Suspension Seatpost Review - Satori Animaris VS. Suntour SP12-NCX for 200LB+ Riders..
#1
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
Suspension Seatpost Review - Satori Animaris VS. Suntour SP12-NCX for 200LB+ Riders..
Having the opportunity to have tested both a fair amount, I thought I should put together a review on these two pieces of equipment for those of you who may be interested in buying a shock absorbing seatpost, or may have never even heard of these in the first place. I weigh about 225LB, and while that's not on the extreme side, its certainly enough to bend a rear wheel rather easily in the city. This was the main reason which motivated me to try one of these out. Obviously, the smooth ride quality will be nice, so I figured, why not?
Overall, what they both have in common, is that they make riding my bike far more enjoyable. You can feel the suspension working even as you go over the tiniest imperfections. They do a good job at removing the majority of shock from major bumps, without feeling bouncy for the most part. It's a very natural feel. Both feel very well made. Ultimately, if you are a heavier rider, you will want to go for the Satori. Anyone 190LB or less will be better off with the Suntour. More on this below..:
Satori Animaris:
- Comes with built in protective rubber cover (Suntour has a neoprene sleeve sold separately)
- Mechanism does not require regular oiling/servicing
- You can easily make spring preload adjustments (by tightening an allen hex bolt) Without needing to take the seatpost out of your bike
- The stock spring is better suited to 200LB+ riders. It bounced around far less and was better behaved over bumps under my weight.
- Makes up for less suspension travel by having a nice, soft bump stop at the bottom, whenever you do max out the suspension travel
SR Suntour SP12 NCX:
- Offers an extra CM of suspension travel
- A little bit heavier
- You need to take the seatpost out of your bike to make any preload adjustments. Not so convenient if your seattube does not have a quick release lever, or you regularly carry a backpack and wish to make on the fly spring tension adjustments.
- The stock spring is better suited for the majority of typical rider weights (They claim 140-180LB, i'd say the spring is better suited for the upper end of that range)
So, while the extra CM of travel definitely helped, and the spring does more or less work fine even if you are noticeably heavier than 180LB. However, I do find that it bounces around a little bit too much and tends to bottom out fairly easily. But for the most part it still works fantastic. Whereas I used to cautiously slow down for every single bump and try to approach bumps at a more gentle angle, I can now go full speed into every single obstacle, simply lift up the front of my bike, and let the seat post deal with the impact dealt to the rear rim.
Overall, what they both have in common, is that they make riding my bike far more enjoyable. You can feel the suspension working even as you go over the tiniest imperfections. They do a good job at removing the majority of shock from major bumps, without feeling bouncy for the most part. It's a very natural feel. Both feel very well made. Ultimately, if you are a heavier rider, you will want to go for the Satori. Anyone 190LB or less will be better off with the Suntour. More on this below..:
Satori Animaris:
- Comes with built in protective rubber cover (Suntour has a neoprene sleeve sold separately)
- Mechanism does not require regular oiling/servicing
- You can easily make spring preload adjustments (by tightening an allen hex bolt) Without needing to take the seatpost out of your bike
- The stock spring is better suited to 200LB+ riders. It bounced around far less and was better behaved over bumps under my weight.
- Makes up for less suspension travel by having a nice, soft bump stop at the bottom, whenever you do max out the suspension travel
SR Suntour SP12 NCX:
- Offers an extra CM of suspension travel
- A little bit heavier
- You need to take the seatpost out of your bike to make any preload adjustments. Not so convenient if your seattube does not have a quick release lever, or you regularly carry a backpack and wish to make on the fly spring tension adjustments.
- The stock spring is better suited for the majority of typical rider weights (They claim 140-180LB, i'd say the spring is better suited for the upper end of that range)
So, while the extra CM of travel definitely helped, and the spring does more or less work fine even if you are noticeably heavier than 180LB. However, I do find that it bounces around a little bit too much and tends to bottom out fairly easily. But for the most part it still works fantastic. Whereas I used to cautiously slow down for every single bump and try to approach bumps at a more gentle angle, I can now go full speed into every single obstacle, simply lift up the front of my bike, and let the seat post deal with the impact dealt to the rear rim.
Likes For Moisture:
#2
Expired Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TN
Posts: 11,498
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3648 Post(s)
Liked 5,380 Times
in
2,731 Posts
How does a suspension seatpost protect the rear wheel? Simple terms please, I have little mastery of physics.
