. If you want to hold it in a vice, then wrap an old inner tube or just a rag around it if you are worried about the finish.

Or, if you truly don't care about the pedal, then if you can get it in the vice jaws in a position for them to hold the spindle securly, then you can just use the crank arm as your cheater.

JohnDThompson 

+1 this. Even better if you remove the arm and clamp it in a bench-mounted vise to remove the stubborn pedal.

OP says he doesn't have the tool to remove the arm, doesn't want to wait two weeks for the LBS to do the job, and the problem with the current pedals is that they are the wrong color. Given all that, I'd order the crank remover, find a piece of pipe that can slip over the wrench, and keep riding the current pedals until all the needed tools are available.

Phil_gretz

The OP needs to develop a list of necessary tools going forward.

1) Crank puller
2) Impact driver
3) ...