Likes For shelbyfv:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Eastern VA
Posts: 1,716
Bikes: 2022 Fuel EX 8, 2021 Domane SL6, Black Beta (Nashbar frame), 2004 Trek 1000C for the trainer
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 265 Post(s)
Liked 447 Times
in
266 Posts
Does not reduce the static weight. Reduces the shock load. Think of it like if you took a brick and dropped it on your bare foot. May break a bone. Compare this to dropping the same brick on your foot but put a piece of say 2 inch thick soft rubber over your foot first. The rubber pad absorbs the impact. Will still hurt but not as bad. It’s also like standing over a pot hole. Your legs are the springs.
Likes For biker128pedal:
#5
Dirty Heathen
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Posts: 2,182
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 889 Post(s)
Liked 906 Times
in
534 Posts
Learn how to get your shift your weight off the saddle and use your legs to “ride light”. Works for riders of almost any weight, and can be moved from bike to bike without tools.
Likes For Ironfish653:
#6
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,452
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4328 Post(s)
Liked 3,949 Times
in
2,641 Posts
I would recommend going for the Kinekt seatpost it is probably the finest of the isolation based seatposts.
If you are on the larger side:
https://cirruscycles.com/products/kinekt-2-1-xl2
Sure other stuff is cheaper but having two springs and adjustable preload is really nice and having something for heavier riders is handy. Also the carbon option for the lighter ones is great.
The SRs seatpost does not allow you to cut it down, not sure about the Satori but that would be a deal breaker for me if I was a shorter rider or needed to cut down my post for other reasons.
If you are on the larger side:
https://cirruscycles.com/products/kinekt-2-1-xl2
Sure other stuff is cheaper but having two springs and adjustable preload is really nice and having something for heavier riders is handy. Also the carbon option for the lighter ones is great.
The SRs seatpost does not allow you to cut it down, not sure about the Satori but that would be a deal breaker for me if I was a shorter rider or needed to cut down my post for other reasons.
#7
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
If you didn't see a pothole and went over it without lifting your butt off the saddle, the seat suspension will spread the impact energy over a longer period of time (resulting to less force) so hopefully, the reduced force is less than the force it takes to bend the rims or cause pinch flat.
If without seat suspension the impact energy will be absorbed in a much shorter time resulting to greater force which may exceed wheel limits and cause bent rim or pinch flats. It will also cause great discomfort or even pain to the rider.
Additionally, if the force is strong enough, it can also bend your seatpost. So yes, seat suspension helps. I use one. It's more relaxing not having to swerve or brake around every crack or pothole in the road as you go downhill. That's safer too.
If without seat suspension the impact energy will be absorbed in a much shorter time resulting to greater force which may exceed wheel limits and cause bent rim or pinch flats. It will also cause great discomfort or even pain to the rider.
Additionally, if the force is strong enough, it can also bend your seatpost. So yes, seat suspension helps. I use one. It's more relaxing not having to swerve or brake around every crack or pothole in the road as you go downhill. That's safer too.
On the plus side, the Satori has such a plush bump stop once the spring reaches its maximum travel, that i must admit it works fantastic over anything but the very worst of terrain.
As for the Suntour, the 5cm of travel works so well, that my bike essentially feels like a full suspension bike while still allowing the stiffness of the hardtail frame itself to shine during stints of hard pedaling. Its an ideal tradeoff.
Likes For Moisture:
#8
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
I would recommend going for the Kinekt seatpost it is probably the finest of the isolation based seatposts.
If you are on the larger side:
https://cirruscycles.com/products/kinekt-2-1-xl2
Sure other stuff is cheaper but having two springs and adjustable preload is really nice and having something for heavier riders is handy. Also the carbon option for the lighter ones is great.
The SRs seatpost does not allow you to cut it down, not sure about the Satori but that would be a deal breaker for me if I was a shorter rider or needed to cut down my post for other reasons.
If you are on the larger side:
https://cirruscycles.com/products/kinekt-2-1-xl2
Sure other stuff is cheaper but having two springs and adjustable preload is really nice and having something for heavier riders is handy. Also the carbon option for the lighter ones is great.
The SRs seatpost does not allow you to cut it down, not sure about the Satori but that would be a deal breaker for me if I was a shorter rider or needed to cut down my post for other reasons.
The kinect is lighter, even the aluminum one. But it has less overall travel.
I don't see why you'd need to cut your seat post. Only problem I see is using these seatposts on a frame which is large enough to negate the need for raising your seat up. In that case you're SOL because the suspension part needs about 5-6cm of space between the saddke and top of the seat tube.
#9
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,452
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4328 Post(s)
Liked 3,949 Times
in
2,641 Posts
Thats an important skill to familiarize yourself with at any rate, especially on the trails. But riding around town, especially on a frame which promotes pedalling in the comfortable saddle you have mounted, makes more sense for me to just lift the front axle up like a half added bunny hop and let the seatpost deal with the impact about to be dealt to the rear rim. It makes things much faster versus the way i must approach rim bending bumps without any suspension.
Both the satori and suntour have adjustable preload. This kinect one looks nice, but it's almost twice as expensive. Im interested in seeing it compared to the cane creek thudbuster.
The kinect is lighter, even the aluminum one. But it has less overall travel.
I don't see why you'd need to cut your seat post. Only problem I see is using these seatposts on a frame which is large enough to negate the need for raising your seat up. In that case you're SOL because the suspension part needs about 5-6cm of space between the saddke and top of the seat tube.
Both the satori and suntour have adjustable preload. This kinect one looks nice, but it's almost twice as expensive. Im interested in seeing it compared to the cane creek thudbuster.
The kinect is lighter, even the aluminum one. But it has less overall travel.
I don't see why you'd need to cut your seat post. Only problem I see is using these seatposts on a frame which is large enough to negate the need for raising your seat up. In that case you're SOL because the suspension part needs about 5-6cm of space between the saddke and top of the seat tube.
Thudbuster is elastomer based so it is OK but honestly not worth it and I love Cane Creek and am a big supporter and user of their products!
Kinekt does cost more initially but is a higher quality post with replaceable springs and pretty solid design. In the 200+ Kinekts I have sold I have only needed to warranty one (and really it was a customer destroying it themselves but it was new). There will generally always be cheaper stuff but I want something with quality and good design. Also it shouldn't look too horrid.
If I need more travel I probably want a full suspension mountain bike but to tame rough streets and paths the Kinekt is the finest. Truthfully I didn't like it when I first saw it but when I first rode the gen2 version I was sold in one test ride, I was slamming into potholes at high speed and it was taking them like a champ.
#10
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
Yes but the Adjustable preload for the SRs post is at the bottom of the post. Working in the industry and have a lot of short people come in the shop cutting down a post can be quite handy. Some bikes come with a longer post or we tend to buy the posts in the longer length because they don't cost more and it is one less SKU to carry.
Thudbuster is elastomer based so it is OK but honestly not worth it and I love Cane Creek and am a big supporter and user of their products!
Kinekt does cost more initially but is a higher quality post with replaceable springs and pretty solid design. In the 200+ Kinekts I have sold I have only needed to warranty one (and really it was a customer destroying it themselves but it was new). There will generally always be cheaper stuff but I want something with quality and good design. Also it shouldn't look too horrid.
If I need more travel I probably want a full suspension mountain bike but to tame rough streets and paths the Kinekt is the finest. Truthfully I didn't like it when I first saw it but when I first rode the gen2 version I was sold in one test ride, I was slamming into potholes at high speed and it was taking them like a champ.
Thudbuster is elastomer based so it is OK but honestly not worth it and I love Cane Creek and am a big supporter and user of their products!
Kinekt does cost more initially but is a higher quality post with replaceable springs and pretty solid design. In the 200+ Kinekts I have sold I have only needed to warranty one (and really it was a customer destroying it themselves but it was new). There will generally always be cheaper stuff but I want something with quality and good design. Also it shouldn't look too horrid.
If I need more travel I probably want a full suspension mountain bike but to tame rough streets and paths the Kinekt is the finest. Truthfully I didn't like it when I first saw it but when I first rode the gen2 version I was sold in one test ride, I was slamming into potholes at high speed and it was taking them like a champ.
#11
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,452
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4328 Post(s)
Liked 3,949 Times
in
2,641 Posts
I haven't tried it but it looks pretty hideous not that any of the others look great but that one is aesthetically displeasing. It also looks like springs are not replaceable so my guess it is for one smaller range of riders and others will have something really bouncy or really hard (even with adjustment).
But yeah it is certainly cheap so if price is the decider this is probably the one to go for.
But yeah it is certainly cheap so if price is the decider this is probably the one to go for.
#12
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 394
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 237 Post(s)
Liked 177 Times
in
95 Posts
Until recently I weighed a little over 220 lbs. I rode several thousand miles a year on lightweight carbon-framed road bikes, and never had any wheel damage. I guess I'm just lucky, but I also am unable to figure out how people don't see potholes; I just don't have too many jarring events on a bike. I don't think I'm going to a 12-spoke wheelset any time soon, but are today's materials really unable to easily handle riders over 200 lbs? Hard to imagine. I'm far from the heaviest person on 'nice' bikes in my community.
Are all of these MAMILs keeping the wheelmakers of the world in business?
Are all of these MAMILs keeping the wheelmakers of the world in business?
#13
Dirty Heathen
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Posts: 2,182
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 889 Post(s)
Liked 906 Times
in
534 Posts
Until recently I weighed a little over 220 lbs. I rode several thousand miles a year on lightweight carbon-framed road bikes, and never had any wheel damage. I guess I'm just lucky, but I also am unable to figure out how people don't see potholes; I just don't have too many jarring events on a bike. I don't think I'm going to a 12-spoke wheelset any time soon, but are today's materials really unable to easily handle riders over 200 lbs? Hard to imagine. I'm far from the heaviest person on 'nice' bikes in my community.
I rode BMX in the 80s, XC in the 90s and had a big piece of my adult life with a motorcycle as my primary vehicle. You learn to look way up the road for hazards, so you have the most time to adjust for them, with the least amount of input ( which can be important at highway speeds)
Also a lot of riders are accustomed to leaving their full weight dead on the saddle, so when they do hit that hazard, the rear wheel takes the full impact. Suspension seatposts only reinforce this practice. They’re good for reducing road noise, but not hitting bumps.
Learning how to use your legs to actively support your weight is one of the fundamental concepts that underpins even the most basic active bike handling skills.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,174
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 381 Post(s)
Liked 145 Times
in
93 Posts
Looks like it has been ?upgraded. It's more than double the weight of the cane creek eeSilk but less than half the price ; ).
https://www.satoribike.com/pro.php?m...03&cid=16&f=14
https://www.satoribike.com/pro.php?m...03&cid=16&f=14
#15
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
I haven't tried it but it looks pretty hideous not that any of the others look great but that one is aesthetically displeasing. It also looks like springs are not replaceable so my guess it is for one smaller range of riders and others will have something really bouncy or really hard (even with adjustment).
But yeah it is certainly cheap so if price is the decider this is probably the one to go for.
But yeah it is certainly cheap so if price is the decider this is probably the one to go for.
Until recently I weighed a little over 220 lbs. I rode several thousand miles a year on lightweight carbon-framed road bikes, and never had any wheel damage. I guess I'm just lucky, but I also am unable to figure out how people don't see potholes; I just don't have too many jarring events on a bike. I don't think I'm going to a 12-spoke wheelset any time soon, but are today's materials really unable to easily handle riders over 200 lbs? Hard to imagine. I'm far from the heaviest person on 'nice' bikes in my community.
Are all of these MAMILs keeping the wheelmakers of the world in business?
Are all of these MAMILs keeping the wheelmakers of the world in business?
#16
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 394
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 237 Post(s)
Liked 177 Times
in
95 Posts
I ride roads that have cracks, potholes, and (biggest issue here) a LOT of debris if there is a bike lane. I am always picking my line well in advance, and while I'm not Peter Sagan, I can steer between pebbles. I don't think that's exceptional - doesn't everyone do this?
Moisture I have bunny-hopped a small curb, but never ride over them? I am not being smarmy - I see lots of riders who seem just like me: they avoid road hazards; don't ride over curbs. I have some ride partners but avoid group rides and purposefully try to ride alone a lot, and so: I guess I'm surprised by the idea of intense shocks for road bikes.
But I also feel (and it's just a guess, I haven't done any scientific investigation) that wheels have to be experiencing improvement parallel to the improvements elsewhere - I am more familiar with climbing gear until about five years ago, and there is no comparison between late 80's gear and gear from 2010. Lighter, stronger, better-engineered. Aren't bike wheels stronger, better, now?
cubewheels Is this rainy, pothole-filled MTB route the same one that gave you cause to tell me what I don't understand about riding a road bike in a desert, half a world away, last week? Trying to picture where you ride: a fascinating world of deserts, puddles, dunes and potholes, road bikes that become MTB's ... do you have a YouTube channel?
Moisture I have bunny-hopped a small curb, but never ride over them? I am not being smarmy - I see lots of riders who seem just like me: they avoid road hazards; don't ride over curbs. I have some ride partners but avoid group rides and purposefully try to ride alone a lot, and so: I guess I'm surprised by the idea of intense shocks for road bikes.
But I also feel (and it's just a guess, I haven't done any scientific investigation) that wheels have to be experiencing improvement parallel to the improvements elsewhere - I am more familiar with climbing gear until about five years ago, and there is no comparison between late 80's gear and gear from 2010. Lighter, stronger, better-engineered. Aren't bike wheels stronger, better, now?
cubewheels Is this rainy, pothole-filled MTB route the same one that gave you cause to tell me what I don't understand about riding a road bike in a desert, half a world away, last week? Trying to picture where you ride: a fascinating world of deserts, puddles, dunes and potholes, road bikes that become MTB's ... do you have a YouTube channel?
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 1,820
Bikes: 1996 Trek 970 ZX Single Track 2x11
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 614 Post(s)
Liked 564 Times
in
428 Posts
Now, on daylight rides with little to no traffic, where my attention is on the clearly-visible segment of the road before me, it's almost always easy to pick a way around a minor impediment, bad seam, pothole, whatever. Just not so simple to do, when the conditions are otherwise. At least, not around here with the many, um, less-than-well-tended road surfaces I get to deal with.
#19
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
You still are failing as far as contribution is concerned. In fact, you're doing the opposite.
#20
Dirty Heathen
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Posts: 2,182
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 889 Post(s)
Liked 906 Times
in
534 Posts
I’ve even been known to trail ride the 32mm 70s vintage ‘path-bike’ and not bent rims.
It helps to get your butt off the saddle and actively support your weight during moves like that. Your suspension seat might make your backside feel better, but it’s not doing your bike any favors. There’s an art to being a big guy who rides hard, and doesn’t beat up his gear.
My last bent MTB rim involved a high-speed off-course excursion and a couple trees.
Of course, cheap bikes have notoriously flimsy wheels, and if that’s what you’re used to, then I can see how that’s what you’d expect.
Last edited by Ironfish653; 10-08-20 at 11:04 AM.
Likes For Thomas15:
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Yolo County, West Sacramento CA
Posts: 517
Bikes: Modified 26 inch frame Schwinn Varsity with 700c wheels and 10 speed cassette hub. Ryan Vanguard recumbent. 67cm 27"x1 1/4" Schwinn Sports Tourer from the 1980's. 1980's 68cm Nishiki Sebring with 700c aero wheels, 30 speeds, flat bar bicycle.
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 131 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times
in
102 Posts
Veganbikes the Kinekt 2.1 seatpost looks like the real deal for us bigger Clydes. Thanks for the tip.
#24
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575
Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times
in
163 Posts
Seems like the neoprene cover doesn't do much in terms of preventing dust and grit from getting into the workings of the seatpost. Now it feels... crunchy. Not too noticeable with your body weight situated over the seat, but it seems to be getting worse. I am not impressed.
I would recommend the Satori because its built in rubber cover is tight and works extremely well in adverse riding conditions over the long term.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Yolo County, West Sacramento CA
Posts: 517
Bikes: Modified 26 inch frame Schwinn Varsity with 700c wheels and 10 speed cassette hub. Ryan Vanguard recumbent. 67cm 27"x1 1/4" Schwinn Sports Tourer from the 1980's. 1980's 68cm Nishiki Sebring with 700c aero wheels, 30 speeds, flat bar bicycle.
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 131 Post(s)
Liked 141 Times
in
102 Posts
Thought I would make an update on my Suntour seatpost since you've bumped this thread.
Seems like the neoprene cover doesn't do much in terms of preventing dust and grit from getting into the workings of the seatpost. Now it feels... crunchy. Not too noticeable with your body weight situated over the seat, but it seems to be getting worse. I am not impressed.
I would recommend the Satori because its built in rubber cover is tight and works extremely well in adverse riding conditions over the long term.
Seems like the neoprene cover doesn't do much in terms of preventing dust and grit from getting into the workings of the seatpost. Now it feels... crunchy. Not too noticeable with your body weight situated over the seat, but it seems to be getting worse. I am not impressed.
I would recommend the Satori because its built in rubber cover is tight and works extremely well in adverse riding conditions over the long term.